West Kirby Town: narrow gauge is coming to town.

[bobster]

Hi Bob.

 

I don't know what system Pete's locos use, but I suspect the better hauling power is due to extra weight and the distribution of the weight evenly over the driving axles.  My 50 is just as it comes built from the kit.  The only extra weight is the chip and 2 speakers, which really aren't that heavy at all.  Even the ABC gears and motor are pretty light.

 

Maybe Steve (Fay) could offer a bit more insight - as he's said, his locos have had a fair testing on Pete's layout.

 

Rod

 

Hi Rod

 

Thanks for the Info - I am hoping to have a JLTRT Cl 50 built soon, which sound chip and speakers are you using. 

 

Cheers.

Bob.

[Dmudriver]

Hi Rod

 

Thanks for the Info - I am hoping to have a JLTRT Cl 50 built soon, which sound chip and speakers are you using. 

 

Cheers.

Bob.

Hi Bob.

 

At the moment it's got a Loksound v3.5 XL chip with 2 x 40mm speakers.  The sound is by South West Digital.  I say "at the moment" because I'm gradually moving to v4 chips, but this one is really good and there's no urgency to change it just yet.

 

Rod

[Dmudriver]

Hi all.

 

As the revised thread title suggests, I've changed tack (as I said I was planning to!) and have started weathering the 4-car DMU.  I've taken a couple of pics just to show how it's going.  The first is of the power cars: a contrast between untouched (bottom) and weathered:

 

 

The next is of the trailer cars - similar positioning:

 

 

The photos show up one or two blemishes - where the paint is maybe a bit thin - but in reality they're not obvious at all.  I think it's the close lighting that does it.

 

I have to say I'm rather happy with it.  As I've said before, I've not done much weathering previously - the 3-car 108 was the first - but I feel I'm getting the hang of it.  I'd heard about dry brushing before - now I'm doing it!!  Certainly, the weathering makes the underframe and fittings stand out so much more. 

 

However, now it's "own up" time: what I'm waiting for (and dreading!!) is for a DMU afficianado to tell me that's not a 115 underframe.  Problem is, I know it isn't!!!  When I got the kits, neither Shawn nor I had underframe pictures or drawings, so we decided to go with the 116/117 underframes.  Sacrilege, I suppose, but practical!!  Maybe in the future I'll remedy it, but for now I hope the effect is acceptable.  As I've said before - as per Eric Morecambe "All the right notes, just in the wrong order" so with this, pretty well all the right bits of equipment - just in the wrong places!!!

 

I suppose it's not as bad as 5' driving wheels on an LMS Duchess, but certainly equivalent to getting all the pipework and valve gear wrong!!!  I'll just have to hope there's no 115 owners at Nailsea!!!

 

Rod

 

Edit: to add:  Yes, there is a window missing in the unweathered trailer car - it's fallen in!!  That will be remedied.

Edited March 7, 2014 by Dmudriver

[bobster]

Looks good Rod - Certainly brings out the detail.

 

Cheers, Bob.

[Dmudriver]

Hi all.

 

As the revised title says, I've finished weathering the 115.  I've not put any pictures on here as the other 2 vehicles are done them same way as those pictured in previous posts.  However, I have  had a bit of a "playday" today.  I took some pictures so thought I'd share them.  There's 8 altogether, so I'll do them in 2 posts.

 

I'd said previously that I wanted a running session to check the platform and to check my stock before the exhibition next weekend: so, here's the first pic.  Taken on the platform with the 115 on the left (platform 2) and the Mark 1s in platform 1.

 

 

Some comments: 1)  the paving is only laid down, not glued yet and I didn't see the piece not lying flat when I took the pic; 2)  there is a window missing in one of the Mark 1s (it's fallen inside).  I knew it was there, but had forgotten!! I put the coach that way round as I don't see that side normally; 3)  the platform edging is a bit wavy near the middle of the 115.  It's not that obvious from the normal viewpoint but I'll see what I can do later.  However, the plus - and major - point is that the platform is at an adequate height and at a proper distance from the track and no stock catches on it.  So, the next job will be to screw it down and surface it.

 

In the next pic, a 37 had arrived in one of the sidings with a parcels train: the driver's in a hurry - he's shut it down, turned off the lights and gone for a brew while the shunter does his stuff.

 

 

A problem with trying to get pictures from different angles is that it often shows things that are usually not seen.  Here it's the methods of lighting the lamps on the buffer stops: on the left hand one I put the resistor right next to the LED - on the other, the resistor is closer to the feed so the back of the buffer beam is neater.  Again, however, from the normal viewpoint, they look the same.

 

The third picture shows the situation from the other end of the stock:

 

 

 

and, in the fourth, the 03 shunter has got the road to go and couple up to the parcels vans:

 

 

More pics in the following post.

 

Rod

[Dmudriver]

Part 2!

 

And there's 5 pictures, not 4!!  The first shows the shunter having got to the rear of the vans and cleared the main line, the 115 leaves:

 

 

As soon as the 115's gone, the shunter pulls the parcels vans out onto the Up Main and once held at the ground signals (44/36) the Thumper is signalled into the platform vacated by the 115:

 

 

The electric light in the rear windscreen has failed, so the guard has put an oil lamp on the rear of the unit.  (Actually, the light is an LED and I'm sure the chip has gone: the LED works if I apply DC power to the wheels, but the chip won't respond on the programming track - I checked it as I thought I might have inadvertently changed the address.)

 

Next arrival is a 50, light engine, to take the Mark 1s.  That's signalled into an occupied platform 1:

 

 

A while later, after the Thumper has gone to a storage siding and another blue 115 has arrived in platform 2, the 50 is given the road:

 

 

Finally, a Class 33 arrives light engine for the inspection saloon and is signalled directly into the sidings:

 

 

It's a busy little station, this!!!

 

What did I learn today?   First of all, the sun might have been shining and yesterday might have been the hottest day so far this year, but the air was very cold today!!!  [still enjoyed my "playday", though!!]  Second, the platform is fit for purpose and so I'll carry on with that soon.  Third, the layout is difficult to operate with 3 rakes of loco-hauled stock (1 x Mark 1 rake and 2 x parcels rakes);  the maximum will be 2 loco-hauled rakes from now on.  Fourth, coupling and uncoupling in platform 2 (the far one) is for emergencies only!!  I said in an earlier post that the plan was not to use it for that, but I thought I'd try it, just to be sure.  I'm now sure!!  Fifth, the signalling takes some thinking about to do it properly, which is what I want to do, but it will come with practice: some moves I can do by memory now so I'm getting there.  Sixth, and finally, some work needs doing on one DMU and a couple of locos before the weekend - the DMU has lost a window and the driver's desk in one cab has come loose: the locos just need lubricating.

 

So, that's it for today.  I hope it's interesting.  One thing the photos do impress on me is that I need to get going on the scenery,  but I need to plant the 2 outer signals first and ballast the main line to the fiddle yard after the platform.  I console myself that the journey is as satisfying as the arrival  - and I'm certainly enjoying it.

 

If anyone is at the Nailsea exhibition this coming weekend, I'll be operating on "Apethorne Junction".  Come and say hello - it would be nice to put faces to names.

 

More soon.

 

Rod

 

 

[two tone green]

Hi Rod, see you at Nailsea and hopefully will be having a go on Apethorne as well if things work out.

 

Your layout is looking good. Nice photos with some very good angels giving some realistic shots. The platforms are working out well for you.

[shanks522]

Hi Rod,

 

 The layout is looking great and i really enjoyed the last set of photo's, nice to see fully operational signalling. 

 

 

Graham.

[bobster]

115 DMU Looks great Rod - Nice stock you have there - Look forward to more updates.

 

Cheers, Bob.

[Dmudriver]

"Hi Rod, see you at Nailsea and hopefully will be having a go on Apethorne as well if things work out."

 

Sounds intriguing, Two Tone!!  See you there, hopefully.

 

Rod

[pwr]

Best set of pics so far. It's really coming together now.

 

Fantastic work

 

Paul R

[Dmudriver]

Hi all.

 

Had a good weekend in Nailsea:  I didn't see much of the rest of the show as I was quite heavily involved on the layout - Apethorne Junction.  It was good to meet, and chat to, Two Tone Green, too.

 

Have made some more progress on my layout today:  I've screwed the platforms down!!  No photos as they'll be the same as previously but with a few screw heads visible!!!  I've not started on the paving yet, but after some test runs just to make sure the platform is still in the right place (also an excuse for a bit of a play!!!!), I glued a few pieces of paving down with a) Glue 'n' fix (Evostick/Bostick as was!!) and B) PVA just to see which works best in sticking the plasticard to timber.  Also superglued a couple of pieces to the resin platform edging to check that.  Results tomorrow.

 

Thanks for the "likes" and positive comments about the photos and the layout.  I'll keep the photos coming.

 

More soon.

 

Rod

 

Edited to try and take out the smiley - how it got there, I don't know!!  Attempt unsuccessful!!  For the smiley, read b, followed by a half bracket!!

Edited March 19, 2014 by Dmudriver

[two tone green]

Hi Rod,

 

Looking forward to reading your test results on what is the best method to stick the paving down. Still got to do mine and I can learn from your efforts

[Dmudriver]

Hi all.

 

First of all, the test results:  the superglue works really well sticking the plastic to the resin platform edges, so that will be used.  Both the PVA and the impact adhesive had worked - both pieces were stuck down and didn't drop off when I turned the piece of wood over.  The impact-fixed piece wouldn't move at all, but when I put my finger nail under the PVA-fixed piece, it just sprang off.  So, I'll be using the impact adhesive, although the disadvantage is that if you get some on top of the plastic, it won't come off.  Great care will be called for.

 

No other work done on the platform today as I've been concentrating on fettling my Heljan Class 31 which has 2 problems. 

 

The first was that the loco had lost half of its pickup capability (both sides of one bogie) due to 1) a wire soldered to the tab behind the screw which holds the pickup wire in place being broken and 2) the tab not making contact with the pickup wire.  Solution: to solder the pickup wire to the tab (both sides) and resolder the loose wire. 

 

The second is that one of the 2 gear wheels in each bogie was not turning the gear train so the drive was to 2 axles out of 4 on the loco only.  Solution: fit 2 replacement gear wheels from Howes.  Not a simple task as the bogie sides have to come off, the bogie has to have the baseplate taken off, the wheels taken out and then the sides split apart.  Change the errant gear wheel and put it all back together!!

 

The pickups and one bogie were fixed today, the other bogie will be done tomorrow.  Then I'll have to get it reweathered as there's so much grease in the bogies I find it impossible to keep it off the body sides, however often I wipe my hands on kitchen roll I have by my work bench!!

 

More soon.

 

Rod

[steve fay]

Unfortunately I can't expand a lot on why the 50 struggled only to say that the trains on Leamington are heavy, I've run both castles the king and Brittania with no major issues well except the king that had a faulty motor.

The only thing I can think of is was the 50 run in before trying it and does it have sufficient weight ?

Sorry I can't be more helpful, layout is coming on nicely

Edited March 21, 2014 by steve fay

[two tone green]

Hi Rod. Thanks for the test results. Impact adhesive on the shopping list.

 

The servicing of the Heljan bogies is not as bad as it seems. One bit of advice. As you have the bogie split and the motor removed you should take the opportunity to put one turn of insulating tape around the motor so the clamp that holds it grips it a bit harder.

 

The motor is a fraction to small for the clamp, very very small fraction too small. But as it is smooth sided and the clamps being smooth the motor can move in it in certain circumstances. In fact it drives itself out of the clamp.

 

It happens if the loco hits a dead end, a buffer stop or if you grab the loco whilst it's still running and you don't lift the loco off the track quick enough. The motors are so powerful they just drive themselves up out of the clamp as the worm drive reacts to not being able to turn the wheels or a high resistance to movement on them.

 

I have done this to all my Heljan locos as I had had a few occurrences of it. The one turn of insulating tape is enough so that when the clamp is shut and tight it grips the motor harder but does not start to crush the motor.

[Dmudriver]

Hi Two Tone.

 

Funny you should mention that about the tape, as I've done it already!!!!  When I got the loco, there was often a scraping noise in one direction: it turned out that just what you have described was happening - one of the motors was winding itself upwards and catching on the fan!!  So I put a strip of masking tape round it and it cured it!  - as you have also found! 

 

I've had a new motor in this one, too.  I get the definite feeling this loco was built on a Friday!!!!

 

Rod

[two tone green]

Good you know about this. The motor of course can go the other way and run itself downwards with the worm drive grating on the base plate of the bogie. Its can result in gears splitting as well as all the load gets transferred back up the gear train and splits the two initial drive cogs.

 

That's right, you found that one out as well

[Dmudriver]

Hi all.

 

The 31 repairs are finished!!   The second bogie was in a much better condition than the first in that the pickups were perfect:  the gear wheel took little time to change and, although the motor showed no signs of having moved in the clamp, I took Two Tone's advice and added a single strip of masking tape round it.

 

I tested the loco and was pleased to find that a growling noise it had been making had disappeared: it seems that was caused by the faulty gear wheels. 

 

There just remained the red marker lights at one end to get working.  I've rewired them to work off a separate function (I use F10) and one end was working OK.  I unscrewed the wires to the faulty end and checked them with DC current so proved they worked.  It turned out I'd wired them back to front!!

 

So I've now got a 31 that runs as it should have from the beginning.  I have to admit I was getting close to selling it but now it's running OK, it's had a reprieve!!  I still think it was a Friday build - or at least one bogie was - but I'm keeping it now.  ....................... Until ...., well, until a 25 becomes available, either S/H or a new Heljan one and then either the 33 or the 31 will go to make way (2 reasons - space and finance!!) but that will be a while off yet!

 

So, what's next?  Platform surfacing, I think, alternating with building my LNWR Coal Tank - and playing operating the layout!!

 

More soon.

 

Rod

[Dmudriver]

Unfortunately I can't expand a lot on why the 50 struggled only to say that the trains on Leamington are heavy, I've run both castles the king and Brittania with no major issues well except the king that had a faulty motor.

The only thing I can think of is was the 50 run in before trying it and does it have sufficient weight ?

Sorry I can't be more helpful, layout is coming on nicely

Hi Steve.

 

Thanks for that.  Yes, I think the answer is that the 50 isn't heavy enough: it was certainly run in properly - it's been round and round the Club's DC layout a good few times! (I've fitted a switch for operation on either DC or DCC - it bypasses the chip completely when on DC so you get full power, rather than the chip taking a fair chunk of it!!)

 

Rod

[two tone green]

Well done Rod. More photos coming our way by any chance.

[Dmudriver]

Well done Rod. More photos coming our way by any chance.

Soon!!  Busy weekend, though, so it may be next week!!

 

Rod

[two tone green]

I have managed to negotiate a few hours on the layout and started the platform top using your suggestion of contact adhesive.

 

Will post results if they are worth showing on my thread.

[pwr]

I am looking at those MK1 coaches and thinking the profile at the ends is all wrong. Are they Heljan by any chance?

 

I got stuck on a train talking to Pete Wateman once as the OHLE was out. He says they made them that way as if they had the right profile they wouldn't come out of the mould. I think this is because their method of, construction is different to 4mm models by Bachmann where the roofs are separate whereas the Heljan are made so the bottom of the coach is detachable. I least that's how it appears.

 

Thoughts anyone?

 

Paul R

[Dmudriver]

Hi Paul.

 

Yes, they are Heljan and, yes, the tumblehome is wrong - too flat.  There was a fair bit of discussion about them when they came out as I recall, and I knew about the inaccuracy when I bought them.  But the choice was to build kits or buy RTR.  I got them at a good price, buying 4 at once, not as cheap as an Easybuild kit, but cheaper than a JLTRT kit.  They were certainly cheaper than having kits built for me.

 

At normal operating distance, they look like Mark 1s to me, so I've accepted the inaccuracy: in fact, when I put the photos on here I saw the flatter sides, but they didn't jar particularly.

 

As for getting inside them, the roof comes off but, as far as I know, the floor doesn't detach.  I stand to be corrected about that, but when I asked about putting a window back I was told the way was to loosen the water filler pipes at the coach end(s) and take the roof off.  Now that is easier said than done!!!  The 1st class coach is missing 2 filler pipes because I broke the plastic pins that hold them to the roof.  But I did get the window back in!!  To be honest it's so fiddly that that's why the missing window (in the first of the 9 photos above) is away from the viewer on the layout (Cop out?  Yes!!  But practical - for now, at least!!)

 

Rod