Ellerby - 4mm/OO gauge - All photos working, hotlinked.

[Jamiel]

The airbrush nozzle has arrived so I can get back to the Transpennine soon, in the meantime I had begun a Parkside Fish van.

 

A much easier build than the Cambrian kit, and with finer detail on the underframe. I still have a soft spot for Cambrian kits though.

I have put the original oil axel boxes on (which you cannot see in this exposure) as I feel it will be a fish van that has strayed from main line trains. Consequently, no blue spot. I have also cut of the moulded handrails and added them with brass wire.

 

 

I will add some extra underframe details, but I think the fun with this kit will be the weathering given they vans were painted white in the period I am modelling.

Edited April 23, 2022 by Jamiel

[Jamiel]

The fish van ready for painting.

 

The Parkside kit has really fine detail for a platic kit and only a few extras have been added, above the chassis the handles from brass wire, below cross bars (extruded sprue over a candle) on the brakes and wire hangers and brake pipes, plus smith couplings which it is built as an option to use anyway.

 

Not sure if there should also be hangers for the cross bar on the brake control?

Jamie

[Jamiel]

Brush painted, transfers and some initial weathering, all with done by brush.

A bit of the weathering has broken up one part of the white side painting, but I will patch over that. Maybe a bit ‘Wet and Dry’ will be needed there.

 

The roof painting will be airbrushed over with a less green grey, to flatten the brush strokes and take the colour back. I will also airbrush weather the sides and then when initially dry use a toothbrush to give a textured weathering, then there will be another airbrush layer of weathering and finally a drybrush pass, especially on the underframe.

 

 

 

 

 

Jamie

Edited April 26, 2022 by Jamiel

[Jamiel]

The airbrush is working again.

First the fish van, a light dusting of dirty (mix of Matt31 grey, Black, tiny bit of brown Matt98).

 

Not much light for the photo, but I rubbed over the dirt airbrushing with a cotton bud dipped in thinner. In some places it took off too much and went back to the plastic.

 

Retouching with the same mix of paints with a fine brush.

 

 

 

I may give it a fine dusting again with the airbrush to pull it together a little.
 

Back to the Transpennine, another layer of green.

 

 

 

The masking tape I used was old, or cheap, or both, and left a residue.

 

I think that some very fine Wet&Dry will remove the gum at the side which has been painted over, and then probably the airbrush again. There is a little gum on the front as well, which I hope will rub off.

I’m not going to rush it at this stage, and want to get the join to the cab as good as I can. It doesn’t look bad from a distance, but I would like this to be good close up too.

Jamie

 

[Jamiel]

A bit late in the day to take photos, but here are few rough ones anyway.
 

A bit more weathering on the fish van, mostly using capillary action to fill edges. I did try to clean where the transfers are, but it just flakes the edges, so I think I will have to admit defeat there.

 

For a van that has cascaded away from the main lines and not been tended to, I felt the roof was too clean and precise. I dabbed a little Mek to break up the finish and did a little dry and very wet brushing.

 

A bit of tidy work on the cab edges. I think the low light makes them look better than they should, but still a big improvement. I just brush paitned around the gummy areas after scraping, filing and sanding off the rough build up.

 

 

The underframes have had a light all over coat of black as well. They will now be hand painted for details like the engines and buffer beams and  dry brushed for weathering.

 

Hopefully there might be better light tomorrow, and maybe time for a little work between marking end of year submissions.
 

Jamie

[delticman]

Ooh, I like the effect of the MEK on the fish van roof, I think I will try that on my disused Express Parcels SPV which is languishing in my parcels dock. Nicely recovered with the Transpennine paint finish by the way.

Geoff

[Jamiel]

Thanks Geoff.

Mek to break up paint works really well. If you do it heavily you can get a feel of tar.

 

See post:

 

Or if you do it by accident it is a real nuisance.

 

Just dabbing a little does crack up enamel paint rather nicely. Not sure if it works on other types of paint, I suspect not.

After dabbing the Mek, I used capillary action to take a little a little black paint mixed with a lot of thinner or White Spirit. I also ran a very and well used Wet&Dry over it to soften the look.
 

Jamie

Edited May 15, 2022 by Jamiel

[lezz01]

Nice work Jamie. MEK is a great weathering aid isn't it?

Regards Lez.

[Jamiel]

Small furry b****ards!

The rolling stock, and layout is stored in the garage as where we are now doesn’t have a big enough garden to set up the shed.

Unfortunately I also stored a large bag (sack) of birdseed in the garage as well, which was discovered by mice who made a home in the garage. I found most of the places they had been, and knew they had got into one of the train boxes. I can’t get to the others right now, and I hope that they were too far from the bird seed for the mice to be interested. While it is hot, I am starting clear out and reorganise the garage so will be getting to the other boxes in the next couple of weeks.

Models in their original boxes were protected by the boxes, some of which were shredded at one end.

 

The models bought loose, or built though were wrapped in bubble wrap in open boxes. It turns out that mice like chewing up bubble wrap to make nests. It also turns out that things wrapped in bubble wrap will get chewed.

 

 

There were dropping everywhere, and I think that I will have to give all the loose models a wash.

It also looks like mouse urine has stained some of the boxes, but kept the contents OK.

 

It will be interesting to see how much I can repair these. I suspect all but the one that has the big chunk chewed off, and maybe event that. A few buffers have been knocked about and the odd other detail. I will have to be more careful with packing in the future.

I will also not keep my cat locked indoors when I see mice about in future, sorry but you have blown that one, young furry individuals.

On a different subject I am working on the Transpennine again, photos hopefully soon.

Other big news, I have a new job and a promotion. From the start of September, I will be the head of course for the ‘Post Production and Visual Effects’ degree at Salford University. I am really looking forward to that.

My previous university was becoming unbearable with a bully line manager and an incompetent head of course. The latter is not just my opinion, 3 official complaints by students in the last 6 years. It was a dreadful place to work, I have seen 5 out 7 staff in my staff room leave over the 4 years I was there, and frankly the university is has dropped 60 places in the national university ranking to fourth from bottom and is starting to reinvent it self as a FE College, rather than a university. Do not send your children to De Montfort University would be my advice. There are some good staff there, but they are getting fewer and the management structure is undermining the whole place.

Anyway, Salford seems like a completely different place and I am really looking forward to starting there and having the opportunity to shape the course I will be leading. I will also get a goo bump in pay, which hopefully will mean a place with a shed sized garden in the next couple of years and more money for modelling.

Jamie

 

 

Edited July 31, 2023 by Jamiel

[Jamiel]

I had had a bright idea to fix those chewed wagons, when I next get some resin, make casts of the other ends and cast pieces to fix those missing parts.

I have the rubber solution but am currently out of resin, which I can afford when I start the new job.

Jamie

 

[Jamiel]

Repairing the two wagons that only had a bit gnawed off them with Humbrol Model Filler.

 

 

It is a technique I call ‘de-furry-ba**arding’. Good job they are heavily weathered models, and only layout wagons.
 

I have also been working on a further motor unit underframes for the Transpennines, sorry not the best photo.

 

Jamie

Edited September 24, 2022 by Jamiel

[Jamiel]

I didn’t realise it was almost two months since I had made an update.
 

The big update is that I am enjoying my new job, my head of school and line manager both seem very supportive, and I have a good team around me at Salford University. It is good to be leading a degree course and to have the opportunity to guide the direction of it too.

I also enjoyed a little schadenfreude when I saw that the university, I left this summer fell to second to bottom in the Guardian’s rankings. Who would have thought that my leaving would have had that effect? 🙂   Salford went up 4 points too.😆
 

As a lot of the summer was taken up with being stressed about contracts and extracting myself from De Montfort Uni, I didn’t do a great deal of modelling, but now I getting settled, I have started to catch up.

Repair work on the tankers. One of the chewed ends, and also a broke handle I broke off, t looks less bent, the top patch stands out more than it does in reality in the photo. Painting and weathering, and transfers for the Class Bs.
 

 

 

A different view of the two Class B’s that have been repaired, and then as I carried them out, caught one of the top walkways, which need soldering back in place.

 

One of the powered middle cars chassis under construction.

 

 

 

 

 

Not the best light for some of these photos. Some sanding and tidy work needed before undercoating.
 

Doing these underframes has made me think about what I could do to the two Hornby Class 110 DMUs I have, I think that when I get around to them, I will cut back a lot of the underframe detail and rebuild it, or at least reveal some light through the solid block that pre-2000 Hornby DMUs had for underframes. Still lots to do before I get on to that.

I asked on Tony Wright’s thread for advice on curving the brass sides for the DMU bodies. I gave some suggestions a bit of a try, but I have come to the conclusion that people use rollers for a reason. To avoid wrecking 8 etches, I am going to find someone with rollers and pay them to curve the sides.
 

Hopefully more modelling soon.
 

Jamie

 

 

[Jamiel]

 

Wow, six months have passed since my last post, sorry.

 

It has a lot to do with starting anew job as programme leader on the ‘Post Production & VFX’ degree at Salford University. I am really enjoying the job, but starting one week before term and having to take charge after the previous programme leader had retired and to pick up a course and steer it has been quite time consuming.

 

Anyway, I have not had a lot of time for modelling, but have done little bits here and there. The last coupe of weekends I have got on with the Class 124 again.

I was not overly happy with the headcode boxes on the cabs, the clear plasticard had a rough edge protruding.

 

Using the tiny strips of sprue between some of the A1 Models assorted etches, which gives nice flat strips to work with I have fashioned a couple of headcode box edges. I my still have to do a bit of work to get them to sit into the headcode box better, but I think when painted they will improve the look.

 

 

 

 

I have started a fourth underframe, Comet MK1 frame, MTK bogie etches.

 

Comet etched brakes are used, but to get them to fit the space, they have to be filed back a little as can be seen with the ones on the right.

 

I have decided that I will get the etches coach sides rolled, my attempts at following the various advice I was given didn’t get very far and I was worried about damaging them. The Worsley Works etches are thicker than the Craftsman etches I have used before for DMU models, and although I think much better, need handing more carefully, or at least using tried and tested processes.

Hopefully my next update will be much sooner.

 

Jamie

 

[St Enodoc]

6 hours ago, Jamiel said:

Using the tiny strips of sprue between some of the A1 Models assorted etches, which gives nice flat strips to work with

I always save strips like that for future use.

[Jamiel]

16 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

I always save strips like that for future use.

One piece of advice I would give to anyone starting to get into modelling would be to grab a couple of packs of the A1 Assorted Grills at an exhibition. I have got so much use of them in so many ways.

The grills on the underframe of the 124 are also from those packs. No idea what loco they were originally to be used for, but they have done me well. I have even used them for details on buildings, but the very fine strips between the grills are so useful on everything it seems.

Jamie

[Jamiel]

Working away again, more of the same. Powered chassis number 4.
 

I was about to call it a day, when I lined this up for a photo and saw that I had put the underframe detail on the wrong way around. I considered, would anyone notice. Yes, me.

It only took about 10 minutes to unsolder and reattach as it all came off in chunks, even the exhaust and attached pair of boxes (waiting for their detailing).

The underframes are the fun bit, and getting it right I worth it. I had better get on with the driving units cabs soon though, as I had everything I need for those.

More soon.

Jamie

[Jamiel]

 

Another evening’s work on the underframe, the bottom one of the two.

There are slight differences, some of which correct mistakes, some of which are a little improvisation. The Stone Heater, I think that is what it is called, was a little tight on the previous one, so I made a little space on this one

I only have casts of the mirror image Stone Heaters, so I will see if I can cut one together for the other side, as I am out of resin at the moment.

Having fun modelling again.

Jamie

[Jamiel]

The other side, at the bottom.



Progressing nicely I feel, even the hacked together Stone Heater next to the battery box.

I think once painted and under the carriage sides it will all look OK.

Jamie

[Jamiel]

I hadn’t taken well (adequately) lit photos of the two Class 120 driving units, so to start here are a few.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The corridor connectors will need cutting back, and the lighting cables to join between cars need painting but hopefully will look like vacuum pipes but the layout has been packed away for a couple of years so I want to test it running before feeling it is finished.

 

Progress on the Class 124 Transpennine now.
 

I decided against the brass frames for the headcode boxes as I felt they masked too much of the centre, so have filed the edges with very fine Evergreen strip, cut back with a scalpel and a little model filler. They will still need a bit of careful sanding before painting, but I feel keep the proportions better.

 

 

Here are a few views of one of the driving unit taken in natural light, slow but careful progress.

 

The inner ends how the hacking away at the MK1 coach bodies, but when placed back to back and with a bit of sooty weathering I think these parts will not be noticeable.

 

 

The underframes for the two motor second brakes.

 

 

 

Seating for one of the driving units and panels between the different sections of seating.

 

The brown seats are cut from Replica Railways MK1 coach open interiors, and I get some boxes to use as goods somewhere eon the layout.

 

A few purchases from yesterday’s York Model Railway show, my first show since before the pandemic.

 

 

Fantastic after sales service from SLW for their class 124, new windows. Huge thanks to Phil for those, and a lovely chat, even though I am a one time only buyer so far. The new Class 25/3s look a amazing too.

 

Digi Trains 2pin connectors and Langley Models chimney pots, some great stuff on their stand.

 

I also bought vol 31 of the Railways Memories series, Retford etc. by Bellcode.

 

I really enjoyed the exhibition, talked to Mike Edge and Tony Wright as well as chats on a few stands, A1 and Langley Models in particular.

 

Some great layouts, especially Chapel en le Frith, by Leeds MRS I remember when that was all just fields, well plywood baseboards.

 

I did miss some old the past regular traders. I knew Wizard were stopping doing shows, as I had a chat last time they were there, they do fine with the website, and the fuss of packing everything up for a few days every couple of weeks was no longer worth it.

 

Sadly, Eileen’s Emporium are now gone. Shawplan, Replica Railways and Phoenix Precision Paints were not there either. I know all can be accessed on-line, but it did make the show seem a little thinner.

 

Sorry for the long post, but at least I have had a productive weekend of modelling, and also gardening, the latter less rewarding.

 

Jamie

Edited April 9, 2023 by Jamiel

[mullie]

The 120s look excellent,  the trans pennines starting to look really good too. A really interesting build. 

 

I know what you mean about getting hold of parts, paints too, can be frustrating at times. 

 

Thanks for the update. 

 

Martyn 

[Jamiel]

Photographed close up is a bit harsh on the headcode box detail, but from a normal viewing distance I think it is looking OK. Needs a little more tidying, and a fine wash of lack/dark grey to tint off the edges that can be seen.

 

I think it looks better than the brass frame I built though. I have done a first coat of off-white inside and some also some wood edge painting around the door. More to do on that.

I have cut the curved cab windows, but feel they are a 'get it right first-time' or make them again thing, so I am finding anything else to do rather than fit them, and I will fit the windscreen wipers just before doing the windows to protect them. Nearly there though for that step.

 

 

For the people inside the units I tried casting them in resin. I discovered that the kind of small detail and shapes you get on people often create bubbles that don’t fill, without the kind of pressure injection use for plastic kits, or a grater level of resin skill than I have. Consequently a lot are missing bits of their heads, or arm details. I have started filling the bits with model filler, although some feel more like characters from ‘The Thing’ (1982 film), I will hide them inside where they will only form silhouettes.

 

Interior panels being painted as well, and some with seats added.

 

The driver is one of the better resin casts, although before taking a photo this close I didn’t see the very small bubbles or the Kirk Douglas chin cleft. A bit of sanding and I think he will look OK. It seems a waste to cut one of the plastic characters in half.

 

Tiny steps forward, but at least I am modelling again, well until students submissions and marking in a couple of week’s time.

[lezz01]

If you vibrate the mould when you fill it with resin it will stop that issue with bubbles. You can use an old electric toothbrush or a multi tool. So you just turn on your weapon of choice and just touch the mould to the top of it for 20-30 seconds and that should get the bubbles out or if you have an ultrasonic cleaning bath just use that but you have to empty the fluid out and dry it first. The other thing you can do is fill your moulds and put them in a vacuum chamber and lower the air pressure inside a bit, it doesn't need to be a total vacuum you just need to lower the pressure and that will work really well.

Regards Lez. 

[lezz01]

Before anyone gets excited about vacuum chambers you can buy them brand spanky new for around £60 and if you do a lot of casting then they are well worth the cost and will pay for them selves in giving you perfect castings every time. If you don't want to spend that sort of money then buy and old pressure cooker and fit an appropriate valve. You will need a pump as well but you can buy a 12v vacuum pump for around a fiver.

Regards Lez. 

[lezz01]

Ok so how to build a vacuum chamber on the cheap.

1, buy or scrounge a second hand pressure cooker.

2, remove the valve.

3, replace the valve with an air line fitting to the size of your vacuum hose.

4, attach the vacuum hose to the fitting with a jubilee clip. 

5, attach a one way/ non return valve to the vacuum hose. You can get one of these in plastic from your friendly neighbourhood pet shop or one in stainless steel from a car spares shop. These come in various sizes from around 6mm to 12mm. They have an arrow on them to denote the direction of air flow. have it pointing away from the pressure cooker.

6, add another bit of hose to the other side of the valve and attach this to either a vacuum pump and run for 15-20 seconds or just suck the hose a few times to lower the pressure and you have yourself a vacuum chamber.

Not fancy I grant you but if you do a lot of casting then it's worth it's weight in gold. 

Regards Lez. 

[Jamiel]

Something I have been putting off for ages, but now have made a start, glazing the cab windows.

 

The one you see below is the third or fourth one cut for this place. First on was OK, but then I lost it. Next one fairly good but I realised that the bottom edge had to slope up a little to take in account of the angle in at the top of the sides. Next one scrapped in the rough stage, and now this one.

 

All cut from the curved edge of a Barbie box, courtesy of my daughter.

 

There are tiny notches to allow for the back of the under window grab handles protruding a little.

 

This is one piece covering the middle and left side window, one is cut ready for the right side. That too may get more versions until I am completely happy with it.

 

I painted a thin line of black around the inner edge of the window space, with enamel. I also ran a black marked along the edge of the glazing as well to try and avoid prism lighting on the edges.

 

Using Glue ‘n’ Glaze to fix, and held with croc clips from my modelling thingy. I also used a cocktail stick dipped in a little  Glue ‘n’ Glaze in a bottle top to add a little glue around the edges.

 

Paper wound round to stop scratching.

 

When editing the photo, I saw some Glue ‘n’ Glaze had dripped on the lamp holder. I quickly got a scalpel and peeled it off while still tacky. It was all over that lower edge.

 

Leaving this for an hour to make sure it is really set before adding the right window.

 

Jamie