dogioio Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 Before embarking on the dauntless task of scratch building a chassis for the above can anyone advise the availiability of an etch for this class Regards Roger Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Smith Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 Roger, Possibly a silly question, but what class? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixie Posted August 12, 2013 Author Share Posted August 12, 2013 Topics now merged. Pix Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanPartridge Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 Where do you get the value for the wheel diameter? Does it include the flange or not? Many thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnb Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 The diameter is measured across the tread and is nominally the 'as new' dimension. Over time this will wear down, I believe that in steam days it could be as much as two inches (50mm) before the wheel was retyred. I am not sure about diesels but is a significant amount, probably an inch (25mm) or more. No doubt one of our more knowledgeable memebrs will be along very soon with the precise amounts. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogioio Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 Roger, Possibly a silly question, but what class? Sorry Ian Not a very good Post ! Castle class im contemplating doing Regards Roger Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
oily Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 With DG couplings in 2mm scale does it matter which side one solders the dropper wire? Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PLD Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 With DG couplings in 2mm scale does it matter which side one solders the dropper wire? Thanks In theory no, so long as the magnets are fairly centrally mounted. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBS Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 Sorry Ian Not a very good Post ! Castle class im contemplating doing Regards Roger Sorry Ian Not a very good Post ! Castle class im contemplating doing Regards RogerRoger, I have just completed artwork for a trial etch of a Saint chassis and details, to go with the 3D printed superstructure. Depending on the results of that, and on when the commercial N-gauge Castle is actually available (watch Hell freezing in the background), the next project is to be a Star in 2mm FS. The chassis for that will, of course, be the same as for the Castle, give or take the length of the firebox/cab section which I'm sure can be made adaptable. I also intend to produce a compatible Star superstructure as a 3D print, in 2mmFS and in N-gauge.Watch this space, John 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogioio Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 Roger, I have just completed artwork for a trial etch of a Saint chassis and details, to go with the 3D printed superstructure. Depending on the results of that, and on when the commercial N-gauge Castle is actually available (watch Hell freezing in the background), the next project is to be a Star in 2mm FS. The chassis for that will, of course, be the same as for the Castle, give or take the length of the firebox/cab section which I'm sure can be made adaptable. I also intend to produce a compatible Star superstructure as a 3D print, in 2mmFS and in N-gauge. Watch this space, John Hi John , Many thanks for that. I have been following your postings with great interest. In the meantime i will complete dwgs for scratch building. Bit too old for this cad stuff!!!! Look forward to your excellent postings Regards Roger Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
oily Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 Where can one buy etched cab side number plates for a 2mm scale LSWR/SR 4-4-0 T9? We've tried Kingscross Plates, Guilplates and Diane Carney Nameplates without success. Anyone have any ideas? We're looking for two pairs probably both the same number. Many thanks" Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 Where can one buy etched cab side number plates for a 2mm scale LSWR/SR 4-4-0 T9? We've tried Kingscross Plates, Guilplates and Diane Carney Nameplates without success. Anyone have any ideas? We're looking for two pairs probably both the same number. Many thanks" Have you tried Brian at Shawplan? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Etched Pixels Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 I've done custom LBSCR ones for people. I imagine LSWR is also doable. Depends how much of a hurry you are in. Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 Narrow Planet do custom plates I think. http://narrowplanet.co.uk/ Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted August 23, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 23, 2013 Narrow Planet do custom plates I think. http://narrowplanet.co.uk/ Andy Indeed they do they did a cracking set for my D48 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
oily Posted August 25, 2013 Share Posted August 25, 2013 Narrow Planet do custom plates I think. http://narrowplanet.co.uk/ Andy Good suggestion. They've agreed to do a set even after we sent photos and dimensioned drawings so looks like progress! Many thanks for that. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ian Smeeton Posted September 6, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 6, 2013 This has probably been covered before, However When building pints, copperclad or easitrac, is it necessary to joggle the stock rails? Regards Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DavidLong Posted September 6, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 6, 2013 This has probably been covered before, However When building pints, copperclad or easitrac, is it necessary to joggle the stock rails? Regards Ian Only if you are building Great Western PW who I believe did use joggles. If you make sure that the end of the switch is filed really thin and the angle of cut on the straight switch matches the bend on the stock rail it isn't necessary. I've never had to put joggles in. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted September 6, 2013 Share Posted September 6, 2013 Some advocate one joggle. Track does if memory serves. I have joggles in both rails but then it is meant to be GW. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted September 7, 2013 Share Posted September 7, 2013 Track seems to suggest a joggle on both rails - at least the bit I just flicked to did. If you don't want to joggle the rails but find it hard to get the blade thin enough at the tip without filing through the web and weakening it the fiNetrax people have this suggestion: To reinforce the blade before filing. The idea is that this makes it easier to get a sharp tip and avoids the need for the file-bend-file process usually used. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ian Smeeton Posted September 7, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 7, 2013 Many Thanks. The bullet will be bit, but only after a weeks holiday (Via the N Gauge show as its the only railway I'll be allowed near) Regards Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Armchair Modeller Posted September 7, 2013 Share Posted September 7, 2013 Remember, it is only a small part of the point blade at the top that ever comes in contact with the wheels. You don't have to make the whole point blade come to a sharp point at the end. I tend to finish the blades off in situ, using a rat-tailed file to gently taper the top in both the horisontal and the vertical plane. I don't find I need joggles, as such. If you are modelling bullhead points, you do need a sharp bend in the stock rail of the diverging road - something I don't see too often in model form. Martin Wynne has posted some good stuff on this - see http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/72348-building-a-cl-curved-crossover-in-situ/&do=findComment&comment=1057014 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
autocoupler942 Posted September 7, 2013 Share Posted September 7, 2013 On his site Martin shows the use of a small mirror to eyeball track flow - just as I have been recommending for 30 years at 2mm track building demo's. I never got round to taking photo's myself.of the application. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
54Strat Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 Hi, I've a couple of questions, if you'd be so kind.. Does the 'ram' mentioned in buffers 2-064 to 2-068 refer to the distance from the head to the piston casing, i.e. the distance the head can move back before hitting the piston case? I'm looking for the right buffers for the association's 24.5t mineral wagons, and wondering which ones are suitable as the 2-425/2 turned head ones suggested use the old codes. Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
oily Posted September 13, 2013 Share Posted September 13, 2013 Does anyone have good advice on fitting steam domes? First there's the problem of holding it in position while soldering it. And the second problem is how to solder it. 1st - Holding it seems to require some sort of screw from below, if you can access it, but is it best to have a tiny screw through a tiny hole or a larger hole in boiler with a smaller screw through a rectangular washer so that it sits better and can be soldered from below while being held in position. Seems quite difficult also to have the undersurface absolutely fitting the boiler curve, and a large hole might help here. 2nd - Is it better to solder from within boiler or around the top (edge of dome) with a soldering iron. There are some fittings soldered into the top of the dome so a blowlamp will certainly disturb them and a even a large iron might if the brass dome gets too hot. And finally it needs to be done so that everything underneath can be removed thus allowing the weights in the boiler to slide into position. What methods have people found works. Many thanks for any tips. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now