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Black Country Blues


Indomitable026

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If you are changing the wheels, why strip the bearing and gear off the old axle, to transfer to the new one, with the new wheels ? Why not just put the new wheels on the old axle, leaving the bearings and gears alone ?

 

The 'proper' EM wheels are slimmer in cross section Stu, if they were fitted to the ends of the original axle the there would not be much left for the wheel set to grip. The last thing you would want would be wheels falling off diesels at a show and having to bring in a fleet of Spamcans instead. Oh, hang on, what a great idea...Mark I think it's fine to use the new wheels on the old axles!

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And from BBC Magazine ten things http://www.bbc.co.uk/blogs/magazinemonitor/2013/01/10_things_we_didnt_know_last_w_257.shtml

 

4. One in 10 people have dropped their phone down a toilet at some point.

 

Well my wife threw (by accident) her new phone a few years back into my daughter's potty... that she (daughter not wife) had just filled. Phone never worked properly after that.

 

And a few years later she noticed strange lights glowing from the Ikea toilet she'd just used. 

 

So far the current phone has escaped a dunking!

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When Saturday Comes...

 

We’ll return to the Guy later, in the meantime onto the next BSC vehicle, this time a locomotive, and in particular;

 

post-6861-0-24732000-1358014483_thumb.jpg

 

post-6861-0-33690500-1358014422.jpg

 

A Yorkshire Engine Company DE2. So, why offer to build this locomotive?

 

In 1945, the UKs largest steelmaker, the United Steel Companies Ltd, acquired Sheffield locomotive builder, the Yorkshire Engine Co., with the intention of them becoming an in-house supplier for their considerable locomotive needs.

 

The Yorkshire Engine Co.’s, 275 hp, DE2, model was launched in 1952. A simple and robust design, it was based on two earlier locomotives which had been designed for use in United Steels own Templeborough melting shop at Rotherham. Aside from those in United Steels own fleet, DE2s were also purchased by other several other steelmakers, the largest fleet being 18 at Lancashire Steels Irlam works. In the Black Country, Round Oak and Stewarts & Lloyds at Bilston, the areas largest steel makers, both had small fleets of them.

 

It’s an iconic steelworks locomotive, especially in the Black Country, for the 1950s to 1980s period.

 

Fortunately, a kit is available from Judith Edge kits and, as I’d already built two of these for my own needs, I knew that it was an excellent kit. Now I build in 00, usually with rigid chassis’, so the challenge for me was that this build was to be in EM and with compensation.

 

 

The Build

 

I won’t bore you with a blow by blow account of every fold, drilled hole and soldered joint, rather I’ll pick out some general points and focus on some of the issues particular to this model and prototype.

 

The kit, which has been available for a few years now, is largely etched brass with a few resin castings and various nuts, bolts and bits of wire etc. It’s a pretty straightforward build, there’s plenty of space in the tall, wide, bonnet for a mechanism, and the curves of the bonnet top are cast in resin. The only tricky part is forming the flutes which connect the bonnet front to the flared sides. Michael provides you with high quality etchings, good instructions and excellent backup.

 

I opted for a high level gearbox, Mashima motor and Alan Gibson wheels. As I mentioned, I don’t compensate normally, but as it’s more routinely done in EM, I chose to incorporate it. When I did use it a while back, I used sliding bearings and etched hornblocks. Michael provides his own simple and effective system of a balancing knife edge and compensating beams which accurately aligns the wheelbase for you. More on that later.

 

TBC

Edited by Arthur
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Wow, those photos have really been motivational. I'll be ready to get cracking when I get back from London F

 

It's really helped having the mock up, much easier to finally place the building and make up the surrounding areas. 

 

You'll notice that CK's car hasn't made the cut yet. I wonder though if (Reggy Perrin style) we should have CK's car outside Tennents with a personalised parking bay sign...?

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Really like the down-to-earth stuff here - illustration on the mock up of "6ft Bloke"

 

There's been lots of 'down to earth' modelling going on today John, and some very 'down to earth' words when I knocked over a bottle of MEK... Thankfully it was very nearly empty, but still made a big stink!

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When Saturday Comes...

 

We’ll return to the Guy later, in the meantime onto the next BSC vehicle, this time a locomotive, and in particular;

 

attachicon.gifRound Oak 1977.jpg

 

attachicon.gifYE 2.jpg

 

A Yorkshire Engine Company DE2. So, why offer to build this locomotive?

 

In 1945, the UKs largest steelmaker, the United Steel Companies Ltd, acquired Sheffield locomotive builder, the Yorkshire Engine Co., with the intention of them becoming an in-house supplier for their considerable locomotive needs.

 

The Yorkshire Engine Co.’s, 275 hp, DE2, model was launched in 1952. A simple and robust design, it was based on two earlier locomotives which had been designed for use in United Steels own Templeborough melting shop at Rotherham. Aside from those in United Steels own fleet, DE2s were also purchased by other several other steelmakers, the largest fleet being 18 at Lancashire Steels Irlam works. In the Black Country, Round Oak and Stewarts & Lloyds at Bilston, the areas largest steel makers, both had small fleets of them.

 

It’s an iconic steelworks locomotive, especially in the Black Country, for the 1950s to 1980s period.

 

Fortunately, a kit is available from Judith Edge kits and, as I’d already built two of these for my own needs, I knew that it was an excellent kit. Now I build in 00, usually with rigid chassis’, so the challenge for me was that this build was to be in EM and with compensation.

 

 

The Build

 

I won’t bore you with a blow by blow account of every fold, drilled hole and soldered joint, rather I’ll pick out some general points and focus on some of the issues particular to this model and prototype.

 

The kit, which has been available for a few years now, is largely etched brass with a few resin castings and various nuts, bolts and bits of wire etc. It’s a pretty straightforward build, there’s plenty of space in the tall, wide, bonnet for a mechanism, and the curves of the bonnet top are cast in resin. The only tricky part is forming the flutes which connect the bonnet front to the flared sides. Michael provides you with high quality etchings, good instructions and excellent backup.

 

I opted for a high level gearbox, Mashima motor and Alan Gibson wheels. As I mentioned, I don’t compensate normally, but as it’s more routinely done in EM, I chose to incorporate it. When I did use it a while back, I used sliding bearings and etched hornblocks. Michael provides his own simple and effective system of a balancing knife edge and compensating beams which accurately aligns the wheelbase for you. More on that later.

 

TBC

 

Fantastic Arthur, I had no idea this would be next! 

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And a cracking job he made of it too Adam, I remember the photos you posted of it a while back.

 

It'll be a real slugger, 108:1 gearbox, Mashima motor and flywheel.

 

I know Mike Edge liked it too. It says a lot for the kit that the paint job took longer, and was more difficult than building it. Must fit some pickups to my Thomas Hill...

 

Adam

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A few years ago one of my staff noticed a set of false teeth trapped in the filter screen on the unit where we dropped the bus toilets..

 

After a couple of weeks a gentleman enquired whether we had found any teeth so the things were retrieved and cleaned up then posted on to the person with no further correspondence.

 

It leaves a nasty taste in the mouth even thinking about it!

 

Wally

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So far today I've painted the outside of the roof, and added some weathering ( rust & moss). Most of the works was done on Millwards, though I'm starting to consider what sort of debris I need to add inside.

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Progress today :

The front door has been painted and fitted

The upstairs side door and window have been fitted

The fire escape has been weathered and fitted

The supports for the fire escape have been painted

The workshop door lintel has been fitted

The rear wall of the yard has been fitted

The upper floor has been fitted

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No need to spend oceans of money, I re gauge my wheels with a GW Models gear puller, (other gear pullers are available), I just find it more controllable than braying it with a 4lb lump hammer. Then again, I use a half inch wood chisel to modify my wagons, so who am I to preach?

 

Mike.

I dont use a hammer or a wheel puller....   Just a pice of 1/8 steel with a slot cut in it with a slim cutting disc in an angel grinder...  then put a hardened nail from a picture hook with its head cut off in my tower drill blunt end down.  Sit the wheel set in the slot of the 1/8 steel, support it in a drill vice and then use the drill (turned off) to press down as required on the centre of the axle.  Lots of pressure with control !!

 

A

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Yes, thought about using an olaf cutter, got one. Was trying to avoid scoring 100's of little lines though and the wrapping would work ok on straights but could be issues on the curves I have. Still thinking on this one....

I see the point about the corners but you dont have to do 100 scores...   you scrib longer and then cut to width so you do 20 scribes and cut out 5 lengths.

 

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just nice to have a picture from the spamster without a spam can in it !!

 

I'm treating that as some of your usual mistyping Mr Banks, and a request for more spamage...

 

post-6675-0-73410900-1358029852_thumb.jpg

 

post-6675-0-34145800-1358029914_thumb.jpg

 

post-6675-0-89337000-1358029949_thumb.jpg

 

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post-6675-0-06925100-1358029985_thumb.jpg

 

post-6675-0-26905000-1358030002_thumb.jpg

 

 

And No.1 daughter wondering what I was up to earlier. I think the quote was "is that all you've done?!"

 

post-6675-0-17030000-1358029834_thumb.jpg

 

Edit: by the way, the sandpaper glued down in the car park looks rippled in the photos. Once the PVA dried this flattened out nicely, so no ploughed field effect!

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Nige,

 

A few of the pound between the top two locks for you. Sorted out the alignment past Flavio's building and under the bridge. This moved the curve slightly but won't affect the locks.

 

As it was

post-6675-0-22060700-1358032018_thumb.jpg

 

Marking out a template for the towpath using paper.

post-6675-0-95053400-1358031997_thumb.jpg

 

Transferring the template to the foamboard using sharp points

post-6675-0-84609600-1358031922_thumb.jpg

 

The marked-up foamboard

post-6675-0-74656700-1358031904_thumb.jpg

 

As it is now (well a few hours ago)

post-6675-0-41053400-1358031883_thumb.jpg

 

 

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