a4man Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 Hi everyone I am scratchbuilding station platforms. I have built up the carcase in wood and am using a 1.5mm ply top to create the platform. What filler, modelling clay etc is best to use to cover the ply. I want to create paving slabs. What is the best tool to etch the plaster/filler/clay? How long should i leave the clay/plaster etc before i start scratching/etching the slabs? Cheers Derek Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 I would reconsider the idea of scratching the surface. How deep/wide are the cracks going to be? What sort of trench will it equate to when scaled up. Just using a very sharp pencil might be all that is required to hint at the actual small gap. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ste234 Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 Depending on your gauge, for example with N, 2mm to the foot, it might be best to use pencil lines or similar, because you may end up with gaps a foot deep Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastworld Posted December 17, 2009 Share Posted December 17, 2009 Hi everyone I am scratchbuilding station platforms. I have built up the carcase in wood and am using a 1.5mm ply top to create the platform. What filler, modelling clay etc is best to use to cover the ply. I want to create paving slabs. What is the best tool to etch the plaster/filler/clay? How long should i leave the clay/plaster etc before i start scratching/etching the slabs? Cheers Derek I'm just wondering if you might find it easier to use a thin layer of plasticard as a final surface. You could score it possibly with a blunt knife, or use pre-emosed plasticard. If you score it yourself you can at least have a practice on some offcuts to get the technique sussed, and it will also be less messy. You can of course cut it to fit, score it and then fit it which might be easier. Stu Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
a4man Posted January 9, 2010 Author Share Posted January 9, 2010 I'm just wondering if you might find it easier to use a thin layer of plasticard as a final surface. You could score it possibly with a blunt knife, or use pre-emosed plasticard. If you score it yourself you can at least have a practice on some offcuts to get the technique sussed, and it will also be less messy. You can of course cut it to fit, score it and then fit it which might be easier. Stu Cheers Stu I didn't want any joints. I have used 1.5mm ply covered with polyfilla and have just finished scoring all the paving slabs - laborious, but looking good. I have taken photos and will post some pics soon together with details fo the tools used. derek Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SquireBev Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 Apologies for bumping such an old thread, but I'm attempting a similar technique, and wondered if anyone has any hints and tips. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coombe Barton Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 Tried http://www.scalescenes.com/products/R008-Station-Platform ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
edcayton Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 I have to say that I would use a paper of some kind. There would be no relief, but you would get a variation of shades between the slabs. Ed Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SquireBev Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 The Scalescenes one does look tempting, and I've used Metcalfe's kits in the past, but I'm trying to scratchbuild as much as possible with this layout. Must be my masochistic streak. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tudor Rose Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 I have just completed a large area of cobbled setts on my layout and I used Artex coving adhesive in a thin layer over stapled down thin ply. Once dried I then wet a brush and went over the whole surface to even out, but without being totally flat all over, nice bit of texture etc. I then marked pencil lines and using a ruler and a school compass, alternating between that and a sharp scriber, I did the basic lines to give the rows, then did the other lines freehand at about the right distance. It gives it a good overall appearance without the uniform appearance you can sometimes get. A gentle brush over with a dry paintbrush afterwards to remove scraping also nicely rounds the edges of each sett. Once painted up in various layers with a final wash that goes nicely into the lines, it all appears quite natural and certainly doesn't look overscale. For my platform edge I wanted paving slabs and these were individually cut and stuck on tight together so that there is a very slight gap visible, but again it doesn't look overscale. Hope that is useful. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted August 11, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 11, 2011 Have a look at Steve Howe's thread on Trenance - here. Stu Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 I've had great success making platforms from plastic card. This is a medium that I am very comfortable with and may not be for everyone. I use 0.040" sheet for the tops and basic structure. The paving stones along the edge are scribed using the Olfa carpet cutter (aka scrawker). I get a tarmac effect by first spraying grey primer. After it's dry, hold a spray tin of flat black too high so that it goes over the grey roughly (not sure how to explain). Repeat the process until you are happy with the effect. For the sides, I use Slaters brick sheets. I have used card and paper in the past but in my experience these materials deteriorate in service, particularly on exhibition layouts, and blemishes are hard to repair. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellicoe Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 Well, if you're serious about the masochism, why not pave the thing properly. I print a sheet of square paving stones onto thin white card and part them off in strips. These are glued to the top of the (ply) platform core with PVA printed side up. Using a scalpel blade, I cut through each individual slab then paint them over with a thinned mix of Tamiya sand yellow. The result is a little patchy so the slabs are self-texturing. The following is a cruel close-up of an N-gauge effort. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 Well, if you're serious about the masochism, why not pave the thing properly. I print a sheet of square paving stones onto thin white card and part them off in strips. These are glued to the top of the (ply) platform core with PVA printed side up. Using a scalpel blade, I cut through each individual slab then paint them over with a thinned mix of Tamiya sand yellow. The result is a little patchy so the slabs are self-texturing. The following is a cruel close-up of an N-gauge effort. LOL, no, not that serious about masochism, just want to see a good result. I have in the past cut paving stones from - yes - plastic card and glued them to make my own pavement (sidewalk). The Wills product does the same job. I think I would scribe the paving stones instead of cutting them out individually. It's hard to get them to lie uniformly. I tip my hat to you for the job you've done. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SquireBev Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 I might end up using plasticard for the surface, the clay is a pain to work with, especially since the card I'm using as a base keeps curling up as the clay dries. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SquireBev Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 Also, if I were to use a solid core of plywood, what thickness would you suggest? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coombe Barton Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 Also, if I were to use a solid core of plywood, what thickness would you suggest? Depends on: Scale Underlay thickness Line curvature Fastening method Clearances and loads of others It's much easier with a framework of thin wood or heavier card. A lot less swearing involved when you find out that something's not quite right. It's also less costly as you'll have to buy oversized ply to cut, and if your cutting's anything like mine ... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SquireBev Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 It is a rather curved platform, so it would be a pain, true enough. Alright then, where do I get thick card that won't curl up as soon as I look at it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coombe Barton Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 Instead of thick card try 1mm ply and frames of hardwood - strips available from Wickes/B&Q, Homebase and so on. Ply from places like http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/online_deals.html#a88204 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 Well, I totally wouldn't use plywood. For me, plastic is soooo easy to work with and perfect for curved platforms as can be seen in the picture. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SquireBev Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 Hmm, mixed signals! Will forge ahead with the card I've got and see what happens, then I'll decide who's advice to follow. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SquireBev Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 Well, had another test run with the DAS clay. Marked improvement on my first attempt, but still a few things I need to sort out before attempting it on a whole-platform level. First attempt on the left, second on the right. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted August 12, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 12, 2011 I like the 2nd attempt, looks very convincing. Stu Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.