Ressaldar Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 Hi all, just to get things 'rolling' on this side of the forum, a few pictures showing the (lack of) clearance between the shock absorber plates and the underside of the nose bodywork - resulting in tilting the rear of the bogie upwards when the body is screwed down onto the chassis and thus causing severe riding and steering problems. I will be trying out differing thicknesses of 'washer plates' on top of the pivot plate to overcome the situation and at the same time, add some (I feel) much needed weight to the bogie chassis to smooth out the riding characteristics. Also considering adding flywheels to the motors as an experiment. I would welcome responses on any of the comments made above. No 1 end No 2 end No 2 end regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
clemf Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 Are the axles fixed or sprung? You may have to watch for one set being lifted off the track whilst trying to square things up. I could be talking rot as I've never built a diesel but I keep getting tempted when I see the pictures of them being built. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted December 13, 2009 Author Share Posted December 13, 2009 Hi clemf, as things are at the moment, the centre axles are 'free floaters' but I will be putting a phosphor wire spring on them tomorrow to reduce the float. The outer drive axles are all fixed and the pony truck has a built in damping arrangement and a prototypical radial action - essential with such a long fixed wheelbase as I found out earlier - it will not stay on track laid at 6' radius, but has no bother with the pony truck insitu. regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancer1027 Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 Well Mike, its coming along a treat Good stuff mate. Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 That's better here rather than them blog things. Looking good Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted December 13, 2009 Author Share Posted December 13, 2009 Hi Rob & Brian, It feels better here than on a BLOG! Hopefully another update tomorrow afternoon. regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Dyson (onslaught832) Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 I must admit I much prefer these workbench threads to blogs :icon_thumbsup2: . The 40 is progressing nicely Mike :icon_e_wink: Cheers Phill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 are the whitemetal tanks catching on the inside of the bogie? I took an inner one off and mine runs great now. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted December 14, 2009 Author Share Posted December 14, 2009 Good morning Mike, good point. I will check the clearances at the rear of the bogie after I have experimented with the bearing plaate packing. I had noticed that one of the bogies was 'a bit adjacent' as they say so it may be even closer than I thought. regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 Looking good Mike, I will have a go at a JLTRT kit one day, they look great. Cheers Peter, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted December 14, 2009 Author Share Posted December 14, 2009 Hi Phil and Pete, thanks for the comments. I am pleased with things so far, my only real criticism is the instructions in as much as they are too general. I'm doing nearly all of the detailing from David Clarke's Deisels in Depth - Class 40 book - absolutely essential in my opinion. Also the Modern Locomotives Illustradted Number 179. On the JLTRT website there are 'additional instructions' for the 40, I feel sorry for those modellers who don't have access to the internet as these should be included with the kit. Will be looking into the bogie clearance/running problem today and hopefully get back to detailing soon. regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted December 14, 2009 Author Share Posted December 14, 2009 Hi all, got into the workshop later than planned due to not putting the heat on early enough However, made up a pair of 20thou plate washers to fit over the bogie swivel plate and then found that I had no M4 nuts in stock M4 nylok nuts are supplied in the kit together with sprung washers but that combination does not give a good 'earthing' to the electrical circuit that I have adopted - hence the ordinary nuts and washers. I then decided to sleeve the M4 holes in the chassis as the bogie was already showing signs of rocking to and fro and cut pieces of 3.75 id tube (just over interference fit on the bolt) to fit flush on the underside and just proud on top for a washer to bear on. By the time that these were fitted, it was lunchtime. Decided to go to B&Q to get the nuts and some washers after lunch and upon my return, was diverted by the Boss onto some Christmas duties, so no pictures until tomorrow - perhaps. regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted December 15, 2009 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 15, 2009 Hi all, got into the workshop later than planned due to not putting the heat on early enough However, made up a pair of 20thou plate washers to fit over the bogie swivel plate and then found that I had no M4 nuts in stock M4 nylok nuts are supplied in the kit together with sprung washers but that combination does not give a good 'earthing' to the electrical circuit that I have adopted - hence the ordinary nuts and washers. I then decided to sleeve the M4 holes in the chassis as the bogie was already showing signs of rocking to and fro and cut pieces of 3.75 id tube (just over interference fit on the bolt) to fit flush on the underside and just proud on top for a washer to bear on. By the time that these were fitted, it was lunchtime. Decided to go to B&Q to get the nuts and some washers after lunch and upon my return, was diverted by the Boss onto some Christmas duties, so no pictures until tomorrow - perhaps. regards Mike Mike, I am suprised the nyloc do not give you a good enough electric path, there should only be a small ring of nylon at the top of the nut, the rest is plain old metal just as a normal nut in fact all the mechanical strength is in the nut, the nylon just grips about one thread width to stop creep (as you of course already know). Hopefully I will get a good start on my JLTRT40 this holiday, I am ashamed to say having had the kit about 2 months I have not had the time to glue one part, just a bit of smoothing off and rubbing down. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted December 15, 2009 Author Share Posted December 15, 2009 Hi Dave, I'ts not taken very long to get to this stage, so you will probably be ready for painting come Boxing Day I have now re-assembled the chassis and body and despite having put the 20 thou washer in, there was still contact on the shock absorbers, so it all came apart again and for experimentaion purposes, I put two M4 washers on each plate, re-assembled again and achieved reasonably good running on my little test track, so it's down to the club again tonight hopefully for a long running session - bearing in mind that I am one shock absorber plate missing at present, hopefully an envelope will arrive tomorrow morning from north of the border. In the mean time I have put the wire handrails on the noses and roof and a couple of the disc catches on each nose, door catches and lamp irons to follow tomorrow. The buffer beam pipes, open discs, MU jumpers, windscreen wipers etc. have all been primed ready for painting and fitting after the main body painting is complete and the control desk and cab rear have also been primed ready for detail painting. So all in all and subject to a successful running session tonight, not far to go to the finish line. No 1 end right side Roof detail No 1 end nose detail As far as the electrics are concerned, I have now simplified matters (photo to follow) and will probably be reverting to the nylok arrangement, subject to tonight's trials. regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 just something to think about, dont want to throw a spanner in the works. a tip that Brian said, that was usefull and may be worth looking at before going further is fitting the buffers, Brian said its easier to fit the buffers before the bufferbeam is glued to the bogie sides as the buffer nut catches the inside. so when the buffer is in and the nut soldered on you can file grind a bit of the nut away, only problem is you look like youve stuck the bufferbeam on already. so maybe file away at where the nuts going to be. I did it too but ended up pulling the bufferbeam off mine that I already glued as it was a bit tricky to do but it wasnt stuck very well anyway, I araldited the bufferbeams back on as theyre gonna take up some stress. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted December 16, 2009 Author Share Posted December 16, 2009 Hi Mike, thanks for reminding me, I had seen Brian's tip, but I had already decided to glue the buffers in as I see no point in making them sprung - just something I nearly always do. I had also given thought to the bogie side/buffer beam connection as being a 'weak link in the chain' scenario - just a shear connection, so I will also be applying epoxy to the inside at these points as you never know what might be put behind locos at running nights! I had the trial run at the club last night and again, no very successful - until I took the body off and applied a reasonable amount of weight along the chassis and then it ran perfectly so I'll be gluing in some weight this morning and have another trial this afternoon at the club. Then it's fitting the 4 remaining sandboxes (when they are delivered) and associated pipework then all of the remaining details and painting. regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcazar Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 OK, maybe this is daft, but I'm sure I read somewhere that WAGON couplings were arranged to pass the load through the wagon chassis somehow, so that rather than PULLING the "front" bufferbeam off, the pulled the OPPOSITE one on tighter? Could a similar arrangement be applied to a resin bogie? Or even to the centre part? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted December 16, 2009 Author Share Posted December 16, 2009 Hi Alcazar, thanks for your suggestion but I do not think that it would be a 'goer' in this instance as the pony truck casting would be in the way. I will try the epoxy and keep my fingers crossed. I am not aware of any problems arising from this arrangement, but thought that some from of mechanical joint between the sides and the buffer beam could have been incorporated into the design to minimise the problem in the first place. regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marsa69 Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 Hi Mike that is coming together quite nicely. What's the livery going to be? Green, blue or large logo? :icon_lol: I take it green judging by the nose end ladders and indicators? best regards, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted December 16, 2009 Author Share Posted December 16, 2009 Hi Mark, yes - Green, as built. Eventually had a successful trial this afternoon, after adding even more weight to the chassis. So if the outstanding sandboxes and the replacement shock absorber pad arrive tomorrow, everything that should be in place prior to painting will be on, and the post painting bits will be painted in eager anticipation! regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Dyson (onslaught832) Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 Hi Mark, yes - Green, as built. Eventually had a successful trial this afternoon, after adding even more weight to the chassis. So if the outstanding sandboxes and the replacement shock absorber pad arrive tomorrow, everything that should be in place prior to painting will be on, and the post painting bits will be painted in eager anticipation! regards Mike I will look forward to seeing the loco painted, especially if it's weathered as nicely as the 47 in your avatar :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: Cheers Phill :icon_thumbsup2: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancer1027 Posted December 17, 2009 Share Posted December 17, 2009 Hi Mike, i agree i'm also looking forward to seeing it painted . Shame its not in banger blue though . Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted December 17, 2009 Author Share Posted December 17, 2009 Hi Phill & Mark, It will only have the slightest hint of weathering as I am always being ribbed that none of the locos I build are ever in a pristine state As for a 'bluey' I am giving serious thought to taking one of Mr Parkins Whistlers (if Father Christmas gets my letter in time) - split headcode 40135 on one side and 97406 on the other and the dirt that went with it. But next up will be 47366 - The Institution of Civil Engineers - Heljan + headlights finished in Railfreight Grey. Thanks for the encouragement lads. regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-UnitMad Posted December 17, 2009 Share Posted December 17, 2009 I must admit I much prefer these workbench threads to blogs :icon_thumbsup2: . At the risk of posting a dreaded "Me Too" post; I think that's the general concensus isn't it...? Particularly it seems among the 7mm group where modelling is just that- actual modelling, with lots of input into threads from a lot of members, not just whoever's thread it is... if that makes sense... These JLTRT kits do look absolutely superb, you have to admit... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted December 17, 2009 Author Share Posted December 17, 2009 Hi Jordan, much cosier here don't you think? As for the JLTRT kits, yes they are good, but in my opinion, vastly overpriced, mainly I think by incorporating lots of detail as finished panels and speed of construction. As I said above, the MMP kit might be a better build as far as I am concerned, especially as I like building brass/nickel silver kits and being retired, take my time and enjoy the modelling. It will be interesting to see what price the Class 14 is when it is introduced by JLTRT next year - will it be the same as all of the others? A bit of Henry Ford coming out possibly - you can have any kit you like - so long as the price is the same! best wishes Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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