gordon s Posted September 16, 2012 Author Share Posted September 16, 2012 That makes sense Ray, but I guess the overall dimension of 1200 x 600 is dictating that. If you take the cross members at 600 and allow 15mm each end for the end plates, the centres would be 190mm. Transfer that back to the longer frames and that would equate to 6 x 190 plus 2 x 15mm = 1170mm. Or in reverse the shorter frames would need to be 3 x 195 plus 2 x 15mm = 615mm to match the ideal 195mm centres of the longer frame. They appear to be asymmetric to suit a 1200 x 600 grid. I'm sure there are specific engineering reasons behind that decision. Funny old business this modelling as it was the last thing I was expecting to talk about today.... Oh well, onward and upward. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow Posted September 16, 2012 Share Posted September 16, 2012 (edited) Did you see that they now do curved boards. 45degree sections. Extract from there website :- "The '900r' has an inner radius of 900mm (3 ft) and an outer radius of 1500mm (5 ft) Measures 1142mm (45 inches) at it's longest part" Plus a smaller radius too. Edited September 16, 2012 by Shadow 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon s Posted September 16, 2012 Author Share Posted September 16, 2012 I did see those Shadow, but my curves are larger radii and incorporate several transitions so they don't lend themselves to constant radius boards as described. Thanks for flagging them up though as others may not be aware of them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted September 16, 2012 Share Posted September 16, 2012 By gum you like curved points and looka the length of them.... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post gordon s Posted September 18, 2012 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 18, 2012 Managed to get the corner board together and a trackbed cut to size, so spent most of the day making more turnouts to serve the exit end of the storage yard. I had made a few whilst waiting for the boards to be delivered but knocked out another two today. It seemed a bit of a slog to be honest. Eight down and another five to go. Once the motors and wiring is done, the yard will be complete and then it's off around the room with the main line continuous loop. You were right about the curved turnouts Larry. To get a 3' inner curve, I've had to go to D12 turnouts which are about 15" long. Not really an issue, just a bit longer to produce with the increased number of sleepers and soldering. I think a fish and chip supper and a couple of beers is called for..... 20 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted September 18, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 18, 2012 Gordon, re. the photo in post 1112... There is more trackwork in that "curved bit" than most people have in a complete layout! Looks great though! Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tender Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 (edited) Once the motors and wiring is done, the yard will be complete and then it's off around the room with the main line continuous loop. Beware of that continuos loop, you could find production grinds to a halt as you sit there watching the trains go by! Edited September 18, 2012 by tender 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon s Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 Just a small tip, I wanted to use the accuracy of the Templot plans to ensure the track was laid perfectly in alignment. I asked around at the time and toyed with loads of ideas to try and transfer the plan to the board proper, but none seemed particularly simple to do. Eventually the penny dropped and this works and is easy to do. I cover the board with plain cork tiles and then stick the paper plan to the board using clear tape around the edges. The pointwork is the critical area, so I just cut around the paper plan of each turnout, drill a clearance hole for the under board mounted Tortoise, spread on adhesive leaving the tie bar area clear and then use the tails of the turnout to align with the adjoining track still showing on the plan. Once all the pointwork is in place, then I just repeat the process with the plain track, just cutting away the paper pattern for each piece of track in turn. I have already stuck down the right hand turnouts hence the brown cork underlay showing through. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold martin_wynne Posted September 18, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 18, 2012 Just a small tip, I wanted to use the accuracy of the Templot plans to ensure the track was laid perfectly in alignment. I asked around at the time and toyed with loads of ideas to try and transfer the plan to the board proper, but none seemed particularly simple to do. Hi Gordon, Just a reminder that I answered your questions here with what I still consider the best method -- snipped off veneer pins: http://85a.co.uk/for...=286&forum_id=1 1. Print 2 sets of the templates. Assemble one set into a full track diagram. Use the other set on the bench for trackbuilding. 2. Build the various track items and units. 3. Using masking tape, tape the track diagram over the cork or balsa roadbed. Cut large holes in the diagram between the tracks so that you can tape through the holes. Now you need a supply of 1" veneer pins (like panel pins, but thinner). 4. Align the assembled track items loose on top of track diagram. 5. Insert veneer pins at a few strategic positions in the corners between the rails and timbers, so that the track is fully located all ways without any play. Keep the pins as vertical as possible, tapping them in about half way. 6. Snip the heads off the pins with strong end nippers (wear eye protection). (Catch the heads, if you don't want to find them later attached to motor magnets and jamming mechanisms.) 7. Carefully prise up the track items from between the pins. Without heads on the pins you can do this without disturbing the pins. 8. Cut away and remove the relevant parts of the track diagram. 9. Apply latex adhesive or contact adhesive to roadbed. 10. Align and drop the track item back over the pins. Firm down with an implement (to avoid catching your fingers on the sharp tops of the pins.) 11. Apply ballast now if you wish (quick) or later after the track is tested and running (better). 12. When the glue is set, pull out the pins. regards, Martin. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold martin_wynne Posted September 18, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 18, 2012 (edited) p.s. Just to clarify why the snipped-off pins method is so much better. All the precision work is done dry, without any glue in sight. You can use all your rulers, calipers, tools and gauges to get the tracks accurately aligned without getting the track or the tools messy, and you can do as large an area of trackwork as you wish in one go. Then you clear all that away before applying the glue, after which you can simply drop the trackwork into the glue without needing to check or align anything. edit: Any DIY place, or Amazon: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Nails-screws-Veneer-pins-25mm/dp/B004WCZDBI Edited September 18, 2012 by martin_wynne 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnT Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 Hi Gordon It is great to see that you are motivated again even if it is another 'start again'. Sorry if these points are a bit late (or even just plain wrong!) but I have only just caught up with all the changes going on at ET. I was wondering how you intend to operate freights in your storage sidings. How do you intend to solve the issue of changing the brake van to the other end of the train between arrival and departure. I had to consider this problem when I built my (really) hidden dead end storage sidings in the garage next to my railway room. As they are truly hidden and boxed in to keep the dust off, operation is by remote cameras so I did not have the option of "the hand of God". Will you be swapping by hand or do you intend to do it with a pilot engine? If the latter, you will need to consider how. I won't waffle on any further as I don't want to waste your time if you have already considered this. John 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
devondynosoar118 Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 Amazing progress again, thank you for sharing it! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon s Posted September 21, 2012 Author Share Posted September 21, 2012 Well the easy answer John, is I hadn't thought about it, so thanks for asking the question. Probably 'hand of God' if I'm honest, as access to the storage yard is very easy. I could put brake vans on both ends, but that may upset one or two... ...but you have started me thinking about a brake van spur. The turntable is large enough to take a tank or 08 plus a brake van, so they could be stored on a couple of short roads off the turntable. Freight is something I shall give a lot more thought to once I get the continuous loops running. There is plenty of space, diametrically across from the shed at the terminus, with the furthest most road being used a headshunt. I may also add two or three carriage sidings at the back as they will easily sit over the top of the lower level loops. I'm pleased to be still making progress although once again everything takes so long. Not a major issue providing you focus on the task in hand and not think about the hours that will be needed to even get the first train running. The last three days have been spent building turnouts and they are all now finished. Spent the morning simply putting the motors in position and cutting away the BB's where needed. This last section of the storage loops will probably take another week to get it wired and functional, so I'll just keep plodding away. The thing to do is take breaks, even for a few days, if it becomes a slog. In the past I've not done that so motivation just disappeared once I'd gone too far and it became a job not a hobby. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixoh8sixoh Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 Well the easy answer John, is I hadn't thought about it, so thanks for asking the question. Probably 'hand of God' if I'm honest, as access to the storage yard is very easy. Shurely "Hand of Gord"? 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnT Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 Hi Gordon At the risk of digging a deeper hole! Brake van spurs off the turntable sounds like a good idea. That solves the problem of adding a brake van to the end of the departing Train but you still need a method of getting the brake van from the other end of the train to the spur (hand of Gord, very droll Mike!). And don't forget to provide somewhere to store the pilot. And also remember that different types of train need different types of brake van: e.g a milk train will use a passenger vehicle like a GUV or even a BG. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon s Posted September 22, 2012 Author Share Posted September 22, 2012 Had a good couple of days, despite having to fend for myself as my good lady has taken herself off for a week on a dog training holiday. Having lived on whatever I can find in the cupboard/fridge/freezer for the last couple of days, pub lunches may become the norm in a day or two.... Finished off the pointwork and set to laying more track. Having gobbled up the best part of another three boxes of SMP, I began to realise there is around 250' of storage on these boards and right now, not a wagon or coach to be seen. Perhaps I should order some... Despite appearances there is still much to be done with all the underboard wiring to be completed and another temporary switch panel put in place for the Tortoise motors. I'm hoping this will be completed in the next week, but right now I'm going to take a break. Full day of sport on the TV tomorrow, so a day away from ET will be just the ticket. 17 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted September 22, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 22, 2012 Yikes! Is that a fiddle-yard or no? Makes my effort (with about 70 feet of storage) seem positively puny!! Anyway Gordon, if that's the FY for your shunting layout, how big's the one for your roundy-roundy!!? Lol. I'm pleased to be still making progress although once again everything takes so long. Not a major issue providing you focus on the task in hand and not think about the hours that will be needed to even get the first train running. The last three days have been spent building turnouts and they are all now finished. Spent the morning simply putting the motors in position and cutting away the BB's where needed. This last section of the storage loops will probably take another week to get it wired and functional, so I'll just keep plodding away. The thing to do is take breaks, even for a few days, if it becomes a slog. In the past I've not done that so motivation just disappeared once I'd gone too far and it became a job not a hobby. I totally agree. If any of us thought of the hundreds of hours ahead of us we'd probably "give up and smoke a pipe". Great work Gordon. And, believe it or not, when I do get round to the next layout, I think I will have a go at some turnout construction. Keep nagging me! Cheers, Jeff 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon s Posted September 27, 2012 Author Share Posted September 27, 2012 (edited) Best part of another week has gone and ET yard is slowly taking shape. Once again one relatively small board seems to be taking forever, but with 12 turnouts and Tortoise motors to build and install, it was never going to be a five minute job. Weirdest hour of them all was apparently losing a turnout. I would have put money on the fact that I had built them all, but when I came to install them one was missing. Spent an hour turning the place upside down looking for it, but eventually had to concede defeat and build another one. So far the missing 15" long piece of trackwork is still missing, even though I was convinced just as soon as the new one was finished the original would turn up. So they are all in place and with two wires to every piece of track, this 4 x 2 board has over 300 wires to make the little trains run. Staggering to think of those numbers, particularly when I recall my first train set, a figure of eight plus a couple of sidings from Trix Twin had just a couple of wires which allowed a tiny 0-4-0T to thunder round on it's 16vAC supply. That's progress for you.... Another two or three working days should see this end completed and then the fun will begin as there are now only two double junctions and two crossovers between me and ET terminus. Put like that, I can't see what the problem is and the loops should all be up and running by Christmas.... Now that would be a good time to celebrate... Edited September 27, 2012 by gordon s 19 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium eldavo Posted September 27, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 27, 2012 (edited) That's some serious progress buddy. I thought you were going to eat pizza, drink beer and slum on the sofa while Mrs. S was away! Cheers Dave Edited September 27, 2012 by eldavo 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
92220 Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 Great work Gordon! Looking really good. Now just don't get tempted by turning on templot for a little "play" ..... Iain 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
roger440 Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 Fantastic work as ever! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rowsley17D Posted October 3, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 3, 2012 (edited) Gordon, Just had to bump this one up the charts. Inspirational work. Due to an impending house move, my current "last great project" will not be finished. It looks like I will have a bit more room than you in the new loft 28x14 at workable layout/backscene height. Only problem(?) is a chimney coming up through the middle. I hope the layout can go either side at a workable height, but that will have to wait until I move in and can have a good look around. You and Jeff (Physicsman) have given me some great food for thought as to what the next "last great project" should be. I will be going for SMP and using my existing Peco 75 and large radius points for the fiddle yard and hidden sections. I may have to get Marcway to provide the pointwork, but may order the starter kit and have a go myself. Keep up the good work. Edited October 3, 2012 by Rowsley17D 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brilliant Baseboards Posted October 3, 2012 Share Posted October 3, 2012 Very Impressed with your engineering skills Gordon. I would love to see the end product All the best Daniel 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post gordon s Posted October 10, 2012 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 10, 2012 10th September and work started on this mass of wood, wires and sleepers. One month later and quite a few hours of cussing and swearing, I've at last managed to push this chunk of ET into place. Finally levelled the boards this morning and hoovered the floor of wire offcuts and solder blobs and at least, the room looks fairly tidy again. I've just one last turnout to put in place, as that overlaps the next section but other than that, job done and it works, so miracles can happen despite the massive number of wires and solder joints that are begging to get together and set the buzzer going. The next stage will be continuing the loops across the stairwell, which will require two crossovers and two switched diamond, double junctions. I'm going to tackle the pointwork first as to be honest I fancy a change and getting back to the relative calm of sitting at a bench soldering up bits and bobs is infinitely more pleasurable than rolling around on the floor dodging solder droplets. I did consider using IDC connectors but am still concerned about the difference in wire sizes between the 1.5mm main bus and 16/0.2 droppers. I took one of the connectors apart and the two slot sizes were similar, so not ideal with such a variance in bare copper cross section. Apologies there's not too much to show, but as I've said, regular updates do help me to record times lines which give accurate schedules of work done. If you'd asked me, I would have said I'd been working on these boards for much longer than the real time as logged in this topic, so at least I can be realistic with any time projections. 21 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MrSimon Posted October 10, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 10, 2012 Hi, Impressive fiddle yard, can't wait to see the next bit develop! Cheers Simon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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