Dock Green

[chaz]

I have used a small pin vice, as used when drilling with small drills, held in the normal vice. The tube will fit through the normally hollow handle with the required length sticking out of the chuck allowing the piece to be cut off but without the need to hold the tube as you are doing in the photo.

 

 

Wally

 

Quite so, Wally. However N15's technique is even better as you don't have to hold the tube at all.

 

Chaz

[chaz]

I was reflecting on various working methods while I was soldering little bits of 2mm tube onto the ladder bars of the streetlights and realised I have a dim memory of once cutting tube using the rolling knife technique. So how many other useful techniques have I learnt, used and now forgotten?  

 

Incidentally if the wire that you insert into the tube has its end bent into an "L" shape it prevents the cut piece pinging across the room. I found that the cut was completed with a satisfying "chink" noise and - a bonus - very little in the way of a burr to remove.

 

Well done Peter for reminding me of this most useful technique.

 

Chaz

[chaz]

Beware the sun!

 

When Dock Green was at the Wimborne Show during the morning the sun was streaming in very brightly through windows behind the layout. The bottom storey of the warehouse, a single 5mm thick layer of foamboard with SE Finecast plastic brick sheet glued to it and painted, lit up in dramatic and most unrealistic fashion. To prevent a re-occurence of the "radioactive brick effect" I have painted the back of this section with Process Black acrylic. Even so testing it last night with a high intensity LED torch showed the need for a second coat.

 

it was quite a surprise to me that 5mm thick foamboard plus the brick seemed almost translucent - something to bear in mind if you are working with foamboard; a similar problem might arise with internally lit buildings.

 

Chaz

[chaz]

More progress, some of it dull and some of it a bit more interesting...

 

Two street lights painted and installed on bridge #1.

 

 

I am pleased with the look of these.

 

 

 

They both need glazing and something in the housing to represent the light bulbs... I would prefer to use grain-of-wheat bulbs but the only ones I have seen have thick plastic-insulated wires attached. You used to be able to get them with very fine wires - are these still available, I wonder?

 

 

I do like getting these eye level snaps......even if it shows these pavements to be the cleanest in town.

 

Chaz

Edited June 12, 2013 by chaz

[N15class]

I do like the lamps your work has really paid off.

[chaz]

I do like the lamps your work has really paid off.

 

Thanks Peter. Credit must be given to Peter Harvey (PHDesigns) for his design work for the etched brass lamp housings. I can't imagine how one could scratch-build these.

 

Chaz

[PaulCheffus]

 

They both need glazing and something in the housing to represent the light bulbs... I would prefer to use grain-of-wheat bulbs but the only ones I have seen have thick plastic-insulated wires attached. You used to be able to get them with very fine wires - are these still available, I wonder?

 

Chaz

Hi

 

What about using a surface mount LED attached to the inside of the top of the lamp and connecting enamelled copper wire to it to provide the power.

 

Another option for the grain of wheat bulb would be to connect one side of the supply to the actual lamp then you would only need to get one wire down the post.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

[chaz]

Hi

 

What about using a surface mount LED attached to the inside of the top of the lamp and connecting enamelled copper wire to it to provide the power.

 

Another option for the grain of wheat bulb would be to connect one side of the supply to the actual lamp then you would only need to get one wire down the post.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

 

thanks for the suggestions Paul. I'm not particularly bothered about making the lights work - it never looks that convincing IMHO, but I do need something in the housing to make them look like they would work.

 

Chaz

[ScottY80]

 

 

 

They both need glazing and something in the housing to represent the light bulbs... I would prefer to use grain-of-wheat bulbs but the only ones I have seen have thick plastic-insulated wires attached. You used to be able to get them with very fine wires - are these still available, I wonder?

 

 

 

The Hornby lighting system has very fine wires.  I have used them in the past and they work quite well although I never bother with the plug system they sell in that range.

 

Here is the link from the Hornby website if you haven't seen them before - http://www.Hornby.com/shop/skalelighting/r8951-skalelighting-extension-wire-13-meters/

 

 

Scott

[chaz]

The Hornby lighting system has very fine wires.  I have used them in the past and they work quite well although I never bother with the plug system they sell in that range.

 

Here is the link from the Hornby website if you haven't seen them before - http://www.Hornby.com/shop/skalelighting/r8951-skalelighting-extension-wire-13-meters/

 

 

Scott

 

Thanks Scott for the link. Having looked at the picture of the lamps in that Hornby list the section where the wires are joined to the bulb does look quite bulky. The hole down the centre of the post is only 1mm so offers no room for hiding anything other than the finest of wires. I think I am going to have to form some non-working bulb shape in clear plastic to serve as a "bulb". It might be a glass bead if I can find one small enough or even a blob of glue on the end of a piece of blackened brass wire.

 

One other thing I might try is fibre optics. The fibres are available in sub-millimetre diameters, and would allow the use of any small bulb, as it doesn't have to be in the lamp housing. There also no problems with insulation. Does anyone know if it's possible to form a bulb shape on the end of a fibre?

 

Chaz

[Softvark]

Hi Chaz

 

How about a grain of rice bulb like this http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/TruOpto-Rice-Grain-Meter-Bulb-81587

 

You could then cut the leads short and solder on enamelled wire to pass down the post. You can get very fine enamelled wire but you would probably want something around 30 swg to make it manageable http://www.rapidonline.com/Cables-Connectors/Enamelled-Copper-Wire-62484

 

Fibre optics produce a very narrow beam of light so you would have to create something to diffuse the beam on the end of the fibre. I'm not too sure how you would do that such that the light was even.

 

Julian

[R A Watson]

Most lamps of this type were originally gas and then converted to electricity.

 

The gas supply was a pipe which ran up through the post and then did a swan neck turn to allow the mantle to hang downwards. On conversion the gas pipe was used as a conduit and a bulb holder replaced the mantle fitment.

 

A piece of thin fibre optic could replace the pipe and if a small blob of clear epoxy was put on the end this will replicate the mantle/bulb.

 

Wally

[chaz]

Hi Chaz

 

How about a grain of rice bulb like this http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/TruOpto-Rice-Grain-Meter-Bulb-81587

 

You could then cut the leads short and solder on enamelled wire to pass down the post. You can get very fine enamelled wire but you would probably want something around 30 swg to make it manageable http://www.rapidonline.com/Cables-Connectors/Enamelled-Copper-Wire-62484

 

Fibre optics produce a very narrow beam of light so you would have to create something to diffuse the beam on the end of the fibre. I'm not too sure how you would do that such that the light was even.

 

Julian

 

Thanks Julian for the link. The bulb in the Rapid catalogue looks a distinct possibility. At that price I can afford to buy a few and experiment. I note that they are designed to work on 1.5V. In the event that I want these to light up I may well wire three or four in series and run them off the 5V supply I use for my servos. I have some quite fine insulated single strand wire, which was made for wire wrap prototyping and is certainly fine enough to pass down the posts. I will also buy some fine shrink wrap to protect the soldered joints against short circuits.

 

You are quite right about the fibre optics. I have found a few strands of the plastic type. I found it impossible to form anything but the smallest bulb on the end with heat - any attempt to make a larger one just shrivelled up the fibre. Also, as you say, the light is very directional - any attempt to diffuse it weakens the intensity so much it's next to useless.

 

Chaz

Edited June 13, 2013 by chaz

[chaz]

Most lamps of this type were originally gas and then converted to electricity.

 

The gas supply was a pipe which ran up through the post and then did a swan neck turn to allow the mantle to hang downwards. On conversion the gas pipe was used as a conduit and a bulb holder replaced the mantle fitment.

 

A piece of thin fibre optic could replace the pipe and if a small blob of clear epoxy was put on the end this will replicate the mantle/bulb.

 

Wally

 

thanks for the information on the real lamps, Wally. I think I have more or less ruled out fibre optics after a few experiments in the last hour. (see above)

 

Chaz

[chaz]

Yet another boring job...

I have just fitted a sloping shelf to carry the operating sequence cards. As this must be removed to store or transport the boards it's held on with two bolts through the brass brackets.

 

 

Chaz

[chaz]

I started adding grime to some of the brickwork on Dock Green today.  A tin of Humbrol #33 (matte black) was thinned 2:1 with Precision paints PS9 - "Quick Air Drying Thinners" and loaded into the airbrush jar. (Yes - the whole tin - there's a lot of brick to dirty up - in fact I bought a second tin just in case.....)

 

The retaining wall and bridge pier in the picture above were removed from the layout for spraying. The walls on the side of the gradient are fixed and will have to be sprayed in situ. The bright, clean brick is an interesting "before" to the other brick's "after".

 

The bridge in the background of the shot above will be done next. Whether the retaining wall is quite dark enough I'm not sure. When I was spraying it looked very dark. When I have dealt with the bridge and the gradient I will assess the overall effect - if it looks too light I can always add another layer of soot. The result is a bit patchy but I don't dislike that - the slight uneveness looks natural to me.

 

No apologies for posing the industrial estates's Peckett saddle tank "Susan" in front of the dirty brick. It is one of my favourite models.

 

 

I will need to spray some grime onto the signal - as it's surroundings now look so dirty the brilliant white of the post and the red arm stand out and are not too convincing.

 

Spraying the brickwork to darken it and suppress the bright, almost garish brand-new look was a job that I didn't relish - the chance of wrecking all that work was worrying. Now I have done a bit I feel quite relieved - the effect is most encouraging and I will go ahead and deal with the rest.

 

Chaz

Edited June 14, 2013 by chaz

[chaz]

It's an ill wind...

More sooty black sprayed on yesterday. In fact on the brickwork of the stairs down from bridge #1 (the one by the warehouse) to ground level I thought I had overdone it. This caused more than a little anglo-saxon until I hit on a lucky remedy. I thought I had nothing to lose, some very light application of a fibre-glass scratch brush may well lighten the brick by allowing more of the red to show. Of course it would be very easy to go right through the black, the brick red and even the buff, revealing the white of the foam board brick sheet - which is why the scratching has to be very gentle, taking off some of the black in a very controlled way. It takes a while to do even a small area but it's worth it, I think, and the result really does look like dirty brick. The patchiness adds to the effect. i wouldn't want use this effect on all the brick - there is a lot of it - but for one or two prominent sections it's a nice feature. There is more to do yet but I'm getting there.

 

Again a photo shows up every little defect.

 

The photos have made the surfaces look slightly shiny but in the flesh they are quite matte.

Chaz

Edited June 18, 2013 by chaz

[chaz]

What I didn't do in yesterday's posting was include a "before and after" snap. I am using the same technique on the water tower so here's an "in progress" photo. Interesting how the paint ends with a slightly purple tinge - which is much how I remember the real brickwork. A very dense flat black might actually be prototypical but I prefer the traces of red brick showing through - sometimes what looks right is not necessarily what is right. The tank needs weathering too, it will get some rust and its own grime later.

 

 

A few points if you are going to try this...

• As I said before a light touch is necessary - it wouldn't be that difficult to go right through the paint - back to square one!
• Be very careful around raised detail - and that includes corners - much easier to go right through the paint there.
• This technique is, like many weathering methods, progressive. You can see the change developing - the trick is knowing when to stop.

Chaz

Edited June 19, 2013 by chaz

[chaz]

Another excuse to post a few snaps...

 

As bridge #4 is so narrow with no pavements I have mounted the street lights on the parapet walls. I might add a set of cable conduits later.

 

 

 

 

 

Still no glazing or any evidence of anything that might light up - a couple of jobs for later.

 

Chaz

Edited June 20, 2013 by chaz

[chaz]

A mate came round and took a whole load of close ups with his Iphone. When he showed them to me I thought I would have a go with my Lumix compact.
A good title for this posting might well be "Photos that nobody ever took".

 

 

A cruel photo that shows the lack of barbs on the barbed wire, but the chain-link looks excellent.

 

 

....quite a surprise that somebody hasn't helped themselves to that little pile, if only for firewood....

 

 

I sprayed a little grime on the starter signal, to tone down the glaring white and the bright red - it looks a little more at home now in the dirt and squalor of Dock Green yard (although it's not really evident in this photo).

 

 

Some of the round bar in that steel rack looks surprisingly chunky, I do hope they have a fork-lift or small mobile crane.

 

More later.

 

Chaz

Edited June 21, 2013 by chaz

[asa]

Chaz it looks fantastic mate,inspirings the word.

[DLT]

Very convincing set of photos Chaz, and I love the corrugated iron.

All the best,

Dave.

[chaz]

Chaz it looks fantastic mate,inspirings the word.

 

Thanks for that comment, Asa. I must admit I was stunned that I when I take such extreme close-ups the result looks as convincing as it does. Of course the camera is able to concentrate on these tiny sections, which might well be missed by somebody standing and looking.

 

Chaz

[chaz]

Very convincing set of photos Chaz, and I love the corrugated iron.

All the best,

Dave.

 

I think I have said before Dave that I have much enjoyed your Bridport and Charmouth layouts and found them most convincing. That makes your appreciative comments all the more encouraging....

 

Chaz

[chaz]

Oh dear. Having glued the sand on the track and painted it to downgrade the ballast I found that I needed to adjust the throw of the servos yet again. At this point I discovered an intermittent fault in the wiring to the servo driver boards (MERG Servo4s). Try as I might I couldn't find this fault and even a fairly thorough re-working of many of the solder joints failed to eliminate it.

 

I just can't tolerate a known fault, it would be unacceptable to me to take the layout to a show not knowing if it would work properly, we certainly would not be able to operate it with some of the points dead. The fault being intermittent meant that even if I did correct it I wouldn't necessarily know, and so couldn't be confident that it wouldn't re-appear. Given that, and the obvious fragility of the point settings using servos, I made a drastic decision. I am going to remove the servos and replace them with Tortoise motors. As the wiring required to operate these is quite different I am going to strip it all out and remake it (I didn't do the original wiring but I can make sure that the replacement set is sound). Tortoise motors have been in use on my home layout for about 12 years and have proved to very reliable, the only problem I have ever had is that with a few of them the internal switches have started to misbehave. So far this has been easy to fix. Of course you have to open them up to do it but 12 years is a long way out of guarantee!

 

I hate wiring, it's one of the most tedious and uninspiring jobs on a model railway but I judge it's worth spending a day or two if the result is a much more reliable system.

 

Ho Hum.

 

Chaz