Hayfields turnout workbench

[hayfield]

Chris

 

The Scalefour Society, I think the EM gauge Society do them as well. I put off buying them for a few years, they are both quick to use and accurate. The Vee jig in my opinion is the better of the two, I have now got the hang of the switch rail jig though

Edited November 22, 2015 by hayfield

[Nickey Line]

Hi there, am I right in thinking that your latest batch of turnouts have been built on draught film? It's something I've been considering trying in the near future.

Keep up the good work by the way!

[hayfield]

I have for some time been using tracing paper which I buy from WHSmith, though any brand is fine, one batch (may be the latest) is much thicker than previous.

 

Two reasons for using it, firstly its a good medium to keep the turnout on until use, secondly it allows you to reuse the same plan. Both are held down by masking tape, I use 2 thin strips (about 3 mm wide) of double sided tape to hold the sleepers to the tracing papers. This width has sufficient strength to hold the timbers in place, but comes away without ripping the timbers from the rail

[Izzy]

Removing built trackwork from templates when stuck down with d/s tape can be easily done by washing the glue joints with turps/white spirit. I usually just apply using a brush as you would use for liquid glue, peeling the template back as each joint is broken. Usually I use old spare dirty turps which has been used to clean brushes - waste not, want not etc... This is made easier because I only use thin strips of d/s tape to hold sleepers down on a template, but the basic technique is sound whatever the amount of tape used. Be warned the joint break is only temporary in that the tape soon becomes tacky again which is why I peel the template back.

 

Izzy

[hayfield]

Izzy

 

Yes I have just used white spirit in the past, as I don't have turps. With this method even this is not necessary, especially as I use the very cheap tape from Hobbycraft (and thin strips) which may not have as much tack as other brands

[hayfield]

The last item on the work bench was a P4 A6 using LMS 4 bolt chairs

 

 

This first photo shows the common crossing in place, but without the (special) common crossing chairs added. A mixture of standard and bridge chairs at either end holding it in place. You will also see the straight stock rail taking shape with some of the chairs fitted

 

 

Close up of the plan/directions for an A switch, also a set of sprues which makes one left and 1 right handed switch, either A, B or C. As in the previous posts I will be fitting the central parts of the block chairs prior to fitting the switch rails

 

 

 

The straight stock rail is now in place and stuck down, the check rail being fitted to the stock rail prior to sticking it down, then the centre part of the block chairs prior to fitting the switch rail. The second stock rail has had all the chairs fitted and us stuck to the timbers for the length of the common crossing

 

 

[hayfield]

 

I seem to have got the sequence of photo's out of order, still as the next turnout will be a double slip, it will have 2 common crossings. You can see the chairs for the common crossing have been fitted and the stock rail with most of the chairs and the check rail fitted prior to being stuck down

 

 

Here are the instructions for a 1-6 common crossing and the sprue's for the common crossings under it. The sprue contains chairs for a 1-5, 1-6, 1-7, 1-7 &1-10 crossings

 

 

Just a recap, I am using the Exactoscale special switch chairs to set/maintain the gauge, to that end the build sequence has to be altered slightly and the stock and switch rails built at the same time.

Firstly I fitted the straight stock rail as per standard, then fitted two block chairs in the switch section. These will hold the curved switch rail in the exact position as it enters the switch section.

 

Secondly I start to ft the curved stock rail, but only stick the chairs opposite the common crossing and halfway between the common crossing and the rail break.

 

This next photo sees the straight switch rail being fitted using gauges

 

 

Next the curved switch rail is fitted, gauged at one end with a gauge connected the stock rail, at the other end held against the  switch rail block chairs. The 2 switch block chairs are now fitted between the straight switch rail and curved stock rail The curved stock rail are set using a gauge against attached to the curved switch rail and held against the block chairs ensuring that the stock rail enters the switch section at the correct angle

 

 

The final photo in the build sequence shows the last 2 chairs on the curved stock rail being stuck in position.

 

Now I guess I have totally lost everyone, by now, all I am doing is letting the chairs do what they were designed to do without having to either alter them or fit a slightly different size

 

 

The finished turnout with tie bar and final 4 switch chairs fitted, I leave these off until I solder the tiebar to the switch rails so the heat does not melt groves into them

 

 

 

[hayfield]

I was going to build a double slip next but not had a chance of building the plan on Templot yet so have started a B6 in EM gauge. This is a good opportunity in using the Exactoscale special chairs as designed again but in EM gauge.

 

 

The build follows the normal build process with the common crossing laid first followed by the straight stock rail, which will now be the datum line for the rest of the build. I have fitted most of the chairs including the outside parts of the additional switch chairs, then fitted the 2 central block chair parts, as seen in this close up.

 

 

Next I fit the curved stock rail and stick the chairs opposite the common crossing with gauges then the standard chairs up to the blue line by eye, as the curved switch rail will be set against this part of the stock rail

 

 

The curved switch rail up to the upper red line is gauged against the curved stock rail and stuck in place. The left hand side of the curved stock rail is left free to enable the straight switch rail to be fitted

 

 

Now the final outer parts of the 2 block chairs are fitted and the remaining chairs are now stuck in place (between the 2 blue lines)

 

I must own up to having to trim very slightly the 2 sets of chair bases after the block chairs. I don't know if it is the EM gauge spacing (its slightly shorter than a P4 turnout) or the fact that some of the chairs are slightly out of line. Still all coming together well

[hayfield]

 

The inner parts of the 2 block chairs are now set to maintain the gauge

 

 

These gauges are Slaters, they have nice flats filed into the centres and one end filed flat, this is to ease them over switch/wing rails etc and to fit on to the common crossing Vee

 

 

Here are the 2 centre parts of the block chairs between the straight switch rail and the curved stock rail, these are now stuck in place so the curved stock rail can be pushed in place and stuck. I had to slightly trim 2 pairs of chairs slightly again

 

 

Now the curved stock rail can be finally stuck in place, roller gauges at the toe, the square gauge fixing the stock rail gauge is a block gauge. These are very useful and I was very lucky to get an EM gauge one with some old EM gauges, a roller gauge (like the Slaters) with one end filed flat will do the same job.

 

Now I off to do the check rails. Talking about the check rail chairs looking at my stock the 0.68 ones are marked S4 bhut called P4 , the 0.8 mm ones are marked P4 but called now 4 mm 

[hayfield]

Finally got to start the double slip, you must make sure you get a decent plan especially for your chosen gauge. I have seen a certain company selling turnout frets for both EM & P4 gauge use. You can get away with a plain turnout but and diamond or slip must have its own plan at the tips of the common crossing have to be in the correct position

 

 

Both common crossings have been built, tracing paper laid over the plan and double sided tape attached, red marks show rail breaks and I will make hinged switch rails as flexible ones will make the tie bars too stiff. Now to cut some timbers

[hayfield]

 

Timbers all cut and put in place and a start on fitting the common crossings, this is the most important  part of the build as they have to align with each other

 

 

An overhead view of a common crossing with the special chairs attached, 3 block chair central parts far better than chopped up standard chairs also the different style of nose chair just adds to the detail, sadly completely missed by most

[hayfield]

 

Plan for the double slip special chairs in place, though initially bridge and small chairs populate the middle section of the stock rails (see photo 3)

 

 

Close up view of the plan/instructions for the (double)slip chairs, single slip uses half of the same chairs

 

 

Stock rails being stuck in position, only 4 special chairs at this moment as the outer ends are using check rail and normal chairs

 

 

2 sets of crossing/switch rails formed, soon to be cut up as the blades will be hinged, also a piece of 0,5 mm copperclad has been soldered in place to hold the central crossing in place (most of it will be cut away

[hayfield]

 

The switch/crossing rail has been cut twice so I can make hinged switch blades, cast fishplates are soldered to the centre section at both ends

 

 

Centre section now soldered in place, the switches are just pushed in place

 

 

3 crossing rails now soldered in place. My new Vee rail filing jig does make filing the angles on the rails so much easier and quicker

 

 

All 4 soldered in place, I need to slightly reduce the length of the bottom 2 rails

 

Whilst I just have to make the 2 centre slip rails and 6 check rails, I now need to step back as see about fitting some of the chairs.

[hayfield]

 

The final bit of last nights work after altering a couple of crossing rail lengths then realising I had left off a couple of chairs

 

 

The central K crossing check rail

 

 

One of the slip switch rails which is slightly over length, prior to cutting into 3 sections. Check rails being fitted

 

 

An overhead view showing the central slip rail has been cut, cast fishplates soldered to it, switch rails have been cut to length and a series of block chairs have been fitted around the join. No chairs will be fitted in the central part until the copperclad strips have been cut to length and stuck in place

 

 

View of work to date. One thing I have been wondering is that would the block chairs hold the crossing in place without the copperclad strips. They do in P4, I wonder if they would in either EM or 00SF gauges, Its a great pity that the system used for the P4 kit company turnout and crossing kits were never developed for EM and 00 gauges. Still 3D printing may have the answer 

 

 

[PjKing1]

Oh you make it look so easy John

 

Cheers, Paul

[hayfield]

Paul

 

Thanks, likes most things practice always helps. But simple jigs aids assembly no end. In the end nothing like having a go and accepting making a few mistakes will happen on the way. Most seem to want to run before they can walk, starting with something complex and doing it too quickly, which always ends in disappointment.

 

If only you could go down to the local model shop and buy a simple kit (SMP) with a gauge cheaply and just have a go  http://www.marcway.net/list3.php?col=head&name=OO+COPPER+CLAD+KITS no connection as I bought mine from the original company.  Start with a copperclad kit first, then buy some parts(cheaper) and practice. C&L/Exactoscale parts/kits just use similar processes so an easy transfer of skills

Edited December 11, 2015 by hayfield

[PjKing1]

Totally agree John, it's far to easy to want to rush when building the track, I know that's where I became unstuck but on the third attempt I just took my time an up to now it's going well.

 

Cheers, Paul

[hayfield]

I am mentor(ing) a friend in track building and thought I had cracked it in getting someone taking their time. Wrong !! I must say its been a great learning curve for him just trying to reign him back in a bit. Still we all were there at one time

[hayfield]

Very early start this morning and after a couple of cups of coffee and a quick read through RMweb a quick nap was required

 

 

These are the slip chairs, two of these are required for a double slip. For a single slip one is required along with an obtuse crossing pack.  If you take a closer at the larger sprue you will see plenty of block chairs. These are used where the gap between 2 rails is too small for 2 seperate chairs. On the common crossing and switch rail chairs these are in 3 parts, many on this sprue hold one of the 2 rails and are in 2 parts rather than 3 parts

 

 

A closer view of the sprue, you don't get these on an 00 gauge RTR turnout

[HealeyMills]

It always baffles me how you know which chair goes where!!

 

Absolutely superb work though, I love reading this thread and watching your work.

 

Cheers

Lee

[hayfield]

Lee

 

If you look back to post 462 you will see 2 photos with the Exactoscale chair position sheet, also you will see I leave notes on my plan. I basically know the common crossing and switch positions now, though normally I do check my notes.

 

There is a whole group of chair position plans on C&L site in the Knowledge Centre/4mm track

http://www.finescale.org.uk/pdfs/1-7%20Diamond%20&%20Slips.pdf

Here is the 1:7 diamond and slip instructions, you will also need the common crossing instructions. Simple when you have the instructions.

 

I may try either a single slip or a diamond crossing using the chairs only in 00sf, to see if I can mimic the P4 kit. Except for the common crossing as in the P4 kit these come ready assembled (soldered).

 

 

Edit

 

 

Photo from earlier post

Edited December 11, 2015 by hayfield

[hayfield]

 

The second slip rail has been made, cut into 3 pieces and the central section soldered into place

 

 

Both switch rails now fitted

 

 

The sleeper under one of the places where the rails have been soldered together has peen pealed back

 

 

The copperclad strips have been cut back flush with the rail sides

 

 

The sleeper has been put back into place with a spot of superglue on the copperclad bases, then the chairs have been stuck in place

 

 

The other side has been now been treated the same leaving the central sleeper position to be altered once everything has been set

 

Once the central part has been trimmed all there is to do is to fit the tiebars, then tested

[hayfield]

A quick teaser

 

 

Plan of the left hand side

 

 

Build under way

[gazman424]

Hi John,

 Firstly, let me say thanks for all the inspirations and tips I have picked up following your thread - great work!!

But, one thing that has always puzzled me! May I ask why you use a steel rule to align your timbers on the straight stock rail side?

I have had the misfortune of having to be in attendance at various times when the P-Way were involved in re-timbering work on points, and I can assure you they don't take the same care as yourself when it comes to alignment!! Indeed, at times, they will drag a timber out of alignment and re-bore it if the original holes have become rotten or worn to save the expense of a new timber.

 This is not meant in anyway as a criticism, just an honest query!!

Thanks,

Gaz.

[trisonic]

A quick teaser

 

Build under way

Gauntlet or Gantlet!

 

Nice idea. Some examples around me in the USA. Mainly to redirect double stacked containers away from station awnings...

 

Best, Pete.

Edited December 16, 2015 by trisonic