Semaphore Signals - 4mm Scale (Mainly)

[Steve Hewitt]

And here it is......

Steve

[Vecchio]

Top - as usual. Love the movement of the counterweights. Looking forward to see your stuff at Warley.

Vecchio

[Steve Hewitt]

The next signal for Carlisle - Upperby & Goods Lines.......

 

This next signal is just a little further south than the previous one and comprises a Stop arm with a Calling On arm below it and a bracketed Running Line to Loop miniature arm to the left.

 

This is the design drawing I've prepared for it:

 

 

Based on a conventional LMS style round post signal, the bracket for the Loop signal will be the major complexity.

There are no 4mm scale etches commercially available for this type of bracket I believe so it has had to be scratch built.

 

There are very good drawings and photos in "Warburton", so at least I know what I'm aiming to produce  

 

I'll try to show it all in future posts...........

 

Steve.

[Steve Hewitt]

The bracket work....

 

For any signal with multiple dolls I always first prepare a jig to ensure I can support the dolls in their correct relationship during construction.

This is usually just made from an off-cut of MDF or plywood.

However in this case I will need the jig to assist me in making from scratch the parts for the bracket, as well as holding the dolls during assembly, so I've used a piece of Paxolin which is more heat resistant and less affected by flux:

 

 

The holes were accurately drilled in my Milling Machine to get the doll centres correct.

 

For making the sub-assemblies for the bracket, I used two short lengths of Silver Steel which I blackened with "Gun Blue" to resist the solder used during assembly:

 

 

The bracket consists of two sub-assemblies. The upper one a simple horizontal item with sides from 1mm x 1mm brass angle held apart by the fixings for the post and doll.

These fixings I turned from 2.5mm square brass bar, drilled through 2mm for the post and doll, and parted off at 1mm long:

 

 

This is how the top bracket was made:

 

The brass angles are over-long for ease of handling.

 

The lower bracket is  more complex, it being "S" shaped.

I soldered together two lengths of 1mm x 1mm brass angle and formed the bends by notching in the correct place with the piercing saw, and very gently bending to shape over the drawing.

The bends were then reinforced with 225deg C solder:

 

 

The two parts were separated and then assembled with two more of the turned fixings, using the silver steel pegs in the jig to get everything in the correct relationship:

 

 

It was then a straight forward assembly task, with over length doll and post, to get the main structure done.

Here I've also added the etched bracing and the two bearings for the short Rocking Shaft which is how the miniature arm will be controlled on the "loop Line" signal:

 

 

Because of the close proximity of the components and the speed that heat is transferred through the brass I used, I was concerned about the whole lot "un-soldering" itself as I added the final bits and pieces.

To minimise this risk, I used three different solders along the way.

• First a 5% Silver solder which melts at 225deg C for the sub-assemblies.
• Second an ordinary 60/40 solder which melts at 188deg C for the main assembly task.
• Finally a 145deg C solder for adding the last details.

 

Next will be the foundations....

 

Steve.

 

 

 

[Jon Fitness]

The bracket work....

 

For any signal with multiple dolls I always first prepare a jig to ensure I can support the dolls in their correct relationship during construction.

This is usually just made from an off-cut of MDF or plywood.

However in this case I will need the jig to assist me in making from scratch the parts for the bracket, as well as holding the dolls during assembly, so I've used a piece of Paxolin which is more heat resistant and less affected by flux:

 

RIMG0875.jpg

 

The holes were accurately drilled in my Milling Machine to get the doll centres correct.

 

For making the sub-assemblies for the bracket, I used two short lengths of Silver Steel which I blackened with "Gun Blue" to resist the solder used during assembly:

 

RIMG0876.jpg

 

The bracket consists of two sub-assemblies. The upper one a simple horizontal item with sides from 1mm x 1mm brass angle held apart by the fixings for the post and doll.

These fixings I turned from 2.5mm square brass bar, drilled through 2mm for the post and doll, and parted off at 1mm long:

 

RIMG0877.jpg

 

This is how the top bracket was made:

 

RIMG0880.jpg

The brass angles are over-long for ease of handling.

RIMG0879.jpg

 

The lower bracket is  more complex, it being "S" shaped.

I soldered together two lengths of 1mm x 1mm brass angle and formed the bends by notching in the correct place with the piercing saw, and very gently bending to shape over the drawing.

The bends were then reinforced with 225deg C solder:

 

RIMG0881.jpg

 

The two parts were separated and then assembled with two more of the turned fixings, using the silver steel pegs in the jig to get everything in the correct relationship:

 

RIMG0883.jpg

 

It was then a straight forward assembly task, with over length doll and post, to get the main structure done.

Here I've also added the etched bracing and the two bearings for the short Rocking Shaft which is how the miniature arm will be controlled on the "loop Line" signal:

 

RIMG0884.jpg

 

Because of the close proximity of the components and the speed that heat is transferred through the brass I used, I was concerned about the whole lot "un-soldering" itself as I added the final bits and pieces.

To minimise this risk, I used three different solders along the way.

• First a 5% Silver solder which melts at 225deg C for the sub-assemblies.
• Second an ordinary 60/40 solder which melts at 188deg C for the main assembly task.
• Finally a 145deg C solder for adding the last details.

 

Next will be the foundations....

 

Steve.

Lovely job Steve. This is another one where a well designed etch would save a lot of time and effort but as much as I scribble things down on paper, I haven't managed to come up with anything less complicated than scratch building! I'm thinking of a flat basic fold up one piece etch to which a flanged edge is added...

JF

[Steve Hewitt]

Lovely job Steve. This is another one where a well designed etch would save a lot of time and effort but as much as I scribble things down on paper, I haven't managed to come up with anything less complicated than scratch building! I'm thinking of a flat basic fold up one piece etch to which a flanged edge is added...

JF

Hi Jon,

 

This is the first "Loop Line" signal I've built, so its not a subject which I've had to think about very much.

The difficulty with any etch would be that "reverse curve", so a separate edge would probably be necessary as you suggest.

 

See you at Warley?

Steve.

[Jon Fitness]

Hi Jon,

 

This is the first "Loop Line" signal I've built, so its not a subject which I've had to think about very much.

The difficulty with any etch would be that "reverse curve", so a separate edge would probably be necessary as you suggest.

 

See you at Warley?

Steve.

I have copies of the LMS drawings of both left hand and right hand loop brackets if you need any further info. The RH one is a little wider than the LH!

 

Sadly I can't make Warley this year but I hope you have an excellent weekend!

 

JF

Edited November 11, 2016 by Jon Fitness

[Steve Hewitt]

I have copies of the LMS drawings of both left hand and right hand loop brackets if you need any further info. The RH one is a little wider than the LH!

 

Sadly I can't make Warley this year but I hope you have an excellent weekend!

 

JF

Thanks Jon, I'll collect a copy of the drawings off you at a show sometime, we usually manage to meet up once or twice a year.

 

Steve.

[Steve Hewitt]

Foundations.....

 

The foundations for my signals comprise four components:

• Something to hold the bottom of the main post securely, usually a turning from Brass Bar.
• The base plate which sets the ground level for the model and to which the other components are attached.
• Guide tubes for the operating wires, These are positioned to align with the Weight Bars so that the operating wires pull and push vertically with minimum risk of buckling.
• A Brass Tube to locate and retain the signal in the baseboard and to guarantee the servo motors retain accurate alignment with the operating wires during installation.

 

Here are the items for this signal.

 

First the turning:

 

 

The bottom of the main post slides into the turning. The flange will fit under the baseplate and the short tapered section represents the concrete foot of the signal which is planted in the ground on the prototype.

 

Here you can see both the baseplate and the tops of the guide tubes with the turned "foot" in place:

 

The guide tubes are 1/16th dia brass, into which will telescope the 1/32in dia tubes which I use to reinforce the lower end of the 0.4mm dia N/S operating wires. This gives a good bearing and again minimises buckling.

 

Finally for now here is the Foundation Tube soldered in place under the baseplate:

 

 

This is long enough to pass through the baseboard and the upper element of the servo mounting, which comes much later.

 

Next we start to put it together....

 

Steve.

 

 

[Jon Fitness]

Well, I now have an ancient ( and very small!) Emco Unimat lathe so I might have to try a turned base or 2!. I've got a few bits of brass bar I can mangle...

 

JF

[Steve Hewitt]

Hi Jon,

 

I bought most my Brass Bar from B&Q.

They sell it in 1metre lengths in 4mm 6mm and 8mm dia.

 

If you need anything larger, Eileen's stock short lengths

There are lots of good metal suppliers on the Internet in "Model Engineering" sites.

 

Steve.

[Vecchio]

Well, I now have an ancient ( and very small!) Emco Unimat lathe so I might have to try a turned base or 2!. I've got a few bits of brass bar I can mangle...

 

JF

 

An Unimat is a very good lathe (and made in Austria - as I am...) - and the fact it is small should be only an advantage with this kind of stuff. I have a 5" lathe and sometimes I wish I had a smaller one too...

Vecchio

[Steve Hewitt]

First a  few details...

 

I've placed the weight bars on both sides of the post:

 

This is the one for the main arm.

 

These two are for the miniature arms.

 

The ladder was prepared from an MSE etch, with 0.4mm N/S wire soldered down the stiles for strength and appearance:

 

To avoid any problems with heat affecting the cyano fixing, I've left the 3D printed "Lamp & Bearings" off until all the soldering is completed.

 

Here the main post assembly is located in its foundations:

 

And the ladder has been added:

The hole is where the fibre for the light for the Loop Arm will be routed.

 

The support for the timbers and stanchions of the lampman's platform were drilled and cut from 1mm x 0.5mm brass:

 

Eventually the Lamps & Arm Bearings were attached:

 

The holes for the fibres have also been made:

 

Careful clean and polish (doesn't my rubbish soldering show up in close-up photos) before a trip to the paintshop.......

 

Steve.

[Tony Teague]

Careful clean and polish (doesn't my rubbish soldering show up in close-up photos) before a trip to the paintshop.......

 

Your soldering looks pretty good to me!

Tony

[Steve Hewitt]

Final assembly.....

 

First task after the painting is to install the fibres for the lights:

 

 

The fibres are threaded carefully through the structure of the signal, internally wherever possible:

 

 

The one for the Loop Signal had to be tie-wrapped to the iron work for a distance,but its surprisingly "invisible" to the observer:

 

 

The result with the "Gas Light" LED running on a 9v PP3 battery:

 

 

The lower arm on the main post is a "Calling-On" signal, so it has to display a "C" when cleared.

I added a small piece of angle brass to the side of the lamp before painting, and added the letter by hand with a black lining pen.

 

The Calling-On arm has no glazing to the Danger lens. Instead it has a blanking plate fitted, with a 1.5 in (0.5mm) dia hole in line with the lamp lens.

I used red glazing, painted black on the rear, red to the front and drilled in the appropriate place.

 

The mechanical assembly is straight forward if a bit fiddly:

 

 

 

 

Installing the three servo motors followed my usual practice:

 

Off-cuts of plywood were cut and glued to produce this mounting :

 

The "Transport & Test" frame, which represent the signal's location on the layout, was prepared to accept the signal (Drilled vertically 5/8in dia).

The servo mount is located and secured in place, with a length of 5/8in dia brass tube to ensure all is aligned and vertical:

 

 

With the signal in place:

 

 

Links between the operating wires and the servo "horns" are prepared from 1/16th in. brass tube.

At this stage, these links are a sliding fit over the operating wires:

 

 

The GF Controllers are set to "Safe" position and connected to the servos.

This locks the servos in mid-position. If necessary the Horns are adjusted on their splines to a good "mid" position.

The signal arms are now adjusted to "Mid-throw" i.e. neither fully Clear or Danger:

 

 

With everything in "Safe or Mid Position", the links are soldered to the operating wires:

 

 

Put the GF Controllers out of "Safe" mode and adjust each arm in turn.

All at Danger:

 

 

Each arm adjusted in turn:

 

 

 

 

The final addition to this model was the stained hard wood for the lampman's platform:
 

 

Last task will be the little video...............

 

Steve.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Joe MCMLXI]

superb work Steve, a beautifully executed signal - 5*****

 

joe

[Steve Hewitt]

And here's the little video.......

 

 

Steve.

 

 p.s.  I'll have this signal (and several others) with me at the Warley show.

Why not come along and have a chat on Stand A56.

[Steve Hewitt]

Home again ......

 

Thanks very much to all the RMwebbers who came to see my signals at the Warley show.

Its always a great pleasure to meet you, and put a face to a "name".

I hope Rob and I were able to answer your questions and even to entertain you.

 

We were busy almost all the time, and found that the questions we were asked were generally more informed than in previous years.

 

Back to the workshop now, and looking forward to meeting many of you again at a future event.

 

Steve.

[Budgie]

I've got a question: do you put backlight blinders on all of your signals, and if so, why?

[Steve Hewitt]

I've got a question: do you put backlight blinders on all of your signals, and if so, why?

Hi Budgie,

 

The answer is "Usually" but not always.

If I know one isn't required, then I would leave it off, replacing it with a simple collar to retain the arm/shaft assembly in the bearing.

Most photos of prototype semaphore signals show a blinder.

 

(It is also easier to snip off the blinder to leave just the retaining collar, than to add a blinder at a later date)

 

Steve.

[Steve Hewitt]

Thanks Jon, I'll collect a copy of the drawings off you at a show sometime, we usually manage to meet up once or twice a year.

 

Steve.

Hi Jon,

 

Are you going to the Manchester show this weekend?

I intend to go on Saturday.

 

Steve.

[Jon Fitness]

Hi Jon,

 

Are you going to the Manchester show this weekend?

I intend to go on Saturday.

 

Steve.

Yep. I'll see you there!

JF

[Steve Hewitt]

More signals for Carlisle Upperby.....

 

The next couple of signals are almost identical.

They are Upper Quadrant LMS style Stop & Distant  on round posts.

The only difference being one will have a Fixed Distant arm.

 

Those who chatted with me at Warley may have seen the first one on my display - as work in progress.

 

They are both now complete as far as the static assembly is concerned.

 

Before they go to the paintshop and final assembly, I'll get the next signal to a similar condition.

That will make painting as a batch more time efficient than doing each one individually.

 

The next signal is a Four Doll Balanced Bracket for which this is the scematic drawing:

 

 

Top Left you can see the best photo of the original which I have to hand.

 

Details of the build to follow....

Steve.

[Jon Fitness]

Looks a nice structure, Is it an all tubular one?

JF

[Dave Holt]

Hi Steve.

I saw you at Warley, but you looked far too busy/popular to speak to!

It may be an illusion, but in the bracket signal photo, it looks as if the LH bracket joins the main post slightly higher up than the RH bracket. Perhaps because the taller doll results in a greater weight on the right?

Regards,

Dave.