3 link Posted September 29, 2012 Share Posted September 29, 2012 Hello Matey, Sorry to hijack your thread but I thought I would show you this close coupled B set that I was on about, although I intend to keep them coupled up. It is just as easy to uncoupled them along with the vacuum/steam pipes. The main problem was sorting out the adjustment when transversing crossovers, but that has been finely tuned now . ATB, Martyn. P.S. And before anyone say's it's a bit shiney, yes it will all be weathered soon, as I like things dirty . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted September 29, 2012 Share Posted September 29, 2012 Shouldn't the buffers be in contact? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted September 29, 2012 Share Posted September 29, 2012 Shouldn't the buffers be in contact? If you want a picture of the buffers together I will do one for you, the only reason I have taken it in the tension position is so you lot can see it better . The pipes run on a sliding guide and pin under one of the coaches. Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 I am very impressed with those rails Martyn ATB mate Grasshopper J. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 Mornin All, Here is a close up of the buffers touching it's a bit of a cruel close up but once it's all weathered it should get rid of all the shiney bits and bring it to life. John if you mean the rails on the turnout, it is just a Peco turnout that is on my test track and the C & L turnouts look much better. End of hijack Ozzyo, back to you . ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted September 30, 2012 Author Share Posted September 30, 2012 Hello Martyn, no probs. with the hijack, but can you screw up the couplings as the turn-buckle looks to be about half way down the screw not at one end as on the loco couplings. As seen in this photo. If the turn-buckle is in the centre you should have a L/H & R/H thread on the screw. The only people that do this AFAIK is Slater's. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 Ozzyo, Life's too short !! . ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbedford Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 Here is a close up of the buffers touching it's a bit of a cruel close up but once it's all weathered it should get rid of all the shiney bits and bring it to life. What 3Link meant was that the buffers should touch when the couplings are tight. These needs soft buffer springs and generous track radii. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 What 3Link meant was that the buffers should touch when the couplings are tight. These needs soft buffer springs and generous track radii. Hi Bill, Ahhh the penny has finally dropped !! well on my layout the passengers are supplied with a neck brace for their journey . Once the coaches are a permanent fixture on the layout I will pull the links tight and slide up the turn-buckle and locktite them in place, all in good time. ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted October 2, 2012 Author Share Posted October 2, 2012 Hello all, I've un-soldered the spokes off there mandrel and I'm not to happy with them. As you can see one sides higher than the other it's not by much maybe 10 thou, but it's enough for me to make two new ones, after I've figured out what I've done wrong. I'm quit happy with the rim though. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 Hello Matey, I don't think your far out and we are talking bl**dy fiddly here, would it be easier to get some straight bar of the correct thickness and cut to length and solder some "spokes" for want of a better word to a brass washer in the middle if you get my drift. Once I win that lottery your troubles will be over as I will get you whatever CNC machine you want. ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted October 2, 2012 Author Share Posted October 2, 2012 I will take you up on that one Martyn. It's not that big a job to put right, all I've got to do is check my sizes a bit better this time. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
R A Watson Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 Are you sure that there is a "run out" and it is not an optical illusion, the spokes do not seem opposite each other and this may cause the illusion. But, I must state I have only one and a half eyes and varifocal specs! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted October 6, 2012 Author Share Posted October 6, 2012 Hello all, as I mentioned some posts back I was not that happy about the spoke for the locking wheels. So I started out on making some new spokes. This set has been drilled for the wheels handle and has been reset in the lathe for parting off. The spokes for the wheels removed from the turning blank. The two at the top are the first ones that I did, you can see that the spokes are out of line in this photo better than in some of the old ones. Jumping on a bit to the finished wheels, still a bit of cleaning up to do. The same as above but with a rule to help show the size of them. The wheels after a quick clean and grit blast, I've still got a bit of work to do on them, like taking off the sharp corners on the spokes and removing some excess solder. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 Very nice OzzyO took a bit of time but worth the effort. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 Nice work OzzyO, they do look better but so did the first ones, you are a perfectionist me thinks ATB Grasshopper J. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted October 8, 2012 Author Share Posted October 8, 2012 Hello all, thanks for the nice words about the hand wheels, I do think that they do look better than my first efforts on them. This is a bit O/T for the build on the T/T but still to do with T/Ts. In these two photos you can see extension rails in use. To start with, you reverse the loco on tender first OK. You now want to come off the T/T tender first, having turned the loco, how do you do that as the rails don't look to be hinged. So do you reverse the loco on tender first, turn the loco and drive off at the other end and then use a run round loop to get back to your starting point. IF there is no run round loop how would they then work? OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
R A Watson Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 There would normally be a run off road on the opposite side in line with the approach road so just drive the loco over the table, then put the extensions in place then reverse back on to them. If you look closely there are what seems to be locating lugs on the extensions (beow the centre wheel and the brake hanger for the same wheel) which will plug into the deck and retain the extensions whilst the tender is moving. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted October 8, 2012 Author Share Posted October 8, 2012 There would normally be a run off road on the opposite side in line with the approach road so just drive the loco over the table, then put the extensions in place then reverse back on to them. If you look closely there are what seems to be locating lugs on the extensions (beow the centre wheel and the brake hanger for the same wheel) which will plug into the deck and retain the extensions whilst the tender is moving. I can see what your saying but what would the weight of the extension beams be? 10 cwt.? So how would two men move them? As there's no hand holds to help them lift them and they are "smooth sided". Try lifting about a foot of rail and you may see what I'm saying. About 75 Lb (about 34 Kg). Also the railway at that time didn't like any thing not to be fastened down. More so when a loco had to run on it. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted October 8, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 8, 2012 I've not seen any extension pieces that long before. There were - if my memory is working right - some quite short ones at Whitchurch (Salop) which I saw being used about 50 years ago but I can't remember if they were portable or not (somehow I had the impression they were but I don't really know why. Apparently Churston turntable on the Paington -Kingswear line has extension pieces so someone on here might know about it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mswjr Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 Hi Ozzyo My guess is that the extention rails are hinged, ( that bit under the centre wheel looks like a large hinge)I reckon they would hinge outward to the outside and when upright are pinned. Garry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 The original turntable at Minehead had extension bars too. I can find a couple of photo's but no explainations in the books I have. Are there any WSR folks on here who could help perhaps? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
R A Watson Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 Hi Ozzyo My guess is that the extention rails are hinged, ( that bit under the centre wheel looks like a large hinge)I reckon they would hinge outward to the outside and when upright are pinned. Garry Looking deeper at the second picture this is probably the answer, the curved/flared end woud form a reasonable handle. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted October 9, 2012 Author Share Posted October 9, 2012 The original turntable at Minehead had extension bars too. I can find a couple of photo's but no explainations in the books I have. Are there any WSR folks on here who could help perhaps? Looking deeper at the second picture this is probably the answer, the curved/flared end woud form a reasonable handle. Hello all, thanks for all the replies. This is the Minehead TT. so for a place like this you would have expected to see a few more photos of the extensions in use. Logic would say that the extensions would be hinged, I had been looking at the two three bolt brackets as been fixed. Looking at the photos again they could be hinges (probable are). Looking at the curved ends these look to have holes in them so a lever could be inserted into them to give more leverage. All we need now is a photo to show them hinged out of the way. I live in hope. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Why would the extension pieces need to be removed? Yes, you would have to turn the turntable twice as far as otherwise because it would be single ended. I may have overlooked something else... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.