Ellerby - 4mm/OO gauge - All photos working, hotlinked.

[Jamiel]

1 hour ago, lezz01 said:

You could try Humbrol clearfix Jamie, but it's not really good for a hole over 3mm. Why not make windows out of clear plasticard and fix them in with clearfix. If you don't feel comfortable cutting one by hand get a bit of brass tube about the right diameter and chamfer the hole with a drill with a larger diameter to within an inch of its life, then just tap it with a hammer on the clear plasticard on a piece of wood and you've made yourself a hole punch the right size. Best I can come up with on short notice. Or see if you can find a leather punch the right size on ebay. 

Regards Lez.  

Thanks for the really good suggestion.

One other option I was considering was to push some plasticine through the hole, make a rubber mould of that, and then pour in somethings that set clear, but I think your method sounds much more straight forward.

I'll give it a try.

Jamie

[lezz01]

Here you go Jamie.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hole-punch-set/303892226546?hash=item46c16361f2:g:0MEAAOSw4BVgJuEB

Regards Lez.

[lezz01]

Or even this one, I've just brought one of these myself mate.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-Piece-HOLLOW-PUNCH-SET-Belt-Leather-Hole-Maker-Gasket-Card-Plastic-Canvas/293122761068?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

[Jamiel]

I managed to cut out the windows OK. I used a circle template, scored the clear plastic running a fresh scalpel blade backwards so as not to take chunks out the of template. I then pierced the score with the blade end, working my way round, and then cut it after that, the piecing guided the blade. Finished off with nail scissors and a file.

 

It turns out getting round windows wasn’t the issue, it was gluing them in. I held them in place with a finger and dabbed cyano around the reverse edge with a cocktail stick, but then having to adjust the position at the end plus the obligatory fogging made the windows are a mess.

 

 

I thought this would happen a little, but weathering would cover it, but for once this looks worse in reality than the photos. I will cut new windows, which took about an hour in total, so not as fast as a punch, and use the Glue’n’Glaze next time.

 

While we have a dry weather and sunlight, even if it has gone down past the hedge, I took the chance to photograph the body with natural lighting.

 

So, redoing the windows, and then a light black mixed with grey coat to soften the weathering and even out the numbers. Add some coal and probably a bit of expanded polystyrene to fill the bunker underneath it, and the body will be done.
 

I am just doing marking this week, only one lecture, so I should get chance to finish this off soon. It is enhancement week, in which most students enhance their lying in, as do some lecturers.
 

Something that did go to plan as an aside, I made a David Bowie desktop background based on the style of WW2 propaganda posters.

 

I am working on an artwork for a CD for a recording for that show, and other desktop backgrounds and artworks can be seen at: https://www.jamielochhead.co.uk/browse1.htm
 

Jamie

 

 

Edited March 1, 2021 by Jamiel

[Jamiel]

I have (more or less) finished the London Road Models L&Y Class 23 I have been building. My second brass loco kit, and the first one completed. Many thanks to those who offered advice here and on Tony Wright’s thread on through messages.

 

The second attempt at glazing worked much better, clear plastic cut to shape, stuck in with Glue’n’Glaze. Airbrushed along with the light pass on the tank, and then cleaned with a cotton bud dipped in thinner/white spirit.

 

I say more or less finished as there are some little things that will need doing at some point. When I can get to a craft shop, I will get some little black round paper stickers to go over the wheel centre nuts, which can then be weathered back.
 

Photos always show up odd things too, a bit more dirt to cover the silver of the brake wheel the diver is holding (I think it is a brake wheel?). I may also weather back the little bits of the numbers showing to bright by hand. I cleaned them after airbrushing, but overdid it. It would have been better to just leave them.
 

It will also need a bit of running in when I have access to a layout, I suspect mine will be stored for quite a few months still, and also a little lubrication to the gears.

I am pleased with the weathering, which is a little too much, but when out off direct sunlight is less obvious. My experiment with running thinner on the tank was a little too successful, maybe more akin what would be seen on an oil tanker, but after a light coat with the airbrush to tone it back I feel it gives it character. Character might just be a euphemism for mistake.

Lots of photos to share since it was sunny and I could take some reasonable shots.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks again for the help.

Jamie

Edited March 15, 2021 by Jamiel

[lezz01]

Wizard models do an etched brass cover for the wheel centres Jamie. Well worth the extra few quid. 

Regards Lez.

[St Enodoc]

8 hours ago, Jamiel said:

When I can get to a craft shop, I will get some little black round paper stickers to go over the wheel centre nuts, which can then be weathered back.

Doesn't someone round here use Plasticine (other modelling clays are available)?

[Jamiel]

I decided to just build a few wagon kits that could be out together without too much fuss. These are all what Tony Wright would call layout models, a bit of detailing if needed, but no real fuss over it.

First a Cambrian 3 plank SERC wagon for the engineering train. A 2p coin cut to fit providing the weight.

 

 

I have also been building some 16 ton minerals. Various small variations, some with single sided brake gear, some double. All have Smiths 3 link couplings added, with various levels of damage to the drawbar in fitting, all patched together afterwards.

 

First a Dapol (old Airfix), with just the brake handle ratchet replaced with brass, and the door hinge made more realistic.

 

A Parkside kit, with only the cross bar (?) added from Evergreen rod.

 

There are a lot spare brake handles and brake gear parts in the Parkside kits, and this is much finer than the Dapol. The remaining Dapol wagons will have this used as below. They will also have bearings fitted as there is plenty of depth in the axel boxes to drill out for them. The V hangers still need cutting off the Dapol brake handles though.

 

 

A variation, one of the earlier builds without the top doors, which was also done with the rebodied wagons in the 1970’s, but I have checked that ones like this ran in the 60’s.

 

Weighting again care of the mint. I plan to cut down the legs on the coal loads and to fit that as a base before adding real coal over that.

 

Having cut off the top doors I will do one with them down. I am looking forward to painting them, and plan to try the rust first, dots of Maskol and then grey before rubbing back to get the broken paint feel. I have heard this works better in 7mm than 4mm, but it will be interesting to try. I will also play with various methods of weathering as the photos in use all look pretty battered. I might also put something hot against some of the wagons to bend and bow a then a little.

 

Nice to do a simple build, I do have a soft spot for the old Airfix/Dapol kits, but I am sure something more challenging will be ahead. There is the Arcade and the Black 5 to finish and I would also like to build more of the footbridge for the station building, so lots of projects to do. The Transpennine too. It never ends, which I think is the point really.

 

In other news, had my vaccination, pretty shattered the following day, but didn’t have it as bad as my partner, Sarah was really ill for three days after the jab. Both better now.

 

Jamie

Edited April 3, 2021 by Jamiel
Wrong image posted/duplicate.

[St Enodoc]

1 hour ago, Jamiel said:

A 2p coin cut to fit

Can you still get sent to the Tower for doing that?

[MrWolf]

It did cross my mind to ask whether it was still an offence to deface a coin of the realm, but thought better of it.

But seeing as you mentioned it...

2 pence coins have been steel for 25 years or more now, because the copper in the original ones was worth more than 2 pence.

(Copper ones were much better for putting on railway lines too....)

 

Just my $0.02 worth! 

[Jamiel]

Apparently still a crime, it was discussed in the Airfix/Dapol Class B tankers thread when I posted about it there in 2015. They fit perfectly in the Airfix tankers.

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/36812-airfixdapol-tank-wagons/&do=findComment&comment=2020931

 

I might not be first in line for the Tower though, here is a link to The Hairy Growler’s website who makes jewellery out of coins (as well as other things).
 

https://www.hairygrowler.co.uk/

 

That said with our current home secretary, you might not be wrong about ending up in the Tower.
 

The old 2p coins are much better weights, the steel ones weigh a bit less.

[Barry O]

Jamie

 

I wouldn't worry yoo much about bending the sides.. after a while they may just do it themselves..at least some of my airfix and parkside ones have...

 

Baz

[31A]

7 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

Can you still get sent to the Tower for doing that?

 

I have found the tenders of some recent RTR locos to be rather light and have added some weight by burying 1p & 2p coins under the coal.

 

In my defence Your Honour they are not defaced, just buried and covered with glue....

[Jamiel]

I am sure the coins I have used will be well preserved in the wagons, even given a bit cut off the SECR 3 Plank one, and that is still with the other part.

 

I will never buy a Phoenix Precision spray can again! Their paints are excellent, I have no doubt of that, but I took the can of primer I have had for just over a year and it will not spray. Poking with a pin got a jet of blobs. I admit it has gone through a house move and probably not been stored upside down, but then so has the Halfords tin of grey primer, that I have had years and that still works fine.

 

In defence of Phoenix their paint is much finer, doesn’t have the graininess that the Halfords does, so may not be as likely to set as the Phoenix does. I want the wagons to have a rough finish to take a rusty feel, except the SECR 3 Plank, but I don’t mind that getting the Halfords anyway.

 

It would be nice to have a fine spray can primer with the finish of the Phoenix without having to get the airbrush out, but maybe that is the only option. Can anyone recommend any other high qulait primers that come in a spray can?

 

Rusting for the 16 ton minerals next.

[lezz01]

Try soaking the nozzle in thinners overnight then clean it out with a syringe full of thinners if it still isn't clear then give it a bit of a poke from the back of the nozzle with 0.35 wire then give it a second squirt out with the syringe and then blow it out with your airbrush compressor. If you clean the nozzle out when you've finished using it with a syringe full of thinners and blow that out with your compressor it won't block up like that. Or you can just turn it upside down and give it a couple of squirts till the paint stops coming that will work too but you will lose pressure before you run out of paint that way.    

Regards Lez.    

[Jamiel]

Thanks Lezz,

I'll give that a try to clean out the old can. If I have to go to all that fuss, I may as well just use the airbrush which has much more control in the first place, which I suspect will be the answer. I bought the cans from Phoenix to not have to do that, so I could get that stage done quickly and then get on painting.

Jamie

 

[Barry O]

Jamie

 

Never had a problem with Hicoat or Halfords primer so long as you get the can warmed up before use. Phownix ones (and railmatch) just clog up for me. 

 

I fasten weights into the underframes of open wagons. This means they can be loaded for used on Herculaneum Dock  Wentworth and my own layout. Loose loaded coal can then be emptied for stock transport.

 

I generally use a smallish lump of led fastened into the wagon chassis using evil stick. Apparentl this stops working after 30+ years as Mike has spotted some coming adrift when in use with wentworth for testing.

 

I use wizzard turned steel buffer heads on most of my wagons. Drilling out the buffer shank then gluing them in solid. Using dgs means this is fine as buffer locking should not occur.

 

Keep ob building!

Baz

[St Enodoc]

10 hours ago, Jamiel said:

It would be nice to have a fine spray can primer with the finish of the Phoenix without having to get the airbrush out, but maybe that is the only option. Can anyone recommend any other high qulait primers that come in a spray can?

I've never had a problem using automotive primer followed by normal model paints.

[Jamiel]

Thanks for the replies. I have found that Halfords primer has a slightly heavier grain than the Phoenix one, which for DMU’s, carriages and locos it gives a slightly rougher finish, but probably not an issue really. The heavier grain does not run as much though, so swings and roundabouts.

Anyway, roughness of primer is not an issue here after the next stage I have done. First layers of rust to be worked over.

 

I couldn’t find my talcum powder, so I stippled some Humbrol model filler which has given a really good texture mixed with the paints. Maybe a little too much, I may rub some Wet & Over to take the edge off, but I’ll look in natural light after it has had a night to dry.

 

I used three paints Humbrol Matt 113 (rust) but with a model filler this became very washed out, I found the Matt Black 33 mixed with Matt 82 Orange Lining gave a really nice rust colour. Heavily stippled on and mixed between the three colours constantly.

 

Messy at the first stage, but a good undercoat of rust to work with.

 

 

 

 

I plan to spatter with Maskol, but have also seen an interesting method of hairspray plus slat as the masking layer in some excellent work by Michl080.

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/144237-weathered-16t-mineral-wagon/

 

Anyway, I can sleep on it and work on the next layers tomorrow.

Jamie

[lezz01]

You can use copydex or silicone sealant as well. If you use enamel for your main colour you can craze it with MEK then you can rub in rust weathering powder and get a nice effect of rust breaking through the surface. I don't know if it works with acrylic paint as I don't tend to use it, I prefer enamels myself.

Regards Lez.  

[Jamiel]

Barry I see why you add the Wizard buffer heads, two of the Parkland buffer heads have come off, one during painting. Both found, but it doesn’t bode for them staying long term.

 

Lezz, I used the Mec over paint technique on some of my tankers, but I also added a couple of drops on the rust, on your advice, and it does give a nice variation.

 

I only use enamel paints, I tried acrylic paint on one of my buildings, but I just can’t get any good results from it. I used to paint with it on paper, and possibly canvas, hard to remember, but for modelling enamel is the only one I am happy with.

 

I also tried sanding back some of the rougher rust bits, mostly from the model filler, but the paint had full mixed into it so it tended to grey out the rust, so I stopped.
 

So, from here it gets even messier. For these wagons I have tried the Maskol dabbed on with a cocktail stick, some small dots, other large areas. I have tried to copy imges from wagons as much as possible.

 

It was then airbrushed with Phoenix Paints BR Grey, and then a tiny dusting of black, plus making the frames and giving them a quick spray with black. I also gave the SECR wagon a light spray with black.

 

Lots of photos.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Being left to dry and then will get the tweezers on the Maskol to see how it all has gone. Then retouching I suspect, and more weathering with a brush.

 

The next one I do I will try the salt method, probably using some matt varnish, diluted to hold the salt in place. I could also try some Pledge (or wahtever it is always called on the forum for settign tranfers).

 

Jamie

Edited April 4, 2021 by Jamiel

[Jamiel]

First stage of rusting done following Martyn Welch’s method. I have picked off the Maskol and I am pretty pleased with the results. I think these will be a medium rust for my layout when finished.

 

 

 

 

Transfers and black backing next, which I think will be a bit tricky to fit to match the rust, and then dry brush rust and dirty weathering.

 

Considering what a mess they looked in the previous post, it is good to know that following the method brings the desired results.

 

I don’t think that much of the inside rust patches will remain at all, after all the constant abrasion of coal being loaded and empties would not make for patches but scuffing, and more layers of dirt, but again it gives a base layer to start with.
 

I have just spotted the missing brake handle on the floor as well, and looking at the photos the Parkside door bangers from the first one I built are way to fat, I cut them down on the second one.

The Parkside buffers are useless, I think that I will have to order a load of the steel heads as suggested by Barry. I can see another one hanging off.

Jamie

Edited April 5, 2021 by Jamiel

[Jamiel]

The dry bush and allowing paint to run by capillary flow into crevices has been done. I think the results are OK, but these will be the only ones I will do this way. I think they have ended up looking like a very heavy weather, mostly because of the contrast between the painted and rust areas is so stark.

 

 

 

I will try the salt method on a couple of the next batch to give a fully rusted with only little bits of paint left, with the stripe and lettering over rust, and also a couple of very lightly rusted, still 95% paint ones. I think the ones above interspersed with less rough looking ones will make for some nice variation across a coal train.

A bit more to do on the inside of these too.
 

I did read that the Maskol method works better on 7mm scale wagons, probably because the patches produced are quite big at 4mm.

Back to marking student’s work for a few days now I suspect.

Jamie

[Jamiel]

Three more 16-ton mineral wagons under way.

 

Dapol, with top flap removed, and Parkside brake detail.

 

Dapol, with top flap cut off and put down, Parkside brake detail again.

 

Parkside, as it comes, plus brake cross bar underneath.

 

Ends.

 

I am not bothering to put the buffer head on the Parkside wagons, they just come off, and even the Dapol has shed on buffer head. All will be replaced using Barry’s suggestion of Wizard metal heads.

 

All with an initial rust layer mixerd with talc this time, and I will try the hairspray and salt for masking to give a very rusted look, but quite an even one, over which the info panels will have been repainted. I might sand the texture down a bitonce dry.

 

I think all the rest of the 16-ton mineral kits are Dapol, and will be made as without too much fussing. The variation will come in experimenting with painting methods, some hardly any rust, others a mix of techniques, depending on how the next ones turn out.

Jamie

[Barry O]

Jamie, not all should be rusty. When new they didn't go rusty for a while.. the coal plus rain water did for the paint as did the acid rain they encountered. Odd wagonsbin a "rusty" train would be unrusted.. with varying degrees of dirt.

 

Baz