3 link Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 Morning Matey, Regarding the handwheel couldn't you have a go at scatch building it with some scrap etch and brass wire, a bit fiddly but a man of your skills . ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 Morning OzzyO, can you use the existing girders and join another section on as the ends all seem to protrude by the same lenth and then just angle them accordingly, Grasshopper. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 7, 2012 Author Share Posted August 7, 2012 Hello all, after cutting off all the ends of the under table girders I was going to have to re-extend them, as Grasshopper has mentioned. So on Sunday I started cutting these out, for the centre two girders. After soldering all eight of them in place and a bit of cleaning up. I started on the angle brackets, all eight soldered together to make cutting out a bit easer for me. When I started marking them out this was when the fun started (not). The angle looked so wrong compared to the photos. So it was back to the drawing board and start again. So after using Trig. (for about the first time in anger in about twenty years) it turned out that I was about 2mm out in the length (why is it that it's always short not long?). One good thing was at least I had not cut the twenty four angled ones out to my first set of sizes. When I came to cut out the new eight centre under girder extensions I changed how I was going to cut them out. The two U sections are soldered back to back to make an H section. Then one end will be filed down to fit in the old under girders as before. OzzyO. PS. at one time I did think about removing the etched bottom angles and replacing them with some nice milled angle, But I have dropped that on the cost of the angle. But if Steve says do it off it will come. Or I may just do it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 Milled angle is horribly expensive. I always try to get extruded because it's usually about 25% of the price. I can't see how it would be noticed that further in under the deck that the metal is not quite how it should be. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 7, 2012 Author Share Posted August 7, 2012 In 7mm you can. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 But real sections aren't milled, they are extruded. Trust me, I've worked in the mills that produce steel sections here in Scunny........and don't anyone DARE call them girders! (And just to be pedantic, what most people call steel wire is always "rod".) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45157 Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 But real sections aren't milled, they are extruded. Trust me, I've worked in the mills that produce steel sections here in Scunny........and don't anyone DARE call them girders! (And just to be pedantic, what most people call steel wire is always "rod".) Are you saying that Irn Bru is NOT made from Girders ? regards Stewart (brought up in the 50/60s within a few miles of Barrs in Parkhead but never noticed if the "steel" used in the drink was ground up on site or shipped in that way) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 8, 2012 Author Share Posted August 8, 2012 But real sections aren't milled, they are extruded. Trust me, I've worked in the mills that produce steel sections here in Scunny........and don't anyone DARE call them girders! Hello all, so is a girder bridge not made out of girders? The full size beams may be extruded (rolled in a rolling mill so in a way they are milled) but they have quite sharp corners, All the extruded (folded) brass sections that I have seen have quit a large (up to 1/16") bend in the corners that would show up. That's why I'm using milled sections. The extension pieces for the four centre girders beams with the ends filed down to fit in the channel section. The first one in place on the R/H side, you can see that the 2mm does make a lot of difference. One side completed, along with the end plates. These plates should be about 14mm but I've only gone to 10mm due to the shape of the TT pit. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 So an RSJ isn't a girder then? that could be a question or a statement Coming along nicely OzzyO. Grasshopper John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 So an RSJ isn't a girder then? that could be a question or a statement Coming along nicely OzzyO. Grasshopper John. No it is a rolled steel joist. Extrusions are made by pushing the metal through a die. Drawn is pulled through and tends to be softer materials. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 Hi All looks great mate, Use what ever you feel necessary. busy week this week but I am keeping watch. Over and out Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 8, 2012 Author Share Posted August 8, 2012 Will do. All I'm doing is helping you spend your kid's inheritance. OzzyO. PS. off to install a layout tonight, I think it will be a long night. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 I think a Girder is a support which ever way it's fashioned, the supports on Ozzy's TT are Girders by definition of the following: Girder A girder is a support beam used in construction. Girders often have an I-beam cross section for strength, but may also have a box shape, Z shape or other forms. Girder is the term used to denote the main horizontal support of a structure which supports smaller beams. A girder is commonly used many times in the building of bridges, and planes. The Warren type girder combines strength with economy of materials and can therefore be relatively light. Patented in 1848 by its designers James Warren and Willoughby Theobald Monzani, its structure consists of longitudinal members joined only by angled cross-members, forming alternately inverted equilateral triangle-shaped spaces along its length, ensuring that no individual strut, beam, or tie is subject to bending or torsional straining forces, but only to tension or compression. It is an improvement over the Neville truss which uses a spacing configuration of isosceles triangles. Anyway why are we talking about Ozzy's girdles Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 Additional plates have arrived. I will pop them in the post Monday. I don't like the thought of them hanging around in the sorting office over the weekend more chance of them going missing. Plus I've got another busy day tomorrow I won't get chance to get to the post office. Hope everything went OK on the layout . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 14, 2012 Author Share Posted August 14, 2012 Hello all, had a good day out on Sat drinking real ale with a bunch of like minded rail enthusiasts. Anyway back on to the build, the more I looked at the bottom angle with gaps in it the more it rankled me. So off they came, the same thing again not much solder used in the construction. Then it was clean up the tops of the girders. The next parts to go on are the sides of the TT deck. I did it this way as it should help to line up the extension pieces. On the real thing these plates would have run from one side of the TT to the other with the joints supported by the cross girders. I'm waiting for some more brass L angle to complete this part. The twenty four extensions for the under deck girders, these still have to have the ends filed to an angle (I've still to make the jig). All in all I'm pleased how it's all coming together. I've had a question asked about how long it is, the overall length is about 18". OzzyO. PS. first post using the new server a lot better, the only down side is the max size of file that you can attach. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 15, 2012 Author Share Posted August 15, 2012 Hello all, yesterday after I had post my message. I got three packages in the post one had more brass angle in it, one had something special in it (that I've forgotten to take a photo of). The third one had these, the Archer's resin rivets (about five days from ordering them to my house). The sheets don't look that big for the cost, but there's a lot on them and to be fair they do tell you the size of the sheets. More on these to follow. The first of the side beam top plates in place. Yes it's off centre! I have done that for a reason that I will explain later. The second top plate in place and the four end plates cut out, the number are in-case any of them are slightly different lengths. All six of the top plates now in place, I'm just starting to get the top and end plates to look like they have been made out of one sheet of metal, not three pieces on each side. The top lap plates now in place. They don't show up that well in these photos but in real life you can see them very well. As I mentioned before the table is 18" long, but here's a photo with a rule on it to show the size. As I mentioned before the top plates have been off set to the outside. There are two reasons for that , 1) the bridge deck is too narrow for this make of table, so to try and get the look! I have had to bring them out as much as possible and 2) the side plate are approx. 1/16" thick rather than the 10 or 12 thou. that would be to the prototype thickness. So to get all this right it would have been easer (better?) to have started from scratch. But more to the point Steve would have had a TT deck that he could not use, so that's why we went from there with the sizes. OzzyO. PS. the paint is now on order for the bridge, G.W.R. cream for the sides from J.L.T.R.T. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted August 15, 2012 Share Posted August 15, 2012 Looks fan bleeding tastic. I know it's not 100% dimensionally accurate but that's not what this project is about. We (you) are converting what I already had into looking like the flat top turn table and that it certainly is. Super mate! Got your tights and cape? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 16, 2012 Author Share Posted August 16, 2012 Hello all, as I mentioned I received three packet the other day and forgot to photo the contents of one of them. Well this is it, the brick edging for around the TT pit. A closer view of the brick work, this was done by Laser Craft in Devon, I think the cost was about £65, but this was the first off so any more should be a bit cheaper. I hope this photo shows the amount of detail that's been incorporated in to the job. If you want to get in touch with them please drop Steve a PM, or ask on here and I'm sure that Steve will put the contact address up. OzzyO. PS. I'm amazed that this thread has had over a 1000 hits in just over two weeks. Thanks to all that look in. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted August 16, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 16, 2012 OzzyO. PS. I'm amazed that this thread has had over a 1000 hits in just over two weeks. Thanks to all that look in. It's always nice to watch someone else working Ozzy (especially when they're doing an amazing job well beyond your own skill level but dropping in useful snippets which can be picked up and run with .. one day) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 16, 2012 Author Share Posted August 16, 2012 It's always nice to watch someone else working Ozzy (especially when they're doing an amazing job well beyond your own skill level but dropping in useful snippets which can be picked up and run with .. one day) That's what I thought a site like this was for. OzzyO. PS. what you mean is I'm the only one mad enough to try it! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted August 16, 2012 Share Posted August 16, 2012 Just under £50 for the walk way and that included the Art work. No one else will have that cost now. Laser Craft are Highly recommended. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45157 Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 Just under £50 for the walk way and that included the Art work. No one else will have that cost now. Laser Craft are Highly recommended. I can confirm that recommendation. Although I am fortunate enough to be able to do my own drawings, the service I have recieved from LaserCraft Devon has been second to none, indeed highly recommended. Apologies to Ozzy for the slight hijack. regards Stewart Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 17, 2012 Author Share Posted August 17, 2012 Hello all, 45157, no problem to me in giving credit where credit is due. For some reason the time just flew in at the WB yesterday. The first of the L angles fitted to the floor extensions. The second one in place, you can just make out the underside lap plates in this photo. Getting the TT ready for its bath, I have noticed that the copper clad gets dirty very quick. Any tips to help keep it clean? That's most of the big jobs done apart from the carrying wheel girders, that is going to be quite a big job in getting them in line with the rails and getting the ride hight right. I'm undecided about the two inside centre side supports about weather to take them off or to leave them in place I'll decide after I've got the four outside centre supports in place. But I think that they will go. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 Getting the TT ready for its bath, I have noticed that the copper clad gets dirty very quick. Any tips to help keep it clean? Polish it then varnish it, I dunno OzzyO have i got to do all your thinking for ya I know you have a sence of humour OzzyO so you can see the irony in my advice. ATB Grasshopper. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 Ozzyo wear latex glove this will help with the copper clad. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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