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Two new models, plus the YE Janus and an Ivatt 2MT


Alex Duckworth

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Hello Alex.

 

This is brilliant! The 15xx engines are number two on my list of favorite engines so to see someone is building one in 2mm Scale is superb! I have a ex-Farish body in my 'to do' box that looks exactly like yours in the photos so I am very interested to see how you tackle this one. My plan was to either use a modified 9F etch from Bob Jones or to etch up some valve gear myself to suit the engine but I havent built up the courage to attempt it yet!

 

Im also intrigued with the ball races you have in the photo too. Where are you planning on using them? I tried them out on on of my many 42xx chassis but found them difficult to get right because I couldnt get enough side play in the wheel axles for them to work well enough.

 

Anyway, I will follow this VERY keenly, please update this as you progress through the build. If your previous build is anything to go by it will be a stunner!

 

Missy :)

 

P.S. The signalbox isnt half bad either...

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Guest bri.s

awesome signalbox you planning on a model of oxspring junction?p.s how did you do the vertical boarding

cheers bri.s

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Thank you all for your likes and kind comments. To answer a few queries, firstly the signal box. The box is scratchbuilt except for Modelex etched window frames, Ratio interior items and gutters, Noch slate roofing and Plastruct steps. The basic construction is two transparent acrylic (0.5mm) boxes planked with Plastruct and Microstrip in varying sizes and thicknesses. Then the openings are sawn out with a piercing saw and areas to be left transparent are masked off, box was then sprayed and detailed. The vertical boarding is individually planked with plastruct then when dry scored between planks with a scalpel blade dragged sideways. Very thin plastic strip is then solvent welded between the planks and sanded down. I'm planning to model the stretch between the box at Oxspring (just after the junction) and the Oxspring Tunnels, which includes the road bridge and viaduct.

 

The parts for 1501.

The cab and tanks are the Farish 94 with the cab and boiler/firebox machlned out, tanks shortened and deepened, and the bunker burred out. The smokebox/boiler/firebox is from a Peco Collett, and the cylinders from a Manor ( or something GWRy).

Frames are cut from 0.5 PCB, wheels from the 2mm Association and the rods are the Association's generic Farish replacements, cut to fit on the jig in the photo (the lump of wood marked F). These rods can be seen in the last photo finished and being used in conjunction with three axle jigs to set the bearings in the frames. The ball bearings will be used to support a layshaft in the drive assembly, first stage is belt drive, second is Association worm and spur. The motor, if all goes to plan, will be the Nigel Lawton 10 x 12.

 

 

 

Alex.

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Wonderful modelling. Like that from several others an inspiration to the rest of us.

 

A little bit of info on the 10x12 that might be of use to you. I have tried one in a diesel test chassis I built for motor comparison and found that it produced truly unacceptable armature noise (scream - commutation) at anything past 50% rpm/half speed (roughly 15,000rpm), which first started to appear at about 40% rpm. This is mentioned on a page somewhere on Nigel Lawtons site but I can't seem to locate it at present. As a result I found the 8x16 far better since it has a rare earth magnet and produces more power at lower rpm (16,000rpm max) without this side effect. These tests used the belt drive system @ 3-1 reduction plus 14-1 worm reduction in the bogies, (using a layshaft to drive both bogies).

 

I then tried the new association double ended can motor and found it produced better slow speed performance than either using just the 14-1 reduction and with no difference in noise levels.

 

Izzy

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Many thanks Alan & Izzy. I should say at this point that if it hadn't been for Alan finding me a decent photo of Oxspring box I wouldn't have been able to make it at all. Thanks also to Izzy for the motor info, I had no idea about the 10 x 12 noise problem. I'll try to shoehorn an Association motor in, otherwise I have a spare 8 x 16 so I'll use that .

 

Alex.

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HI Alex,

 

only just seen this (to much time doing proper work!!) Cracking work again, not sure what else to say as im still trying to pick my jaw up off the floor from the signal box :swoon:

 

Look forward to the rest of the build.

 

cheers

Simon

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Thank you Simon and bri.s.

 

I've done a little more on the pannier, the rods and wheels are now sorted so I've piled the larger pieces together to see if there's a 1501 lurking in there anywhere. Nothing is yet fixed and the cylinders are far too high, I think that it shows promise though.

 

post-3457-0-66177300-1345131028.jpg

 

 

Alex.

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Just out of question, where did you source the Collett boiler from?

 

I'm sure Alex will correct me if I'm wrong but I'm reasonably sure that he got in on the group buy of bodies from Peco that a 2mmSA member organised rather than butchering £100+ of engine just for the boiler.

 

There aren't many GWR engines that use this boiler though.

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I'm sure Alex will correct me if I'm wrong but I'm reasonably sure that he got in on the group buy of bodies from Peco that a 2mmSA member organised rather than butchering £100+ of engine just for the boiler.

 

Absolutely correct Rich, it is a firebox/boiler/smokebox unit from a Peco Collett and it did come from the group buy, the last call for which came just as I'd bought a second hand 94xx body and was giving it a speculative strokey beard moment. It seems to fit quite well, but I must remember to shorten the smokebox.

 

Alex.

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Alex,

 

If I may paraphrase Sir Humphrey, "a 15xx, a most courageous decision" but one that is coming together quite triumphantly. How many of these do you see in larger scales; well, not many actually. And now for the big question, what are your thoughts about that feature most alien to Great Western engines, the outside Walschaerts valve gear?

Really enjoying your work.

 

David

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David, thank you. I'm not too worried about the Walschaerts as the parts are only slightly smaller than the set that I made for my last NG build and they work OK. Using lace pins and solder stopping washers made from oil soaked Rizla papers plus selective chemical blackening quite small pivots can be made to work - but I won't tempt fate further until I manage a set that does work. I spent some time on the chassis today and it is now quartered and nicely free running - gear train next.

 

Alex.

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  • 4 weeks later...
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A couple of photos to show recent progress, not too much I'm afraid as I've been caught up in research for other projects. First, the drive unit. (upside down).

 

post-3457-0-71761400-1347714938_thumb.jpg

 

Next, the drive unit fixed into position.

 

post-3457-0-91405000-1347715040_thumb.jpg

 

Finally the motor, stay - alive, cylinder and crosshead in their approximate positions

 

post-3457-0-73420800-1347715189_thumb.jpg

 

There will now, as they say, be a short break before the next post. I'm off on hols for a few days - Hasta la Vista!

 

Alex

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Can I ask how you've attached the stretcher pieces to the ball bearings either end of the worm? Are they solderable?

 

Hello Richard,

the two ball races are held in a length of brass U section and are a pretty tight fit. I crimped the tops of the U in over the steel races and ran Loctite into the gaps all of which jams them into place quite securely. I suppose that I could have soldered them in but the risks of melting the plastic worm and of getting Brown Label flux too close to the tiny steel bearings didn't seem worthwhile.

 

Unfortunately I've been a bit sidetracked over the past couple of weeks but hope to resume work on the pannier soon.

 

Alex.

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