scot6p Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 Hi Jonathan, I have built two Jubilee's and part built a Black 5 (all Brassmasters) with RG4's and with Gibson and Ultrascale wheels all in P4. I think they are lovely kits provided you take time, the Jubilee's I had for 20 years which is a long time. You will properly need to cut a slot in the boiler for the motor to clear it. I use pins for the valve gear, make the heads smaller by putting them in a drill using a file. If you need any help let me know. Len Cattley Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbax Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 Evening All The stephenson Black 5 is intended for use on the Alesbury layout under construction in P4 by the Risborough & District MRC. As for tenders, I have made four stanier to date, all are compensated, and one Fowler whic is a later model and CSB. Having said the above, on the last attempt on the Brassmasters Stanier tender, I got into a real mess with the rivited overlay, just goes to show that we can all forget how we did it earlier, my solution was to use a commet kit to provide the sides. Personnally I aim to get things running and try to get it to look right, I am not a rivit counter, and if It can't be seen, why model it?? Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rowsley17D Posted July 24, 2012 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 24, 2012 Hi Jonathan, I have built two Jubilee's and part built a Black 5 (all Brassmasters) with RG4's and with Gibson and Ultrascale wheels all in P4. I think they are lovely kits provided you take time, the Jubilee's I had for 20 years which is a long time. You will properly need to cut a slot in the boiler for the motor to clear it. I use pins for the valve gear, make the heads smaller by putting them in a drill using a file. If you need any help let me know. Len Cattley Hi Len Thanks for your kind offer. Mine will be in 00 gauge. I have too much stock to convert, but one day may be? Delivery still threes weeks away, but hopefully the books and MRJ I have ordered will be here before the week is out and I have downloaded the instructions, so plenty of time for studying. Jonathan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 an article in the railway modeller mid 90s on the Gibson black 5 was one I always wanted to try as the result looked superb, especially at the time, I wouldnt have been able to tackle it at the time and probably still not now mind you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted July 25, 2012 Share Posted July 25, 2012 an article in the railway modeller mid 90s on the Gibson black 5 was one I always wanted to try as the result looked superb, especially at the time, I wouldnt have been able to tackle it at the time and probably still not now mind you. I obtained the body components from Alan for my Stephenson project. Quite a solid kit. As with any AG kit that has a cast firebox, check that it's symmetrical - they didn't always come out equal; the Crab & the Std.5 were flawed in that respect. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rowsley17D Posted July 31, 2012 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 31, 2012 Wheels arrived today from Markits.The kit itself is two (hopefully) weeks away. Have studied the LMS Profiles books and will build 5286 which was at Derby shed (17A) in 1936 when new and was still there in 1939. She was at Mold Junction in 1944 and 1948 but was at Upperby by 1957, withdrawn March 1965. Now, once built! do I turn her out in the short-lived 1936 livery ? Jonathan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rowsley17D Posted August 1, 2012 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 1, 2012 A nice big parcel was waiting for me when I got home on a half-day. The Black 5 kit had arrived nearly two weeks early, thank you Brassmasters. So no watching the erlympics for me it was on with the radio and soldering iron. First the bits. I started with the tender chassis and read the instructions a couple of times. I wasn't far into the first bit of fret when I realised that the axles bearings are outside as per the prototype and the Markits wheelset I had were for the more usual inside mounted bearings.So I commandered three pinpoint axles from some coach wheels.I had to turn these down a little to fit between the bearings using the trust drill-in-vice "lathe" and file. By the time my eyes got too tired I had a fragile running chassis. The first bit had gone together well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iankemp Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 looking good so far. Looking forward to see this project finished! Will you be posting pictures of stages you have done? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 I started with the tender chassis and read the instructions a couple of times. I wasn't far into the first bit of fret when I realised that the axles bearings are outside as per the prototype and the Markits wheelset I had were for the more usual inside mounted bearings.So I commandered three pinpoint axles from some coach wheels.I had to turn these down a little to fit between the bearings using the trust drill-in-vice "lathe" and file. By the time my eyes got too tired I had a fragile running chassis. The first bit had gone together well. Just looking at your photo of the outside frames of the tender, how are you now going to fold down the tender tank supports? OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 Are they rendering the tender chassis and frames in brass now? The ones I've got are all nickel-silver! Just looking at your photo of the outside frames of the tender, how are you now going to fold down the tender tank supports? I think I can see a *facepalm* moment fast approaching this thread. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rowsley17D Posted August 3, 2012 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 3, 2012 I didn't have time to fold down the tank supports before taking the photo. Last night I took out the wheels, the frame is very springy, and folded the supports in my small vice. Managed to solder up the inner frames ready to be tacked to the main frames. No photos as I was meeting up with the future Mrs 17D for a meal. I will post some over the weekend as I seem to have a free Saturday once I have shopped, hoovered, dusted, ironed, mown the lawn.... Jonathan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy C Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 No photos as I was meeting up with the future Mrs 17D for a meal. I will post some over the weekend as I seem to have a free Saturday once I have shopped, hoovered, dusted, ironed, mown the lawn.... Jonathan I do appreciate a modeller who accepts the realities of life Now can I slip in a bit of modelling this weekend? Keep the progress updated Jonathon (the kit, not the domestic duties) its much appreciated here as the black box has migrated from the kit cupboard to the workbench Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rowsley17D Posted August 5, 2012 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 5, 2012 Got some more done to the frames yesterday. The inner frames are in place and so is most of the brake gear. It was a bit of a fiddle.The brake blocks and hangers are in three pieces.I cheated and just used two which were super glued together The brake pull rod A frame comes in one piece and is fine if you're working in EM or P4 but the cross pieces have to be cut, shortened and soldered back together for 00!Hope to finsh off the brakes and make a start on the water scoop bits later today. Photos attached. Jonathan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy C Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 Cheeky i know but any chance of having a look inside the frames from underneath Jonathan? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rowsley17D Posted August 5, 2012 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 5, 2012 Cheeky i know but any chance of having a look inside the frames from underneath Jonathan? Andy, I was afraid somebody might ask. So here it is warts and all. Close up photos can be so cruel. I had to trim front pull rods as they were too long.The scoop is temporarily in place so I could work out, more or less, where the internal levers go, but putting them together is like knitting fog. They have to be fitted together while working inside the frames with tweezers and soldering iron and is the modelling 4mm scale equivilent of micro surgery.Just when you think you have made a join the whole lot falls apart and there doesn't appear to be enough links on the fret. It may end up as a representation. On the fret is an equalising beam, but this is not mentioned in the instructions but is in the diagrams. This would be impossible to fit without surgery as the first and middle axles are in the way and the brake hanger wire goes through the middle of it. You can see some of the scoop levers on the H part sticking up in front of the scoop mouth. There is also the economiser unit to fit too, now I'm ready for a glass of red. Jonathan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 Superglue the small bits !! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mucky Duck Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 Nice! Looks a hell of a lot more involved than the Comet tender I'm putting together (I guess it ought to be considering the price difference) and the fiddliness of it suggests that, for the time being at least, it's well beyond of the scope of my abilities… Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rowsley17D Posted August 6, 2012 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 6, 2012 Superglue the small bits !! Mick, my experience with superglue is that it's good for sticking the bits you don't want to stick including fingers. Also you cannot give it a good scrub in soapy water to remove the flux. Jonathan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rowsley17D Posted August 6, 2012 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 6, 2012 Nice! Looks a hell of a lot more involved than the Comet tender I'm putting together (I guess it ought to be considering the price difference) and the fiddliness of it suggests that, for the time being at least, it's well beyond of the scope of my abilities… Mucky, it is a lot more involved than the Comet which I have also built, well the Fowler version anyway.You do get a lot more for your money there must be over ten bits for the water scoop alone.Anybody any ideas as to where that equalising beam goes? Surely it should go over the front and middle axle boxes but there is no room. I doubt it would be seen so will have to miss it out. To answer an earlier post,the tender is all brass. It is different from that which was available when MRJ65 was published which had inside bearings and simpler brake gear and sounded much easier to build. I think the water scoop gear would have been easier to assemble before fitting the wheels and brakegear. Note to self to remember if building future Brassmasters Stanier tenders. The welded tenders had compensated pull rods and the etchings are a masterpiece. Simple rods are included with wire cross-members for the riveted and part riveted versions but it would be a shame not to use the compensated ones even if the cross-members have to cut for 00 gauge. Our EM and P4 friends would not have this problem. Jonathan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rowsley17D Posted August 11, 2012 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 11, 2012 Been to parents' Diamond wedding celebrations so little time for modelling in the week but, I managed to get some done today while listening to GB getting more medals. The frames are about complete.Just the buffers and springs to attach.While superglue was going off on the the axle boxes, I made a start on the tank.It is going together like a dream. The tank is just plonked on top of the frames for the photo. Should be able to make a start on the loco frames next week. Jonathan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rowsley17D Posted August 14, 2012 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 14, 2012 Latest update. Have glued on the springs and apart from the buffers, the frames are finished. I managed solder on the tank side and back overlays. A job I never like doing as it tests my skills to the limit. I tinned all around the edges of the overlays and the bottom of the tank side, then pre-bent the side overlays to roughly the right shape, then sweated them on at the bottom edge only. Then using small bulldog clips I laminated the side and top edges. A clean up with the file and fibreglass brush (no matter how careful I am I always get one in my finger) and it doesn't look too bad. Sorry no time for pics, perhaps next time. Jonathan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rowsley17D Posted August 21, 2012 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 21, 2012 Well the tender building is just about complete. Just the coupling and lamp irons to add to the back. Not a good shot, don't know what went wrong with the flash, the tender is not brown! I may get round to getting a primer layer on so that I can see where it need more finishing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 Hello Jonathan, are you going to try the black acid etch primer on this the some of us use? You can see the results of it on the next to last page of Jazz's work bench thread on a J11 class loco in mess. #813.. It's also on mine but about 8 pages back. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rowsley17D Posted August 21, 2012 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 21, 2012 Hello Jonathan, are you going to try the black acid etch primer on this the some of us use? You can see the results of it on the next to last page of Jazz's work bench thread on a J11 class loco in mess. #813.. It's also on mine but about 8 pages back. OzzyO. Ozzy, I usually use auto rattle can grey or red oxide depending on final colour. No experience using acid etch primer, would you recommend it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 Ozzy, I usually use auto rattle can grey or red oxide depending on final colour. No experience using acid etch primer, would you recommend it? Hello Jonathan, all I use for primers now is acid etch types. If I can get them in the finished colour so much the better. Just put etch primer in to the search engine on Ebay and it should bring them up. Expect to pay about £7.00 or so + P&P. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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