Laminated solder construction

[Pannier Tank]

How do other RMweb members go about Laminating Brass Etches e.g Coupling Rods? Would this best be achieved by solder paste?

 

 

 

[Mike G]

My preference is to tin one inside - usually 188 degree solder - then add flux on the other side, join together (held by some sort of mechanical means, away from the end you're going to solder) and add heat and a little solder from the sides. No dramas and has worked neatly for all my engines...coupling and connecting rods.

 

Mike

[James]

I find that wooden clothes pegs are good mechanical means!

[bertiedog]

A small tip for nickel silver side rods and laminating the parts, pre-tin them certainly and then work from the middle, heating the rods edge, but the tip is the solder to employ, use the sometimes despised pure tin lead free solder, the modern electrical solder.

It needs a touch more heat than 60/40 solder, but the big advantage is the lead free aspect, the pure tin does not oxidise and the joint is more invisible, lead solder is grey in colour and gets darker with age, leaving the join line visible, especially at the ends.

Stephen.

[Kenton]

Tips so far apply to coupling rods and I would be on full agreement - oh, and line them up with blackened steel pins with some boot polish (solder mask) the last thing you want is the solder to run into those crank pin holes.

 

But for other laminates, small items on to large items in particular, I would use solder paste.

Always work from the centre to the outside with plenty of flux.

 

With some really difficult to get at parts (or those that may impact on other parts nearby) I dry solder - tin both faces and join without flux simply by heating together.

[Kris]

I tin both sides then hold together before running a small amount of solder paint down the edge which seems to help the bond.

[Lady_Ava_Hay]

I once watched a demo of this using the methods described and then a small fillet of low melt solder to seal the joint. It was O gauge but the finish was worth the extra work.

[Pannier Tank]

Many thanks for all the advice, much appreciated.

 

My first job is going to be a 'triple lamination', levers for the Scalefour Leverframe.

 

I need to look for a decent Soldering as my Antex used for electronic work is a bit small.

[bertiedog]

Tips so far apply to coupling rods and I would be on full agreement - oh, and line them up with blackened steel pins with some boot polish (solder mask) the last thing you want is the solder to run into those crank pin holes

 

To make steel entirely un-solderable heat to bright red heat and drop into a tray with old woollen socks, cut to shreds, in it, or if the steel is a rod or bar rub with a old wollen sock whilst at red heat, it carbonises the surface, as in Gunsmiths blackening of barrels. Be prepared for some smelly smoke!

And don't worry on assembling the siderods filling the holes with solder, it makes a perfect white metal bearing after gently drilling out, with a drill of the required size.

Stephen.

[Coombe Barton]

My first job is going to be a 'triple lamination', levers for the Scalefour Leverframe.

 

Whichever method make sure you can apply enough pressure to laminate with the minimum of solder in between the sections - the tolerances are tight - leave gaps and you'll be fettling for ages - just llike wot I did!