Jump to content
 

Recommended Posts

Hi Scott,

 

Guess what - delays with the planning permission - I have got the Mother in Law (of the Scalescenes building fame) on my side, although that still may not be enough to swing it.

 

This is a diagram of what's currently planned/there. I've worked out I can extend the return board (on the left) by a further 3' as I won't need the full 4' for the helix (in theory) as it will start to go underneath.

 

post-10336-0-09743900-1339621977.png

 

Regarding the helix and fiddle yard/shelf underneath, I'm thinking that it would be good to have as much space as possible, so a minimum of 6" clearance, but ideally 1' and with a 3" drop per circuit of the helix that'll be 2 or 4 turns....

 

Current dilemma is regarding the corner and one of two options:

 

A) do a tunnel/ something for the tracks to go into with a tightish curve then magically appear at the other side. Plus would be space saved, but might look a bit artificial.

 

B) big sweeping curves (i.e. start 4' to 5' from the end, sweep across then back to the outside). Plus is more realistic, but minus is space used.

 

Again trying hard not to cram too much in.

 

Without the helix at the far end it wouldn't be much fun - as I'd like to have the two lines going round and round, or rather end to end, then round the helix, along underneath, back up the other helix and back to the start. In addition to that there would be the shunting yard / container depot thing.

 

Oh and I've spent most of this week working up in Leicester, i.e. 150 miles away, and back up there tomorrow.

 

Perhaps I should just leave the keys with Ian and wait for the helixes to appear - since it was all his idea in the first place.

 

Cheers - off to bed for an early start.

 

Phil

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Planning, it always causes the hold ups.

I think I'll wait until you have a track plan before I comment too much, but regarding the corner I would go for option B if it were me. If you put a wedge in the corner it could give you a bit more room for other track/buildings etc too, so th ecurves wont appear to take up all the room.

post-6849-0-66833900-1339625388.jpg

 

 

I'm back to work tomorrow night which I think is a good thing as my layout is getting smaller and smaller.

 

 

Sweet dreams! :lazy: ooo{ track plans, baseboards etc etc }

Edited by pitbull1845
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Sweet dreams - more like nightmares of being chased round and round a helix then in and out of tunnels.....

 

I'd thought of adding the little triangle at the corner too, but it's a slippery slope to keep adding more - repeat after me "less is more", "less is more"...

 

Time for more track plan design/changes as I drive to Leicester!

 

Later

 

Phil

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Current dilemma is regarding the corner and one of two options:

 

A) do a tunnel/ something for the tracks to go into with a tightish curve then magically appear at the other side. Plus would be space saved, but might look a bit artificial.

 

I'd use the setrack curves through the tunnel idea, but create a scenic break across the corner so the trains effectively leave one 'scene' and reappear into another. To have the corner open, the radius of the curve would need to be so big to look okay that you'd have no room to do anything else.

 

Oh and I'd be happy to help with the helix, it could be interesting!

Edited by Temeraire
Link to post
Share on other sites

Evening all

 

Quick update on progress - I decided on pretty much a scorched earth policy, and I think I might even remove the final bits of walling. I did start doing some virtual planning but got bored and got down to playing with the track.

 

This is the view along the long side:

 

post-10336-0-36905200-1339882134_thumb.jpg

 

Left to right:

 

Two lines coming in from somewhere else - may me chopped down to one (existing track).

Main up and down lines

Reception line going into the distance, with head shunt coming towards the camera

Two unloading lines - both are long enough to take four pairs of container wagons (6' 6")..

 

There are a variety of other sidings coming towards the camera, which may or may not remain (existing track).

 

post-10336-0-23067200-1339882124_thumb.jpg

 

post-10336-0-21254700-1339882115_thumb.jpg

 

To make full potential, I've moved the 6' x 2' board away slightly. Ideally I'd like it to be a river crossed by bridges, however the crane wouldn't really be on the bridge - would it?

 

post-10336-0-85005900-1339882106_thumb.jpg

 

As for the helix - no progress yet, as need to extend the return board by another 3' first.

 

It may appear a bit drastic, but I'm actually enjoying myself again.

 

Phil

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Phil,

 

I've been following the thread for a while, thought it was time I posted to say nice work so far :D

 

If you are interested, I posted some videos of our first helix in our thread:

 

http://www.rmweb.co....067#entry713067

 

Thanks and your helix looks great - I like the use of the threaded rod.

 

Phil

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Phil,

You are certainly cracking on with this, it's looking good too. Could I suggest longer radius points in some areas, as it looks like you have room.

 

The bridge idea would be ok if it was more of a drain, ie the land could drop away and you could have a couple of concrete pipes leading into a small stream. If you get what I mean.

 

Cheers Peter.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Phil,

You are certainly cracking on with this, it's looking good too. Could I suggest longer radius points in some areas, as it looks like you have room.

 

The bridge idea would be ok if it was more of a drain, ie the land could drop away and you could have a couple of concrete pipes leading into a small stream. If you get what I mean.

 

Cheers Peter.

 

Hi Peter,

 

Thanks and you are right about the points. I'm going to buy new track and points as previously was using recycled stuff and used to drive me mad with constant derailments.

 

Good idea about the concrete pipes, a bit like I tried with Beresford North - whatever happened to that?

 

I think there are probably too much fussy old track in the foreground and that the two lines in from the junction will become one...

 

Phil

Link to post
Share on other sites

Tonight I've added the 3' extension to the return board (I must think of some better names), and done some planning, with track as usual for what will become the station area.

 

A bit of advice on the points please - I'm looking at the Peco Streamline Code 100 - should I be using the small, medium or large points?

 

(it depends what you want I hear you say...)

 

Phil

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Morning Phil

 

Like Graham mine are all Large on the mainlines and mainly mediums in the depot area with a lot of small radius ones in the fiddle yard to save space and make the roads as long as possible.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys for all the points info, now onto track....

 

I see the Peco do both wooden and concrete sleepers - any thoughts/suggestions.

 

Since the points are wooden sleepered, might it look strange having the concrete ones for the main track?

 

And yes I know, it's looking more and more like Warren Lane, so might have to do some re-jigging.

 

Phil

Link to post
Share on other sites

Concrete sleepers are mainly only use for the main line even with wooden ones for point work. Some yards that have been relayed within the last 10/15 years have had concrete reused from the mainline eg forders sidings between bletchley and bedford and most of wembley yard.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info Pilkko.

 

I've just had a trip out and purchased the wood/timber for the helix - decided to go for 9mm MDF in 6' x 2' sheets, cutting a half circle out will leave me just over 2' on each board, i.e. 12' in total, which I can use for the under-board fiddle yard (or at least the first bit of it).

 

I'm going to use threaded rod as kanonfodda did above, but first need to do a bit more planning of how it's going to work exactly - yes a first for me I know - normally I just jump straight in there and build it. Once I work out how much rod I need - Screwfix do it in 300mm or 500mm lengths which should be about right - I'm just not sure how to attach it all together. I'll keep you updated.

 

Phil

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll get some pics of the bottom of the helix, showing how the rod is attached to the wodden supports at the base etc, might be useful reference for you :)

 

Great - I forgot I knew someone who had the answer.

 

I was going through permutations of building a semi-table then adding 'feet' to the bottom of the rods, to other various Heath-Robinson'ish solutions.

 

Phil

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been out at lunchtime and purchased 6m of M8 threaded rod, 200 nuts and 130 25mm washers - I hope my calculations were right!

 

Unfortunately I've been booked in to do other things this weekend, so may not be able to make a start, and another thing - I can't seem to find my electric jigsaw anywhere, and don't fancy cutting it all by hand...

 

Progress (if any) will of course be posted.

 

Phil

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...