Upbech St Mary, Upbech Drove and Pott Row a journey through 00 and then into EM and 009.

[mullie]

5 hours ago, Flying Fox 34F said:

Hitachi Bi-Mode units.  
 

My last time on York Station was my first close up encounter with a class 68.  The ground and my chest were vibrating just from the thing idling!!!!!!!

 

Paul

We also saw a Lumo unit whilst waiting at Harrogate Station, this appeared to be bi modal too.

 

In Weymouth we don't see such things.

[john new]

17 minutes ago, mullie said:

We also saw a Lumo unit whilst waiting at Harrogate Station, this appeared to be bi modal too.

 

In Weymouth we don't see such things.

But we were (Southern Region) well ahead of the game with the Electro Diesels and the REP / 4TC / D65xx combos.

[Flying Fox 34F]

11 hours ago, mullie said:

We also saw a Lumo unit whilst waiting at Harrogate Station, this appeared to be bi modal too.

 

In Weymouth we don't see such things.

Interesting, the original concept of the Lumo units was for them to have emergency battery sets, to move them a short distance during any OHLE incidents.   I wonder if the specification got changed?

 

Paul

[mullie]

1 hour ago, Flying Fox 34F said:

Interesting, the original concept of the Lumo units was for them to have emergency battery sets, to move them a short distance during any OHLE incidents.   I wonder if the specification got changed?

 

Paul

I seem to think the specification got changed because of budget cuts to the electrification programme or in other words the usual lack of imagination on the part of government. 

 

The change means the units are much heavier and less eco friendly than originally planned. 

[31A]

13 hours ago, mullie said:

We also saw a Lumo unit whilst waiting at Harrogate Station, this appeared to be bi modal too.

Sorry to be picky, but are you sure you saw the Lumo train in Harrogate, not York?  Lumo trains don't run through Harrogate, and are straight electrics (not bi mode) so they couldn't run through there under their own power even if they wanted to!

 

LNER run bi mode Azumas to Harrogate from King's Cross.

 

[mullie]

3 minutes ago, 31A said:

Sorry to be picky, but are you sure you saw the Lumo train in Harrogate, not York?  Lumo trains don't run through Harrogate, and are straight electrics (not bi mode) so they couldn't run through there under their own power even if they wanted to!

 

LNER run bi mode Azumas to Harrogate from King's Cross.

 

You are right,  could have been an azuma. As you can tell by this thread the current scene is not really my thing. Not picky at all, I got it wrong.

 

We used to use the railways a lot more but the line between Weymouth and London regularly has bus substitutions at weekends, tickets and station parking are expensive even if we plan in advance. 

 

Sadly I usually drive,  it was great to use the trains whilst in Harrogate. 

[Flying Fox 34F]

The reference to Harrogate threw me.  Before I finished with NR, I knew the Lumo were not intended to be Bi-mode, but as I said earlier, they were meant to have a battery system that allowed them to be moved a short distance without the OHLE.  

Paul

[mullie]

Got a new phone yesterday and it definitely gives a more accurate rendition of how I see the layout when it is set up at home.

 

The quayside was still busy at times into the 60s.

 

 

And this is what we were left with.

 

 

The harbour still needs finishing. 

[mullie]

23 minutes ago, Flying Fox 34F said:

The reference to Harrogate threw me.  Before I finished with NR, I knew the Lumo were not intended to be Bi-mode, but as I said earlier, they were meant to have a battery system that allowed them to be moved a short distance without the OHLE.  

Paul

We have had a good experience using NR,  last year as well, though trains after ours were cancelled when we went to Knaresborough. 

 

Thanks everyone for your comments. 

[mullie]

Went for a walk up to the Stray whilst in Harrogate , first is a view towards the station. 

 

 

Now the other way. 

 

[mullie]

Of course no visit to North Yorkshire would be complete without visiting Knaresborough.  These photos were taken last year though nothing had really changed, this year we travelled over the viaduct. Lots of semaphore signalling on the route,  Harrogate has both semaphore and colour lights which would make for interesting modelling. 

 

Weeds were present on both our visits. 

 

 

[mullie]

Just occasionally a wagon uses the quayside siding, moved by pinch bars even in the early 60s.

 

 

[MrWolf]

Cracking job sir, love the way everything is weathered to the same standard and palette as the wagons and vise versa.

[NHY 581]

9 hours ago, mullie said:

Just occasionally a wagon uses the quayside siding, moved by pinch bars even in the early 60s.

 

 

 

 

Morning Martyn, 

 

Of all your layouts, this particular 'module' is my favourite. A lovely scene. 

 

Rob

 

 

[Mikkel]

Completely agree with fang and curly, mullie. Your scenes always seem so well integrated, and the colouring is a major part of it.

 

Knaresborough looks like a candidate for my railway bucket list!

 

[mullie]

I'll be honest, I don't know how I achieve the colours or why I stop where I do rather than slopping on more. I think some key things might be:

 

• Rolling stock if a kit is first painted using Tamiya rattle cans,  paints or anything else of an appropriate colour having been washed and primed. Tamiya and Halford paints can be sourced locally as Royal Mail can't be relied on due to high postage costs and increasing unreliability.

Weathering and scenic details are completed as follows:

• The use of artists colours which don't produce blocks of colours, they are far more translucent.
• To paint something, put a limited range of possible colours on a tear off pallet and slop away.
• Walk away allow to dry, which doesn't take long as I use acrylics, sometimes removing paint using water or IPA alcohol is more effective than adding more.
• I do own one AK pin wash, all other washes are achieved using black or brown Indian ink thinned with water. The crucial point is that the mix is very thin, more can be added and because it is water based unless working on card it can be removed (the card soaks and delaminates).
• A limited palette of only around six colours, either system 3 or cheap acrylics from places like The Works and the Range.
• I also use artists pencils, and chalks in place of weathering powders.
• To achieve the effects I'm after, including matting finishes I apply talc, a great matting agent which gives texture, though the lightening of the colour because of the talc needs to be allowed for.
• In certain circumstances I also use charcoal especially on roofs of rolling stock.

I started working this way because I don't have a decent model shop in easily drivable distance so started using what I could buy locally and the children discarded. It was also cheaper at a time we were bringing up our family. I always work from photographs.

 

My working life has been spent among creative types, musicians, artists etc. and our family is very creative in music, music education and art/photography as a profession. That is bound to have have had an impact.

 

Hope that makes sense and thank you for the kind comments, to be honest I make it up as I go along, do make mistakes but because of the materials used, they can usually be corrected and in doing so can improve the effect, yes really. 

 

The turning point was reading Martyn Welsh's weathering book, I used to work in enamels following his methods but haven't been able to tolerate the fumes for around twenty years. I switched to acrylics but still refer to his book for inspiration.

[john new]

59 minutes ago, mullie said:

I'll be honest, I don't know how I achieve the colours or why I stop where I do rather than slopping on more. I think some key things might be:

 

• Rolling stock if a kit is first painted using Tamiya rattle cans,  paints or anything else of an appropriate colour having been washed and primed. Tamiya and Halford paints can be sourced locally as Royal Mail can't be relied on due to high postage costs and increasing unreliability.

Weathering and scenic details are completed as follows:

• The use of artists colours which don't produce blocks of colours, they are far more translucent.
• To paint something, put a limited range of possible colours on a tear off pallet and slop away.
• Walk away allow to dry, which doesn't take long as I use acrylics, sometimes removing paint using water or IPA alcohol is more effective than adding more.
• I do own one AK pin wash, all other washes are achieved using black or brown Indian ink thinned with water. The crucial point is that the mix is very thin, more can be added and because it is water based unless working on card it can be removed (the card soaks and delaminates).
• A limited palette of only around six colours, either system 3 or cheap acrylics from places like The Works and the Range.
• I also use artists pencils, and chalks in place of weathering powders.
• To achieve the effects I'm after, including matting finishes I apply talc, a great matting agent which gives texture, though the lightening of the colour because of the talc needs to be allowed for.
• In certain circumstances I also use charcoal especially on roofs of rolling stock.

I started working this way because I don't have a decent model shop in easily drivable distance so started using what I could buy locally and the children discarded. It was also cheaper at a time we were bringing up our family. I always work from photographs.

 

My working life has been spent among creative types, musicians, artists etc. and our family is very creative in music, music education and art/photography as a profession. That is bound to have have had an impact.

 

Hope that makes sense and thank you for the kind comments, to be honest I make it up as I go along, do make mistakes but because of the materials used, they can usually be corrected and in doing so can improve the effect, yes really. 

 

The turning point was reading Martyn Welsh's weathering book, I used to work in enamels following his methods but haven't been able to tolerate the fumes for around twenty years. I switched to acrylics but still refer to his book for inspiration.

A thing to note, and your post has acted as a reminder, is a possible need to stock up on a bulk supply of genuine talc. I read recently that in some leading baby care products (Johnson & Johnson) is to be replaced by corn-starch.  Does that still matt? According to this press release make-up talc from Johnson & Johnson is not being changed.

 

[mullie]

18 minutes ago, john new said:

A thing to note, and your post has acted as a reminder, is a possible need to stock up on a bulk supply of genuine talc. I read recently that in some leading baby care products (Johnson & Johnson) is to be replaced by corn-starch.  Does that still matt? According to this press release make-up talc from Johnson & Johnson is not being changed.

 

My current bottle is Imperial leather I think, had the same one for years. I also use SWMBOs cast off hairspray for scenic items and the occasional masking technique. 

 

Thanks for the prompt, I'll find out when I eventually need a new bottle.

 

The rubbish I keep, a hanging basket lining for grass too.

[sb67]

From someone who is hooked on the latest weathering products and methods, I love the description of your methods. The results you get are superb and the colours all complement each other, I'd like to move away from enamels too but struggle to find a better medium for making a wash, I want to try the odourless thinners and oil paints but even though there is no smell I still think they are toxic, but you are not noticing so much. 

[mullie]

11 hours ago, sb67 said:

From someone who is hooked on the latest weathering products and methods, I love the description of your methods. The results you get are superb and the colours all complement each other, I'd like to move away from enamels too but struggle to find a better medium for making a wash, I want to try the odourless thinners and oil paints but even though there is no smell I still think they are toxic, but you are not noticing so much. 

Your layout shows you clearly have a method that works so why change? I don't use a lot of model acrylics so am not best placed to comment as I use artist and craft paints mainly on scenic items.

 

Martyn Welsh produced the stunning results in his book with a limited range of colours, I started by following his methods in enamels but then the change to acrylics was forced onto me for the reasons above. I simply found the acrylic equivalents of the enamels I had been using. Unlike Martyn I don't own an airbrush hence my use of rattle cans for rolling stock. The move to using art materials was later after a lot of practice.

 

Weathering powders are great and people achieve stunning results however the costs seem pretty high. 

 

When tackling anything I find a suitable photo for inspiration, everything in nature blends and is quite subdued with a limited palette. Even a new loco won't stand out as it is likely to have at least some staining. Here are some sacks being worked on.

 

 

Here is a Portland Stone company lorry weathered to reflect the uniquely dusty environment we live in. This is a cruel close up as it is straight out of the box, not modified in any way.

 

 

My style is not to everyones taste, it is a personal thing. Nothing goes on my layout unless it has been weathered, that includes figures and things as small as packing boxes such as seen on the quay. Nothing is painted in block colours, always a combination of two to three colours. This photo taken at SWAG this year shows my basic materials. The narrow gauge wagons are in a post above having now been finished.

 

 

I think I've gone on for long enough, time for a lie down in a darkened room!

Edited September 8, 2023 by mullie

[sb67]

That's a great description of your methods. I love the Martyn Welch book, wish it was in colour! His methods are always my first port of call. Did it take you long to get used to using acrylics with his methods? I find acrylic paints difficult to dry brush and to use for washes. 

[mullie]

38 minutes ago, sb67 said:

That's a great description of your methods. I love the Martyn Welch book, wish it was in colour! His methods are always my first port of call. Did it take you long to get used to using acrylics with his methods? I find acrylic paints difficult to dry brush and to use for washes. 

The main thing to get used to is the quicker drying time,  which if combined with talc is almost instant, matt model paints depending on make can be very matt and brush marks can be harder to hide due to consistency  unless watered down. 

 

If I think of any more I will add to the post,  I'm sure others will have advice. 

 

Acrylics can usually be removed with water if not applied to a porous surface such as card. Often removal produces a more interesting effect if not all is removed. 

 

Experiment on an old wagon,  next doors cat or similar, something not important.  I wouldn't go back to oil based paints even if I could. I had to use some oil based exterior paint on our windows yesterday,  not pleasant stuff but necessary in our salty climate. 

Edited September 10, 2023 by mullie

[mullie]

We haven't seen any locos for a while and we are coming to the end of the latest 60s era photos. 

 

 

Then all is quiet

 

 

[hayfield]

Mullie

 

The third post might interest you and the others

 

https://85a.uk/templot/club/index.php?threads/long-gone.726/#post-7682

 

W&U 1961 Growers Special

[mullie]

8 hours ago, hayfield said:

Mullie

 

The third post might interest you and the others

 

https://85a.uk/templot/club/index.php?threads/long-gone.726/#post-7682

 

W&U 1961 Growers Special

I'm pretty sure I've got this saved in my YouTube account,  always a good watch and I've watched it recently. If only someone had filmed the line earlier. 

 

It is amazing how busy the line could be at peak times. 

 

Thanks for posting