witherbrow Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 Evening all just put this on my blog but thought id put something here too essentially its about how to carry the current over to a set of tracks at a baseboard join - i used to use Hornby link wires but this was expensive i cant put anything under the board as ive no clearance but i should be ok for the board edges this is the idea ive got which i think i borrowed from camelot junction The black lines are the rails and the grey bits the edge of the drawers, the brown bit is copper tape. my thinking was that if i can get the copper tape to make contact with a rail and have the tape run to the joins the current would carry across. of course its not as simple as that i think a block of balsa wood and some soldering would be needed but i think that would work? the other option was to use fishplates. There's a bit more info on my blog too - just wanted to know if anyone has done it this way or has other ways of doing it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kris Posted April 29, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 29, 2012 You would want one part to be sprung to ensure that there was contact. As shown you would have to ensure that there was exact contact everytime. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim V Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 Susceptible to dirt, and it will wear, also not self cleaning. Why not use the baseboard joiners - just solder wires to the joiners, then when you connect the boards together - job done! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold beast66606 Posted April 29, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 29, 2012 Good luck, I've spent a good few hours wiring proper connections on a layout that tried that idea, no power on lots of the track. Quality is forgotten long after the cost is forgotten. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
witherbrow Posted April 30, 2012 Author Share Posted April 30, 2012 was looking at these to get a tight fitting - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-Wire-Toggle-Catch-Latch-Case-toolbox-box-trunk-chest-48x37mm-NICKEL-BRASS-/150790313012?pt=UK_Crafts_Other_Crafts_EH&var=&hash=item68ca6a6039#ht_1208wt_1270 another way would be to use fishplates alone or to combine fishplates with the copper tape or combine the fishplates and these catches although working in an IT shop does mean i could use wires from a molex cable as these both have female and male ends - i could try and solder these to the track and run them track side (suitably camouflaged of course ) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold beast66606 Posted April 30, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 30, 2012 Forgive my abrupt tone but just buy some decent connectors. I cannot understand why people try to do things "on the cheap" and then wonder why they have problems. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
witherbrow Posted April 30, 2012 Author Share Posted April 30, 2012 Forgive my abrupt tone but just buy some decent connectors. I cannot understand why people try to do things "on the cheap" and then wonder why they have problems. i quite agree but i dont have the space to use these Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted April 30, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 30, 2012 I have no connections between boards, I wired each board individually back to the control panel, should the layout have to move all the looms pack into the panel. There are no clips just soldered joints, although the DCC bus has a few chocolate blocks on it. Seems to work without problems for 3 years now. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted April 30, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 30, 2012 i quite agree but i dont have the space to use these Have you got the room to mount choc-blocks anywhere so that they are directly opposite each other? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
witherbrow Posted April 30, 2012 Author Share Posted April 30, 2012 Have you got the room to mount choc-blocks anywhere so that they are directly opposite each other? no space at all really as there is no clearance under the board whatsoever Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted April 30, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 30, 2012 no space at all really as there is no clearance under the board whatsoever Any room on top or on the side(s)? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
witherbrow Posted April 30, 2012 Author Share Posted April 30, 2012 theres room on the top trackside the plan is on my last blog entry to give an idea of space i think they would need to be cleverly hidden though Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stuartp Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 I know you're building them in drawers - is there any way of mounting proper plugs and sockets on the tops and hiding them under something when the layout is in use ? Or just tucking them out of the way over the side ? Or a socket set in the front of one drawer and a plug and lead on the other, if you make the hole for the lead big enough you could push the plug back through when the layout is stored and fish it out when you want to operate (think front door key on a bit of string behind the letter box). Failing that, sliding fishplates might do it but it's not a great way of making a reliable connection. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
witherbrow Posted April 30, 2012 Author Share Posted April 30, 2012 I know you're building them in drawers - is there any way of mounting proper plugs and sockets on the tops and hiding them under something when the layout is in use ? Or just tucking them out of the way over the side ? Or a socket set in the front of one drawer and a plug and lead on the other, if you make the hole for the lead big enough you could push the plug back through when the layout is stored and fish it out when you want to operate (think front door key on a bit of string behind the letter box). Failing that, sliding fishplates might do it but it's not a great way of making a reliable connection. ill look into this i may be able to create a hole for the connectors that will do the job - perhaps using some balsa wood strips just to elevate the drawers when in use Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
loickebros Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 how about this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230482511895?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
witherbrow Posted April 30, 2012 Author Share Posted April 30, 2012 how about this http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1423.l2649 Dave looking at them i think they will be a bit too big - ill have to measure up the sides when i get a chance Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jol Wilkinson Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 how about this http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1423.l2649 Dave Those look like the C&L "baseboard end protectors" http://www.finescale...art&Itemid=59#i (or a copy). Intended I think for protecting rail ends on portable layouts but also providing electrical contacts. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Katier Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 i quite agree but i dont have the space to use these Sure you do, maybe not below (although do find that surprising), just being the wires on 'flying leads' through the front of the baseboard and have them hanging down at the front. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
witherbrow Posted May 2, 2012 Author Share Posted May 2, 2012 flying leads do sound like a good option and can be easily disguised on the single track possibly able to blend them in around the yard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peach james Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 What about .1" spaced connectors, like used for PCB work? That's what I've used in a variety of situations involving occasioinal contacts. The're cheap (~5 quid for 32 pins), and reasonably reliable, small enough to surface mount. (esp, if you only need 2 wires...though, use 3 prongs to get 2 wires directionally correct) James Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
witherbrow Posted May 3, 2012 Author Share Posted May 3, 2012 hmm......... lots to think about thank you all for your advice im going to talk to the girlfriend and get permission and buy the needed track - ill go from there and 'experiment' with the suggestions Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.