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Screw link Couplings


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  • RMweb Gold

Can anyone give me some tips on keeping these assembled when in use as mine seem to fall apart at the first sign of use and its driving me mad.Is it possible to solder the legs to keep them secure perhaps.

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Can anyone give me some tips on keeping these assembled when in use as mine seem to fall apart at the first sign of use and its driving me mad.Is it possible to solder the legs to keep them secure perhaps.

 

Smiths for trains of 3 or 4 wagons. Romford if you want to hang any weight behind the loco.

Merf.

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Hi Robin, As Merf says, the Romfords are good if you want to pull a lot, but are a bit chunky.

 

I like the look of the Smiffs better, and FWIW I glue all my loco screwlinks solid discretely with superglue so they can't be used. 3 links are easy to drop in for multi-working, and the wagon 3 link strength isn't an issue.

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Hi Robin, As Merf says, the Romfords are good if you want to pull a lot, but are a bit chunky.

 

I like the look of the Smiffs better, and FWIW I glue all my loco screwlinks solid discretely with superglue so they can't be used. 3 links are easy to drop in for multi-working, and the wagon 3 link strength isn't an issue.

 

Similar method here too.

I super glue the "eyes" in the centre of the coupling but NOT the shackle to the hook, I can still use the coupling, effectively as a single link working coupling.

 

Cheers!

Frank

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I've not experienced a problem with these on freights up to 22 wagons - admittedly quite light wagons around 30g each. Presumably the difficulty you're having is the end pieces coming away from the middle on the little points that stick out. I'd suggest you try forming the end pieces round something curved so that they effectively have to be sprung open a bit to fit over the little points on the central piece, in effect making the end pieces into something like an omega shape. This should help them to grip as firmly as possible whilst allowing rotation around the central piece.

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  • RMweb Gold

Re the opening problem.

 

I squeeze the hoop part with pliers to close it up (at the eyes), I find they are typically very loose and can pull off the etched piece, squeezing them cures the issue and still leaves them moderately flexible.

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  • RMweb Gold

The thing is with the Smiths product is that the etching on the spigots on the centre pieces seems to be variable. Having said that, I've had nearly 40 pretty heavy (50 - 60g+) P4 wagons on the DRAG test track, with one of these couplings near the front taking all the weight of the rest of the train, and no problems at all. I really don't like the overscale appearance of the Markits couplings (OK, that's my personal view), so for assured strength, I'd use the Masokits ones. I've assembled a few of these in my time, and as PMP says (and shows), they do look great.

 

I've also found the Markits ones to be quite stiff and lacking in flexibility, making them a bit awkward to reliably couple with a coupling hook under exhibition conditions.

 

Bear in mind, however, that despite the scale or near-scale appearance of the Exactoscale and Masokits products, coupling and uncoupling with these under exhibition conditions isn't everyone's cup of tea!...

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