Ellerby - 4mm/OO gauge - All photos working, hotlinked.

[Jamiel]

The front glazing done, fairly successful. It looks fine from above, but if you look up at the left side there is a little gap at the top. Not the best photos.

 

 

 

I didn’t mix the grey paint enough on the touch up, so it is still gloss, so I will repaint that inside the cab before fixing the roof on.
 

Away at work for the next few days, so no more work on the Transpennine until next weekend. Plenty of work giving guidance to students on their end of semester submissions though.

[Jamiel]

The cab roof glued on and filler to patch the join.

 

 

Sanded, filled, sanded and filled a few times to get it smooth. A thin Evergreen strip added for the ca roof join, this will be sanded back a little when it has set for a while.

 

The roof vents were cut off the Replica Mk1 bodies, kept in safely, and tiny rings added to bulk the base a little.

 

Side view. When I saw this photo, I went back and pushed the brass loop in tighter.

 

Front view.

 

I have stuffed a tissue in the cab behind the glazing so that the dust from the sanding doesn’t mess up the inside. The outside will be washed and dusted. Lesson learned from making the Bullied Diesel.

 

I am pleased how the roof is looking, a little more sanding and filing on the roof vents before painting. I will also hand paint the join under the roof lip.

[Jamiel]

Since I last posted it has mostly been helping students with their final submissions and then the annual slog of marking. Some lovely work, some disappointments, but all in all I am very happy to be a lecturer at Salford University and not where I was before which is currently 2nd from bottom of the university rankings, and deservedly so from my experience. Enough schadenfreude against my old employer. Actually there is never enough of that.
 

I have done little bits of modelling between the marking and to be honest it was good for it happen that way.

I sprayed the roof with a mix of Phoenix BR Dull Grey 1966-85 and Humbrol black mix, but wasn’t happy with the colour, it felt a bit yellow to me. I also showed that I needed some undercoat. So I used Halfords Grey Primer, which worked well, but showed a few little pocks in the roof. I also realised I had the front three roof vents too far back, so prized them off and repositioned them.

A couple of rounds of filling, sanding and light Halfords priming, and I was happy.

I decided to try Humbrol Tank Grey Matt 67 for the roof colour, so here it is drying.

 

I also grave the underframes a prime, Phoenix Self Etch, until I ran out, then just went straight to Humbrol Matt Black. I also had a bit of Humbrol black satin that I used up on bits of the underframe. I will see if it shows, there is weathering still to do.

The airbrush is on its last legs. The air valve wasn’t moving, I tried pushing it with the back end of the needle and that got it working. The button was not reaching the valve, not sure if something had broken off, or the base of it is too gunked up to push fully down. I cut a 4mm piece of brass rod and dropped it in ahead of the button base, and that got it working. So not in the best condition but working. I store it in a coffee jar of white spirit, so the valve gets a bit sticky as it is wet, usually by the time I have done what I want to do it eases up. I would like to get a bit more out of it, and I don’t do fine work with it, just overall coats and fine layers of weathering.

The first time I masked the body I used Duck Brand Tape, made in China for the marking. AVOID at all costs. Where I pressed it on to the gutter at the top it took of the green, but that is easy to hand paint back. On the sides it left a thick tacky deposit of glue behind, which I washed off with where spirit. I went to the box and dig out better tape for the masking you see, and also cut paper to cover the sides so that the tape was only contacting the gutters.
 

Anyway, almost at the end of the marking and just some exam boards, year review and external examining, but I should have time for some modelling and leave to use up.

[Jamiel]

Roof painted and retouching the edges that the cheap marking tape took the paint off. There is still a bit of tacky deposit from that tape, so more washing with white spirit and a cloth rather than paper, as you can see using kitchen towel has left a lot of dusty paper deposits.

 

Tank Grey was far too dark, so a layer of Humbrol Matt 140 Gull Grey has gone on. It will be duster with a bark grey or black, but the airbrush is a bit splattery for that the moment, so more cleaning before I try that.

 

 

This angle and light shows that I need to get the other body sides run through a roller to curve them. Normally it doesn’t show and a little weathering will hide it as well.

 

 

 

The back end needs more doing, obviously the corridor connectors, lower edge of the exhausts and quite a bit of weathering. This view will not be seen once the rake is all together.

 

The bogies need weathering too.

 

Still pretty much ready for the rest of the glazing, the interiors and the lighting, so I can get back to modelling rather than a bit of paint and then a day or two’s wait.

 

Marking all done for uni, moderation and exam boards, and then a lot of leave to use up. I have also been doing more CD artworks for bootleg groups and my website, which is fun to play with Photoshop.

[Mallard60022]

Good afternoon J.

My first visit to your site and I am glad I did visit. I'm well impressed with your TP Unit. 

You seem like a man after my own heart with Wagons and Vans, however you obviously have far more patience than me. However, I find making those to be a really relaxing and Mindful exercise. From 2020, through to the end of 2022, I must have made dozens!

Quick ask. I noticed the part Complete Comet Caprotti 5. Have you got that on the round tuit?

I made one some years back and that resides with the owner of Hills of the North and Grantham the Streamliner Years. You might have met him?

You also appear to have had conversations with Barry O of the Leeds MRC, on here at least? He is one of Red Leader's Wing men; Red Leader being Graham of Hills and Grantham! I mention this, as having a Visual Aid (my ex Caprotti B5 may encourage you to finish off that one of yours? 

If you happen to know Graham I'm sure he'd loan it to you if it is still with him and if not, at least send you some pics.

I'm also happy to chat about it. I has been my most successful Loco Build, but I manged to finish it before Geoff Brewin passed away and he gave me a 2/1!!!!!!

I believe You live in York, so if you fancy a quick meet up at the Tap to talk Caprotti 5s, I'll pop up from Retford for an hour or so. Any excuse for a Pint!

Take care and I am pleased to hear that your new Position in Manchester is suiting you so well.

Regards,

Phil

[Jamiel]

On 02/07/2023 at 17:37, Mallard60022 said:

Good afternoon J.

My first visit to your site and I am glad I did visit. I'm well impressed with your TP Unit. 

You seem like a man after my own heart with Wagons and Vans, however you obviously have far more patience than me. However, I find making those to be a really relaxing and Mindful exercise. From 2020, through to the end of 2022, I must have made dozens!

Quick ask. I noticed the part Complete Comet Caprotti 5. Have you got that on the round tuit?

I made one some years back and that resides with the owner of Hills of the North and Grantham the Streamliner Years. You might have met him?

You also appear to have had conversations with Barry O of the Leeds MRC, on here at least? He is one of Red Leader's Wing men; Red Leader being Graham of Hills and Grantham! I mention this, as having a Visual Aid (my ex Caprotti B5 may encourage you to finish off that one of yours? 

If you happen to know Graham I'm sure he'd loan it to you if it is still with him and if not, at least send you some pics.

I'm also happy to chat about it. I has been my most successful Loco Build, but I manged to finish it before Geoff Brewin passed away and he gave me a 2/1!!!!!!

I believe You live in York, so if you fancy a quick meet up at the Tap to talk Caprotti 5s, I'll pop up from Retford for an hour or so. Any excuse for a Pint!

Take care and I am pleased to hear that your new Position in Manchester is suiting you so well.

Regards,

Phil

Hi Phil

Sorry not to reply sooner, it has been a busy week.

Thank you for your comments.

With the Comet Caprotti Black 5, I am at point where I need to do the motion, but am not experienced enough to do that, so will seek help from an experienced modeller. I would also like to run the L&Y Class 23 a bit and check it doesn’t have any tight spots when on a layout. The Caprotti does seem to have a tight spot, so help will be needed there, maybe even using the experience of the first underframe and starting again and being more careful, or perhaps a visit tome Tony Wright for help.

I used to be a member at Leeds MRS, so I know Barry and many of the others there.

I am waiting for summer leave, or possibly later before taking on those tasks.

I am similarly in need of help finishing the Transpennine, as I need to get someone to roll the etched sides for the other 4 units. Although I manged to get the tumblehome for the driving units done, it is a bit rough, perhaps to be hidden with some light weathering.

It would be lovely to meet up, but unfortunately my layout is packed away and my modelling takes place in my small work room, opposite my computer, so my place isn’t the best for visitors.

I like the idea of a pint and a chat about trains and model railways though. Let me get the planning  for the next academic year out of the way and I will try and be a bit more sociable.

All the best.

Jamie

[St Enodoc]

5 hours ago, Jamiel said:

someone to roll the etched sides for the other 4 units

No names, no pack drill but at least one of the LMRS gang should be able to help with that.

Edited July 6, 2023 by St Enodoc

[Barry O]

8 hours ago, Jamiel said:

Hi Phil

Sorry not to reply sooner, it has been a busy week.

Thank you for your comments.

With the Comet Caprotti Black 5, I am at point where I need to do the motion, but am not experienced enough to do that, so will seek help from an experienced modeller. I would also like to run the L&Y Class 23 a bit and check it doesn’t have any tight spots when on a layout. The Caprotti does seem to have a tight spot, so help will be needed there, maybe even using the experience of the first underframe and starting again and being more careful, or perhaps a visit tome Tony Wright for help.

I used to be a member at Leeds MRS, so I know Barry and many of the others there.

I am waiting for summer leave, or possibly later before taking on those tasks.

I am similarly in need of help finishing the Transpennine, as I need to get someone to roll the etched sides for the other 4 units. Although I manged to get the tumblehome for the driving units done, it is a bit rough, perhaps to be hidden with some light weathering.

It would be lovely to meet up, but unfortunately my layout is packed away and my modelling takes place in my small work room, opposite my computer, so my place isn’t the best for visitors.

I like the idea of a pint and a chat about trains and model railways though. Let me get the planning  for the next academic year out of the way and I will try and be a bit more sociable.

All the best.

Jamie

Jamie

 

You are always welcome at the Club on a Wednesday night. The collective skills andbknowledge are vast compared to others.. 

 

Baz

[Jamiel]

Thank you, Phil, St Endoc and Barry, for your replies. I will get in touch and sort out visits, modelling and maybe a drink too.

A bit more work this last week.

Glazing being added to one of the DMBs, a strip of LEDs has also been added to the roof and wiring done. I also painted the inside cream.
 

Two attempts at the glazng, I didn’t get the glazing flush with the top of the windows an when I tried to nude it up all the Glue ‘n’ Glaze smeared. It did not look too bad, but I knew I would never be happy with it, so  I prized it off and started again.

 

 

Second attempt.

 

First class and no smoking transfers added.

 

 

Next it is the curtains and the interior bulkheads/doors/frames. That is ‘fun’ thinking back to the Class 120 DMU.

 

While it was drying is also decided to fix the tanker and CCT that the mice took bigger chunks out of. I decided that casting off the other end was overkill and just went for plasticard and filler. Sorry not the best photos.

 

 

 

Sanded/filed back, and one buffer replaced from a Dapol Standard 4 kit, plus a bit of a patch for the other one, that latter waiting to be sanded back. Definitely a layout wagon, the buffers might one day be replaced by cast ones on all the wagons.

 

 

 

Just filler on the old Lima CCT body. I tried adding detail by drilling holes, but it didn’t work so have filled that back in I also used a bit heated and stretched sprue bent to shape for the top edge.

 

 

 

Sorry for the poor photo, the holes filled and rivet transfers added.

 

The buffer bean and some of the underside could also do with some detailing, and maybe even flush glazed windows, which I seem to remember Shawplan do some.

 

Also, we are starting to look at possibly finding somewhere where we have a bit more space and hopefully the shed and layout being set up again, so after a slow period for modelling due to a lack of opportunity to run it, things might start moving again a bit faster.

 

Jamie

 

 

 

 

[St Enodoc]

9 minutes ago, Jamiel said:

sort out visits, drinks and maybe a bit of modelling too

Corrected.

[Jamiel]

I picked up a few things at the EM gauge North expo in Wakefield a couple of weeks ago, as well as seeing some lovely layouts. A nice chat with a few people as well. London Road models have a lovely tanker kit as well, but they sold out the first morning, so that will be something to get hold of soon. See https://www.rmweb.co.uk/topic/179635-london-road-models-new-kits/

 

One thing I got is a High Level Kits ‘Lo-Rider’ motor bogie, as recommended to me by Mike Edge.

 

I have started putting it together his weekend. A nice etch to build, very well made. There are a few variations if you wish to use Hornby or Lima mounts, but I have followed the suggestion to build the frame with all parts retained if you are using it for a kit of your own.

 

 

 

I did open out the holes for the front end gearshaft a bit too much, so I took it out to the width of the axel bushes and fitted those to the bogie frame rather than the gearshaft. It turns well, and I will just have to use a bit of packing, or the washers to hold the cogs in the correct place. I am sure it will work fine.

 

I have made the bogie uncompensated, partly as the layout doesn’t have any inclines, but I also feel that since this will mount on a pivot above the centre of the bogie that will allow for any rocking needed for good track adhesion.

I have added an extra nut on the back end of the bogie so that I can screw on an arching piece of brass to hold the bogie, copying how Steve Johnson used the Lo Rider on his Glasgow Blue Train.

http://www.stephenjohnsonrailways.co.uk/images/Class-303-Motor-Bogie.gif

 

http://www.stephenjohnsonrailways.co.uk/Class 303.htm

 

On a completely different subject, a couple of weeks ago I discovered that one of the bootleg cover artworks I had made and shared for collectors has been used for a vinyl release, but more than that was included in the rock photographer Ross Halfin’s book on collecting Led Zeppelin vinyl. I was asked by a well-known Led Zeppelin collector to make a cover in the style of ‘Sgt. Pepper’ a few years ago. I am happier about it than I look.

 

 

I did know about this artwork being used by the label Swinging Pig, and they even credited me on the cover. I did have to go to Ebay, or maybe Discogs for a copy though, which cost me a few £s at the time. Still a nice thing to own and one of my favorite artworks I have made.

 

This week was also my first anniversary of moving to Salford University to lead the BA in ‘Post Production & VFX’. It is a lovely place to work, a very supporting atmosphere and I inherited a great staff for the course. We had great student feedback at the end of the year too. It has been a very good move.

 

Anyway, more on the motor-bogie soon  and class 124.

 

Jamie

[Jamiel]

A question.

Here are photos of the motor and gears sitting in place.

 

In the instructions it says to glue the worm gears and also cogs and bushes in place using cyano/superglue.

Is cyano really OK for a brass to steel join? Won’t it dry and fail? I suspect plastic to steel will be better with cyano.

I may not be reading the instructions well, but it seems a bit unclear as to how to locate the gear shafts in place. Should I burnish the ends with hammer to spread them a little, or should I glue and pack spacers inside the frame. Plenty of spacers, both washers and plastic tube are supplied.

Any thoughts and advice would be appreciated.
 

Jamie

Edited September 3, 2023 by Jamiel

[lezz01]

I would go with loctite 601 or the modern equivalent rather than cyano.

Regards Lez. 

[lezz01]

You could also try roughing up the motor shaft a bit to get a key but you will need to factor in that it's hardened steel so a file might not work. It all depends on how much you spent of your files whether or not it will have an impression on it. The other two options would be rubbing the shaft on a grinding stone or using a diamond coated nail file. The latter is quite effective but they can be expensive but not that hard to find. I have one in an expensive manicure set that lives in my guitar case that was a crimbo pressie from wifey which I use for really hard steel, just don't tell her I use it on metal, but mostly my files are good as I spent a lot of money on my files back in the day plus my newer files are full size engineering files not the cheap ones from the local s**t shop.

Files are like shoes always spend as much as you can afford, you're going for quality not quantity. I only use cheaper files for finishing switch blades on the planning jig. I take the bulk off with a good file then switch to a cheaper one to finish it off until it starts to skate across the jig that way I don't damage the jig. A good quality file card is essential as well, always clean the file with the file card after using it on something like plastic or white metal or it will clog up and won't work properly. 

Regards Lez.  

[Barry O]

Jamie Airbus and Boeing superglue wings together...

 

Make sure the worm, gears and brass rods are clean. You can use cyano to glue the gears and worms to the brass and steel rods with care. 

 

I have a few HL gearboxes which work OK using the glue as described.

 

Baz

[Jamiel]

23 minutes ago, Barry O said:

Jamie Airbus and Boeing superglue wings together...

 

Make sure the worm, gears and brass rods are clean. You can use cyano to glue the gears and worms to the brass and steel rods with care. 

 

I have a few HL gearboxes which work OK using the glue as described.

 

Baz

Thanks Baz, that reassures me about the bogie build, but does not help my dislike if flying much!

Thanks as well Lez, all good advice.

On with the build.

[Barclay]

Hi in most H/L gearboxes the intermediate gears run freely on stationary shafts, which you can just secure on the outside with a dab of varnish or whatever. However haven't built this one so it might be different. The worms on the motor and the final gear on the axle, I agree entirely with Lezz and would use Loctite rather than superglue, but put some grease on the front of the motor so you can be 100% sure the stuff can't get into the motor bearing!

[Jamiel]

Thanks for the advice, I will glue the worms in position with Loctite.
 

A couple of photos of progress. Motor just sitting in position and the chassis with a cutout ready for motor bogie.

 

 

 

 

 

The start of term has meant a lot of time being put into work, but also, I have been quite ill for the last three weeks, including a visit to A&E, but to a large extent due to GPs not being interested in seeing their patients these days. Feeling better now.

 

Anyway, pleased with how it is going. Trying to decide if I want to put the etched brakes I have on this bogie, my gut feeling is that you wouldn’t spot them if there or not in the middle of the train. That said, there is always the problem that I would know. Which would always irk me.

[Jamiel]

Once I started putting the next pieces together it went quickly.

 

I left the PCB to set overnight glued on with Aradite.

Fitting the brakes was actually really easy and they will not foul the pickups.

Worms glued on (Loctite as advised by everyone here), it really takes quickly, I wanted to adjust one of the worms a little, but it was done. They work fine anyway.

A couple of the end plates cut to fit across the ends, and the tiny screws fit the end of the Trix outsides really well.

Very happy how it has gone. Although it is designed for Hornby or Lima bogies it adjusts to scratch building well.

Still to do, fit the pickups, cut down the bolts to fit the top mount. Make and screw on the top mount from brass strip. Then measure the depth, build and fit the bogie at the other end (with pickups added). I have to remember how the piping down the sides of the chassis fit below which changes the depth of the bogie mount a little. After that, build to chassis part of the mount, probably from the section I cut out. I do have to bear in mind that all the traction for the DMU will pass through the top pivot, so I will use wide washers to prevent it riding up and pivoting vertically around that point.

I could have done with a little more light for the photos, so have had to sharpen them a little in Photoshop, which never looks good. Still here are the photos to show today’s progress.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Enjoying this build, very grateful to Mike Edge for the recommendation. Doing the test runs of the motor, it does feel quite a powerful motor and assembly, so I will see if I can get away with just one power bogie, but will double up if necessary. I will also have pickups on all four of the centre bogies on the 6 car set, and it will run through a DCC chip.

Thanks for all the likes on the thread too. One of those lovely mornings when you suddenly see several dozen ticks as someone has browsed through a large section of the thread. A big thank you for that, and for everyone who tick or comment as the posts go up.

[Jamiel]

I have built a top mount for the bogie. As it will take the force needed to pull 6 coaches/units (unless I find I should add another drive unit in the adjacent car), a brass strip bent to shape, reinforced at the sides with brass from off-cuts box.

I filed the sides back so that they are clear of the top of the motor, and they screw into the holes designed for the compensation (which I haven’t used). The bolts were cut down with nuts in place to allow their unscrewing to re-die the threads.

 

 

The wheels have a little side play, I could add more washers if I find it is too much. The etched brakes are pulled clear to prevent shorts (hopefully).

The pickups and wiring are still to do.

 

The Trix frame is pretty much left intact, just the bottom for the wheel mountings cut away, and screwed on with the bolts provided in the High level kit.

 

The chassis mounting is made from the section cut out, bent and drilled. The protruding bolt will be cut down to size, and washers will be used to adjust the ride height.  

 

 

It all needs testing and painting, but it has been a really good build, and again thanks to Mike Edge for the recommendation and to High Level kits for the bogie kit.

Edited October 1, 2023 by Jamiel

[Jamiel]

Not great photos, sorry.

Working on the dive chassis for the Buffet car, still to do a bit of leveling. I might have to remove the patch I added to the arch over the motor, and make it a bit lower. I will also have to level out the bogie outside which is riding up a little on the far side in this photo.

 

I also think I have found a problem with the Worsley Works etches. They appear to be missing the two thin windows wither side of the back door.

 

The windows are there on the DC Kits, or maybe Silver Fox version.

 

This was already a replacement as Worsley originally sent two of the other side. I could let them know, but I suspect they might not be very happy to be asked for a second time for a replacement.

 

A partial solution would be to cut the etch and the spare at the door and patch that on the end. I have a feeling that cutting out the window from the etch is likely to result in damage, or bending to the etch. Mu gut feeling is to do the partial patch and live with k owing one window is missing.

 

Toughts?

[Richard_A]

Surely it would be fine to mention it to worsley, and negotiate from there. 

[Barclay]

Assuming it's a fault with the original artwork, I'm guessing they wouldn't have a 'correct' etch to send you anyway. I reckon the windows could be cut out with a piercing saw though, and filed carefully to shape.

[Fishplate]

Could it be that there were variations in the prototype ?

[Jamiel]

Just a post to say I am still around, not much if any modelling, other things have taken priority.

I have rewritten a bit chunk of the degree course I lead, which takes ages, and has lots of forms. Apparently you can’t just say we’ll do a bit more on the editing modules and a bit less on the self-motivated research module. You have to prove that it is all fits the outline of the course and satisfies the academic standards set for a UK degree. I’m joking, I take it all very seriously, and I love teaching on the course at Salford.

There has also been some sad news from both my and my partner’s sides of the family, so that has knocked us back a bit.

I have also been doing some artworks for vinyl releases, which has taken up all my creative energy. I can’t share them as since I’ve been paid for them, so I don’t own the copyright. I do think they are some of the best covers I have created though.

The main bit of news is that we were planning to move this year, but now that has been put back a little as we may have better funds to allow us to get somewhere much nicer and with space for the shed to go back up, and when that happens modelling can start again in earnest and Ellerby will hopefully being running again.

I suspect 3 years being stored in the garage here will mean that there will be a good amount remedial work to be done, wiring. There was a bit of track I wanted to relay, and I might also consider changing the DCC controller as I suspect there are better control systems out there now than the Gaugemaster I bought in 2008. If I stick with that, the hand controller needs a new speed potentiometer, and Gaugemaster charge to have those replaced (not part of their guarantee that everyone think exists for everything).

I will also have to check the shed is all OK and rebuild that, but this time I think I will get an electrician to do lighting and heating and might get a builder to make a proper base so there is no cold coming in from underneath.

So hopefully a big year for the layout ahead, but not much in terms of modelling but just getting it all back to where it was 3 years ago.

Jamie