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Upbech St Mary, Upbech Drove and Pott Row a journey through 00 and then into EM and 009.


mullie
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Progress on the railbus inevitably slowed over Christmas. As the garage is too cold today progress has resumed. I've currently de camped to my office space which is actually the third floor landing, it is a large space and gives me access to my CD and vinyl collection.

 

Heljan spares are now managed by Gaugemaster, who once contacted very quickly provided a new set of drop in axles free of charge obviously 00 gauge.

 

This has not been a straightforward conversion even though I thought it might be, quite frustrating at times. The EM Society information sheet made it seem easy but included some interesting comments. It refers to the wheels grinding against the sides, removing the paint and potential for a short. I didn't want that to happen so opened out the slots with the Dremel.

 

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The Gibson axles are very slightly thicker than the Heljan axles so didn't run smoothly in the axle slots. Therefore the Gibson wheels run on Heljan axles, initially the Gibson wheels wouldn't stay glued so I did put the Heljan wheels back, not happy with the look I persevered with the Gibsons and it now seems to run fine.

 

One axle ran smoothly straight away but the main gear on the second axle kept riding up and jamming, I wonder if the previous owner had filed down the retaining guides. A tiny pice of foam  on each end of the axle has cured that so all four wheels now drive and it is seen here working this afternoon. This thing weighs a ton, why does something that will never pull a load need to be so heavy, no wonder it has gear problems. I did look to see if weight can be removed but it doesn't seem possible. Here it is on test.

 

 

The previous owner also threw away most of the under frame detail and all the axle guards so new ones have been ordered from Heljan spares, nice and cheap, waiting for them to arrive.

 

Next job is to sort out the electrics, the wires from the pick ups are no longer routed properly so show through the glazing. I read somewhere there is a working light on the model (?), mine doesn't work which isn't an issue but there is a wire that needs resoldering and it can then have the Gaugemaster chip fitted. I'm sure more issues will arise but today feels like progress.

 

Need to add a few passengers, driver and paint the interior. So far buying the railbus and parts excluding decoder which is optional has cost around £70, a lot less than they go for online.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The cold weather has slowed progress recently. I even started building a very basic Airfix ME 109 kit I had been given as I could do that in a warm part of the house. Aircraft modelling is not really my bag as it requires too much precision, no slopping paint, talc and chalks around. It was a good exercise in masking techniques and brush painting which was the point.

 

I have painted the interior and added just a few passengers and a driver at one end. Not many as the line only has a few more years.

 

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Researching the interior has proved surprisingly difficult, not helped by the fact that preservation lines  don't always restore interiors to original colours. The Mangapps Farm Railbus has blue seats, the originals were green apparently.

 

I assume the grey things sticking out above the buffers are lamp irons I assume, there is nothing like them on the prototype so they will have to come off. Silver Tay make nice etched replacements.

 

Painting was made difficult because the four screws holding the top plate wouldn't budge so I had to paint through the gaps. I used Humbrol paints and a Vallejo wash on the floor. yes there is a loose wire that needs re attaching, a common problem apparently. When the garage comes up above freezing,

 

I still haven't found a reliable source for the colours of the curtains, does anyone know what colour they were? Again, I have only seen one Railbus with curtains in colour and that too is preserved so I can't be sure the curtains are in fact blue, does anyone know what colour the originals were?

 

Next problem, this model is based on a preserved example so has no smoking signs, I've yet to find a way to remove them as they seem to be printed on. I've tried IPA alcohol, decal softening fluid and T Cut so far to no avail. It might need new glazing if it's even available?

 

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14 hours ago, mullie said:

I've tried IPA alcohol, decal softening fluid and T Cut so far to no avail.

Hi Mullie,

 

Still thoroughly enjoying thsi thread.

 

As for the removal of printed logos, a late friend of mine used to use really cheap toothpaste and a cotton bud to remove modern logos off the glazing of model preserved buses.  Apparently the cheap stuff is mildly abrasive.  The risk would be visible and noticable damage to the glazing.

 

The same friend also used the paste to remove paint a glue spills from model aircraft canopies.

 

Finally, I would not worry about your model aircraft building skills.  Have a look at some of the models that appear on the Airfix Tribute Forum, and you'll see some quite gracious and generous support for those of us who cannot yet figure out how to do WWII Luftwaffe camouflage.

 

Hope that some of the above is of use.

 

Regards,

 

Alex.

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A possible is very careful use of a scalpel point almost parallel to the glazing and gently scraping off the no-smoking text; sort of as  as you would use a chisel on wood. I recently used it as a technique in getting some white paint off the glazing strip on an r-t-r coach where the previous owner had, for some unknown reason, blocked off several of the windows which on the prototype MK1 full brakes were clear glazed with bars behind.

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Real progress today.

 

Through a bit of experimentation I managed to ascertain that the no smoking signs were definitely on the outside, which was always most likely.

 

I had experimented with this stuff and cocktail stick.

 

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Working slowly I have managed to remove the signs on one side, a great result. How long did it take? The whole of Fleetwood Mac's 'Tango in the Night' album on vinyl and the first three songs of David Grey's 'White Ladder' album on CD. The advantage of working upstairs is access to my large vinyl and CD collection along with a half decent sound system.

 

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Why do I own scratch remover I hear you ask! I used to put our car in the garage every night and every so often would clip the door post as it was a tight fit, the scratch remover made it easy to polish out. A mid 90s garage doesn't hold a modern car so the cars (we now have two) live outside.

 

It has crossed my mind to extend the layout but as we will downsize in the not too distant future I don't want to push my luck, I know the current layout will fit pretty much anywhere and the narrow gauge module (yes it still exists and will be developed this year) lives above it so vertical extension has already happened.

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We tried downsizing 7+ years ago. Well we brought a smaller house, but the kitchen was too small and a larger lounge we thought would be useful, so a small extension was on the cards

 

Well once we saw the cost of  a 2 m extension across the rear we thought a 3m one would be better, then I got a quote for a railway shed for the side of the house, only to find it would cost the same to build it in brick. The architect said as we were spending so much to make full use of the extension it would be best to remove 3 (or was it 4) walls and a chimney breast.

 

In the end about 33 square meters was added to the property, which was the same footprint as our terraced house 40 odd years earlier. When we brought our terrace house 55 years ago it was so much bigger than our flat, 7/8 years ago this 1920's semi felt too cramped after living in an extended 70's property.

 

At least the garden is smaller, and more important we have a house which works for us. Good luck in house hunting as it seems a nightmare from what I gather now

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16 minutes ago, hayfield said:

We tried downsizing 7+ years ago. Well we brought a smaller house, but the kitchen was too small and a larger lounge we thought would be useful, so a small extension was on the cards

 

Well once we saw the cost of  a 2 m extension across the rear we thought a 3m one would be better, then I got a quote for a railway shed for the side of the house, only to find it would cost the same to build it in brick. The architect said as we were spending so much to make full use of the extension it would be best to remove 3 (or was it 4) walls and a chimney breast.

 

In the end about 33 square meters was added to the property, which was the same footprint as our terraced house 40 odd years earlier. When we brought our terrace house 55 years ago it was so much bigger than our flat, 7/8 years ago this 1920's semi felt too cramped after living in an extended 70's property.

 

At least the garden is smaller, and more important we have a house which works for us. Good luck in house hunting as it seems a nightmare from what I gather now

That sounds like an adventure!

 

We haven't even got as far as deciding where to live, to stay here or move closer to where our children live which is also closer to where we are from.

 

South Dorset is a stunning place to live but can be frustrating to get anywhere else as connections are not good. Everything is good while I am able to drive long distances.

 

Needless to say our children don't want us to move, we were the same about our parents moving house from where we grew up.

 

We still have time to ponder as we both have a few more years at work.

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3 hours ago, mullie said:

That sounds like an adventure!

 

We haven't even got as far as deciding where to live, to stay here or move closer to where our children live which is also closer to where we are from.

 

South Dorset is a stunning place to live but can be frustrating to get anywhere else as connections are not good. Everything is good while I am able to drive long distances.

 

Needless to say our children don't want us to move, we were the same about our parents moving house from where we grew up.

 

We still have time to ponder as we both have a few more years at work.

At the risk of going off topic we have just been through the same dilemma as the family are all now over 300 miles away but by random happenstance grouped within a 30 mile radius of each other. That includes both our children/grand children but also both my sister and my wife's sister. We have decided to stay put as whilst moving appears good on paper neither of us likes the prospect of having to restart building the social support network we have here as a consequence of living here on the Island just short of 37 years!

 

Outcome we are investing in a new garage roof (warm type) so that the space can become a proper hobby area without all the condensation and white mould issues that have cut that opportunity out for all the time we have lived here. Everybody will be different but the social network where you currently live, if you have a strong one, is a very significant anchor. Knowing you I am pretty sure you have a similar strong social network too.

 

Plus as you say, a stunning place to live despite the periodic gales. (66mph forecast for tomorrow evening!)

 

Edited by john new
Correction of a distance.
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Railbus has run under DCC for the first time using a Gaugemaster chip. It seems to have directional lighting but it only works one way.

 

 

Anyone know where this wire should go,  could be something to do with it?

 

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On 03/01/2024 at 20:57, mullie said:

It's hard to believe this wagon was shunted into position by state of the art motive power circa 1963.

 

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 you have some meaty lumps of coal there sir, are the coalmen discussing how to get them from the wagon?

 

Kevin

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56 minutes ago, Strathwood said:

 you have some meaty lumps of coal there sir, are the coalmen discussing how to get them from the wagon?

 

Kevin

Something else on the to do list,  I think I originally made the load for Pott Row mpd, possibly a tad large for domestic use. 

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I've come over all analogue!

 

The secondhand Combi I bought years ago is looking very tired.  I have decided not to DCC the narrow gauge locos and a short stretch of DC EM track could be useful for testing. 

 

It is the first DC controller purchase since I was thirteen and the trusty duette still runs the layout lights.

 

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Edited by mullie
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On 30/01/2024 at 17:02, mullie said:

I've come over all analogue!

 

The secondhand Combi I bought years ago is looking very tired.  I have decided not to DCC the narrow gauge locos and a short stretch of DC EM track could be useful for testing. 

 

It is the first DC controller purchase since I was thirteen and the trusty duette still runs the layout lights.

 

20240130_165632.jpg.1891868ed6fe7dc92c3600053516a019.jpg

I’ve used Gaugemaster controllers for about the last 30 years. About a year ago I thought there must be something more modern to operate modern motors, so I did a little research online. The result? Gaugemaster.

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90+% of the controllers we sell are Gaugemaster. 

100% of the issues we have are with the other brands.......

 

I thank you. 

 

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And if they do go wrong, or you even think they have, they are guaranteed. Personal experience confirms that. I also recommend them.

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I use a clipper on my EM gauge rolling road test track plank just until I convert the DC/DCC rolling road, which has a Pentroller for DC and another hand held DC controller as an option, to EM gauge. I've had that clipper now for around 50 years. I must have dropped it half a dozen times and it still keeps going strong. I've used it to test the track and wiring For every layout I've ever built. It could do with the slide switch for the resistance replacing and one of the feet is broken but as I say it just keeps rolling along with zero drama.

Here she is in the background in all her shabby glory.

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Regards Lez.

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The Combi was tested on the layout this afternoon with an old Bachmann 08 and the J72 which has a Comet chassis, Hi level box etc and it was great, better than the older one which seems strange.

 

The J70s might be an interesting proposition as they use stay alive with Bullant bogies, will have to give that a trial soon. Things are a bit disjointed here as we have been busy with family stuff at weekends meaning minimal time for running the layout. Garage is too cold at night.

 

I went DCC because of the type of layouts I was building twenty years ago and Pott Row certainly benefitted from DCC, my current layout style is much simpler though I do like being able to tweak motor settings in DCC.

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The railbus has turned into quite a challenging project.  Having got it running I left it for about a week then one of the Gibson wheels decided it didn't want to be round anymore so had to be changed.  Last night I got it running again then the motor decided it didn't want to work so I have taken it apart , the good news is that the motor is fine. This is today's carnage. 

 

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As the lighting doesn't work and I probably wouldn't use it anyway I'm tempted to take out the circuit board,  simplify it all and hard wire a decoder in. Anyone know a reason why I would need to retain the circuit board? Losing it would make fitting the body a lot easier as fewer wires could be channelled properly. 

 

Combi no 1 is in the photo.  The screws gave up years ago so I have soldered two wires in with crocodile clips for testing purposes. 

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Great shot mullie, I do like those Derby Lightweights they have more character than the met cams.

Regards Lez.  

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