RMweb Premium Alex Duckworth Posted October 17, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 17, 2013 Perspex is a trade name. I have always though it is acrylic. Anyone know for certain? Andrew Yes it is a trade name, but it has now become ubiquitous, like Hoover. It is, to the best of my knowledge, a two part acrylic. My point was, however, that is a very high quality acrylic unlike the cheap DIY store sheet - in short, real Perspex , not cheap acrylic. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted October 17, 2013 Share Posted October 17, 2013 (edited) As I understand it the difference is between extruded and cast acrylic sheet. Explanation of the differences here: http://www.bayplastics.co.uk/acrylicsheet_faq.htm Edited October 17, 2013 by Rabs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
oily Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 (edited) Was helping clear out a workshop and we found the item shown in picture. I think it's a depthing tool because I seem to remember Tim Watson writing an article on gear meshing in an MRJ Compendium a while back using a picture of one that looked like the brother of this one. It seems to be nickel or nickel plated and in good condition. So several questions: Am I correct is it a depthing tool and useful for 2mm gear meshing? Does it have any value nowadays as I guess it pretty antique? If so where should we sell it, indeed is it likely anyone would want to buy it? Or am I asking on the wrong forum perhaps? But having seem the above mentioned article I thought it might be of interest in 2mm work. Many thanks for any information. Oliver Edited October 23, 2013 by oily Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelcliffe Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 (edited) Oliver, Its a watchmaker's or clockmaker's gear depthing tool. Originally used to determine and mark out the centres to drill for shafts to carry gears in a clock or watch mechanism. It has some antique tool value on the s/hand market, though I've no idea how much. It looks to be complete and un-damaged. Its a useful tool for some bits of 2mm component manufacture. So, if you were thinking of donating it somewhere, the 2mm Scale Association wheel making team could make use of a second one for checking wheels. I might even be interested in paying a modest sum for it. Or, for general model making, its a useful tool for setting out frames if you are scratchbuilding a mechanism. I think Tim's article in the old MRJ compendium covers it's use. - Nigel (2mm wagon wheel manufacturing organiser ) Edited October 23, 2013 by Nigelcliffe Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
autocoupler942 Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 (edited) On ebay one sold recently for just under £30 and currently there is another offered at about £90 . I paid £35 for a brass one 30 years ago at an antiques fair. Don't start googling as there is so much of related interest you might go watch/clockmaking instead. Edited October 24, 2013 by autocoupler942 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 (edited) Hi is there a thread here on lowering the farish 37 John Hi John, I have modified a few of my Farish 37's. You can either lower the body on the chassis as bcnPete did on his Moorswater Coombe Junction Blog or you can raise the bogies which I have done on several of my 37's. I can post some instructions on raising the bogies if you would like them. Best regards, Jeremy Edited October 24, 2013 by cornish trains jez Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 Yes please Jeremy John Hi John, I'll get some photos of the process and then post these tomorrow with step by step instructions. Here is my modified 37196 which was resprayed by the excellent David Penman at Custom Resprays. Highly recommended. Best regards, Jeremy 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted October 24, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 24, 2013 Pete's Moorswater Coombe blog is worth reading anyway and some nice shots of the 37. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DavidLong Posted October 28, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 28, 2013 See below a couple of shots of L & Y gas lamps: I have long wanted to make some of these, especially as I can remember them (!), and they would do very nicely for a new layout. The lamp part wouldn't be too difficult cobbled up from bits of wire and nickel with some clear plastic turned up for the lamp. What defeats me is the post with its taper. The post doesn't have much in the way of diameter and turning such a taper on a whippy bit of brass looks difficult to say the least. Anyone on here got any ideas or should I just accept a non-tapered post in 2 mil? The flared foot could be done with the old solder-flow trick. By the way, if anyone knows of a drawing that they could point me at I would be grateful. LMS Lineside has photos but no drawing; maybe an L & Y Society volume would have one. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 For me the taper is usually obvious if you look at an object on it's own. As part of a scene it will be less conspicuous until the observer starts taking in more of the detail of the objects within it. The taper on the upper picture is more obvious than in the lower one. In my opinion only you know if you are willing to make a concession. I'd be racking my brains for a source of tapered 'sticks' to cut the posts out of at the right diameters (I can't think of any - sorry) or trying to make some. I think I would try 'turning' between centres, perhaps with something a little softer than brass, and removing the material with a sanding stick. Cut the excess fat bit off the thin end once you're done. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
-missy- Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 (edited) Hello. The way I have made tapers on a bit of rod before is to hold them in a lathe of minicraft drill and simply run a piece of emery cloth along its length pinching it between my fingers while its rotating. Probably not the best way of doing it but it worked for me. With a bit of patience you can create very convincing tapers but be careful as it can get a bit warm if you pinch it too tight. M Edited October 29, 2013 by -missy- Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 Cut a sheet of paper into a right angled triangle and cover with pritt stick. Put a round rod of the onto one edge and roll it up - instant taper. If you want a curved taper, cut the paper into an appropriate shape (for the shape of those lamp posts the hypotenuse of the 'triangle' needs to be concave) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 How about 3D printing them at Shapeways? Probably very fragile in 2mm, but certainly do-able in larger scales. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Etched Pixels Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Probably ok printed in brass providing they are big enough to survive the process - would need to be about 6" dia in the real world for that Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DavidLong Posted October 31, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 31, 2013 Thanks to everyone for the suggestions so far. I have had 48 views but no comments in the Prototype Questions section so there is no more information about drawings and, therefore, dimensions. However, I would think that Alan's estimate of 6" diameter or 1mm in 2mm scale is probably not far from the truth for the post. I would certainly prefer it in metal not only for robustness but also for soldering the gas lamp apparatus to it. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 I think that my method still works though - just use a metal rod. The paper will all be at the bottom, just up to the top of the taper,so unless you are soldering it to your board... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 2mmMark Posted October 31, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 31, 2013 Thanks to everyone for the suggestions so far. I have had 48 views but no comments in the Prototype Questions section so there is no more information about drawings and, therefore, dimensions. However, I would think that Alan's estimate of 6" diameter or 1mm in 2mm scale is probably not far from the truth for the post. I would certainly prefer it in metal not only for robustness but also for soldering the gas lamp apparatus to it. David Sadly, I think there's no real substitute to turning a shallow taper between centres. If you have a lathe and no tailstock centre but do have a tailstock drill chuck, you could use a 2mm assn phosphor bronze axle bearing held in the chuck and turn down the posts from 1.5mm (or 1/16") brass rod. Provided you don't spin the rod too fast, the bearing should be well up to the job if lubricated. Mark. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Izzy Posted October 31, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 31, 2013 Turning between centres using say 1/8" brass would allow you to form the base nicely with a round nose tool ground to the right profile, as the bottom seems to be considerably larger in dia than the rest of the post. Izzy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 Do you have a lathe David? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted October 31, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 31, 2013 The ideal is to use tube so the feed wire can be up the middle with the tube as the return. (you were planning to make the work?) Which makes turning a taper very hard. Possible Rabs idea of paper wound round the tube is feasible Rollling from the small end the last later will cover the spiral with just a line down the back. If you soldered the top on first and rolled it up on the edge of the bench you should be able to do the soldering before adding the paper. Admittedly it is easier to type than to do but that is my thoughts. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DavidLong Posted November 3, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 3, 2013 I quite like the sound of 3D printing using brass as this would satisfy a number of requirements: 1. Robust 2. Ability to solder the lamp section to the post 3. Consistency of output I am still pursuing a couple of leads relating to a drawing. And Don, I have absolutely no intention of trying to make them work! Once again, many thanks for the responses. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
oily Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 (edited) I just tried to put a collection of Proxxon tools on the classified section but couldn't get it to accept! No sure why. But I have a local modelling friend who has a collection of Proxxon items in very good condition for sale and I'm already set up otherwise I'd buy them myself. It's a TBM220 drill with keyed chuck, compound table, vice etc on an extended column which is quite useful as I've copied the idea myself. Also a Micromot 50E hand drill very useful if you don't have a lathe for turning things like domes and chimneys. At new prices there's over £300 of Proxxon items. They're all things I use for 2mm work so I thought it might be of interest here as I failed on the classified. If you're interest contact me and I'll put you in touch as he doesn't use Yahoo Groups!! Oliver Edited November 8, 2013 by oily Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
backofanenvelope Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 Oooh how I would love them, but santa is not delivering to this part of the world this year.. Hope they find a good home. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
oily Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 Does anyone have experience and tips for making the clamps on the lower half of an LSWR smokebox door? I guess they'd just have to be a representation only but what shape and size would be best? The door is made (filed down disc of nickel silver) and the hinge and straps ready to solder on but thought it better to wait to see what advice there is about the clamps. Thanks for any advice Oliver Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kris Posted November 17, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 17, 2013 Plywood makes for a good base. The easy track glue works well with this. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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