West Kirby Town: narrow gauge is coming to town.

[Dmudriver]

.  I never realised sliding a piece of granite along a sheet of ice could be so enthralling!!

Neither did I until I saw Eve Muirhead....

JF

Or Anna Sloan!!

 

Rod

[Dmudriver]

Hi Rod

 

I went for the solid wood plank approach which has worked well for me. I have two platforms, one totally straight and the other a combination of straight face and a complex curved face.

 

The secret to success is a really good template taking into account the edging being used so you get the right clearance plus make sure the planks are really dried out.

 

As the length of the wood can be substantial as the wood dries it can warp. Don't assume all wood bought from such place as B&Q are fully dried out.

Hi Two Tone.

 

Thanks for the comments.  I had already been thinking about the warping and was wondering if I needed to screw the platform down to the baseboard - just in case.  Your comment has convinced me I need to!!  Thanks.

 

The curved bit will require a bit more thought but I'll get there.

 

Rod

[two tone green]

I screwed mine down as it was starting to warp across the width of the widest platform which is the one with a straight face and curved face on the other side. So the faces sat higher than the middle

 

The other long straight one seemed to be ok but I screwed it down anyway due to its length.

[pwr]

I concur about the lack of straightness of DIY store supplied wood or rather the lack of it. Screwing it to the baseboard should put a stop to any warping! Evo Stick impact ought be OK to fix the Slaters slabs to the wood. Use sparingly it can melt plastic!

 

Paul R

[Dmudriver]

Thanks Paul and Two Tone.  I went into the shed and checked the wood this morning - it's bent along it's length, but I think that's because it's resting on the track at the curved end.  Nevertheless, decision to screw it down well and truly confirmed now.

 

I had a bit of a panic earlier on this evening.  I bought some sheets of Slaters 7mm paving and married them up against the platform edging I've got.  They don't match!! - in the sense that the stones on the edging are not all exactly the same size and therefore I couldn't lay them symmetrically.  This photo - whilst not the best - shows what I mean - if you look closely!!

 

 

The Slaters' are of a uniform size but the edging ones aren't so in places (in the middle) I end up with almost an X joint rather than a T - which, I'm told, is the recommended way to lay paving stones.  So I thought I'd lay the Slaters at right angles and this is how it looked:

 

 

That doesn't look too good, so I thought I'd check some photos of prototype platforms.  I found some on various threads on this site and now I wonder what I was worried about!!!   There are plenty that aren't symmetrical so the decision now is to keep what I've got and decide whether to go parallel, as in the first pic, or at right angles.  Whichever I choose, I've seen pics of both so it's up to my choice.  That's for tomorrow or Monday, though!!

 

More soon.

 

Rod

 

 

[David Siddall]

I had a bit of a panic earlier on this evening.  I bought some sheets of Slaters 7mm paving and married them up against the platform edging I've got.  They don't match!! - in the sense that the stones on the edging are not all exactly the same size and therefore I couldn't lay them symmetrically.  This photo - whilst not the best - shows what I mean - if you look closely!!

I reckon that's one of those things that only you as the builder might notice Rod... the rest of us wouldn't see it (...being otherwise engaged admiring the overall impression given by your superb modelling :-)

 

David

[pwr]

Thanks Paul and Two Tone.  I went into the shed and checked the wood this morning - it's bent along it's length, but I think that's because it's resting on the track at the curved end.  Nevertheless, decision to screw it down well and truly confirmed now.

 

I had a bit of a panic earlier on this evening.  I bought some sheets of Slaters 7mm paving and married them up against the platform edging I've got.  They don't match!! - in the sense that the stones on the edging are not all exactly the same size and therefore I couldn't lay them symmetrically.  This photo - whilst not the best - shows what I mean - if you look closely!!

 

P1030220 - Copy.JPG

 

The Slaters' are of a uniform size but the edging ones aren't so in places (in the middle) I end up with almost an X joint rather than a T - which, I'm told, is the recommended way to lay paving stones.  So I thought I'd lay the Slaters at right angles and this is how it looked:

 

P1030221 - Copy.JPG

 

That doesn't look too good, so I thought I'd check some photos of prototype platforms.  I found some on various threads on this site and now I wonder what I was worried about!!!   There are plenty that aren't symmetrical so the decision now is to keep what I've got and decide whether to go parallel, as in the first pic, or at right angles.  Whichever I choose, I've seen pics of both so it's up to my choice.  That's for tomorrow or Monday, though!!

 

More soon.

 

Rod

 

Rod 

 

For my money I would go right angles but as you say there is a prototype for everything so I don't think there is a right or wrong answer. However you might want to bear in mind that right angles will be easier to lay for a curved platform. I have to confess to cutting my edging slabs by hand and laying them individually. I seem to be a glutton for punishment! 

 

Paul

[Dmudriver]

Rod 

 

For my money I would go right angles but as you say there is a prototype for everything so I don't think there is a right or wrong answer. However you might want to bear in mind that right angles will be easier to lay for a curved platform. I have to confess to cutting my edging slabs by hand and laying them individually. I seem to be a glutton for punishment! 

 

Paul

Thanks, Paul.  That's a good point about right angles being easier for a curved platform.  I hadn't thought of that before.

 

Rod

[Dmudriver]

Evening all!

 

First thing - I've worked out how to amend the thread title so I can give  a taster of what's new.  Yes, I've done some work on the platform:  the first picture gives a general view:

 

 

Basically, I got some 19mm x 119mm timber for the straight part of the platform.  119mm, plus the platform edging, makes just the right distance between the 2 tracks - on the straight bit, at least. In addition, I got some 8mm square stripwood, so the two of them together make the right height.  I've filed the resin edges so that they fit better to each other - well, those on the side that's facing the viewer!!  There was a gap in the wall under the edging as they were to start with.  On the back platform, I've made sure the top of the edging matches up - there are gaps in the wall, but they won't be seen once the platform surface is on, so I left them! Lazy?  Perhaps, but practical!!  The second pic is a close up of the arrangement:

 

 

The next stage of the job is to glue the sections that are along the timber to that timber.  This is how it will end up:

 

 

It looks as though the side ends higher up than the timber but that is an optical illusion!!  There is a step, in that the side wall is inset under the edge paving.  The Slaters paving sits nicely on the top, in the rebate.  Before fitting that, however, there's a few other jobs to do:

 

1       Bend the sides running towards the camera to match the curve of the track.  I'll do this by taking the template I made earlier into the kitchen and soaking the pieces in hot water and then        bending them to shape - they don't bend very well in the cold, as I found out this afternoon.  I snapped one in half!!  Fortunately it was a very clean break that responded well to Evostick (or whatever it's called these days - Glue 'n' Fix?);

 

2       Glue those sides to the baseboard following the line of the track, at the correct distance from the track;

 

3       Build up inside those sides to support a line of lamps and the Slaters paving;

 

4       Screw down the main part of the platform and;

 

5       Finally, apply the paving.  Still plenty to do!!!!

 

I also did a bit of a gauging test to check the steps of my longest vehicle didn't foul the rear platform on the approach from the crossover: they don't!!  See pic:

 

 

It doesn't really show too much, but it's a train, which is what this is all about!!  It also gave me a chance to do a bit of shunting!!

 

More soon - after I've got some more, narrower timber from Wickes.

 

Rod

 

[two tone green]

Interesting Rod.

 

I went for a solid bit of timber with the thickness of it to match the platform faces. Mine dont have the edging stones on them. They sit on top of the edging and onto the solid wood infill. Then the platform surface / paving is then fitted.

 

I have used this for the straight and curved platform. I used a template to cut the contour of the curved face taking into account the thickness of the platform face edging and edges sat on top. It has worked well with clearance for the longest loco and stock maintained quite well.

 

Looking forward to seeing your finished platforms. I must finish mine !

[two tone green]

Scroll down the page to see some photos of the layout and platform shape. I have added  2mm platic card on top of the wood and that then has thin paving slab sheets on top to finish it off.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/25365-st-davids/page-3

 

I have used sides etc from Crossing Gate Models and found them very good. The sides interlock very nicely to give a very good brick effect side.

 

http://www.crossinggate.co.uk/platformfront.html

Edited February 26, 2014 by two tone green

[pwr]

Rod

 

These platforms look solid and I reckon will work out just fine. Once you have finished you'll need to have loads of BRUTE trollies lying about in varying states of decrepitude and contents. Don't forget to pose a couple of spotters usin hem as seats!

 

Paul R

[Dmudriver]

Hi Two Tone.

 

I've had a look at your thread and the platforms specifically.  To be honest, I did not consider my woodworking skills or equipment to be up to cutting solid wood on a curve accurately enough, so I've taken, to me, the easy way out!!  [if I remember rightly, I only did a year's woodwork at school and that was more years ago than I care to remember!!  Even then, it was obvious I wasn't a natural!!!]

 

I bought the platform sides I've used just after Telford 2012, thinking I'd be fitting the platform soon after.  I didn't and then I saw Crossing Gates' platforms at Telford 2013 and was going to get those until I remembered what I'd bought the previous year!!

 

The emphasis on the curved bit will be to get a decent support for the paving and the lamps down the middle.  Keep watching!!

 

Rod

[two tone green]

Hi Rod,

 

I have to be honest and say that I got a joiner with all the right machines to cut and plane the timber to size and shape. The curved platform is spot on compared to the template I supplied him.

 

The Crossing Gates Model sides flex quite nicely when gently heated with a hair dryer before cooling and retraining the desired shape very nicely. They are then glued using Bostick contact adhesive to the wood and left alone for a while. 

 

As the whole lot is a solid mass then support at any point is not an issue. Only thing to watch out for the the total depth of the platform and baseboard when you want to drill through it all for fitting lights and wiring. At least with it being solid I don't have to worry about wires getting lost in the void between platform top and baseboard top. A tube or sleeve passed through the two holes would prevent this when threading wires through.

 

Anyway, good luck, will be watching carefully for hi9nts and tips I can grab

[Dmudriver]

Evening all.

 

I've made a bit more progress on the platform - it's not finished but it's looking a bit more like it should.  Here's a picture from a helicopter (!) of where I'm up to now:

 

 

I've curved the sides and infilled the curved section as best I can so far.  Curving the sides was easier than I expected.  I put the edges to be curved into a bowl of hot water, left them for a couple of minutes and, lo and behold, bendy sides!!  They're only laid loosely at the moment - hopefully when I glue them down I'll get the curve at the joins a bit better, but all in all I'm happy with the way they look.

 

I've mentioned elsewhere that, to keep the cost down, I bought some platform edges that were seconds.  The one I soaked in the hot water ended up like a piece of fish - it was so soft I thought I had really damaged it, but as it cooled it settled back to the shape I wanted.  The next pic is looking the other way, from above the station building:

 

 

You can see the "seconds" sections more easily here, they're closest to the camera on the left hand edge.  There's 5 of them altogether and, as you can see, they are not a consistent width.  I'll probably file the protruding edges back a bit before I screw the board down - it'll be easier once the glue has properly dried.  I'm not aiming for anything too good on the back platform - it won't be easily visible but what can be seen needs to look reasonably correct.  They're not too apparent in the final pic, which is of my 50 and a Heljan coach doing a gauging test, but they can be seen:

 

 

I glued the edges to the straight piece of wood and would have glued the curved sides down this afternoon as well, but I ran out of glue!!  I'll get some tomorrow and do as much as I can to finish it then.  I've tested the Slaters paving sheet over the largest gap and it bridges it OK, but just to be sure, I'll put some more packing in once the sides are fitted and the wood screwed down.  I'll try and get the concourse fitted, too, but the paving will have to wait until I've weathered the underframe of the 115.  That needs doing as I'm operating on "Apethorne Junction" at the Nailsea exhibition in a couple of weeks and I want to run it on there.  (Hopefully with my 3-car Thumper).

 

I have to say, though, that I'm rather pleased with the platform so far and it's not been as difficult as I feared it might be.  There's just the infilling to think about now - I've got some packing sponge available and I'm even thinking of using that!!

 

So that's it for now.  More soon.

 

Rod.

 

 

[two tone green]

Very nice Rod. Nice work.

[bobster]

Looks good Rod - Very nice 50.

[pwr]

Excellent work

 

Paul R

[two tone green]

This weekend if I get chance I am going to try to get at least one platform fitted with the top thin sheets of paving stones.

 

Think I will take note of the tip and place the stones at right angles to the platform edging.

 

It will mean more joins as the sheets are A4 size so by placing them at right angles means using the short side as the width rather than the longer edge. Will look closely as well at wastage due to aligning the stones across the joins.

Edited March 5, 2014 by two tone green

[Dmudriver]

Hi all.

 

I've made some more progress  on the platform, but came across a bit of a problem first.  In short, the warnings about warping made earlier were well made!  I'd left the layout for a couple of days and when I went and checked it, I thought it looked slightly "off".   So I put a piece of thin wood across the width of the platform and found a slight dip in it - see pic:

 

 

In addition, the right hand side has lifted a little - it's not too bad in the photo as my other hand was holding it down!  My remedy was to put a strip of 8mm sq stripwood down the middle - see pic:

 

 

Again, my other hand (cropped out of the picture) was holding the sides down but I think it will improve the level once everything is screwed down.  I've not done that yet, as I wanted to make sure everything fits first.  I have managed to infill the worst of the gap on the outer curved platform - not with sponge (!) but more stripwood.  See pic:

 

 

Today, I've done the concourse.  Again, I've used the same thickness timber (19mm) supported on 8mm stripwood.  Pic:

 

 

And finally, although I know I should be doing the DMU weathering, I just couldn't resist seeing how the paving would fit.  So I measured and then cut 3 of the sheets I'd got and laid them onto the concourse and part of the straight section of the platform.. I did, in my enthusiasm, cut one the wrong way but I think I've been able to rescue it by using it on the concourse.  Obviously, I can't stick it down until the platform's screwed down but I just want a bit of a running session to check everything is OK before I start doing that.  This is what the paving looks like.  I hope the joints can be seen in the picture, but I think they will be more obvious once it's painted and weathered:

 

 

I did try some of the full sheets against the edge of the curved platform and that is going to be more of a challenge as they fan out as they go round the curve.  I'll deal with that when I come to it, though.  The white lines down the edges of the platform are just the resin castings: I haven't started any painting yet.

 

Hope all goes well with yours at the weekend, Twotone.  You'll post on your thread, I assume - but put it on here if you want to, it's no problem.

 

More soon.

 

Rod

 

PS     Bobster, the 50 is a JLTRT kit, powered by 2 x ABC diesel bogie gearboxes and delrin chain.  It pulls really well, though it couldn't manage one of Pete Waterman's rake of coaches on his layout - they are a bit heavy though!!!  It has managed 17 converted Lima coaches on the club layout though (converted by replacing the Lima plastic bogies and wheels with metal ones).

 

[steve fay]

The trains on Petes Layout take some shifting. They've given my locos a fair testing

[Dmudriver]

The trains on Petes Layout take some shifting. They've given my locos a fair testing

Noticed that on your thread, Steve.

 

.

[bobster]

The trains on Petes Layout take some shifting. They've given my locos a fair testing

 

Hi Rod

 

Thanks for the Info on the Cl 50, I would have thought that your 50 could pull anything with twin ABCs - How do Pete's Loco's manage to pull them on his layout ? - Is he using a different system.

 

Cheers.

Bob.

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi Rod,

 

Great progress and nice work!

 

Sorry to see that the wood has warped, I have had similar dioramas - especially as they dry out indoors - I wont use single pieces of wood again, all has to be cross-braced (but that isnt always warp proof either).

 

Kindest,

 

CME

Edited March 6, 2014 by CME and Bottlewasher

[Dmudriver]

Hi Rod

 

Thanks for the Info on the Cl 50, I would have thought that your 50 could pull anything with twin ABCs - How do Pete's Loco's manage to pull them on his layout ? - Is he using a different system.

 

Cheers.

Bob.

Hi Bob.

 

I don't know what system Pete's locos use, but I suspect the better hauling power is due to extra weight and the distribution of the weight evenly over the driving axles.  My 50 is just as it comes built from the kit.  The only extra weight is the chip and 2 speakers, which really aren't that heavy at all.  Even the ABC gears and motor are pretty light.

 

Maybe Steve (Fay) could offer a bit more insight - as he's said, his locos have had a fair testing on Pete's layout.

 

Rod