Jack P Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Hey all - Changed the thread to questions, queries and info on MN's Tims thread - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/55170-joining-the-merchant-navy Grahams guide - http://www.semgonline.com/model/mnvar.html Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Golden Arrow Productions do a resin body kit to fit Hornby WC/BoB/MN chassis. 30 were built in four batches: 21C1 and 21C2 were the prototypes followed by a production batch for 21C3 - 10 (these 10 are usually counted as one batch), followed by batch numbered 21C11 to 21C20. All of these were renumbered in BR days to 35001 to 35020 in consecutive order. After nationalisation, BR continued the build with the last batch of 10, 35021 to 35030. Each batch had several visual differences, with several extra modifications done during their lives until rebuilding in the later 1950s. 35028 'Clan Line' was the last rebuilt, in 1959 (from memory). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham_Muz Posted April 6, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 6, 2012 Further details on the 'Original' Merchant Navys and models built from Millholme kits can be found here on my blog. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hale Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 The easiest route for an original MN is the Golden Arrow Productions kit, the Crownline/PDK is not an option that I would recommend due to its complexity and accuracy. If you can be patient, I will be featuring the build of a GAP kit, the loco will be 35023 Holland Afrika Line in the same condition that I first saw it at Salisbury in the 50's. The build will show the all the parts needed to build the loco including gathering all the information including photos, old articles and plans. At the moment we have parts from Hornby, GAP, Jackson-Evans, Albert Goodall and Markits. The build will first be featured here http://timhalesblog.blogspot.co.uk/ and then a blog on RMweb. Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonseasider Posted April 16, 2012 Share Posted April 16, 2012 the Crownline/PDK is not an option that I would recommend due to its complexity and accuracy. OK - "complexity" I understand, "accuracy" I don't. Are you suggesting you wouldn't recommend it because it is an accurate rendition of the prototype, which is what you've said but which would seem to be a very strange comment, or because it isn't as accurate as it could/should be, which is what you may have meant, but haven't actually said? Secondly (assuming that my interpretation of your intentions, as stated above, is correct, would you please enlighten us less-knowledgeable mortals as to why you think the Golden Arrow body a better starting point than the Millholme kit. Ta muchly. Graham Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted April 16, 2012 Author Share Posted April 16, 2012 I will be VERY interested to see that! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZ Posted April 16, 2012 Share Posted April 16, 2012 OK - "complexity" I understand, "accuracy" I don't. Are you suggesting you wouldn't recommend it because it is an accurate rendition of the prototype, which is what you've said but which would seem to be a very strange comment, or because it isn't as accurate as it could/should be, which is what you may have meant, but haven't actually said? Secondly (assuming that my interpretation of your intentions, as stated above, is correct, would you please enlighten us less-knowledgeable mortals as to why you think the Golden Arrow body a better starting point than the Millholme kit. Ta muchly. Graham I think the PDK kit is fairly complex for relative beginners in kit building, this in part to it's accuracy, if you get what I mean. As for the Golden Arrow body kit, well this is available, unlike the Millholme version. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hale Posted April 16, 2012 Share Posted April 16, 2012 Just an update to the above link to the Merchant Navy - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/55170-joining-the-merchant-navy/ There are a few notes on tender variations and the basic list of the bits needed. The build will include some upgrades to the Golden Arrow kit in an attempt to build an accurate model using readily available items. Hope this helps. Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hale Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Which Hornby MN's ran with short (smaller) tenders and which had the larger tenders? and Could someone be so kind as to provide images of both, please? Thank you Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon020 Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Tenders a bit of a minefield... but the 6000gal ones were introduced to the third series (21-30)... the axle spacing on the tender being extended from centre to rear axle by 6" (If I remember correctly - it's been a while since I looked at this) Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 .... the 6000gal ones were introduced to the third series (21-30)... the axle spacing on the tender being extended from centre to rear axle by 6" (If I remember correctly - it's been a while since I looked at this) Series III tenders had a wheelbase of 7'4" x 7'0" Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hale Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Tenders a bit of a minefield... but the 6000gal ones were introduced to the third series (21-30)... the axle spacing on the tender being extended from centre to rear axle by 6" (If I remember correctly - it's been a while since I looked at this) Jon Actually it is a little more complicated as some third locos had long and short tenders and I really want to know which tenders are fitted to which Hornby loco so that I can identify a short wheelbase tender and order it for the GAP kit. Thank you Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon020 Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Ivan.. Yes sorry... originals were 6'6"... latters as you say. As for which with which.... I just scanned through "The Tender Trap" chapter of the book of the Merchant Navy pacifics by Richard Derry (a Brit Railways Illus Special)... and yes... best not go into details here. As for which Hornby one has which ????? The small ones have equally spaced axles.... 6000gals ones don't. Close inspection might be the only answer... sorry. Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham_Muz Posted May 15, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 15, 2012 Tim My table on the Semg website here should be a good starting point. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brake Compo Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Can I suggest either Bradley's Locomotives of the Southern Railway Part 2 (often held by leading railway book dealers & frequently come up on eBay), this gives all details of tender swaps and rebuids, or else Fry's Bullied Power: The Merchant Navy Class, which has both a chapter dedicated to the contorted story of MN tenders and a potted history of each member of the class. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hale Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Graham, Just what I needed, thank you Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vardnoodleblast Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 A simple solution to 'un-rebuild' a re-built Series 2 and 3 tender is to simply adhere a sheet brass overlay on the Hornby tender side. Series 1's can be done the same way but the sweeping curves on the body are a little more challenging. Having built a Series 1 (35004 in the BR blue livery) using a re-wheeled MN chassis, stretched WC body, spliced in MN cab, brass sheet smoke defelectors and a tender based on the Hornby Series 2 tender modified as noted above, I'm now working on a second Series 1 (35008, BR Green) using the GAP kit which is saving a lot of work! Again I've spliced in a Hornby MN cab and substituted brass sheet deflectors. The chassis is also an MN type with wheels swopped with a WC/BB unrebuilt. By swopping the MN's wheels and valve gear onto the WC/BB chassis I have the basis of another project. That is to put it under the body of a Wrenn WC/BB and adorn same with Crownline detailing parts that I bought with great intent about 25 years ago! Waste not, want not! For reference material I would add Locomotives in Detail, 1, Bulleid 4-6-2 Merchant Navy Class by R.J. Harvey (Ian Allan) ISBN0-7110-3013-8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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