LJC Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Building a MPD and want to create the concrete/flsuh rail effect that in and around the shed area. Don't want to go down the filler avenue, suggestions please ???? Cheers LJC Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
deltic79 Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Andy Y has documented his use of Fab Foam on here (available from Hobbycraft). Can't remember if it's on here or the old forum I'm afraid but a search will no doubt bring it up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 I used offcuts from an arts and crafts shop for the decorative mounting board they use around pictures in frames. One of the many colours available was a grey concrete colour and the texture was just right for this. The offcuts were very inexpensive too. I have also used the black stuff for a goods yard road surface, again just right for a bitumen/asphalt texture. The concrete effect can be seen in the first three pics and the bitumen effect can be seen in the last two photos. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karhedron Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Chris Nevard has done very nice work using modelling clay (possibly Das). Check out some of his layouts here. http://www.nevard.com/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LJC Posted January 31, 2012 Author Share Posted January 31, 2012 Thanks to all so far, some good tips here. LJC Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HLT 0109 Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 I understand your reluctance to use filler - I decided to avoid it for fear of making an almighty mess. I have used plasikard and cork. Care is required to get the thicknesses right so that the surface is just a bit lower than the railhead. Mine was one of my early tasks and I intend to redo it at some stage but expect to use the same method (albeit with a little more skill). DAS clay works quite well as an alternative filler; it is easy to work with, makes very little mess and any surplus bits come off easily. It does however, leave a very smooth surface which requires texturing. Harold. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stewart Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 LJC, Further to the suggestions of foamboard. I picked up a recent Continental Modeller mag specifically for the article on modelling a concrete hardstanding type surface in foam board by Emmanual Noullier (I've probably spelt that wrong!). Easily the most convincing depiction of a concrete surface I've come across in a mag. At work just now but I'll post a note of the mag details later tonight. Kind Regards Stewart Glendinning Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted February 1, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 1, 2012 I use layers of plastic styrene. Its not a particularly cheap option but so far it has generally lasted well on one layout that is 15 years old without any lifting and more recently used on my N scale Santa Barbara layout. I lay the track then infil between the tracks with a first layer of styren which has had the underside scored ot allow the superglue speread over it to adhere it to the baseboard (no god if sticking to a foam baseboard though). Subsequent layers are then fixed with Humbrol liquid pooly 'poured' on and spread ont othe previous layer stick down. The final two layers then oversail the track chairs but are fixed slightly belwo rail level. The bit of concret in the middel of the track is formed by cutting a first stip the width between the chairs and supergluued down. The final layers then cut to the relevant inside gauge (14.5mm in OO) and fixed with liquid poly. Any concrete consturction lines are then scored into the surface after painting then a wash of dirt is spread over thep ainted surface, settling in the concrete construction lines. This method is more fiddly on curved sections of track but if templated using paper or thin card first then it still works. Best ot buy larger sheets of styrene at places such as 4D models i Leman ZStreet, London E1 or traders at exhibitons. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Y Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 The attached may be of some help/interest too. Inset_track.pdf Hi-res image to accompany that page here - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/Keyhaven_Images/Inset_track_line.jpg Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted February 1, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 1, 2012 A point Brian Harrap made recently, regarding inlaid track, was to ensure the ground beneath/forming the flange channel was also filled, so as to hide the sleepers/chairs from view. Stu Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stewart Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 LJC, The article I was referring to was in August 2011 Continental Modeller - " a masterclass in simulating concrete" from foamboard by Emmanuel Nouaillier. Step by step guidance including inset trackwork. Well worth tracking down. Regards, Stewart Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crompton48 Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 I used Plaster on my layout Exford mixed with some Railmatch concrete acrylic paint. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crompton48 Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Plaster was not to messy but i had to make some check rails to hold the plaster away from the rails until dry . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwrosebury2000 Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 I used plaster on an old layout and made a few mistakes, 1 I din't use anything to stop the plaster coming upto the rails, now I use a few strips of balsa like the check rails mentiond above. 2 I added paint once the plaster was down and dry, fine untill you get a chip, now I add paint as I mix the plaster. other than that it worked well for me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoovernut Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 I have used smooth it by woodland scenics. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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