Mark 37 Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 I've been watching with interest and been waiting for the painting stage. In case I missed it, what livery are you doing? Best regards, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 17, 2011 Author Share Posted May 17, 2011 I've been watching with interest and been waiting for the painting stage. In case I missed it, what livery are you doing? Best regards, Mark That would be telling... its going to be 37081 in Large logo. http://www.flickr.com/photos/buckielugger/3709849254/sizes/l/in/photostream/ :yahoo: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheesysmith Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 wot thickness plasticard was used on the side of the boxes to bring them to the outer edge of the nose? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark 37 Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 Thanks Carl, I'm liking this thread even more. Large Logo, the best livery out their although I've found a soft spot for Loadhaul 37's recently. (don't tell anyone). I hope your going to cover the painting step by step? I've a Bachy 37/0 body I wanted to turn into a LL livery, but I found the masking an absolute pain in the neck to do. I've since decided to use it for West Coast Railways maroon (easier to mask). Regards, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 19, 2011 Author Share Posted May 19, 2011 wot thickness plasticard was used on the side of the boxes to bring them to the outer edge of the nose? hi it's 20thou plasticard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 19, 2011 Author Share Posted May 19, 2011 Thanks Carl, I'm liking this thread even more. Large Logo, the best livery out their although I've found a soft spot for Loadhaul 37's recently. (don't tell anyone). I hope your going to cover the painting step by step? I've a Bachy 37/0 body I wanted to turn into a LL livery, but I found the masking an absolute pain in the neck to do. I've since decided to use it for West Coast Railways maroon (easier to mask). Regards, Mark hi mark i will be showing it step by step, as for masking, this livery is one of the easy one's to mask. can you tell me what colour you started with? carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark 37 Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 Hi Carl, I started light to dark, yellow, roof grey, blue, black. The problem I had was masking the black around the windows to leave the small yellow suround. Regards, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0121modeller Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 Carl, Thats a great idea & as to bend those grabrails, I'll be trying out that method myself, really inspirational work here, I look forward to more updates on your modification work. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 19, 2011 Author Share Posted May 19, 2011 hi all i have been detailing the chassis, i still have lots of detail to add, but here is work so far. i have used black plastic card, i find it better for chassis, if paint chips, no white shows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 20, 2011 Author Share Posted May 20, 2011 Hi All i have the chassis finnished, for now 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poindexter Posted May 20, 2011 Share Posted May 20, 2011 There can be no doubt, you don't do things by half measures! Very interesting and informative thread. Thank you for the detailed pics and info, I will not be attempting this level of work myself but as a complete rookie in the detailing stakes and I have found this thread helpful. Thank you. Guy P,S Don't scrimp on the masking and painting pics. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheesysmith Posted May 21, 2011 Share Posted May 21, 2011 This thread is a excelent guide for a beginners guide to tractors, but I will say that I didn`t get the cab roof bits, and the underframe is poor, due to the black on black photo`s. It doesn`t give a good guide to what you have done. This isn`t critisism, just constuctive comment on how this could be better. Me, I can see what you have done due to having the different models to compair against. But this is still one of the best threads for a tractor I have seen in ages Cheesysmith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 21, 2011 Author Share Posted May 21, 2011 This thread is a excelent guide for a beginners guide to tractors, but I will say that I didn`t get the cab roof bits, and the underframe is poor, due to the black on black photo`s. It doesn`t give a good guide to what you have done. This isn`t critisism, just constuctive comment on how this could be better. Me, I can see what you have done due to having the different models to compair against. But this is still one of the best threads for a tractor I have seen in ages Cheesysmith Hi m8 Thanks for comments I understand what your saying about the chassis. But its just my way. I will use white for the next to show what’s been done, but I will be weathering the chassis so the detail will show up. I will post pictures of how the cab roof detail was done later. Back to the task. Painting. I am going to do this using the black and white method I use for doing my scale aircraft. 1st Give the primer a light sand with 1200s. 2nd Lightly airbrush black on grills and round the edge of panels, ie the roof. 3rd Lightly airbrush white on the centre of panels and concentrate on top surfaces. Doing this make the final colour lighter or darker, the white give the impression of the top colour having faded in the sun. You will need to have a air regulator on the compressor your using, it needs to allow your airbrush to spray at 10 to 15 psi. Plus you need to have the paint thin, and set the airbrush up to only spray a very thin line. Take your time, do not allow the paint to go on to wet, and is best to leave to dry and keep going over it to build up the paint. That’s it for now, I will leave the black and white to dry for 24h before I take it to the next step. Thanks Carl 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark 37 Posted May 21, 2011 Share Posted May 21, 2011 Carl, Loving the paint tips. I'll employ some of your technic's and experience. If it all goes wrong, you're to blame! lol Thanks, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Downendian Posted May 21, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 21, 2011 Carl Loads of brilliant tips in here, really enjoying this thread. Will employ some of your techniques on the three Lima 40s I'm doing at the moment. However if I worked half as quickly as you do I'd be pleased with myself. Can't wait to see the finished product. Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 21, 2011 Author Share Posted May 21, 2011 Hi all The cab roof detail was done with the help of shawplan The shawplan 37 roof fan is just the job, after removing the fan parts, the hole that the fan centres came out of are spot on for the rear cab roof vent. All you need is this and a sharp scriber, then some scrap 10thou plastic card. Place the fan holder on the plastic card and scribe on the inside of the fan hub hole until you scribe through, that’s the vent base cut out, then get a second piece of 10thou card, using the hole you just cut in the first, turn this first piece upside down and hold it on the second and scribe the same as you did on the first until you cut out the top of the vent. The top will be 0.5mm smaller due to you turning the first upside down, this is because the scribers point is tapered. Then using some 800s sand the edges smooth, sand the tops edges until its 0.7mm smaller than the base, then glue the top on to the base, then glue it on the cab roof. The forward roof vent is just a 20thou 2mm square, then cut 2, 43degrees off from each side starting from 1mm from the back so it leaves 0.4mm to the front point, at this point, glue this on the cab roof, then taper the top front down with a file. Thanks Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 21, 2011 Author Share Posted May 21, 2011 Carl, Loving the paint tips. I'll employ some of your technic's and experience. If it all goes wrong, you're to blame! lol Thanks, Mark Hi mark I do suggest you practise this technique on a scrap body until your happy, to be honest, the paint on a loco is far thicker than an aircraft so it not going to show up the same, it’s a very subtle contrast in colour in the end result. Carl Loads of brilliant tips in here, really enjoying this thread. Will employ some of your techniques on the three Lima 40s I'm doing at the moment. However if I worked half as quickly as you do I'd be pleased with myself. Can't wait to see the finished product. Neil thanks Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 21, 2011 Author Share Posted May 21, 2011 painting. i have done the yellow cab ends. i have also weatherd the chassis, 1st cote, its not finnished but i am adding them to show detail that was done. the coluors used are 33 and 186 this give this result. thanks for looking and any coments are welcome carl 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forest2807 Posted May 21, 2011 Share Posted May 21, 2011 Excellent work Carl, I'm looking forward to seeing the next instalment. To me this is the essence of what our hobby is about. OK, there are as many different aspects to modelling as there are modellers, but I really enjoy seeing this kind of thing, and it's the kind of project that I am usually in the middle of, i.e. updating, rebuilding, and detailing older models to make them totally individual and unique. Inspiring stuff Carl, and I thought you only built car ferries Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 22, 2011 Author Share Posted May 22, 2011 Excellent work Carl, I'm looking forward to seeing the next instalment. To me this is the essence of what our hobby is about. OK, there are as many different aspects to modelling as there are modellers, but I really enjoy seeing this kind of thing, and it's the kind of project that I am usually in the middle of, i.e. updating, rebuilding, and detailing older models to make them totally individual and unique. Inspiring stuff Carl, and I thought you only built car ferries thanks m8 car ferries are just for fun back to the task i have the chassis back in one piece, just need to do the buffer beam detail, the buffer beam on this loco is red, 37081 is the loco i am doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto21 Posted May 22, 2011 Share Posted May 22, 2011 Very nice and really looks great! The work you've done to the underframe makes a huge difference. Looking forward to seeing it fully painted now...! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 22, 2011 Author Share Posted May 22, 2011 hi all Masking! i use 2" masking tape honest, i do!!! get anything with a smooth surface and stick a stip of 2" tape lightly on it, cut this with a sharp knife and metal rule in to 3mm strips. 3mm stips are easy to handle. never use the tapes outer edge, its never flat or smooth 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 22, 2011 Author Share Posted May 22, 2011 Very nice and really looks great! The work you've done to the underframe makes a huge difference. Looking forward to seeing it fully painted now...! thanks for the comment m8 here is the blue going on 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto21 Posted May 22, 2011 Share Posted May 22, 2011 Nice! Which blue did you use? I find rail blue the hardest colour to replicate - Railmatch's shade never looks right in my opinion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 22, 2011 Author Share Posted May 22, 2011 Nice! Which blue did you use? I find rail blue the hardest colour to replicate - Railmatch's shade never looks right in my opinion i use Humbrol 221 Garter Blue with a dab of 33 to darken it, or with 34 to look fadded, its the nearest i can get to the real colour. i took some up to match on 37097 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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