Cathkin Park Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 As the title heading suggests, I plan to have a go at building this 3mm scale version kit, over the coming weeks. Designed by Michael Edge and available direct from Judith Edge Kits or Finney & Smith, The Barclay 0-4-0 diesel mechanical shunter, better known to many as a BR class 06 shunter, was first introduced in 1958 for the Scottish region and lasted in revenue service with British Rail until 1981. 06003 was renumbered 97803 and transferred to the Western region being used in departmental use at Reading. Although I'm more used to working in other scales, I have been collecting 3mm items for a few years, but have never got any further than making the 3mm society wagon kits. So knowing I have built this kit in 4mm before, I thought it would be a good opportunity to start here with something I new as my first 3mm kit, The kit includes: Three sheets of etched parts, which i presume are scaled down from the 4mm version. A bag of resin casting. Some brass wire. A bag of other parts, including wheel bearings, nuts & bolts and brass horns. Also a jackshaft axle which is for 12mm gauge, but for those modelling in 14.2mm, a replacement is available from Judith Edge by return post. and finally what I find, an easy to follow five page set of instructions including some GA drawings. Other items required not supplied in the kit are, buffers, wheels, motor, gearbox and the usual paint, transfers and tools to do the job. The buffers I will probably look at what's available from the 3mm society, whilst the wheels and axles I'll be using, are finescale 14,2mm gauge, again available through the 3mm society. The gearbox is the High Level Kits, "Slimliner Compact +" with a ratio of 54:1, (which hopefully will be slow enough for what i want) and at present a Mashima 1015 motor, but I am hoping to fit a Mashima 1020, but this is all dependent on weather I can shoehorn it in. Both the motor and gearbox are again available from Finney & Smith, So will hopefully update on some progress over the coming days. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 It will be interesting to see how this compares to the 4mm version - I always have some reservations with scaled down kits though have to admit primarily from those taken down from 7mm to 4mm. But these problems are usually to do with drawn etches rather than fine CAD reproductions. I assume that as you already have the 14.2mm axle as in the photo that is the uncompromised gauge you are building in? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cathkin Park Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 It will be interesting to see how this compares to the 4mm version - I always have some reservations with scaled down kits though have to admit primarily from those taken down from 7mm to 4mm. But these problems are usually to do with drawn etches rather than fine CAD reproductions. I assume that as you already have the 14.2mm axle as in the photo that is the uncompromised gauge you are building in? I think Michael Edge probably does a bit of work in making sure these kits scale up or down, but I know what you mean about etches been re-scaled and not fitting, been their a few times. Hopefully this kit doesn't see too many problems, hope to also have a 7mm version one day to sit next to my solitary Heljan class 26. The jackshaft axle is indeed the 14.2mm version. Also a service is available through one of the members of the 3mm society, to press square holes in the wheels and replacement axles, very much like the Romford design of self quartering, something I may take up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted January 20, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 20, 2012 I built the 4mm version a few years ago. The brackets that fix to the running plate to locate the doors were a bit fiddly. Otherwise, nice to build - as are all Edge kits that I've done - about a dozen or so, with another 3 to do sometime..... I don't know how much you know about 06's, but watch out for variations of cab - 2 or 3 windows - both are in the kit - and postioning of the ladder for the bonnet and fuel tank. Enjoy the build - keep us posted with the progress. Cheers, Mick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted January 21, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 21, 2012 The brackets that fix to the running plate to locate the doors were a bit fiddly. The perfect job for an RSU Mick, I've seen the light! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Katier Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Good luck with this, my first kit (unfinished due to no wheels presently - not had time to order them) was a J79 which, despite being a shot-down 7mm kit, went together well. I left off the fiddly stuff ( brake gear etc. ) but mainly only because it was my first kit. Needed a bit of fettling for the motor but other than that went together just fine. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mog Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 interested to watch this progress..these kits do like nice. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cathkin Park Posted February 4, 2012 Author Share Posted February 4, 2012 An update on my progress. The first job is to build the chassis frames and check everything is sitting square. At the moment I have fixed all the bearings, but the centre ones (rear driving wheels) will be removed, as i plan to use the compensation set up, that comes with the kit. Once the frames are built the next job is the footplate, the buffer beams are made up of five etches laminated together, I found the best way to do this was to tin each part while they were on the fret, then sweat each one individually together , making sure they are all square with each other until all five are as one. Alternatively you could clamp all five together (a wooden clothes peg is ideal for this) and then just run solder around the edges. The footplate angle and steps have been fitted, with a couple of detail parts that are ready to fit, but which I will add later. The next job is the cab which is built around a base plate, that bolts to the footplate and chassis. Before building the cab bolt the baseplate, footplate and chassis together, this will keep everything square when building the cab. The instructions say to apply some grease between the plates to stop solder seeping through and joining the two together, which is a very sensible idea, but I prefer to use a piece of greaseproof paper from the kitchen. Also run some oil over the bolts, otherwise you could end up with them soldered inside the nuts, which wont help at all. All this is explained in the step by step instructions. A bit more work required to finish the cab, then I can turn my thoughts to starting the bonnet. The parts have been bolted together and unbolted several times, so I could rinse them under the tap and clean up any imperfections. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Katier Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 54:1 plus 1015 should give a scale 35-40mph max and get you down to a silly slow crawl. Make sure you test fit the gearbox/motor before you get much further, probably will be less of an issue with this kit as the hole in the footplate looks generous but certainly 7mm to 3mm shot down kits require fettling to fit the motor/gearbox combination. As I say in this kit, I 'think' you'll be ok - but I'd definitely recommend test fitting at this stage. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted February 5, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 5, 2012 If you laminate the buffer beams by running solder round the edges (as it says in the instructions) and then try to take them apart again you will be amazed just how far the solder has gone through the gap. I wouldn't recommend doing this, it's incredibly difficult, unless you have made a mess of the alignment. Grease or wax work perfectly well to stop the solder spreading where you don't want it to, the snag with using paper is its thickness, the screws will compress it and leave the lower surface of the cab/casing less than flat which is the object of the exercise in the first place. It does seem to be looking good so far, one reason I am following this is that I haven't actually built a 3mm 06 yet. I don't worry too much about this as the metal thickness reduction for 3mm scale is almost in proportion to the scale reduction from 4mm. The only way to tell the difference between photographs of 3mm and 4mm kit built locos is to look at the axle ends which look greatly overscale in 3mm. Michael Edge Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Katier Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 I've found a pretty good way of delaminating poor laminations. I use a 'cooker' igniter gas flame ( or a ciggy lighter would do) which applies heat in a controllable enough way to delaminate without annealing. Very messy though as of course the laminations have solder all over them!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium t-b-g Posted February 5, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 5, 2012 My method of assembling such things is to make use of chemical blackening. If you blacken the bolts you can solder away as often as you like and you won't solder them up solid. Likewise, the bottom or top surface of the footplate/bonnet floor can be blackened to stop them soldering together. It is also highly effective in assembling valve gear and when polished up, even brass bits look like polished steel. Grease and wax need a bit of cleaning off after assembly, whereas the chemical blackening is applied before assembly and needs no cleaning afterwards, which I prefer but it is a matter of personal choice as both methods do the job! That is looking very nice. I have had the pleasure of building a few of Mike's kits up and they have always been an absolute joy to put together. It makes a nice change to pick up a part for a kit and find that it actually fits without needing to be aletered in any way and Mike's kits are the best I have done in respect of that. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 Boot polish (I believe that is what is in the little jar of solder stop sold by a well respected "soldering aide" supplier) anyway seems to work and removed by IPA. I must admit I like t-b-g's idea of pre-blackening the parts, I must give it a go, especially with the nuts and bolts. BTW using a blow torch (micro-burner) certainly does work when disassembling kits (including laminates) however annealing of the metal occurs at a much lower temperature than you might suspect. Though this is only a real problem with parts that have structural importance - chassis frames and spacers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Robert Shrives Posted July 9, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 9, 2012 Hi any updates - I have an 05 kit that I have been looking over and looks like the same gear box motor choice and I guess wheels so wondering how the combo worked? Lovely work in the pictures.. Thanks in advance Robert Shrives Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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