Horsetan Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 ....The Shephard bits are terrific and very price competitive against Griffin..... He also has the right idea of making all the bits and etchings and pressings available separately, so you can build your engine in stages as and when you can afford it. An idea that would go down well in 4mm scale. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted May 10, 2012 Author Share Posted May 10, 2012 A bit nearer with balance weights and coal bars on rear cab done. Some coal in the bunker too. The "self rusting" Slaters wheels are already in need of help. Believe it or not the springs are also fitted. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted May 12, 2012 Author Share Posted May 12, 2012 Limping a little bit nearer the finish line................ The S/V bonnet is almost level at last. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 It is looking far better than when you first posted. Have you thought about chemically blackening the wheels. It keeps the rust at bay nicely. I also think it looks better than the shiney rims. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 That is looking very smart indeed. If you do decide to blacken the sides of the tires don't forget to blacken the brass wheel centres too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted May 12, 2012 Author Share Posted May 12, 2012 It is looking far better than when you first posted. Have you thought about chemically blackening the wheels. It keeps the rust at bay nicely. I also think it looks better than the shiney rims. Yes, rods and wheels definitely need blackening. My Carr's brass mix does not work uniformly, not sure why that is. Some weathering would reduce the "Airfix" look too. Thanks for comments, would I do it again? Probably not unless the buy price was so low to allow funds for upgrading wheels, castings and pressings. I would not dream of trying a large loco like their Hall or Manor, but the 48xx could work and has been customised successfully by some luminaries of the hobby and seen in MRJ over the years. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 13, 2012 Share Posted May 13, 2012 Hello LaScala, have a look in my build thread in the section on the 44xx, it will be about 10 pages back. I tried the Carr's stuff and found it cr&p, all I use now is the blackening fluid from Birchwood Casey (B/C), all I do is clean up the back of the wheels on some wet'n'dry that is stuck down on a flat piece of wood, then dunk the wheels in some cellulose thinners and let them dry. Then rub over with I.P.A. (not the drink) with a cotton bud and let them dry. Then apply the B/C with a cotton bud you will get about three wheels per bud. For the brass centre I give them a good brush with a rotary wire brush in the Dremel. Then apply the B/C. I have just re read your message and you say "that the Carr's "brass" mix does not work uniformly, not sure why that is?" The wheels are not brass may that be a clue! B/C; super blue for steel. B/C; brass black for brass. B/C; aluminum black for N/S; (their spelling not mine) it can also be used on brass. OzzyO. Edit. to add photos. Doing an axle. The axle and holder. Two of the wheels part done, I do the front and back. If your not going to paint them apply a light coating of WD40 with a cotton bud. The wheels before painting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 13, 2012 Share Posted May 13, 2012 I use the Carrs blackening and do not have any problems. I do not know how they compare in there finished blackness. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted May 13, 2012 Share Posted May 13, 2012 I use the Carrs blackening and do not have any problems. I do not know how they compare in there finished blackness. From my experience of using it, the Carrs stuff does need the piece being blackened to be clean and grease free. I tried to blacken one of many coupling hooks a while ago and ended up with a prefect negative of my finger print blackened onto one side. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 13, 2012 Share Posted May 13, 2012 I always thought things need to be clean and grease free to be blackened anyway. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted May 13, 2012 Share Posted May 13, 2012 I always thought things need to be clean and grease free to be blackened anyway. That is true. But as there are no instructions on the bottles I thought it might be worth pointing it out. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted May 13, 2012 Share Posted May 13, 2012 I'd not go as far as Ozzyo in my opinion of the Carr's blackening fluids, in that I found them to work reasonably well. However, since I started using the Birchwood Casey products, I've usually had much better results. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 13, 2012 Share Posted May 13, 2012 I'd not go as far as Ozzyo in my opinion of the Carr's blackening fluids, in that I found them to work reasonably well. However, since I started using the Birchwood Casey products, I've usually had much better results. Nick Hello Nick, all, I think that you all know I just say it as I see it. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted May 13, 2012 Author Share Posted May 13, 2012 Thanks gents. I do have the correct "brass" Carr's product but it is not giving me anything like the finish on Ozz's axle. It has taken to the coupling and con rods more or less, but ignores other spots. Think some gun blue is on the shopping list. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 13, 2012 Share Posted May 13, 2012 I have found brass always goes to brown rather than black, all in all steel is far easier to blacken. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted May 14, 2012 Author Share Posted May 14, 2012 Never mind gun-blue, here's laundry marker making a big difference to the drivers.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 Thanks gents. I do have the correct "brass" Carr's product but it is not giving me anything like the finish on Ozz's axle. It has taken to the coupling and con rods more or less, but ignores other spots. Think some gun blue is on the shopping list. LaScala, if it's the correct Carr's product it will have steel on the label, not brass. If it is the "brass" one this will take on the N/S rods not to bad, but not so on steel. Please put a photo of it up in your thread. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted May 14, 2012 Author Share Posted May 14, 2012 Here it is, brown and messy, not like anything you would want on your model. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Brass does go brown not dark blue. For the slaters wheels which are steel, you need the Black for steel not the one you have which is for brass Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Here it is, brown and messy, not like anything you would want on your model. Hello LaScala, as I had said in mess #57 & #64 you need the one for steel. You may get a bit of cover but not what you want. So please get the correct blackening fluid for the metal that is to be blacked. If you use the wrong one you will never be happy with the results. OzzyO. PS. sorry if I sound as though I'm going off on one. I don't mean to. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 Hello LaScala, as I had said in mess #57 & #64 you need the one for steel. You may get a bit of cover but not what you want. So please get the correct blackening fluid for the metal that is to be blacked. If you use the wrong one you will never be happy with the results. OzzyO. PS. sorry if I sound as though I'm going off on one. I don't mean to. Why would I need the one for steel when as you can see I have brass blackener on brass. Whilst noting apology, I do not get your point given my pic shows a tub of brass blackener on a sheet of cleaned brass(!), or do you think that's steel? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Yes use the brass one for brass, it goes brown rather than black. I said to get the steel one as I thought we were discussing blackening the wheels. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Yes, rods and wheels definitely need blackening. My Carr's brass mix does not work uniformly, not sure why that is. This sounds like you want to blacken the rods, the brass black will work to an extent. The second part " My Carr's brass mix does not work uniformly". Sounds like your trying to use it on the steel wheels. Thanks gents. I do have the correct "brass" Carr's product but it is not giving me anything like the finish on Ozz's axle. It has taken to the coupling and con rods more or less, but ignores other spots. Think some gun blue is on the shopping list. "I do have the correct "brass" Carr's product but it is not giving me anything like the finish on Ozz's axle" . This still sounds like your using the Carr's brass black on steel. The axle is steel. Brass does go brown not dark blue. For the slaters wheels which are steel, you need the Black for steel not the one you have which is for brass Why would I need the one for steel when as you can see I have brass blackener on brass. Whilst noting apology, I do not get your point given my pic shows a tub of brass blackener on a sheet of cleaned brass(!), or do you think that's steel? You do not mention what it is that you've applied it to. Please see your quotes above. Yes use the brass one for brass, it goes brown rather than black. I said to get the steel one as I thought we were discussing blackening the wheels. Again see your quotes above, can you now see why you have got us confused? OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted May 16, 2012 Author Share Posted May 16, 2012 Rather than perpetuate wires being crossed, can we just accept I know my brass from my steel? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 This loco is looking really good. The Warren Shepherd bits make all the difference. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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