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Grantham - the Streamliner years


LNER4479

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I'll no doubt get some stick for posting this image:

 

attachicon.gifThomas the naughty engine.jpg

I spent ages looking for some sort of 'technical 'reason, even an actual stick (e.g one of those handy coffee stirrer ones) and then I spotted a little face......................................... (only took about three minutes and that was having read the photo title...................oh dear, oh dear, I must try harder.

James.

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We had a Percy Lookalike on Green Ayre that kept attracting the attention of kids. Some so called friends found the body in a pound shop and put it on a scratch built chassis then named it Jamie. It ran a bit on Saturday but then one of the wheels came loose so it got sidelined. What are friends for.?

 

Jamie

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

Sorry I missed this show but really enjoyed the photographs from Nottingham, some great photography of an excellent model.  Looking forward to getting to grips with the final stretch of scenery and adding a few extra cameos.

 

Tom2 

 

 

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Guest Brighton_JunctionLNER

morning, 

how are we all?  :) 

 Graham, this question is directed to you....

what is your method of weathering the track? what paint is used? how do you keep the point blades clear etc etc?

cheers 
jesse

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 Graham, this question is directed to you....

 

what is your method of weathering the track? what paint is used? how do you keep the point blades clear etc etc?

 

cheers 

jesse

Hey Jesse!

 

These pics have been posted in the thread somewhere previously but I'll post them again here to hopefully answer some of your questions

 

post-16151-0-19622900-1459795144_thumb.jpg

The painting is a two part process. First of all the rail colour. I use Humbrol Matt 29 (dark brown) and give a healthy spray to both sides of the rail (all this of course before you actually lay the track). Don't be tempted to use any sort of orangey rust colour; real, living rail in regular use is rarely that colour - it only goes rusty when it's dis-used.

 

post-16151-0-87324000-1459795168_thumb.jpg

The second part is the 'trick'. Position the already sprayed track at 90 degrees then spray over with a different colour for the sleepers. I normally use Tamiya Red Brown TS-1 (although pic shows some other can I was using at the time!). By spraying at 90 deg, the M29 on the sides of the rail should survive.

 

post-16151-0-52935900-1459795755_thumb.jpg

I then wait until the paint is dry to remove the paint from the rail head. It chips off quite easily.

 

Point blades? I'm a bit lazy - again I just clean them up (emery paper) once the paint has dried. You could mask them off before spraying of course.

 

post-16151-0-52409900-1459796000_thumb.jpg

Any true weathering has been a bit limited to date (it's on the 'to do' list). The trackwork illustrated has had some localised colour added, trying to trace out the quite distinctive darker strips along the sleeper ends that corresponds with where steam locos habitually dripped and sprayed a combination of steam and oil, mixed up with brake dust and other such contaminants. Quite distinctive in steam era photos; weathering patterns with modern stock is a little different.

 

Hope that helps! All the above is what I do; other methods are available.

Edited by LNER4479
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Guest Brighton_JunctionLNER

Hey Jesse!

 

These pics have been posted in the thread somewhere previously but I'll post them again here to hopefully answer some of your questions

 

attachicon.gifIMG_8185.JPG

The painting is a two part process. First of all the rail colour. I use Humbrol Matt 29 (dark brown) and give a healthy spray to both sides of the rail (all this of course before you actually lay the track). Don't be tempted to use any sort of orangey rust colour; real, living rail in regular use is rarely that colour - it only goes rusty when it's dis-used.

 

attachicon.gifTrackwork2.JPG

The second part is the 'trick'. Position the already sprayed track at 90 degrees then spray over with a different colour for the sleepers. I normally use Tamiya Red Brown TS-1 (although pic shows some other can I was using at the time!). By spraying at 90 deg, the M29 on the sides of the rail should survive.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_8188.JPG

I then wait until the paint is dry to remove the paint from the rail head. It chips off quite easily.

 

Point blades? I'm a bit lazy - again I just clean them up (emery paper) once the paint has dried. You could mask them off before spraying of course.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_6387.JPG

Any true weathering has been a bit limited to date (it's on the 'to do' list). The trackwork illustrated has had some localised colour added, trying to trace out the quite distinctive darker strips along the sleeper ends that corresponds with where steam locos habitually dripped and sprayed a combination of steam and oil, mixed up with brake dust and other such contaminants. Quite distinctive in steam era photos; weathering patterns with modern stock is a little different.

 

Hope that helps! All the above is what I do; other methods are available.

thanks very much, my only problem is that 50% of the scenic track is already laid haha  :pardon:

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Hey Jesse!

 

These pics have been posted in the thread somewhere previously but I'll post them again here to hopefully answer some of your questions

 

attachicon.gifIMG_8185.JPG

The painting is a two part process. First of all the rail colour. I use Humbrol Matt 29 (dark brown) and give a healthy spray to both sides of the rail (all this of course before you actually lay the track). Don't be tempted to use any sort of orangey rust colour; real, living rail in regular use is rarely that colour - it only goes rusty when it's dis-used.

 

attachicon.gifTrackwork2.JPG

The second part is the 'trick'. Position the already sprayed track at 90 degrees then spray over with a different colour for the sleepers. I normally use Tamiya Red Brown TS-1 (although pic shows some other can I was using at the time!). By spraying at 90 deg, the M29 on the sides of the rail should survive.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_8188.JPG

I then wait until the paint is dry to remove the paint from the rail head. It chips off quite easily.

 

Point blades? I'm a bit lazy - again I just clean them up (emery paper) once the paint has dried. You could mask them off before spraying of course.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_6387.JPG

Any true weathering has been a bit limited to date (it's on the 'to do' list). The trackwork illustrated has had some localised colour added, trying to trace out the quite distinctive darker strips along the sleeper ends that corresponds with where steam locos habitually dripped and sprayed a combination of steam and oil, mixed up with brake dust and other such contaminants. Quite distinctive in steam era photos; weathering patterns with modern stock is a little different.

 

Hope that helps! All the above is what I do; other methods are available.

Yea. Even I can do that paint job now thanks to Graham's tutorial. I have done my own since and would just add that the blades can be protected with 'Tamia masking tape' and I had considered using Humbrol Maskol I think it is called. OK so the points need 'touching up' a bit after the spray job but it does keep the blade beautifully clean if that's what you want? What has impressed me about what is done on Grantham is that it is not over complicated when it comes to stuff like this and that layout works, it really does work....I have at last witnessed that quite recently.

I'm unsure if Graham will be impressed with something I'm going to show him regarding the foam underlay! It involves using inverted, chamfered cork strips in selected areas in the 'Cess position', as I found that the foam looked a little deep for my purposes. 

Only thing I'd add is that if you have a trash point have a practise (if you haven't I've got some rubbish set track ones in a box....PM me if you lie).

Oh yes, these pics have reminded me to be more bold when I spray (latest effort was a bit too wafty I think) and also, if fitting droppers to the sides of the rails maybe solder them on first? (Clever people solder their droppers to the underside of the rails of course....................... :drag: )

Sorry to hijack G.

Phil

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Guest Brighton_JunctionLNER

Yea. Even I can do that paint job now thanks to Graham's tutorial. I have done my own since and would just add that the blades can be protected with 'Tamia masking tape' and I had considered using Humbrol Maskol I think it is called. OK so the points need 'touching up' a bit after the spray job but it does keep the blade beautifully clean if that's what you want? What has impressed me about what is done on Grantham is that it is not over complicated when it comes to stuff like this and that layout works, it really does work....I have at last witnessed that quite recently.

I'm unsure if Graham will be impressed with something I'm going to show him regarding the foam underlay! It involves using inverted, chamfered cork strips in selected areas in the 'Cess position', as I found that the foam looked a little deep for my purposes. 

Only thing I'd add is that if you have a trash point have a practise (if you haven't I've got some rubbish set track ones in a box....PM me if you lie).

Oh yes, these pics have reminded me to be more bold when I spray (latest effort was a bit too wafty I think) and also, if fitting droppers to the sides of the rails maybe solder them on first? (Clever people solder their droppers to the underside of the rails of course....................... :drag: )

Sorry to hijack G.

Phil

i have DCC and i have wired it up so it doesnt matter how dirty the point blades get there will still be power flowing through, so i hope it doesnt matter.

 

we shall find out haha

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Guest Brighton_JunctionLNER

Far out! Must have been about a year since I checked in, I've been so busy with my own modelling!

It's looking absolutely marvellous!! I wish I was able to see it in the flesh! Hopefully I might one day!

 

Keep up the brilliant work!

 

Peter

G'day mate, nice to see another young aussie into ECML shame its BR Eastern not pure LNER ;)

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Far out! Must have been about a year since I checked in, I've been so busy with my own modelling!

It's looking absolutely marvellous!! I wish I was able to see it in the flesh! Hopefully I might one day!

 

Keep up the brilliant work!

 

Peter

Thanks Peter - hope you enjoyed your read.

 

I shall pop over and take a look at what you've been up to ... when I have a moment!

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Hey Jesse!

 

These pics have been posted in the thread somewhere previously but I'll post them again here to hopefully answer some of your questions

 

attachicon.gifIMG_8185.JPG

The painting is a two part process. First of all the rail colour. I use Humbrol Matt 29 (dark brown) and give a healthy spray to both sides of the rail (all this of course before you actually lay the track). Don't be tempted to use any sort of orangey rust colour; real, living rail in regular use is rarely that colour - it only goes rusty when it's dis-used.

 

attachicon.gifTrackwork2.JPG

The second part is the 'trick'. Position the already sprayed track at 90 degrees then spray over with a different colour for the sleepers. I normally use Tamiya Red Brown TS-1 (although pic shows some other can I was using at the time!). By spraying at 90 deg, the M29 on the sides of the rail should survive.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_8188.JPG

I then wait until the paint is dry to remove the paint from the rail head. It chips off quite easily.

 

Point blades? I'm a bit lazy - again I just clean them up (emery paper) once the paint has dried. You could mask them off before spraying of course.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_6387.JPG

Any true weathering has been a bit limited to date (it's on the 'to do' list). The trackwork illustrated has had some localised colour added, trying to trace out the quite distinctive darker strips along the sleeper ends that corresponds with where steam locos habitually dripped and sprayed a combination of steam and oil, mixed up with brake dust and other such contaminants. Quite distinctive in steam era photos; weathering patterns with modern stock is a little different.

 

Hope that helps! All the above is what I do; other methods are available.

Hi, I'm just starting out on my first project and was wondering how best to paint the track. This looks a great method, think I will give it a go. Hopefully I will catch your layout at a show, looks fantastic. Cheers.

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Quick 'last post of the page', post-Leipzig curiosity:

 

post-16151-0-48458600-1461008897_thumb.jpg

 

This ... ahem ... 'caught my eye' as you might say, in the leaflet racks. As I don't sprechen the lingo in those parts, I was left wondering what exactly this was celebrating?!

(I think it might have something to do with books but thought I'd share it with you nonetheless!)

 

Proper modelling post to follow shortly.

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OK - time for a bit more modelling (well, I think I can be excused a little bit of time off for good behaviour after two shows in quick succession?)

 

post-16151-0-34509300-1461009509_thumb.jpg

The scenery team are threatening to descend at the weekend so I've designated the Springfield Road area at the back of the shed as the next area of bare boards to be tackled (seeing as how it is quite near the front!). This involves the setting up of main Boards 4 & 5 and Depot Board 4a

 

post-16151-0-87499300-1461009533_thumb.jpg

First job is the archway entrance for the pedestrian tunnel. The basic shape and the tunnel liner was installed when the board was first built (about ... er ...six years ago) and has patiently awaited attention until now (well it doesn't do to rush these things)

 

post-16151-0-62836200-1461009554_thumb.jpg

A cruel close up newly installed. Doesn't look so bad from three feet away!

 

post-16151-0-99916700-1461009621_thumb.jpg

A bit of work on the right hand side to fill in a few gaps

 

post-16151-0-46090500-1461009678_thumb.jpg

At the back of the depot, I need to fashion something believable around what is actually a piece of pure fantasy (ie the roadway disappearing underneath the depot!).

 

post-16151-0-11321800-1461009698_thumb.jpg

Some infill to form the structural base of the 45 degree-ish grass slopes.

 

post-16151-0-84128300-1461009732_thumb.jpg

And the retaining walls, sloped slightly as they were (are!) to withstand the weight of the earth behind them.

 

And with that, it should be a spot of mod-roc'ing next (like that bit!)

Edited by LNER4479
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Quick 'last post of the page', post-Leipzig curiosity:

 

attachicon.gifIMG_6536.JPG

 

This ... ahem ... 'caught my eye' as you might say, in the leaflet racks. As I don't sprechen the lingo in those parts, I was left wondering what exactly this was celebrating?!

(I think it might have something to do with books but thought I'd share it with you nonetheless!)

 

Proper modelling post to follow shortly.

All rather prosaic I'm afraid Graham.

 

From the top:

 

Leipzig Fair

 

The Joy of Reading: 2016

 

Welcome to the Leipzig Book Fair with the largest reading festival in Europe - Leipzig Reads.

 

Information 2016

 

Leipzig Book Fair - Leipzig Reads - 17 - 20 March 2016.

 

Sorry if that's a bit of a let-down - "Lust" in German doesn't have the "primal urge" connotations that it does in English. Anyway, you've missed it now!

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Some layouts are more equal than others! I read that somewhere.................................may have been in the Peco Bullhead Track 'Battle Units Logistical Long-term Strategic Hostiles' Internment Treatment'  information booklet?

Ar$e

P.S. Why do I prefer brick to steel and plastic? Is it some sort of condition?

Edited by Mallard60022
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