RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted February 22, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 22, 2017 Close up showing the handrail stanchions ete, these are screwed to the decking boards, and do not pass through the "Z Irons". 36 P&A BRACKET 6 - Copy.jpg Hi Mick, A necessary compromise on my 4mm scale models. Strength is the main reason. Thanks for the details, which are really useful. Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted February 22, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 22, 2017 No more signalling posts for a few days. I'm off to Glasgow with Liverpool Lime Street tomorrow. If you get there, do call round and make yourself known... Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micknich2003 Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Close up showing the handrail stanchions ete, these are screwed to the decking boards, and do not pass through the "Z Irons". 36 P&A BRACKET 6 - Copy.jpg 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judge Dread Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Who left the spanner here? 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micknich2003 Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Who left the spanner here? spanner.jpg P Way, fishplate spanner, and also used as a Keying Hammer. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted February 28, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 28, 2017 .....Clipped..... Baseplate and foundations next..... Steve. Following my usual methods, the base of the signal is mounted on a N/S plate: The base of the post is located by this turning, the flange being a close fit in the base of the post. The turning is drilled to allow the fibres for the lighting through: Guide tubes for the operating wires will be braced to the turning: The whole is hidden inside the 1/2 in Brass Foundation Tube, which locates the signal on the baseboard and ensures alignment with the servos, when they are installed: More soon........... Steve. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted March 1, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 1, 2017 Assembly continues..... The basic structure is located on the baseplate and soldered securely: Checked for vertical: In both directions: Dolls, stanchions, handrails, crank bearings added: The 3D printed Arm Bearing and Lamp are seen more clearly than usual with my photos: Ready for Grit Blasting, Ultra Sonic wash and degrease in cellulose thinners before a trip to the paint shop: I'll get the other "Upside down" bracket signal to the same state before painting. Steve. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 I do like those P&A signals Steve. They are a very distinctive design and very satisfying to construct. They look spot on! JF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micknich2003 Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 Steve, another close up detail, I ment to post it last week, but events over took me. Hand rail stancion and decking boards. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted March 2, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 2, 2017 Thanks Mick, I use real wood for the decking, but its strength isn't up to supporting the handrails. That is why I fix the stanchions directly to the "Z" beams, which in my case are rectangular in section. Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted March 3, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 3, 2017 Another weekend away..... Just spent the last two hours packing for a weekend of demonstrating at the Preston show. I'm standing in for John Holden who can't make it this weekend. I'll be there with Les Green - of Lime Street roof and Hotel fame. Do drop by for a chat......... Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted March 6, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 6, 2017 Back to Carlisle's Newcastle Line signals: The "upside down" bracket carries only one doll, with the arms mounted extremely low. The length of the bracket is required to reach over the opposing line. The Distant arm seems to sit on the staging, and is believed to be "Fixed". The main post is another "Plate & Angle" from a Gibson etch: The trimmers are mounted lower down on this post than normal, and the bracket work is now fixed above. To ensure running clearance below the trimmers, I've had to extend the base of the Post. I made up a square section of brass from butchered Brass rectangular tube: This is the Baseplate for the signal: To locate the square extension, provide a guide for the lighting fibres and a firm base on which the main post will stand, I turned up this little item from Brass Bar: This is soldered into the baseplate: This turning also anchors the bottom of the guide tube: With the extension tube in place: This the result, with the P&A post sitting in the extension: More soon..... Steve. 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 Excellent bit of engineering as usual Steve. Just wish those Gibson etches were available in 7mm.....! JF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted March 8, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 8, 2017 Final "static" bits added....... Staging, stanchions, ladders added: I actually added the handrails, but I don't have a photo! The doll is being left off until after painting, which after a good clean, grit blast and cellulose bath is next. Steve. 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted March 10, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 10, 2017 Back from the Paintshop....... The separate doll has been fitted: Next I'll fit the fibres for the lighting.... Steve. 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted March 13, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 13, 2017 The fibres.... The LED - a "Gaslight" from Helmsman Electronics - is powered by a 9v PP3 battery for this test. Because the doll is so short, the fibre is tie-wrapped to it rather than being routed internally. It is tied to the structure. Until it passes down the main post and through the foundations to the LED Below. Next it will be time to add the moving parts..... Steve. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted March 16, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 16, 2017 The Moving Parts.......... Several posts back there was much discussion about how the splitting distants would be slotted, and Mick kindly posted an excellent shot of an ER slotting arrangement. This is how I've interpreted it in 4mm scale: The two sets of weight bars. These are made from a new etch which Les Green has produced for me. Each bar has "fold up" weights and bearings which align exactly with the main etch. "Dimples" are provided for a range of attachment positions for the operating wires at a 0.5mm spacing. Drilling out the appropriate ones at 0.4mm allows the operating wires to be routed very close to each other with more confidence than has previously been the case. Here you can see the two weight bars for the Stop arm coupled together. Behind them, the weight bar and drop-off weight for the left hand Distant have been connected. Looking carefully you might now make out the connections for the right hand Distant. These are to the lower set of weight bars and drop-off slot. Another view. I'll go and lie down in a darkened room for an hour before dealing with the rest of bits.... Steve. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted March 17, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 17, 2017 Coupling up....... The arms on the left hand doll are connected directly to their weight bars, whilst the Distant on the right hand doll is worked by cranks: After painting the cranks etc, the stained wooden planks have been added to the staging and the LED energised: Putting the servos through their paces: Similarly with the "upside down" bracket: Ready for packing: Steve. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 (edited) Stunning stuff as usual Steve. You always seem to keep the linkages nice and tight with no free play as evidenced by the bounce in your Youtube vid! I like those slot bars too; very convincing action. Cheers JF Edited March 17, 2017 by Jon Fitness Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted March 17, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 17, 2017 Thanks Jon, I always try to make sure the bearings are substantial on cranks, weight bars etc. as any wobble is just lost motion. The wires are usually 0.4mm N/S, and I use holes drilled 0.4mm, then just tickled with a broach to make assembly easy. Steve. p.s. video to be posted on here shortly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted March 18, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 18, 2017 Here's the video.... Steve. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJBarrett Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 Hi Steve, May I first start with a thank you for the photos and words on how you have achieved an excellent standard on the signals you have produced. You have inspired me into having a go. My first attempt was the following simple LNER Upper Quadrant, made from a MSE kit, for my 4mm layout Raineford. Having produced this I have now started on a couple of more complex signals. This is how far I have got, but I would like your views on a couple of questions: - Fitting of the cranks. o Have I got the approach right on how they should be connected? o The trimmer and the cranks are both 3mm in size. So I am struggling to see the best way of how to attached / fit the cranks Thanks Frank 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted March 19, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 19, 2017 Hi Frank, Those look very nice - well done. I'm no authority on LNER signals (or any other for that matter). If what I say is incorrect I'm sure Mick Nicholson will correct me - please. I think you've got the general arrangement of the cranks correct. I would expect the cranks in line with the main post would share a pivot or bearing. In the second arrangement, the cranks would be similar, with the pull wires for the centre two arms going direct from weight bar to arm. Here is a short clip of a LNWR signal I made a few years ago. Although Lower Quad, and therefore using push rods rather than pull wires, the arrangement in very similar. Pull cranks were usually longer radius than push cranks I believe. About 9 to 12 inches against about 6 inches, but you should be able to squeeze them in, particularly if you hang the pivot tube below the Trimmer if necessary. Hope this is helpful. Don't hesitate to ask again if you think I can be of any more help. Steve. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted March 22, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 22, 2017 Staying in Cumbria.............but a little south of Carlisle The subject for my next project is Keswick on the Penrith to Cockermouth line. I'll be building the signals for the East box first - Keswick No 1 Box. The first signal is a hangover from LNWR days, being a bi-directional lower quadrant example: Starting with the basics: The baseplate. Post Mounting Tube. Assembled with the Guide Tubes added. And the Foundation Tube. The Main Post is a 3D print by Shapeways from a Les Green drawing. Lamps are MSE, all the other bits are scratched from Brass. MSE etches for the weight bars and Bearings. Ladder is a Masokits etch, with top fixing from a Les Green etch. Almost ready for the Paintshop. More soon..... Steve. 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted March 23, 2017 Share Posted March 23, 2017 Hi Steve, May I first start with a thank you for the photos and words on how you have achieved an excellent standard on the signals you have produced. You have inspired me into having a go. My first attempt was the following simple LNER Upper Quadrant, made from a MSE kit, for my 4mm layout Raineford. Having produced this I have now started on a couple of more complex signals. This is how far I have got, but I would like your views on a couple of questions: - Fitting of the cranks. o Have I got the approach right on how they should be connected? o The trimmer and the cranks are both 3mm in size. So I am struggling to see the best way of how to attached / fit the cranks Thanks Frank Hi Frank, a lot of LNER signals have the cranks mounted above the trimmers on small brackets (no pics as I'm only on phone at the moment) which means the trimmers aren't affected. HTH Jon Fitness Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now