LaScala Posted May 16, 2012 Author Share Posted May 16, 2012 This loco is looking really good. The Warren Shephard bits make all the difference. Thanks Steve, I am seriously considering replacing the cylinders and slidebars too with Warrens substitutes. The W/M is not really up to it, but not as big an ask as the Nu Cast Garratt our "Metropolitan" is doing! Although I bought for under half price, it was still too much particularly as the Springside wheels had to be ditched. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 I think that would be a good move. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 Thanks gents. I do have the correct "brass" Carr's product but it is not giving me anything like the finish on Ozz's axle. It has taken to the coupling and con rods more or less, but ignores other spots. Think some gun blue is on the shopping list. Hello LaScala, all I have been trying to do is give you some help in all my replies. In the above quote you say "It has taken to the coupling and con rods more or less, but ignores other spots". If you let me know what the "other spots" are I may be able to help you, but I need more info. from you. If you don't want my help fair enough. I won't bother to post on here again. Yours OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted May 16, 2012 Author Share Posted May 16, 2012 Hello LaScala, all I have been trying to do is give you some help in all my replies. In the above quote you say "It has taken to the coupling and con rods more or less, but ignores other spots". If you let me know what the "other spots" are I may be able to help you, but I need more info. from you. If you don't want my help fair enough. I won't bother to post on here again. Yours OzzyO. No problem and always appreciate help. The Springside rods are milled brass (and a strong point of kit) hence I used the correct blackener. Likewise the frames which were the "other spot". I just don't like the inconsistent muddy mess that results. Might be somewhat realistic for the rods I suppose. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bendy1 Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 No problem and always appreciate help. The Springside rods are milled brass (and a strong point of kit) hence I used the correct blackener. Likewise the frames which were the "other spot". I just don't like the inconsistent muddy mess that results. Might be somewhat realistic for the rods I suppose. If it is of any help, I had trouble trying to blacken the rods of my 45xx springside model - they turned out brown and very patchy as if they were not reacting with the chemical properly. Basically they didn't blacken well at all and i have no problem blackening other brass stuff. I noticed that you have left off the outside steam pipes so far- are you adding these later? The adjusted safety bonnet now looks a lot better. Regards Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted May 17, 2012 Author Share Posted May 17, 2012 If it is of any help, I had trouble trying to blacken the rods of my 45xx springside model - they turned out brown and very patchy as if they were not reacting with the chemical properly. Basically they didn't blacken well at all and i have no problem blackening other brass stuff. I noticed that you have left off the outside steam pipes so far- are you adding these later? The adjusted safety bonnet now looks a lot better. Regards Tony Thanks Outside pipes were not fitted to 4562 until after WW2 unless I'm mistaken. I'm glad you had the same issue with the rods. They are one of the best features of the kit, really having a heavy look to them as they should. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 No problem and always appreciate help. The Springside rods are milled brass (and a strong point of kit) hence I used the correct blackener. Likewise the frames which were the "other spot". I just don't like the inconsistent muddy mess that results. Might be somewhat realistic for the rods I suppose. Some manufactures use a grade of N/S that is almost yellow and can be mistaken for brass ( the fluid for brass will normally take on N/S, but not as well as the one for N/S), now I'm NOT saying that's happened here. First you have to have the metal well cleaned not just mechanical but also chemically. If the surface is polished it normally takes but you will have to do the following to get rid of any polish that's left. Use some thing like Meths., acetone or IPA. polished or not. Different grades of brass react to the fluid in different ways some will take it well some will not take it at all, possible the worst is cast brass for not taking it. I'm going to do a thread on metal blackening later today, to try and help everyone. HTH OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 Have you given any thought to using premier component coupling rods? I think warren advertises them on his web site. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted May 17, 2012 Author Share Posted May 17, 2012 Have you given any thought to using premier component coupling rods? I think warren advertises them on his web site. I haven't as they look good are beautifully milled (not unnaturally a perfect match with the milled frames) and I can live with the hue. Ozz, you might be on the right track to some extent as it was the frames that I complained about the Carr's not taking to. I am certain they are brass of some description. but obviously it is not to Carr's liking. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 LaSacala, I've just started a thread on metal blackening, it's in kit and scratch building at the moment but it may get moved to questions, hints and tips. OzzyO. Edit, I've just reread your last mess. the Carr's brass black that I used didn't like brass, but it did like steel? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted June 3, 2012 Author Share Posted June 3, 2012 Almost finally....................... My Movie.wmv Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted June 3, 2012 Share Posted June 3, 2012 Very nice indeed. it's turned out a treat. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weaselfish Posted June 3, 2012 Share Posted June 3, 2012 That's a great job LaScala. Given your user name how about splicing the triumphal march from Aida into the vid? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted June 3, 2012 Share Posted June 3, 2012 Runs and looks very good. You must be pleased with it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted June 3, 2012 Author Share Posted June 3, 2012 Very nice indeed. it's turned out a treat. Thanks Kev and thanks for the "likes" along the way. That's a great job LaScala. Given your user name how about splicing the triumphal march from Aida into the vid? Good idea about the music Weaselfish, my nom de plume is related to the building rather than opera itself. Runs and looks very good. You must be pleased with it? I am but I would not repeat unless the purchase price was very low to allow heavy customisation. Also there is so much dead weight for the Mashima to drag around and that can't be beaten. Not as bad as Metropolitan's Nu-Cast project, but seriously obese all the same. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 It looks and runs lovely Hugh. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted June 5, 2012 Author Share Posted June 5, 2012 It looks and runs lovely Hugh. Thanks Rob, I think it will be a good "layout" loco though, never a glass case model. It can certainly deal with 12-15 wagons. I'm glad I persevered with the vaccuum pump. It drove me silly and I did consider both giving up and gluing the bits. It is all soldered together in the end and clearances were eventually found. As you can see from clip, my "plank" is only a nose in front of yours, just enough to shunt a train and prove everything works. I will add firebox glow as soon as I can get to the hobby electronics shop and possibly sound. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 As you can see from clip, my "plank" is only a nose in front of yours, just enough to shunt a train and prove everything works. It's a bit more than than a nose in front mine at present but now I have my turntable kit I can start to make progress at last. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted June 11, 2012 Author Share Posted June 11, 2012 Spent ages getting buffer beam numbers on today. They are Fox and I reckon they must be fractionally larger than prototype as the fit is marginal compared to photos of the real thing. Also gave myself a patience tester in form of shovel in bunker. My Movie4.wmv Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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