craigwelsh Posted May 20, 2010 Author Share Posted May 20, 2010 Thanks for the tip there Colin and thanks for the compliment too . Got this back from PPD today in brass and ns. As the levers were on both extremes of where they needed to be I did a range of 0.1mm increments to choose the square one. I'll make them up tonight and do a production batch of the one that works. Railex is probably out now but I wont give anymore dates now until I have them back! It'll be interesting to see how the brass compares as it should be slightly cheaper for some parts. Other bits on this test were slimmer AJ plates, 10ft brakes and fixed 17ft 6 parts. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted May 20, 2010 Author Share Posted May 20, 2010 Success, we have a square lever guard formed from the brass sheet! Will have to see how the NS one looks but we have success here now . Sorry about the lens effect on the magnifier but a closeup to show the holes line up too. They are still slightly further apart than they need to be but its close enough now! Apart from being square this time the other objective was not to stick out past the sides of a wooden mineral and its now spot on there. There is a slight knack to folding them but once you get it I think people should be ok making up a batch with a pair of tweezers like the above and the mk1 thumb to fold bits. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iak Posted May 20, 2010 Share Posted May 20, 2010 Absolutely splendid Craig... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mucky Duck Posted May 20, 2010 Share Posted May 20, 2010 A work of Art! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted May 20, 2010 Author Share Posted May 20, 2010 Thanks chaps. I'll see how they solder and clean up in a minute. I've also had some good news about brass buffer ferrules for plastic bodies tonight which is great news. Not only can 1mm rams then be used but you get a good bearing surface instead of the plastic . Saves me faffing with circles of plastic, if they are cheap enough anyway. Still got 10ft tie bars around if anyone else needs some.. Oh and my painting of a wagon plate earlier doesn't look as bad when you look at the NRM Medfit plate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted May 25, 2010 Author Share Posted May 25, 2010 My variants on hinged AJ fitting. Tested and tweaked them tonight. Mine has finer tags for the hinge that don't show up underneath. There is also a washer that allows countersunk screws to be used and these are much less visible than the old cheesehead. The other type i've done but not tested yet has the slot for adjustment on the centreline which should avoid any odd forces acting on the coupling but i'll have to build that into a new wagon to test. This shows the jig for fitting the 1.2mm soft iron dropper for the electromagnet onto the AJ 11 thou guitar string. Sorry its a bit blurry, not enough light here for the macro! The odd bit of wire sticking out holds the dropper in the jig while its being positioned. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wizard of the Moor Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 Looking good, Craig! What flux do you use for soldering the droppers onto the AJ wire? This is one area that always seems to lead to rusty wheels Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted May 26, 2010 Author Share Posted May 26, 2010 Looking good, Craig! What flux do you use for soldering the droppers onto the AJ wire? This is one area that always seems to lead to rusty wheels 12% phosflux from London Road (should probably dilute my own sometime...). I don't use much and tin the dropper beforehand after its had a good file to shine it up. Wheels normally rust for me after I put the chassis in the Ultrasonic bath with them still on! Its normally in the front though on these instead of the tyre and I intend to fill that with a resin insert when I get a chance. I don't use Alan Gibson wheels at all, spoked are Exactoscale Stainless steel. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted June 6, 2010 Author Share Posted June 6, 2010 Just a reminder to anyone building some of the PO wagons that instructions are available http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/blog/64/entry-431-a-continuation-my-wooden-wagon-underframe-kit/ though I do intend to revisit them when I can to update some content. Feedback is greatly appreciated. Must get on with a production etch of the levers now and the guide for that tricky lever guard (tricky if you don't know how that is..)! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poggy1165 Posted June 6, 2010 Share Posted June 6, 2010 Fantastic work Craig! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
newport_rod Posted June 9, 2010 Share Posted June 9, 2010 Hello Craig I bought a couple of the RCH etches from you at S4 AGM, and very nice they look too. And I've found the excellent instructions - thanks. I was wondering afterwards though, why you chose resin for your solebars rather than whitemetal. It seems to me that whitematal would offer advantages with weight, ability to solder it and it lends itself to production in greater numbers than resin. (And the greater advantage that you sell me a few too). Thanks Rod Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iak Posted June 9, 2010 Share Posted June 9, 2010 Methinks these etches are going to sell like hot cakes...... Craigs Tie Bars are very nice as well Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted June 9, 2010 Author Share Posted June 9, 2010 Hello Craig I bought a couple of the RCH etches from you at S4 AGM, and very nice they look too. And I've found the excellent instructions - thanks. I was wondering afterwards though, why you chose resin for your solebars rather than whitemetal. It seems to me that whitematal would offer advantages with weight, ability to solder it and it lends itself to production in greater numbers than resin. (And the greater advantage that you sell me a few too). Thanks Rod Thanks very much, I have a Guinea pig currently folding up some of the test lever guards at the moment to complete the instructions for those too while I get the production etch properly drawn. Let me know if you think any improvements can be made to the base instructions. Solebars were made by a club member from a plasticard master with grandt line bolt detail rather than a more robust mould. They do allow you to solder the vee and door springs etc through them as the resin is more resistant to 183deg solder than whitemetal. I cast the solebars at home from a mould he made me and its a clean process next to the sink. I'll need some new ones soon for a 17ft 6 underframe for the LMS 1666 and resin again seems the easier option than getting a batch of wm ones done. I'm afraid wm would have disadvantages for me in my eyes.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kempenfelt Posted June 9, 2010 Share Posted June 9, 2010 I've been mistaken for a few things in my time but never a guinea pig! I'll have a go tonight hopefully if I can stay awake long enough and will report back! Rod, I have been using the chassis etches in conjunction with the latest Parkside RCH kits. It is worth noting that at first I intended to keep the moulded spring stops, however I changed my mind as the etched spring stops included on the chassis are a very useful way of positioning the body on the chassis for alignment purposes. Also please not that there is a slight gap (depending on the origins of the chosen body)between the chassis etch and the wagon body floor, therefore if the etched spring stops are not used then it could be very easy to mount the body too low upon the chassis. I agree the instructions in there present state are very good and I hope to assist Craig to make a few minor tweeks, however you can't go far wrong (IMHO) if you stick to what's written. My final bit of advice is to refer back to Craig's picture's as it really helps to visualise what is being described and what the final outcome should look like. I was amazed at the difference between Craig's etches and those from Masokit's, the latter now almost apearing clumsy in comparison. However the biggest improvement IMHO is the ease of assembling and securing the brakegear! (Now Craig does that report get me any free etches! ) Good luck Rod, i'm sure you'll enjoy it! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
newport_rod Posted June 10, 2010 Share Posted June 10, 2010 Thanks for you comments and tips Craig and Kampenfelt. The instructions look superb. I have assembled a few of Masokits' chassis and if the finished product betters those they'll be excellent indeed. Not convinced about the superiority of resin though. Moulds for whitemetal casting can be made from plastic masters created in the way described. The old Masokits dumb-buffer wagons were made in this way. I'm looking forward to getting the time to assemble them! Cheers Rod Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trustytrev Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 Hello Craig, Have you tried to capture images of small parts using a flatbed scanner. The clarity and expansion capabilities of the images are far superior to macro camera images. trustytrev. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted July 1, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 1, 2010 Craig - can you clarify whether the final versions of the brake lever & ratchet etches are available for those of us who bought the RCH chassis from you at Scaleforum last year, please? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted July 3, 2010 Author Share Posted July 3, 2010 Hello Craig, Have you tried to capture images of small parts using a flatbed scanner. The clarity and expansion capabilities of the images are far superior to macro camera images. trustytrev. Yes I do use the scanner for flat etches when I remember, the problem with something like the lever guard is that the lid can easily crush it! Some better pictures should be in print soon anyway. Craig - can you clarify whether the final versions of the brake lever & ratchet etches are available for those of us who bought the RCH chassis from you at Scaleforum last year, please? At the etchers at the moment Tim, I had to do a bit more learning in Autocad to hatch the production etches correctly without massive file sizes or my pc crashing! On the plus side the 10ft morton levers and brakes have also gone to be done.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted July 15, 2010 Author Share Posted July 15, 2010 While I wait for some code to compile, here is a quick snap of what turned up in the post today.. I'll have to check they work correctly later but the holes have all etched which is always a good start. The dotted sections on the 10ft brakes allow you to solder them to some thin PCB and isolate each side from each other and an AJ mount in the centre. I hope! Note I used up the excess space for some spare spring carriers and some fishplates of decent thickness to replace the Colin Waite ones we have been using on Slattocks. Lost wax would be expensive on the scale we need where plastic isn't appropriate! Yes they do have square bolts on the one side in a variety of angles.. I'll let people know about buying this stuff when i've had an invoice and talked to some options for making it available. I've only ordered enough to check they are tooled and fine at the moment. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iak Posted July 15, 2010 Share Posted July 15, 2010 Dribbling and excited jumping up and down ensues......... They look rather splendid Craig Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kempenfelt Posted July 15, 2010 Share Posted July 15, 2010 Looks like someone found their camera! Latest sheets of goodies look very interesting, I have a feeling I can find a home for some of those fishplates too! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted July 15, 2010 Author Share Posted July 15, 2010 Well they all work correctly and i'm going to have fun with over 50 sets of 9ft brake levers! Now I just need to await the invoice . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iak Posted July 16, 2010 Share Posted July 16, 2010 Those piccies make these look even tastier Craig... Yummy... The lever guides look especially effective Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted July 16, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 16, 2010 Yes please - I want, I want, I want!! I'm also interested in some fishplates, please Craig, besides the 9' and 10' brake levers etc., thanks! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted July 16, 2010 Author Share Posted July 16, 2010 Those piccies make these look even tastier Craig... Yummy... The lever guides look especially effective They should be, they've taken a year to perfect! If i'd got them right first time you'd all be able to buy them by now (and i'd have saved a few £100..) but I wanted something that always folded up square which we now have . Yes please - I want, I want, I want!! I'm also interested in some fishplates, please Craig, besides the 9' and 10' brake levers etc., thanks! You'll have to do some more vans now Tim, don't even have to spring them either . Unlike those I was trying to build at your members day, these have all the holes etches through properly so it was a doddle to drill and pin 0.4mm. An etch of these, levers and my tie bars would make a good model for someone who likes compensation instead of springing still too.. It'll be interesting to see what happens with the fishplates as they were just an easy thing to fill the excess space but you only get two frets per 27 sets of levers.. I can certainly supply some though once i've put mine aside for Slattocks. Note the two types of lever have not got separate bending guides to show the correct forming of the loop on the end. I hadn't done that before and there is now a little extra material on the lever for it while the guides are now also etched through instead of 1/2 etch. This view shows how you can electrically split the brakes on each side via the cut lines and some pcb to avoid the possibility of shorts. The etch also has a spare safety loop on it though most other bits are bit enough not to need spares.. I'm annoyed I didn't think of adding a vacuum cylinder actuating arm before I finished this . Both levers are at the correct angle to account for the different centres of rotation. The guide is also correct and different from the other type (more angled to reach the inner vee as there aren't outer vee's when Moreton is fitted). Both types of clutch are on the etch with spares though I doubt many will bother to fit the less obvious of the two clutches for the more plain lever side! Insulating the sets of brake shoes just in case something touches a wheel - good idea if it weren't for the fact Bill Bedford w-irons have such a wide footprint . I will have to tweak it a little now! The safety loops are quite close to the springing points too. Direct comparison of mine and the Masokits subframe, about 1/2 the width and no silly tab for the lever guard! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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