Eastwood Town - A tribute to Gordon's modelling.

[Fordy_SVMRC]

Just spent the last two evenings reading entire topic, Glad your back to near full health and can keep these inspirational pics coming.

[Alan Kettlewell]

Have just read through all 18 pages of this topic! Fantastic layout, great skills and the standard of trackwork is awesome. It leaves me with a mixture of feelings from inspired through to depressed!

 

Certainly will follow your work with great interest.

 

Regards

Alan

[gordon s]

It's that time of the month again and so far, so good. My motivation has held up and we move one step nearer to actually seeing something run around a full circuit. They say a picture is worth a 1000 words, so hopefully these pics will go some way to explain my build methods.

 

For those of you just joining this saga, welcome. For those who have followed this story for some time, stick with it, this just could be the one that might continue for a while yet.

 

The last few weeks has seen a massive tidy up. I know it is easier to work in a clear area. I know it is easier to find stuff easily when it is put back in its place. I know it gives an impression this person might just know what they are doing. All of these I wish to achieve, so why the hell don't I do it every day....

 

OK, what's new?

 

 

 

 

There are two key elements to the build of Eastwood. I like to see underneath a layout and that area should be clear to allow easy access. I wanted to move away from the conventional 2" x 1" frame, so developed the methods you will see in this thread. I use the word 'developed' for a reason. Most things in the modelling world are based around someone else's ideas, so what you see are minor tweaks to baseboard construction techniques that I have read over the years.

 

The main frame is a beam structure as per Barry Norman with the track bed a fusion of 12mm ply and 6mm MDF. I wanted a board that was stable and did not warp or twist. So far so good....

 

Here are the two main elements in situ, a subframe to support all the modules irrespective of their level on the plan and one of the track bed modules, each of which I will cover as this thread develops.

 

 

These pics show the build of the lowest level on the layout, but as always I want to check things and see parts of the build programme that may be a few weeks away in the next level up. These Templot prints show where the high level bridge across the main lines to Eastwood shed will sit. It's not part of the main terminus, but situated in it's own area, similar to that of one of my childhood haunts, Kings Cross.

 

 

Over on the right of the layout is the reverse loop/common access point and the other end of the shed loop can just be see in the bottom right.

 

 

So back to the build. This pic shows the twin loops on the left, followed by the pair that gently climb away to level 2, via a 1:100 gradient.

 

 

 

The new board was laid out as a flat section with the incline carefully cut out and edged with 6mm MDF as used in the rest of the layout.

 

 

This final pic shows how open this form of construction really is and how easy the access to the circuit wiring is made by these methods. Each board is bolted to the next using M8 screws and T nuts.

 

This also shows the 'U' channel construction with the incline section with its own 6mm side rails within the main board assembly. The reverse loop is activated using a DCC Specialities solid state reverse module which I have no hesitation in recommending 100%. This is the pc board sat between the 6mm incline rails.

 

[darren01]

HI

Saw your layout in Model Rail a while back and even through it is no where finished it still looked amazing , i just love the way you have the lines running in and out .

I too have moved over to making my own track and have found it to be very enjoyable to do, the double slip did give a hard time .

Keep up the good work !.

Darren

[7APT7]

Hi

 

Excellemt Progress, since I last looked at this post, Got my house up for sale... and have plans for a loft access like yours... Does anyone wamt an house in North Wales... Haha..

 

Great work and a lot of time going into this i can see...

Keep the photos updated...

 

Regards

Jamie

[Kenton]

The last few weeks has seen a massive tidy up. I know it is easier to work in a clear area. I know it is easier to find stuff easily when it is put back in its place.

Now why does that sound like the self-justification of a nagged man

It still amazes me to see the baseboards looking just like professionally fitted furniture. Were the drawer units built to fit in with the track or the track to fit the furniture.

[Pete Harvey]

And all this without touching the banister all on a separate frame well done Gordon very very nice indeed.

 

Keep the pictures coming.

 

Pete

[gordon s]

Thanks guys. Storage is the bane of my life, so from the outset I wanted to have a place for everything, but eventually hidden from view. I had a rummage round various places and managed to salvage a few bits and bobs from family and then just cut things down to be a snug fit under the board framing. Once the layout is almost presentable, I will ask my dear lady to knock up some curtaining material to fit between the boards and the floor to hide all the cupboards, drawers and boxes.

 

I really am a messy worker and can never find anything. Invariably I spend more time looking for the right tools to do a job than it takes on the job itself. Of course the other thing is that I buy some replacement bits because I couldn't find something on the day, only for it to emerge a week later....

 

Here's a mess I made earlier..

 

[Kenton]

Here's a mess I made earlier..

Ha! I can't see anything wrong with that - other than all those tidy unopened boxes - which looks like you have just moved house, and the hoover readily at hand as you have to clean up all the sawdust rather than trample it through the rest of the house.

[ian]

Here's a mess I made earlier..

 

You sir are an amateur. I can still see clear sections of floor and some flat surfaces that are uncluttered

[trisonic]

Great Stuff G!

 

Have you thought of getting a Tool Belt to keep the most used items to hand?

 

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_12605?keyword=Tool+Belts&vName=

 

Best, Pete.

[BrushVeteran]

Excellent workmanship Gordon. I can see you seek perfection and you certainly have been rewarded. I hope you enjoy operating it as much as you seem to have enjoyed building it. Am quite envious of your trackwork and my efforts in this region don't go beyond Peco Code 100, so well done and don't finish it too soon!

[PhilH]

Well Gordon it looks like it might be the one this time!!

 

Looks like you need to remove a bit of that banister though......

[ColinW]

its going to be great to watch the progression you make Gordon, you've certainly made a good start.

 

Colin

[Robert McGee]

Would it be possible to post some pictures of each module. Also, would you be able to take a close up picture of one of joins?

 

Cheers, Robert.

[gordon s]

Hi Robert, when you ask to see each of the modules, which aspect are you interested in? I can certainly show you the construction of the one/two modules I have under way at the moment. The others are all in position and bolted together. If you go back several pages in this topic, you will see pictures of the construction techniques used to produce the octagonal reverse loop and the main module over the stairs.

 

This really is a test bed for me and methods are evolving most days. One thing I am happy with and that's the beam construction. Each one of my boards is flat and true, unlike the wavy horrors I produced in RMWeb 1.

 

Each module has a 12mm ply end plate and when two modules are brought together, I use M8 bolts and T nuts to lock them together. Here's a pic showing what I mean.

 

[Robert McGee]

That'as fine Gordon. I was just wishing to know how you joined the modules together. When I asked about seeing the modules, I meant it in a way that I can see the joins in it, so that I can see how large each section is, and the angles that you produce them in if you see what I mean. And would you be able to show me the construction of them at the moment.

 

Yet another question, when you lay track, do you lay it when the boards are in situ or as modules?

 

Cheers, Robert.

[gordon s]

That's fine Robert. I have two modules underway at the moment and I'll try to talk you through the construction process. I've had several failures in the past and you will see it has become a bit of a standing joke with the 'Early Risers'....

 

This is not a problem for me as I will always strive to make things right. Some days things go well, others not so. On days like that, I'll walk away and do something else.

 

You will see that I am a devoted fan of Templot. This software has enabled me to produce a full size prototype on paper and see what the problems are before a single piece of wood has been cut. I am using 12mm ply as a standard material and built each module to a drawing produced by Templot. I used to hire a van and buy 8' x 4' sheets of ply, but suddenly woke up to the fact that few of my modules are over 4' in length and if push comes to shove, I can always join then together. I tend now to buy two or three sheets at a time and have them cut to the metric equivalent of 4' x 2' and put them in the back of my esate car. So here's some pics showing a bit more detail.

 

This is what I am working to. A set of Templot templates which show the track position and trackbed detail. I always check for radii, lower than 36". Templot not only shows the track but develops the trackbed as well.

 

 

Here's the same module without the drawing on the ply sheet.

 

 

Templot provides the trackbed outline, so it is easy to cut out and remove the centre pair of tracks. I then treated the centre section as a mini module and just followed a similar process. 12mm ply base and 6mm thick MDF as a stiffener to stop the ply from warping or twisting.

 

 

 

Those with eagle eyes, would probably have noticed some 45mm x 45mm blocks have appeared. Unfortunately I dropped one of the modules and the MDF sides broke away from the ply. Normally it would all hold firm, but the ply decided to delaminate and the sides broke away. Rather than start this one again, I used the 45 x 45 blocks to strengthen the join. It actually turned out better than expected, so I'm going to experiment on the next module and you will see that in a minute.

 

The sides are 100mm deep to protect Tortoise motors and give some real strength to the beam.

 

 

It is then just a matter of reinserting the centre section and setting the gradient using small packing pieces.

 

 

Here's the start of the next board round the loop. I cut boards to the most convenient shape rather than a plain rectangle. This is no harder to do and the 12mm ply end cheeks just bolt together as shown before.

 

 

 

You can see how the 45mm x 45mm blocks come into play. These will strengthen the module considerably. With regard to your question about tracklaying. Generally I will try to build the module and then lay the track and wire it before adding it to the existing modules. I tend to leave an overhang of track off one end of each module which can then be used to join to the adjacent one. It's certainly much easier standing or sitting at a bench to do the wiring. I've had my share of burns from solder droplets whilst laying on my back under a board trying to solder droppers etc.

 

I hope that all helps. Anything else, please ask and I'll do what I can to assist.

[Robert McGee]

Thanks a bunch. I'll probably use this method but adapt it to my own needs.

 

Another question, What technique would you use to do the curve, I'm not meaning the flat piece that the track will sit on, but the vertical piece you said 10mm height.

 

Cheers, Robert.

[gordon s]

I'll assume the 10mm is a typo as the sides are 100mm deep. It's easy to do. All you need are loads of clamps and a decent wood glue. Although these are 100mm deep, the principle is just the same.

 

Scroll back to post 29 on page two and you can see a similar application with a safety rail/stiffener.

[Anglian]

This remains one of my favourite threads of all – it's great to see you enjoying yourself and treating us to a view of what I think is shaping up to be a fabulous layout. I can only imagine how much pleasure it will give when the track work is completed. I'm still a bit awe struck at just how smart I think the overall layout concept is.

[gordon s]

Still gently bubbling along and at last, I can start to see the shape of the lower level. Rather than make simple square frames to support the girder framed track modules, I decided to cut them to follow the track layout. This has improved the access no end as each corner of the room now has a clear space into which I can stand albeit with limited headroom. Being able to reach the deep corners that the track layout generated is a massive plus and has certainly eased assembly.

 

The 1:100 gradient is starting to take shape although I will be forced to use 2mm mdf as a track bed at the point of crossing. This is no problem as I can strengthen the mdf using side girders on the top surface. This particular crossing is in a hidden section so won't be seen directly. Dropping from 12mm ply to 2mm mdf has saved 10mm or 1m of run and meant I could maintain the 1:100 gradient with a slightly shorter run.

 

The frames are 12mm ply with 110mm x 18mm softwood blocks as separators. I have made these 90mm deep purely from a strength standpoint and the legs are cut from 45mm square softwood with adjustable feet.

 

Here's a few new pics just to keep you up to date. Still a long, long way to go, but I'm still hoping to see a train run a complete circuit in the next couple of months.

 

 

 

 

 

[ian]

Those baseboards are a work of art. It will be a shame to hide them...

[trisonic]

Gordon, Do you treat the MDf in any way or do you have some sort of de-humidifier or A/C up there to control moisture in the air?

 

Best, Pete.

[gordon s]

Hi Pete, I haven't treated the mdf at all. I am aware that mdf has a reputation for picking up moisture and of course in time I may be proved wrong, but this room is centrally heated, double glazed and fully insulated/ventilated. In all the years I have been playing at building a layout I have had no problem at all with mdf in this particular location. I'd be much more concerned if it were a detached building or a low cost loft conversion, but this was done professionally and had to meet all the building regs at that time. I would guess it was done around '98.

 

Since I built the first couple of modules, I have changed the design slightly and have used 45 x 45 blocks to provide a firm anchor point, rather than just using compression and the 6mm edge. Here's the later mods.