Chivers Finelines Posted November 28, 2009 Share Posted November 28, 2009 Right, my brother and me have recently been exhausting the local model shop of the second hand items they have for grabs and 99% of it is in the wrong livery for our period or the same number, so we have decided to repaint some and re-number others, but I have never come across such transfers like Bachmann ones!! They just don't want to come off!! Now We have tried Mirco sol, all products and it takes it off soooooooo slowly it would take a week to do one! I am currently using metallic t-cut which I happen to have, but it does leave the surface shiny but does work rather quickly. My brother has used the back edge of a blade with success but we fear for the paint underneath!! He is currently playing with brake fluid on one - I don't like that idea! So my question is How do you guys remove your Bachmann transfers?, are there any products out there which will remove them quickly without making the surface shiny?!?! How do you, DO YOURS?!?!? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
60B Posted November 28, 2009 Share Posted November 28, 2009 I used thinners on a cotton bud, but it seems to smudge it. Try a new cotton bud when it stops working and tissue paper to suck up any liquid. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted November 28, 2009 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 28, 2009 I've never had a problem with using Microsol to remove them. I apply it to the model with a paint bruch, leave it for a minute and then 9 out of 10 times it just wipes off with a tissue, I then reapply and leave for a shorter time before wiping off again to get rid of any remaining marks. In some cases it takes a bit longer soaking, or a few extra repetitions, but other than Class 66 side numbers in EWS (that are a real pain) I havent had a problem on countless locos. If it proves really hard to shift after leaving it to soak I use a thumb nail to scrape it off (followed by a second coat again to shift the remainder) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chivers Finelines Posted November 28, 2009 Author Share Posted November 28, 2009 I used thinners on a cotton bud, but it seems to smudge it. Try a new cotton bud when it stops working and tissue paper to suck up any liquid. Ohhh forgot that one, yes we tried the thinners on a there TTA, it did work but we were not happy with how it left the surface. I don't know if he used a cotton bud he may have used a cloth. I've never had a problem with using Microsol to remove them. I apply it to the model with a paint bruch, leave it for a minute and then 9 out of 10 times it just wipes off with a tissue, I then reapply and leave for a shorter time before wiping off again to get rid of any remaining marks. In some cases it takes a bit longer soaking, or a few extra repetitions, but other than Class 66 side numbers in EWS (that are a real pain) I havent had a problem on countless locos. If it proves really hard to shift after leaving it to soak I use a thumb nail to scrape it off (followed by a second coat again to shift the remainder) Funny enough it is the EWS tranfers we were using the Microsol on, but on a VBA wagon. Maybe it is the EWS transfers that are the pain, I think I will try the Mircosol again on a different wagon, I have a Transrail VGA to rebrand! so may try it again on that. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted November 28, 2009 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 28, 2009 Ohhh forgot that one, yes we tried the thinners on a there TTA, it did work but we were not happy with how it left the surface. I don't know if he used a cotton bud he may have used a cloth. Funny enough it is the EWS tranfers we were using the Microsol on, but on a VBA wagon. Maybe it is the EWS transfers that are the pain, I think I will try the Mircosol again on a different wagon, I have a Transrail VGA to rebrand! so may try it again on that. I havent used it on an EWS VBA, but did use it on a pair of Railfreight VAAs a brown VBA and a Railfreight VDA without issue. On wagons it does seem to be a bit tougher than on locos though, will sometimes apply and then after its soaked use the blunt side of a scalple to scrape it off. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 92912 Posted November 29, 2009 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 29, 2009 Hi, I normally use very fine (1200 grit) wet & dry folded up so I have a sharp corner to work with to remove numbers, nameplates etc off locos. With a bit of care it generally works ok. A normal pencil eraser helps to flatten off the shiny finish that is left. Cheers JP Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chivers Finelines Posted November 29, 2009 Author Share Posted November 29, 2009 I havent used it on an EWS VBA, but did use it on a pair of Railfreight VAAs a brown VBA and a Railfreight VDA without issue. On wagons it does seem to be a bit tougher than on locos though, will sometimes apply and then after its soaked use the blunt side of a scalple to scrape it off. Well I'm going to have another go on something not EWS!! see what happens. You wouldn't know how to remove the bodies of VAA/VBA/VDA?!?! Hi, I normally use very fine (1200 grit) wet & dry folded up so I have a sharp corner to work with to remove numbers, nameplates etc off locos. With a bit of care it generally works ok. A normal pencil eraser helps to flatten off the shiny finish that is left. Cheers JP I have just tried an eraser on the t-cut removed tranfers which is shiny, and it DOES flatten it!! How bizzare!! Thanks for that. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
40192 Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 Remove loco numbers with T'cut and a cocktail stick, or for bigger jobs use the wet &dry method, but use 1500 grade paper, which is usually available at all good car paint suppliers, as its used for flatting blemishes in car paintwork. Buy a few sheets for your bits box! Make sure you moisten the area or paper, to reduce friction, and lessen the chance of damaging underlying paintwork. Don't worry about the shiny bits, as you have to matt varnish the new numbers/decals etc to seal them on! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ragtag Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 If you root around with the search function you should find a discussion about using Modelstrip to renumber a Bachmann 66. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chivers Finelines Posted December 10, 2009 Author Share Posted December 10, 2009 If you root around with the search function you should find a discussion about using Modelstrip to renumber a Bachmann 66. Thanks for that, very useful. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinWales Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 I use a fibreglass pencil very very lightly applied to the area I want to renumber and it usually does the trick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry J Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 I use a cotton bud soaked in paint thinners or recetnly used cotton bud soaked in some left over cheap aftershave... my Bachy 150 is smelling great whilst it is being converted to Reg Rail/Scotrail version Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
47406 Posted December 19, 2009 Share Posted December 19, 2009 I've been reading this thread with interest as i'm sure many have... As a result of the thread I tried Fatadder's Microsol tip on a couple of bachy 37431s but it proved to be a long and arduous process. I targeted the numbers and logos with big dabs via a Q-tip, but they proved very recalcitrant, taking over half a dozen applications and some noticable elbow grease with the Q-tips. They did come off but with some appreciable effort but also with some very slight evidence of the process. I do have to note though that after the experiments they went into the brake fluid vat which seemed to shift the whole finish quicker than most models & paintjobs do. - just sharing my experience here, not intending to denigrate anyone... -dylan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunshine coast Posted December 19, 2009 Share Posted December 19, 2009 Just to clear up one point ,the markings are not transfers ,they are applied by a tampo print process Explanation.link.. and what you are trying to do,in removing them is dissolve very sophisticated types of inks ....without ruining the paint work ...so solvents will work best but it is always tricky trying to find one that will not eat the paint under.. Hope this helps ... Regards Trevor .... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
great-northern-2009 Posted December 20, 2009 Share Posted December 20, 2009 Nail varnish remover... my sisters not too happy about me constantly stealing it!! but if you brush some on, leave it to soak for around 30 seconds, then use a cotton bud soaked in remover, the numbers will come off no problem and if your careful you wont need to repaint the area before you re-number hope this helps? Ben Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinzaboy Posted December 20, 2009 Share Posted December 20, 2009 You can't beat the cocktail stick technique in my view. Done all my Bachmann diesels that way. Cut the end off a cocktail stick at an angle to make a chisel shape and simply work the chisel end over the numbers. They just flake off, and leave the paintwork underneath virtually unmarked. Good luck Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Endacott Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 I have just done several Bachmann Warships, Brush 4s and Peaks. The only tools I use are cotton buds and cocktail sticks. That way you should not damage the paintwork. Some transfers scrape off with a cocktail stick, but others need to be softened with paint thinners, sparingly applied by cotton bud. The most important thing is - take your time! Geoff Endacott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
'CHARD Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 Did four Brush Type 4s last night with the trailing edge of a Stanley blade followed by a pencil eraser. Perfectly satisfactory. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chivers Finelines Posted December 24, 2009 Author Share Posted December 24, 2009 Thanks for all the replies on this topic. My reply.... I've been reading this thread with interest as i'm sure many have... As a result of the thread I tried Fatadder's Microsol tip on a couple of bachy 37431s but it proved to be a long and arduous process. I targeted the numbers and logos with big dabs via a Q-tip, but they proved very recalcitrant, taking over half a dozen applications and some noticable elbow grease with the Q-tips. They did come off but with some appreciable effort but also with some very slight evidence of the process. -dylan Thats the problem I was having, they just took a while to shift especially these damm Bachmann EWS ones!! Just to clear up one point ,the markings are not transfers ,they are applied by a tampo print process Explanation.link.. and what you are trying to do,in removing them is dissolve very sophisticated types of inks ....without ruining the paint work ...so solvents will work best but it is always tricky trying to find one that will not eat the paint under.. Hope this helps ... Regards Trevor .... I was discussing this with my Dad when I bought the wagons. I only say Transfers as everyone knows what you mean, but this tampo process seems very effective. Nail varnish remover... my sisters not too happy about me constantly stealing it!! but if you brush some on, leave it to soak for around 30 seconds, then use a cotton bud soaked in remover, the numbers will come off no problem and if your careful you wont need to repaint the area before you re-number hope this helps? Ben I think I shall be buying some nail varnish remover to have a go, cheers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
edward66 Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 I notice a lot of references to "paint thinner", what type of paint thinner is being referred to, white spirit or more aggressive types like cellolose thinner? Edward Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
55017 Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 Just like Pinzaboy stated I have used cocktail stick on all my Bachmann diesels. Have tried with and without T-Cut and found just as good without.. Good tip regarding the use of a pencil eraser though.. Hoping to use the cocktail stick on a Hornby class 31 soon and hoping for same results as with Bachmann... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
unidan Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 I model in N but I have found that white spirit always works well on the Bachmann/farish locos. I use swan filter tips to work the transfers out. Modelstrip is good as well on br blue locos. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
55017 Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 This months Model Rail mag touches on this subject. There is a nice little piece regarding detailing CL47's which includes removing transfers/numbers with cocktail stick and t-cut.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackthorn Posted December 30, 2009 Share Posted December 30, 2009 The cocktail stick method really works! I just tried it on the BR late crest Terrier my girlfriend bought me for Christmas and it took just a few minutes. I have a couple of Fox early emblems soaking right now, once they're on and dry I can start weathering! Thanks to all who suggested that tip!!! Mark. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattingleycustom Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 Right, my brother and me have recently been exhausting the local model shop of the second hand items they have for grabs and 99% of it is in the wrong livery for our period or the same number, so we have decided to repaint some and re-number others, but I have never come across such transfers like Bachmann ones!! They just don't want to come off!! Now We have tried Mirco sol, all products and it takes it off soooooooo slowly it would take a week to do one! I am currently using metallic t-cut which I happen to have, but it does leave the surface shiny but does work rather quickly. My brother has used the back edge of a blade with success but we fear for the paint underneath!! He is currently playing with brake fluid on one - I don't like that idea! So my question is How do you guys remove your Bachmann transfers?, are there any products out there which will remove them quickly without making the surface shiny?!?! How do you, DO YOURS?!?!? Matt, Having renumbered one or two locos myself, I think I can give a constructive answer to your question. Some printed numbers/emblems are better applied than others, in the case of Bachmann the recent Class 45 diesel 'D95' and with most of their 9Fs the printed numbers practically fall off, however removing a BR emblem from a Stanier tender was more of a trial, so the ease of removal does vary considerably from model to model. I used to use white spirit and a cocktail stick, but it takes far too long and often damages the body colour underneath. However a few years ago I started using folded 1500 grade wet and dry paper and that does the trick more quickly and as long as you're careful/lucky, rarely damages the body colour underneath. Once the loco has been renumbered any apparent scratches will disappear under the layers of spray varnish used to seal the transfer. Glenn Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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