RMweb Premium PaulCheffus Posted February 14, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 14, 2011 Hi A question (possibly one of many) for anyone who has built the TPM 5WES set. Did you overcoat the tranfers to protect them after they had been applied to the coach sides and if so what did you use? Cheers Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Steven B Posted February 14, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 14, 2011 I sprayed mine with an aerosol satin varnish (I can't remember which brand) and half wish I hadn't. Whilst the transfers are nicely sealed and look OK the windows ended up looking frosted: It's not great to look at close up but wizzing past on a layout it's acceptable. I really must get round to fitting the 3rd rail collector shoes at some point... Happy modelling. Steven B. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Revolution Ben Posted February 14, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 14, 2011 Hi Paul, I used Johnson's Klear on my 5-wes, and did not suffer fogging. I then dusted on a very thin coat of pale grey avoiding the windows. This toned down the shine and gave a more realistic slightly "faded" appearance. Apologies for the relatively poor quality of the photo - was taken on old camera and scanned in. Incidentally, I have found previously that Klear will "reverse" the fogging of glazing caused by Cyano. I don't know if it would "defrost" the varnished windows - maybe worth a try on a discreet area? cheers Ben A. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PaulCheffus Posted February 14, 2011 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 14, 2011 I sprayed mine with an aerosol satin varnish (I can't remember which brand) and half wish I hadn't. Whilst the transfers are nicely sealed and look OK the windows ended up looking frosted: I used Johnson's Klear on my 5-wes, and did not suffer fogging. I then dusted on a very thin coat of pale grey avoiding the windows. This toned down the shine and gave a more realistic slightly "faded" appearance. Hi Thank you both. The fogging of the windows is what I would like to avoid. I had considered Klear but was worried that the finish would be too glossy. Some experimentation is required I think. Out of interest what did you use as the power? I am in the process of using one of Bernards MUMU kits to power mine. Cheers Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karhedron Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Incidentally, I have found previously that Klear will "reverse" the fogging of glazing caused by Cyano. I don't know if it would "defrost" the varnished windows - maybe worth a try on a discreet area? I have also used Klear to reverse fogging caused by matt varnish on glazing with some success. Matt varnish causes fogging because of the fine particles it contains to prevent the shine. These make it slightly opaque but also cause surface fogging by reducing the smoothness of the surface. Klear (or any other gloss) will improve matters by making the surface smooth and shiny again although it will not eliminate the opaqueness caused by the suspended particles. With Cyano the fogging is purely a surface effect and so Klear is a very effective remedy. Thank you both. The fogging of the windows is what I would like to avoid. I had considered Klear but was worried that the finish would be too glossy. Some experimentation is required I think. With a flush-glazed model like the 442 you either need a way to mask the windows when applying the matt varnish or the rest of the bodywork when applying the klear. You might be able to paint the windows with klear manually if you have a steady hand. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Revolution Ben Posted February 14, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 14, 2011 ...I had considered Klear but was worried that the finish would be too glossy. Some experimentation is required I think. Out of interest what did you use as the power? I am in the process of using one of Bernards MUMU kits to power mine. Cheers Paul Hi Paul, Yes, when first done it was too glossy, but a fine weathering coat took the shine off the roof and the tumblehome where it looked worse. The high shine on the windows, and on the bodyside areas between the windows, is OK since these do often appear shiny on the prototype as they are the areas most efficiently washed by carriage washing plants. I motorised the kit some years ago with one of the TPM early motorising units - works fine (or at least, it did last time I ran the model a couple of years ago!) cheers Ben A. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Steven B Posted February 15, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 15, 2011 I'll have to spray some clear plastic with my aerosol and see if a coat of Klear will fix the misty windows on my 5-WES. I used one of the newer Farish class 158 chassis to power my unit - fitted in the center vehicle. Happy modelling. Steven B. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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