railwayrod Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 Hi Steve. There are two importers of DB stock in O gauge that I know about. One is A & H Models of Brackley, Northants who do Lenz and MBW The other is Mount Tabor Models of Matlock who do Brawa. I have dealt with both of these firms and have been a very satisfied customer in each case. I have also purxhased some stock direct from Germany from a firm called Modellbahnshop Lippe and here too I have been a very satisfied customer. All of these companies have a website so you need to enter their name in the seach box and Hey Presto you have their details. If you have any problems with accessing these please send me a PM and I will gladly give you more details. Rod Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 Have been busy this afternoon building a new bird table as our current one is too big and only attracts pigeons and crows. So a smaller one is on the work bench in the garage. At the same time I have been cutting out pieces for a programming track for my DB locos and these are about ready to be assembled. As I did not have a spare yard of Peco track I made one up using spare sleepers and two lengths of Peco rail. I will post a photo of this next time. In the meantime here are a couple of pictures of Ramchester and its fiddle yard full of lovely stock! Rod Rod, how I wish I had that amount of space, of which I you have made such excellent use. A really good layout, missing only signals to make it superb.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
55012 Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 Rod Thanks for the info, will now spend some time perusing the Internet Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cklammer Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 MSL has a branch here in Bremen ... three tram stops and 5 m walking from my residence. They are strongly marketing Märklin here in Germany. Best Regards, Christian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
railwayrod Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Thanks Chaz for your kind comments. Signals are the next thing on my list. As I had a little time yesterday I finished off the programming track and here are a couple of pictures showing the results of my efforts - seen here on my work bench. It consists of a strip of 9mm ply with a block of 50 x 50 mm wood screwed on at each end. A block of foam glued to the wood for safety reasons in case a loco rums away (unlikely - but better safe than sorry). Rod Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Rod, Before you start on your signals can I make a suggestion? Rather than build each signal on a flat plate base which can be difficult to disguise why not make them plug in? Signals are very vulnerable to damage and being able to remove them easily is a plus. If you are interested in the idea I can post details of how I do it. Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Rod, Before you start on your signals can I make a suggestion? Rather than build each signal on a flat plate base which can be difficult to disguise why not make them plug in? Signals are very vulnerable to damage and being able to remove them easily is a plus. If you are interested in the idea I can post details of how I do it. Chaz It's good advice Rod and easy to do with square tubing. I should done this with the signals on Cwm Bach. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
railwayrod Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Thank you Chaz and Chris for this very sound advice. It would be nice to have some guidance on how you do your signals so please do post something on this please. Thanks again. Chaz I am lucky in that I have a 30ft x 12ft fully insulated shed in which to work. It took a bit of hard work trying to convince Maggie that I needed somewhere bigger than the garage in which to build my layout but what clinched it was the fact that she became very involved in sugarcraft and wanted to have somewhere to work other than the dining room table. So we converted my office bedroom 3 into a sugar room which meant that I had nowhere to keep my ever growing collection of railway books. So the shed was born. Great stuff. Will post a picture next time. Rod Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Thanks Chaz for your kind comments. Signals are the next thing on my list. As I had a little time yesterday I finished off the programming track and here are a couple of pictures showing the results of my efforts - seen here on my work bench. It consists of a strip of 9mm ply with a block of 50 x 50 mm wood screwed on at each end. A block of foam glued to the wood for safety reasons in case a loco rums away (unlikely - but better safe than sorry). Rod Hi Rod, May I make a suggestion? Start with a brew first, helps the creative juices Kindest, CME 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Thank you Chaz and Chris for this very sound advice. It would be nice to have some guidance on how you do your signals so please do post something on this please. Thanks again. Chaz I am lucky in that I have a 30ft x 12ft fully insulated shed in which to work. It took a bit of hard work trying to convince Maggie that I needed somewhere bigger than the garage in which to build my layout but what clinched it was the fact that she became very involved in sugarcraft and wanted to have somewhere to work other than the dining room table. So we converted my office ###### bedroom 3 into a sugar room which meant that I had nowhere to keep my ever growing collection of railway books. So the shed was born. Great stuff. Will post a picture next time. Rod Rod, Here are three links to my Cwm Bach blog showing the signals and also a YouTube video showing one of them in action. The signals are fitted to bases made from double-sided pcb. The operating cranks are mounted on a bracket from brass strip. The base is pinned to the board over a rectangular hole. If I were starting again I would make the signals removable through an arrangement of telescoped, square brass tubing. In the fulness of time, I may attempt a retrospective conversion, but it's not a priority as Cwm Bach, while transportable, isn't really intended to leave home. The signals are operated with Peco servos, which I think are good value for money and very easy to install and programme. I enjoy building semaphore signals. Whatever you do, do it well and make sure they work. For me, working semaphore signals are a sine qua non and are the difference between a model of a railway and a train set. Regards, Chris PS It's worth looking at John Fitness's forum. He builds model signals for a living and very good they are indeed. Post 118 http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/80426-cwm-bach-a-south-wales-branch-line/page-5 Post 294 http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/80426-cwm-bach-a-south-wales-branch-line/page-12 Post 302 http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/80426-cwm-bach-a-south-wales-branch-line/page-13 YouTube video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CV-PNgknYQY Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 If I were starting again I would make the signals removable through an arrangement of telescoped, square brass tubing.... Regards, Chris Quite so Chris. Most of the signals I have made have telescopic brass tubing as a base. I will post a few snaps later today which may be some help. "...working semaphore signals are a sine qua non and are the difference between a model of a railway and a train set." Yes. Three things that spoil a model railway for me. No signals Signals - but non-working Working signals - but the operator doesn't bother to work them I could also add signals that are placed incorrectly but that might seem a bit harsh.... Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Boucher Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Chaz I am lucky in that I have a 30ft x 12ft fully insulated shed in which to work. It took a bit of hard work trying to convince Maggie that I needed somewhere bigger than the garage in which to build my layout but what clinched it was the fact that she became very involved in sugarcraft and wanted to have somewhere to work other than the dining room table. So we converted my office ###### bedroom 3 into a sugar room which meant that I had nowhere to keep my ever growing collection of railway books. So the shed was born. Great stuff. Will post a picture next time. Where's that "jealous" button? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
railwayrod Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Thanks for the links Chris I have looked at your signals and they are really good. I will look at the You tube link tonight. However I doubt that I have the visual ability to construct these myself so may have to bite the bullet and have them made for me. We will see. Rod Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 (edited) The only signal on Dock Green, protecting the exit from the yard. It should probably be a ground disc or an LNER miniature shunt arm but I had a somersault from my dismantled layout and wanted to use it. Rule One applies. The bottom of the post is very neat with only a square a little bigger than the cross-section on the post showing base of the signal post square plate soldered to post square hole in plate to accept square tube - soldered in place drive wire through tube Conversion of a Tortoise to drive a signal.... Tortoise yoke removed and a PCB plate slid in pivotted arm driven by motor output arm could have a row of holes so the throw can be chosen to suit the signal's needs arrangement under baseboard Square tube soldered into plate - next size up from the tube on the signal base - it doesn't project above the baseboard surface plate screwed to underside of baseboard top Tortoise on its side fixed to bracket signal lowered into socket and plumb-bob on operating wire guided into bell-ended (sorry!) tube Those snaps were taken before the wires were shortened. Metal connector (out of a terminal block) allows adustment to be made I arrange the drive to push the signal to the off position - the balance weight and the weight of the operating wire hold the two halves of the coupling together Hope that's helpful Chaz Edited July 29, 2015 by chaz 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
railwayrod Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Hello Craig. In an earlier post you were enquiring about the arrangement of points in the fiddle yard.As you will see in my recent post the pointwork is fairly clear and fan out to eight sidings with two kicking back from siding eight. The width of the baseboard is 82cms at its widest and there is enough room to get one's fingers in between tracks when required. The track centres are roughly 100cm apart - I say roughly as the arrangement of points means that to get a nice flow the track centres vary a bit. I do however have to have a stool to reach the rear tracks as the baseboard is set quite high. Hope this is useful to you. Rod Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Thanks for the links Chris I have looked at your signals and they are really good. I will look at the You tube link tonight. However I doubt that I have the visual ability to construct these myself so may have to bite the bullet and have them made for me. We will see. Rod If it's your vision that's stopping you you might try what I have for fine work - a pair of over-powerful readers and an illuminated magnifier. Works for me. Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
railwayrod Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Thanks Chaz for the signal post which I found very interesting and informative. For most of my modelling I have to use a very powerful hyper ocular with the left ey frosted over. The lens in front of the right eye is of 28 dioptre strength which means that the focal length i.e.the distance from the work to the eye, is about 1½ inches for the work to be in focus. Soldering at this sort of distance is, to say the least, hazardous but as I have been doing this for well over 60 years I have learnt to be very, very careful. Howard always accused me of soldering with my nose!!! lol. You may or may not be aware that the bigger the magnifier the weaker it is which means that for me to get the sort of power I need the lens has to be fairly small. For reading I use a 20 dioptre lens which is about 50mm in diameter and to get any sort of a decent field of view it is necessary to hold the magnifier against the eye and bring the paper, book, etc up to about 50mm away from the eye. Good lighting is also essential but to get the light into this limited space is a challenge. My central vision is extremely poor so even when reading this way it is necessary to adopt a different method of reading which I will not go into just now but will do so if anyone is interested. Well enough of the lecture, as promised here is a picture of my shed which Maggie and I have christened "Platform 2". I have also included a photo of one of my tool racks which started life as a magnetic knife holder from the local kitchen shop. Rod 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Rod, it goes without saying that when I suggested reading glasses and a magnifier I was unaware of your vision problems. All I can say is how well you have managed in spite of them! Many modellers with 20/20 will envy your results. On the subject of signals if I can help with any other advice etc let me know. Chaz 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted July 30, 2015 Share Posted July 30, 2015 Thanks Chaz for the signal post which I found very interesting and informative. For most of my modelling I have to use a very powerful hyper ocular with the left ey frosted over. The lens in front of the right eye is of 28 dioptre strength which means that the focal length i.e.the distance from the work to the eye, is about 1½ inches for the work to be in focus. Soldering at this sort of distance is, to say the least, hazardous but as I have been doing this for well over 60 years I have learnt to be very, very careful. Howard always accused me of soldering with my nose!!! lol. You may or may not be aware that the bigger the magnifier the weaker it is which means that for me to get the sort of power I need the lens has to be fairly small. For reading I use a 20 dioptre lens which is about 50mm in diameter and to get any sort of a decent field of view it is necessary to hold the magnifier against the eye and bring the paper, book, etc up to about 50mm away from the eye. Good lighting is also essential but to get the light into this limited space is a challenge. My central vision is extremely poor so even when reading this way it is necessary to adopt a different method of reading which I will not go into just now but will do so if anyone is interested. Well enough of the lecture, as promised here is a picture of my shed which Maggie and I have christened "Platform 2". I have also included a photo of one of my tool racks which started life as a magnetic knife holder from the local kitchen shop. Rod Rod, Yours and Howard's work is superb and I have the utmost admiration for what you do and how you do it - just superb. Kindest regards, CME Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
railwayrod Posted July 30, 2015 Share Posted July 30, 2015 No progress to report today as Maggie and I have been busy doing other things. However I have taken delivery of my next DB loco but have not had time to photograph it yet. Will post a picture over the weekend. Rod 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
railwayrod Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 Hello Everyone. We have just got back from a short break in Sidmouth and went to see a show as part of the annual Sidmouth Folk Festival. We saw "Port Issacs Fishermans Friends" a fabulous group of singers who do mainly sea shanties. Great stuff and a sell out concert. As a result I have done nothing on Ramchester for a few days but as promised here are a couple of pictures of my latest loco. A DB class V160 Bo-Bo diesel complete with full DCC sound etc. Lovely job too. Rod 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
railwayrod Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 Had a short session this afternoon during which Howard and I tried out my new DB class V160 loco with my ZTC 511 controller. This behaved itself very well as you would expect from a German specified model. My DB class 64 tank loco also runs well on this system so on the whole I am pleased. However we cannot get a peep out of my DB class V100 diesel and are at a total loss as to why. Lenz locos are very good quality and highly specified but this is unresponsive to anything. I am going to pose a question on the DCC site of RMweb to see if anyone had any ideas. I will also contact the importer to see what he says. More anon. Rod Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 Rod Don't know if this helps but last year I got the Lenz USB interface - it refused entirely to talk to any decoders other than Lenz, when using the Lenz -supplied software. I loaded JMRI, and it works perfectly. I don't know whether (and I doubt, but maybe worth checking) there is some kind of "lock" that somehow requires you use the right type of DCC kit with a given component. I would note also that the ZTC equipment is (or at least, was) not NMRA compliant, I think they said it was "compatible". My recommendation would be to try the loco on a Lenz system, and if it behaves, look into the manuals. It may be possible to lock it to a given system. It may, for example, be set to Marklin protocol. Hoping you sort it easily Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 PS It's worth looking at John Fitness's forum. He builds model signals for a living...... Ooooh I wish! I'm still working as a signalman and have to fit them in between shifts (although I do sneak a bit of work on them during quiet periods on nightshift!). Just had a bit of a re-cap through this thread and it's been really nice to see the layout coming to life with all the details. Can't believe I got to page 34 before I found a track diagram!! All the best JF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
railwayrod Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 Thanks CME for your valued praise, it is appreciated. Welcome Jon Fitness to this thread which I hope you have enjoyed. I will be in touch shortly re signals. The reason for a lack of a track diagram prior to page 34 was that I did not know hoe to post it! Rod Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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