GC Jack Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 Can anyone help. Some unmixed araldite dripped onto a couple of coaches, I think is was the main component not the hardener, any tips on how to remove it please? Jack Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 Carefully! From memory, something like white spirit or meths might help clean it up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrism247 Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 ..thinners works a treat to remove on most surfaces - including hands ! - , but would probably fetch the paint off also on a model . 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralph R Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 Meths definately works. It will also soften hardened Araldite but you can also get some glue remover from B&Q if all else fails. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelp Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 ..thinners works a treat to remove on most surfaces - including hands ! - , but would probably fetch the paint off also on a model . Thinners will melt the plastic also. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
landscapes Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 Hi I use White Spirit and it has always worked with no problems and does not affect the plastic. Regards David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 White Spirit will remove Bachmann Lettering/ Lining Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coppercap Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 Thinners will melt the plastic also. No, it won't melt it, it will dissolve it. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelp Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 I stand corrected.....sorry, sit corrected. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GC Jack Posted June 22, 2011 Author Share Posted June 22, 2011 Thanks to everyone I'll try all these and post again, Jack Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
renovater 1 Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 Crazy as it might sound, nothing better than liquid brake fluid !! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold john new Posted July 23, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 23, 2017 (edited) I need to re-fix a body shell (Hornby CEGB diesel shunter) as the clip-fit fixing lugs for the cab snapped off when it accidentally fell on the floor off my grandson's layout. Easy to do a hidden fix with a small wood block and a self-tapping screw up from underneath but can someone please confirm Araldite (or similar manufacturer's quick-fix epoxy) won't dissolve the clear plastic glazing when I glue in the wood block? Will also use the opportunity to add some cab interior details etc., now it is on the workbench as opposed to in the stock box. Edited July 23, 2017 by john new Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coppercap Posted July 23, 2017 Share Posted July 23, 2017 can someone please confirm Araldite (or similar manufacturer's quick-fix epoxy) won't dissolve the clear plastic glazing when I glue in the wood block? Araldite doesn't stick to most plastics particularly well. Mix up some Araldite or Devcon on styrene sheet, and when it's hardened you can just peel it off. I have used JB Weld for some things, it mixes up a grey colour, and I've found it sets much more solidly than other epoxy resins, but it still peels off styrene. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold john new Posted July 23, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 23, 2017 (edited) Araldite doesn't stick to most plastics particularly well. Mix up some Araldite or Devcon on styrene sheet, and when it's hardened you can just peel it off. I have used JB Weld for some things, it mixes up a grey colour, and I've found it sets much more solidly than other epoxy resins, but it still peels off styrene. Thanks for that. Part of my problem is I don't know what type of plastic this Hornby glazing block is. It forms a big open bottom cube inside the cab shell going down to footplate level. If it is just clear poly' then I can stick in some more poly sheet using standard poly cement, MekPak or similar and screw into that. However, I have made the assumption in the past that some plastic moulded display equipment I cracked was formed in clear polystyrene and the repair failed miserably. (It wasn't poly so the usual options didn't fuse it together) I can easily do a bodge with self adhesive Velcro fastenings to hold it together but was hoping for something a bit more sophisticated. Edited July 23, 2017 by john new Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold john new Posted May 26, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 26, 2019 On 23/07/2017 at 18:37, john new said: Thanks for that. Part of my problem is I don't know what type of plastic this Hornby glazing block is. It forms a big open bottom cube inside the cab shell going down to footplate level. If it is just clear poly' then I can stick in some more poly sheet using standard poly cement, MekPak or similar and screw into that. However, I have made the assumption in the past that some plastic moulded display equipment I cracked was formed in clear polystyrene and the repair failed miserably. (It wasn't poly so the usual options didn't fuse it together) I can easily do a bodge with self adhesive Velcro fastenings to hold it together but was hoping for something a bit more sophisticated. For some reason after I got the correct answer from Hornby the answer didn't get posted here so belatedly now added with apologies - Hello Mr New, Thank you for your email, the body of your locomotive is manufactured from HIPS (high impact polystyrene) the cab windows are Krystal Clear. Please avoid using superglue when re fitting any glazed parts. Above is from Hornby's email to me 26 Jul 2017. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted May 27, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 27, 2019 I suspect that the reason Araldite/Devcon won't adhere well to some plastic surfaces is that such surfaces are quite smooth and shiny, and do not provide a good 'key'. An abrasive will improve matters, increasing the surface area for the adhesive to grip to at a microscopic level, which may be necessary if this is a load bearing bond. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatB Posted May 28, 2019 Share Posted May 28, 2019 There are epoxies specifically designed to bond metals. I would expect them to also work on equally non-porous plastics, but I'm not sure where you might get small quantities. As for removal of unmixed material, one of the usual recommendations for getting the uncured mixed stuff off hands and tools is white vinegar. Worth a try, cheap and probably rather more model/paint friendly than solvent products. And that'll teach me to check the date on the original post :D. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold john new Posted May 28, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 28, 2019 Thanks for the tip. Always useful to get info and personally I prefer activated old threads to keep linked topic related posts together than a plethora of new one's. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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