O Gauge Auto Couplings

[railwayrod]

Hello Ruston.

 

I like your solution which would work for some people but as stated on this thread before  folks like me do not have the eyesight to put links over hooks between wagons. I have stuck with the Bachmann 00 gauge couplings now for several years and have had virtually no trouble with them. So until someone invents an automatic 3 link coupling that is where I will stay.

 

Rod

Edited November 17, 2016 by railwayrod

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hello Ruston.

 

I like your dolution which would work for some people but as stated on this thread before  folks ike me do not have the eyesight to put links over hooks between wagons. I have stuck with the Bachmann 00 gauge couplings now for several years and have had virtuall no trouble with them. So until someone invents an automatic 3 linkcoupling that is where I will stay.

 

Rod

Hi Rod,

 

I dont have the eyesight challenges that you have, although my health has affected my vision, so like you I use TLs. (your help and ideas have been invaluable) and I shall use fixed track magnets for auto uncoupling and I already use a small piece of metal in the TLs hook and a chopstick with a small magnet on the end so as to lift the TL hook. Also health issues come into play, for me, with 3 links so TLs are better in that regard too and dont look too bad in 7mm.

 

Apologies if I have duplicated the above info, but hope that it may be of help to others.

 

ATVB

 

CME

[Guest Isambarduk]

"I made one [magnetic shunters pole] and have another, which I believe is available from the HMRS."

 

Yes, a friend and I have been making magnetic shunters poles and I did have them on the HMRS stand at G0G Doncaster and G0G Telford.  They are not HMRS products, per se, we just wished to share the success of our device with other modellers - there is a bit more to it than a magnet on a wire, the steel shield is all important in its effectiveness.  Yes, you need to have a steel lower link on one of the vehicles, at least.

 

If anybody is interested in them (particularly in making them available for sale) please PM me.

 

David

[robertc]

With my dodgy eyesight and very shaky hands I find 3 links a bit of a pain. My modelling era means I have both loose couped and auto coupled stock to consider.

For most vehicles I use O scale Kadees. I cut the glad hand off and operate them with a kebab stick or similar. The removal of the glad hand improves their look out of sight to me and obviously to many others who do the same modification. 

It's a pity that Kadee does not do a longer shank version of their S scale coupler. It is very unobtrusive on 7mm stock and has enough gathering area to be reliable on my outdoor line.

If I didn't have access to Kadees I guess I would use the narrow Bachmann tension links.

cheers

Bob

Edited February 28, 2019 by robertc
correction

[81A Oldoak]

"I made one [magnetic shunters pole] and have another, which I believe is available from the HMRS."

 

Yes, a friend and I have been making magnetic shunters poles and I did have them on the HMRS stand at G0G Doncaster and G0G Telford.  They are not HMRS products, per se, we just wished to share the success of our device with other modellers - there is a bit more to it than a magnet on a wire, the steel shield is all important in its effectiveness.  Yes, you need to have a steel lower link on one of the vehicles, at least.

 

If anybody is interested in them (particularly in making them available for sale) please PM me.

 

David

I possess one and it is a very effective device.

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Are there any photos of the aforementioned HMRS shunter's poles?

[Happy Hippo]

I've received some of the Lincs autocouplers yesterday.

 

I'll have to get a move on and get them fitted to some wagons and report back.

[Guest Isambarduk]

"Are there any photos of the aforementioned HMRS shunter's poles?"

 

Possibly, but I shall take one for you and post it here - I am out 'playing trains' today so it may have to wait until tomorrow when I am back in the workshop.  Just to clarify: they are not really HMRS shunters poles - we haven't actually given them a name, perhaps we should!

 

David

[Dava]

"I made one [magnetic shunters pole] and have another, which I believe is available from the HMRS."

 

Yes, a friend and I have been making magnetic shunters poles and I did have them on the HMRS stand at G0G Doncaster and G0G Telford.  They are not HMRS products, per se, we just wished to share the success of our device with other modellers - there is a bit more to it than a magnet on a wire, the steel shield is all important in its effectiveness.  Yes, you need to have a steel lower link on one of the vehicles, at least.

 

If anybody is interested in them (particularly in making them available for sale) please PM me.

 

David[/quote

 

Product endorsement: the pole works very well, suitable for exhibition & home use!

 

Dava

[jamie92208]

"Are there any photos of the aforementioned HMRS shunter's poles?"

 

Possibly, but I shall take one for you and post it here - I am out 'playing trains' today so it may have to wait until tomorrow when I am back in the workshop.  Just to clarify: they are not really HMRS shunters poles - we haven't actually given them a name, perhaps we should!

 

David

 

Hi David,  If you are at Warley I would be very interested in buying one of these off you.

 

Jamie

[Guest Isambarduk]

Jamie, Hi,
 
Sorry, I avoid the Warley show these days - the HMRS exhibition manager emailed me in October to say "David, I have a ticket for Warley with your name on it." to which I replied "Well please cross it out and write in somebody else's!"  I have helped out there several times but, as I am a 7mm only modeller, the three Guild shows plus Bristol are more than sufficient for me.
 
Others have asked if I could post one, so that's a possibility.
 
For CME and BW, here is a photo of one that I took earlier this evening:
 

 

As you may see, it is a tiny shielded magnet on the end of a wire support that is attached to a pen-torch (two AAA batteries, not included).

 

I hope this answers it up to date, but I'm happy to answer questions.

 

David

[Simond]

David,

 

Thanks for posting that.

 

Forgive me if I'm being dim, but where is the shielding?

 

Is it circumferential, and if so, all the way around? How deep is the magnet within the tube?

 

Thanks

Simon

[Guest Isambarduk]

"Forgive me if I'm being dim, but where is the shielding?

Is it circumferential, and if so, all the way around? How deep is the magnet within the tube?"

 

Ah, trade secrets, Simon; you'll have to buy one to find out!

 

The disc magnet is set its full thickness within a steel cup, so the magnet is effectively surrounded except for the exposed magnetic pole on one face. The cup brings the magnetic pole at the torch end round to be with the other pole at the business end, keeping the magnetic flux where it is needed, so it doesn't take on a mind of its own and grab a buffer, draw hook or anything else.  It also concentrates the flux to make the small magnet effectively more powerful.

 

Does this answer it?

 

David

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Jamie, Hi,

 

Sorry, I avoid the Warley show these days - the HMRS exhibition manager emailed me in October to say "David, I have a ticket for Warley with your name on it." to which I replied "Well please cross it out and write in somebody else's!"  I have helped out there several times but, as I am a 7mm only modeller, the three Guild shows plus Bristol are more than sufficient for me.

 

Others have asked if I could post one, so that's a possibility.

 

For CME and BW, here is a photo of one that I took earlier this evening:

 

MagneticShuntersPole.JPG

 

As you may see, it is a tiny shielded magnet on the end of a wire support that is attached to a pen-torch (two AAA batteries, not included).

 

I hope this answers it up to date, but I'm happy to answer questions.

 

David

 

 

"Forgive me if I'm being dim, but where is the shielding?

 

Is it circumferential, and if so, all the way around? How deep is the magnet within the tube?"

 

Ah, trade secrets, Simon; you'll have to buy one to find out!

 

The disc magnet is set its full thickness within a steel cup, so the magnet is effectively surrounded except for the exposed magnetic pole on one face. The cup brings the magnetic pole at the torch end round to be with the other pole at the business end, keeping the magnetic flux where it is needed, so it doesn't take on a mind of its own and grab a buffer, draw hook or anything else.  It also concentrates the flux to make the small magnet effectively more powerful.

 

Does this answer it?

 

David

Thanks David, can anyone order from HMRS?

 

I was wondering if a similar device could be made but with a flexi-joint or shaft to allow access to awkward to get at places - I did look at some Pound shop type tools but they were all a bit HD!

[Guest Isambarduk]

"... can anyone order from HMRS?"

 

I will ask the HMRS exhibition manager if he would be willing to sell them at shows that he attends and I can also ask him if the HMRS would be interested in offering them mail order (but it seems unlikely to me).  He is away this week and then tied up with Warley but I'll phone him next week and report back.

 

David

[CME and Bottlewasher]

"... can anyone order from HMRS?"

 

I will ask the HMRS exhibition manager if he would be willing to sell them at shows that he attends and I can also ask him if the HMRS would be interested in offering them mail order (but it seems unlikely to me).  He is away this week and then tied up with Warley but I'll phone him next week and report back.

 

David

Thanks David.....so essentially they are for HMRS members then?

[Guest Isambarduk]

"... so essentially they are for HMRS members then?"

 

No, not at all!  As I wrote in post # 228:

 

"... a friend and I have been making magnetic shunters poles and I did have them on the HMRS stand at G0G Doncaster and G0G Telford.  They are not HMRS products, per se, we just wished to share the success of our device with other modellers ..." 

 

So, I had them on the HMRS stand whilst I was helping there at the G0G shows as I have done for many years; other than at shows, I am not involved with HMRS activities. 

 

Anyone may have one, it's just a matter of setting up a supply chain now.  My next scheduled G0G show to help on the HMRS stand is Kettering on the 4th March but I'm hoping also to be at the Bristol show on January 22nd.

 

David

Edited November 21, 2016 by Isambarduk

[CME and Bottlewasher]

"... so essentially they are for HMRS members then?"

 

No, not at all!  As I wrote in post # 228:

 

"... a friend and I have been making magnetic shunters poles and I did have them on the HMRS stand at G0G Doncaster and G0G Telford.  They are not HMRS products, per se, we just wished to share the success of our device with other modellers ..." 

 

So, I had them on the HMRS stand whilst I was helping there at the G0G shows as I have done for many years; other than at shows, I am not involved with HMRS activities. 

 

Anyone may have one, it's just a matter of setting up a supply chain now.  My next scheduled G0G show to help on the HMRS stand is Kettering on the 4th March but I'm hoping also to be at the Bristol show on January 22nd.

 

David

I catch your drift now David.

 

I would be interested in 1-3....if that helps with levels of expressed interest, I would be interested in developing a flexi version too.

 

ATVB with thanks,

 

CME

[orford]

Just going back for a while to the use of 'OO' couplings adapted for magnetic operation on 'O-gauge' stock, here is a short video of some trials I recently carried out. They operate very successfully, although I have still not found the best magnets to use.

 

I am trialling these as I have encountered an unexpected problem with Lincs couplings which was not evident when I originally used them with great success years ago ...............these days I am into 'industrial' O gauge, rather then 'main-line' and this means short wheelbase locos with long overhangs at the ends, together with silly-radius curves (a tad less than 3 feet in some areas).  I am finding that Lincs Auto's don't work under these circumstances due to the swing out of the end of the locos which simply swings the hook completely out from behind the hook of the towed vehicle. Something I didn't anticipate (although to be fair, Richard Syms does quote a minimum radius, which I should have taken more notice of).

 

But I am quite liking these things so far  (please ignore the three-link/Dingham lash-up twixt loco and first wagon. This is merely to illustrate the coupling/uncoupling between the two wagons).  On the first run, no uncoupling is wanted. This works fine. On the second run, the uncoupling acrtion is shown, etc., etc.  So far they are proving 100% reliable.  

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qB9L0j_iY24&feature=youtu.be

 

- Don

Edited November 22, 2016 by orford

[Guest Isambarduk]

"I would be interested in 1-3....if that helps with levels of expressed interest ..."

 

I have sent you a PM, CME.   David

[Barnaby]

I'm doing something the same Don using 00 TL's and as you say they are very reliable.

You mention about the magnets I use a small shirt button "Rare Earth" type of magnet which I posted about on here previously when I was going to use the Lincs coupling.

 Oooops Just went back to have a look and I can see you have read my post and did get some.

 

Mine are circular and just fit between my 0gauge track sleepers.  I mount mine straight off the baseboard just as I have the track and they work every time.  You could stack them to double the pull but if I do that they try to hold the passing wagon axle when running slow.

My other difference is I use 2 links [3 links are too long] instead of a rod with the bottom link the magnetic one.  The top link is soldered to the hook while the bottom one is free to move.

 

I have some more details on my webby.

 

Best

EDIT  Actually I told some porkies above when describing my 2-links.  I actually have a small piece of paperclip soldered to the tab of the hook. The unsoldered end I have bent into an eye shape which the top link can swivel in and the magnetic link is then connected to that and is also free to move.  When they near the magnet they swivel towards it causing the hook to pivot and raise up.

That's the way I do it.

Edited November 24, 2016 by Barnaby

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Just going back for a while to the use of 'OO' couplings adapted for magnetic operation on 'O-gauge' stock, here is a short video of some trials I recently carried out. They operate very successfully, although I have still not found the best magnets to use.

 

I am trialling these as I have encountered an unexpected problem with Lincs couplings which was not evident when I originally used them with great success years ago ...............these days I am into 'industrial' O gauge, rather then 'main-line' and this means short wheelbase locos with long overhangs at the ends, together with silly-radius curves (a tad less than 3 feet in some areas).  I am finding that Lincs Auto's don't work under these circumstances due to the swing out of the end of the locos which simply swings the hook completely out from behind the hook of the towed vehicle. Something I didn't anticipate (although to be fair, Richard Syms does quote a minimum radius, which I should have taken more notice of).

 

But I am quite liking these things so far  (please ignore the three-link/Dingham lash-up twixt loco and first wagon. This is merely to illustrate the coupling/uncoupling between the two wagons).  On the first run, no uncoupling is wanted. This works fine. On the second run, the uncoupling acrtion is shown, etc., etc.  So far they are proving 100% reliable.  

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qB9L0j_iY24&feature=youtu.be

 

- Don

Nice Don, the droppers look to be very neat too, have you any close up photos? I want to be able to use strategically placed RE track magnets and then, by adding a minute piece of metal (ie from a staple) to the tip of the hook, uncouple in random places (I am not yet sure how RE magnets in the track will affect the magnetic coach couplings that I will be using for most of my coaching stock), using a magnet on the end of a chopstick or one of David's devices - the very best of all worlds then? I have been struggling to make my droppers look as neat as yours though...

 

"I would be interested in 1-3....if that helps with levels of expressed interest ..."

 

I have sent you a PM, CME.   David

....Thanks David, just about to look now.

 

ATVB

 

CME

Edited November 23, 2016 by CME and Bottlewasher

[Barnaby]

CME you mention Don's droppers and how nice you thought they looked.  I've not tried this but what about using a split pin?  One suitable for attracting to a magnet of course. 

[orford]

CME and Mark, etc:   I've developed it much more since that video was shot............that was really just an early experimental thing. It's much improved now..

 

The couplers are now mounted lower, under the buffer beam, which allows the retention of the original O gauge 'hooks' above (although not the links), so that wagons not fitted with auto couplers can still be coupled in the train using their three-links if required. On the video the new couplers were just temporarily stuffed into the wagons original coupling slots.

 

Also on the video I was using TWO rectangular magnets at each uncoupling location lying across the rails either side of a sleeper, which gave some strange behaviour - but have now settled for a single rectangular magnet (thanks Mark, for the source, some time back, by the way). This is mounted length-wise between the rails and along the same direction of the track, necessitating the bridging of one sleeper via a slice cut out of the centre of that sleeper. When all is ballasted over with grit, weeds, etc., it doesn't show that the magnet passes right through a sleeper!

 

CME, the drop-links are formed from Lincs Auto Coupling steel wire (after all I had plenty of it) and they are just bent to a simple 'L' shape 12.7mm (1/2 inch) by 10mm. The longer side is soldered to the bottom of the tension lock's own dropper, reaching back under the wagon and the shorter 10mm leg forms the new vertical magnetic dropper.

 

I will post some close ups (and do a new up to date video) tomorrow, which should make all that clear.

 

Since finalising the design and geometry, I have found them to be 100% reliable.  I have not yet had a coupling or uncoupling failure and I have not yet had a single instance of 'unwanted' uncoupling.  As a result, the decision has now been taken to use these on both 'Cratchett's Yard' (an exhibition layout being built jointly with a friend) and on 'The Brickworks', which will be my own next layout.

 

- Don

[orford]

Showing coupler as described above mounted immediately below buffer beam.

 

Incidentally, these have been tested from a running point of view down to 30" radius and will happily 'couple up' and 'uncouple' on 36" radius curves.  The head of the original TL's 'loop' is positioned about 1-2mm ahead of the buffer faces (it's not critical but this gives a fairly prototypical spacing between two vehicles). This distance could be reduced slightly for 48" radius curves or greater, or increased slightly for less than 30" radius ....but then most O gauge locos won't look at that, so that's pretty academic. We do have some 36" radius minimum curves on 'Cratchett's Yard' and this dimension is fine for our purposes.

 

I'll do a new video tomorrow showing the final designin operation.