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Hi Andrew,

I'm interested in modelling 69481 - an interesting example as it was a saturated engine with part of its condensing apparatus removed. (see attached photo).  So, I think I would be interested in the condensing apparatus on a separate sprue as suggested. How would I go about ordering this. Also, if, instead of a Hornby chassis, one of the direct replacement chassis for the Hornby one was used (a la Bradwell or Comet for example) would this still fit? This is because I model in EM. To your knowledge, has anyone tried this?

 

Regards

 

Clem

 

Hi Clem,

I will PM you shortly with info.

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AJ 

 

Your models of the N1 and J50 are excellent.The photo of Bradford Hammerton Street shed often appears in shed books and is very useful for the modeller - on shed are nearly all GN designs J50s, J6s, and N1. There is a J39? lurking at the end of the left hand road and possibly a J52 in the same road.

 

I have modelled a couple of J50s (see attached) and found that the blower control rod didn't always pass under the plating between the boiler and the tank - you need to find a photo of the loco you want at the correct time.

 

My J50s are Hornsey shedded engines which complement a N1, J6, J52 and two N2s

 

The near one is 68950 J50/3 a DJH kit more a less as per the kit - with the tank boiler plating added. The head code is a freight from Ferme Park to Hither Green via the widened lines.

 

 

J50/4 68989 is a more interesting pedigree - a heavily detailed Lima body, a Jackson Evans detailing kit, Gibson sprung buffers, home made injectors. The chasiss is plastic - 1.5mm poly carbonate machined to the correct depth, glued and screwed to plastic frame spacers. The chassis is compensated using MJT hornblocks. It runs on Gibson wheels but one has slipped and it needs to go into the workshop!! Can't remember what the motor and gearbox combo is but the plastic body is stuffed with lead sheet and shot!!

 

Good luck with the J50 project.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Some further work has been done on the FUD printed J50 chassis to verify its feasibility. The dimensions have remained stable since printing and painting with no shrinkage at all. By contrast the two bodies I had done on the same print have both shrunk very slightly. I surmise that the rigid box structure of the chassis as opposed to the more open structure of the bodies has prevented this.
So far I've fitted bearings, a High Level Loadhauler & motor, Gibson wheels and coupling rods, lead ballast, and finally pick-ups. I still need to add pick-ups for the front wheels as well as some more ballast.

Unfortunately some of the peripheral details (guard irons, brake parts and springs) have proved too flimsy and have been damaged due to manhandling but otherwise so far so good - the running is nice and smooth (albeit rather slow - this gearbox was originally intended for another project) and has proved the concept for further development. The flimsy parts have been redesigned for the next test print.

 

The version for the Bachmann Pannier chassis sits a little too high at the moment so needs a small redesign.

 

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  • 4 months later...

It's been a while since an update on this. I've been concentrating on the J50/3 printed chassis and body and it's gone through several redesigns to improve robustness and accommodate a different gearbox (Roadrunner+). There have also been some printing issues with Shapeways involving quality issues and missing parts (details of which can be found on my blog) which have ultimately been resolved satisfactorily but have required several reprints. Here's some pics of the final test chassis and body as received after cleaning. The right cab steps were also missed off and a replacement pair have been sprued up inside the chassis along with the brake blocks. GNR and LNER buffers and under cab pipework are included on a sprue under the body.

 

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Looks terrific Andy. How do the bodies stand up in terms of weight? I have been testing mine and found it a little light on traction, possibly due to the difference in weight between it and the original Pannier tank body. With a proper chassis and mashima motor I suspect yours will be superior (though I hope to add a little lead weight to mine and it will be much better for it). It certainly looks the part - the best J50 one can buy at the minute, by quite some way. Miles ahead of the Lima model and the DJH model.

 

On a related note, I should have some pictures for you in the next week. Paint and a smokebox door dart to be sorted and we'll be there with the Pannier chassis J50.

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Looks terrific Andy. How do the bodies stand up in terms of weight? I have been testing mine and found it a little light on traction, possibly due to the difference in weight between it and the original Pannier tank body. With a proper chassis and mashima motor I suspect yours will be superior (though I hope to add a little lead weight to mine and it will be much better for it). It certainly looks the part - the best J50 one can buy at the minute, by quite some way. Miles ahead of the Lima model and the DJH model.

 

On a related note, I should have some pictures for you in the next week. Paint and a smokebox door dart to be sorted and we'll be there with the Pannier chassis J50.

 

Definitely needs weight Simon. It runs just about acceptably with just lead weight in the chassis but should be vastly improved with more added to the body. There's ample space to put weight (smokebox, bunker and side tanks) even allowing for fitting a decoder. I need to experiment with this and what works best.

 

Looking forward to the pics.

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  • 2 weeks later...

post-1656-0-47392300-1401664247.jpg

 

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Pictures of the modifications I have undertaken. I have lowered the body a smidgen, added white metal buffers Group Standard buffers (there's nothing inherently wrong with the 3D printed buffers provided, but these were spare from other projects and waste not, want not) and started drilling out for handrails. I am still lacking a suitable smokebox door handle and this will be my next purchase. 

 

Also note the removal of the outside brake hangers on the Bachmann Pannier chassis - as simple as using a scalpel and carefully cutting away each section from the brake blocks.

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attachicon.gifCIMG8584_1.jpg

 

attachicon.gifCIMG8586_1.jpg

 

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Pictures of the modifications I have undertaken. I have lowered the body a smidgen, added white metal buffers Group Standard buffers (there's nothing inherently wrong with the 3D printed buffers provided, but these were spare from other projects and waste not, want not) and started drilling out for handrails. I am still lacking a suitable smokebox door handle and this will be my next purchase. 

 

Also note the removal of the outside brake hangers on the Bachmann Pannier chassis - as simple as using a scalpel and carefully cutting away each section from the brake blocks.

 

Nice work Simon, starting to look the part now.

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It's been a while since an update on this. I've been concentrating on the J50/3 printed chassis and body and it's gone through several redesigns to improve robustness and accommodate a different gearbox (Roadrunner+). There have also been some printing issues with Shapeways involving quality issues and missing parts (details of which can be found on my blog) which have ultimately been resolved satisfactorily but have required several reprints. Here's some pics of the final test chassis and body as received after cleaning. The right cab steps were also missed off and a replacement pair have been sprued up inside the chassis along with the brake blocks. GNR and LNER buffers and under cab pipework are included on a sprue under the body.

 

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The translucence/opacity reminds me of Lalique perfume bottles..... :sungum:

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attachicon.gifCIMG8648_1.jpg

 

AJmodels J50/3

 

More work on AJModels latest 3D printed body shell on my blog. I think it's a superb body shell kit and it's going together very easily. Certainly by far and away better than the Lima model or the DJH kit (by virtue of the ease of build and the exquisite detail).

 

That's looking excellent Simon, and the write up's coming along nicely too. The removal of the pannier's sandboxes makes even more of an impact I think. Will you try and disguise the pannier's balance weights with more half-moon looking ones?

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That's looking excellent Simon, and the write up's coming along nicely too. The removal of the pannier's sandboxes makes even more of an impact I think. Will you try and disguise the pannier's balance weights with more half-moon looking ones?

 

I haven't as yet decided Andrew, but I am thinking it over. It may well be that I decide it's a working model and therefore it won't be too noticeable. However one cannot deny that it jars the look of the model when you are acquainted with the real thing in photographs so well. We shall see. I hope to have it completed by the end of next week so that it can go oop north for a stint on a famous model railway layout. Watch this space.

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A little more progress on my J50/2 body with some detailing added. The buffer beam is from the Jackson detailing kit designed for the Lima body which I thought I might as well use. This particular body is designed for my experimental 3d printed chassis but is here seen sitting on an etched brass chassis obtained from ebay some time ago. Again, waste not want not - it's dimensionally accurate and runs freely and just needs a motor and gearbox and brake details.

 

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Edited by AJ427
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  • 2 weeks later...

I read earlier that it would be possible to scale up to 7mm.

 

What sort of cost would that incur for the J50?

 

Hi Jeff,

 

It's important to remember that any 3d cad model designed for 3d printing is not a model of the actual prototype, rather it is designed to be a scale model of the prototype and has to follow strict manufacturing rules regarding minimum size details and wall thickness. Although this is perfectly possible really all you would be doing is scaling a 4mm model up to 7mm along with all the (relatively) crude 4mm details. So you'd end up with things like oversize rivets and walls far thicker than they needed to be. Additionally the resultant size of the model would now be too big to print with the higher resolution materials such as Frosted Ultra Detail so you'd have to change that to just standard Frosted Detail. For the best results a model needs to be designed at the scale it's intended for.

Most of the cost of additive manufacture is based on the volume of material used so you'd be looking at around £200-300 (depending on material) for a model of this sort of size in 7mm.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I'd really love to build that J50, printed chassis & all. The more you look at it, the printed chassis makes sense. For starters, less experience modellers could have a crack at it without having to solder up etches & it would be easier to wire up given as, being made out of plastic presumably, it's already insulated. Would be nice to see more classes like, & I know someone's already pointed this out, the N7 or maybe even the E4 2-4-0

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  • 1 month later...

A loco at the back of my mind as a future model was the rather elegant L&YR Aspinall Class 27 or 'A' Class. Having recently seen here, Coachman's excellent conversion of a Bachmann C Class chassis for use as a RTR chassis beneath his Craftsman kit, I was inspired to give it a go as a 3d print. A C class was duly purchased and examined. The chassis is not 100% accurate but is very close and comes with the benefit of good running and reliability. It will be a tight fit though and some small compromises will be required. The tender will need to be completely 3d printed (other than the wheels).

These are the first draft renders of the model. Ignore the threepenny bit look of the curves - that's just how AutoCad's inbuilt renderer represents them, the STL output will be smooth. Some work is still to be done in determining the cutout for the motor and the chassis fitment. Also I'm not sure on some of the tender details, especially the front parts, as I only have images of preserved 1300 to go on here.

 

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The C class isn't cheap so I intend to re-use as much of it as possible - the backhead is again, not 100% accurate, but very similar, will fit over the motor and is better than anything that could be printed. The C class raised safety valve assembly is a separate piece and will also be reused (if I can remove it, there seems to be a lot of glue).

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The Class 27 looks very tasty!  I'd be very interested in at least one of these but will the splashers provide clearance for P4 wheels?  Are there any wheelbase compromises for the C class chassis as you may be interested to know that (if I recall correctly) the L&YR Society (Dave Carter) can supply an etched chassis for this loco which may be adaptable for your "top half" of the loco.  A variety of tenders was attached to these locos and details of these (as well as much information about the locos) may be found in Barry Lane's splendid book, "Lancashire & Yorkshire Railway Locomotives".

 

PM me if you would like any information from this book.

 

Stan

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The Class 27 looks very tasty!  I'd be very interested in at least one of these but will the splashers provide clearance for P4 wheels?  Are there any wheelbase compromises for the C class chassis as you may be interested to know that (if I recall correctly) the L&YR Society (Dave Carter) can supply an etched chassis for this loco which may be adaptable for your "top half" of the loco.  A variety of tenders was attached to these locos and details of these (as well as much information about the locos) may be found in Barry Lane's splendid book, "Lancashire & Yorkshire Railway Locomotives".

 

PM me if you would like any information from this book.

 

Stan

 

Hi Stan,

It's drawn to scale width (based on the plans I have which came from Railway Modeller and I'm not convinced are are definitely not 100% accurate) so in theory should be OK for P4 - the possible problem would be in the width of the splasher wall which needs to be a minimum of 0.6mm and ideally 1mm so this would reduce the overall clearance. That said it would be a minor job to ease out the position of the splashers to accommodate a P4 wheelset if required. There is a wheelbase compromise - 1mm out but I've drawn the splashers in the correct position anyway as it doesn't seem noticeable on Larry's conversion using the Craftsman body.

 

 

Looks super. Do you think a class 28 would be much more work/would work on the same chassis?

 

Hi Corbs,

It would be a bit more work but there's no reason it wouldn't work on the same chassis.

EDIT: In fact the increased vertical space afforded by the Belpaire may also mean it would work with the 3F chassis which has a slightly too high motor position for the Class 27.

Edited by AJ427
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