JonathanB Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 I have a picture frame that we picked up from Ikea (this one), hoping to turn to a vertical orientation, but on removing the back, we found that the picture sheet was glued to the back so we couldn't re-orientate. We've since obtained some other art work to put in the space, so we have the frame spare! It has opaque "glass" (perspex) with three 16cm square clear sections and is about 2cm deep inside when the back is attached: Having found the picture frame layout SprocketBahN on the web, I was wondering about a single track of N-gauge running along the bottom of the "viewports" with a different scene in each. A small steam loco and some sort of single wagon (which I have) would probably fit in each scene and could be driven back and forth through each scene. I think perhaps the depth may be an issue, but it might be possible to make it a bit deeper somehow. Any ideas? Probably better to be country, picturesque type scenes rather than industrial (or I'll never be allowed to hang it on the wall!) Maybe if it's simple I might get somewhere with it compared to my other N-project which hasn't got anywhere in the last year! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isambard Kingdom Brunel Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 That sounds like a really good idea, and i think if you did very low relief you could get away with an industrial scape as well as a country section, I think it would look good on a viaduct with business in the arches Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Mikkel Posted September 14, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 14, 2012 That's an interesting idea. I'm thinking a realistic photo backscene would help add a lot to the otherwise very narrow space. I like IKB's idea of the arches. Maybe the three windows could show different sections of an urban scene? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium southern42 Posted September 14, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 14, 2012 I like your idea. The image below shows what it might be like if you curve your picture around the back of the frame. Just an idea to give you something to consider. It was kinda fun to do, anyway. Hope you come up with something you can display on your wall with pride. Done in Paint Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonathanB Posted September 15, 2012 Author Share Posted September 15, 2012 Yes, I had a similar idea, but with three different scenes - I think I can get some planed softwood from wickes to pad the depth out to around 4cm which would be better than 2cm. Still not keen on the industrial ideas - keeping it rural and countrysideish (or seaside) is going to go down better with the other half! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium southern42 Posted September 15, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 15, 2012 If you want a curved backscene you could use bendy mdf from B&Q. I've seen this used to good effect on a few exhibition layouts. You may know of this already but thought I'd mention it in case someone else might like to know. EDIT If you want some modelling inspiration, there are some superb dioramas (depicting the LNWR) by Jack Nelson at the Conwy Valley Railway Museum, http://www.conwyrailwaymuseum.co.uk/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonathanB Posted September 15, 2012 Author Share Posted September 15, 2012 I'm thinking 3 slightly curved backscenes of basically blue sky printed out on card, the first some sort of beachy/pier/seafront scene, the second with trees and the third hills and a tunnel. Need to try and work on my limited artistic skills to sketch up something approaching that I think! LED lighting could light each scene too - now I'm getting way too technical! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonathanB Posted September 16, 2012 Author Share Posted September 16, 2012 Here is the kind of thing I'm thinking of (not happy with the left most panel idea at the moment though). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium southern42 Posted September 16, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 16, 2012 Suggestion Keep your stone wall going across and have some beach huts in front or deck chairs standing on sand instead of the grass. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonathanB Posted September 16, 2012 Author Share Posted September 16, 2012 Oooh, good idea - could do some cliffs behind then... Update: Much better! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium southern42 Posted September 16, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 16, 2012 Don't forget the seagulls (No flying smiley, sorry) PS. Your scenic trio are well balanced, now. Looking good. Great work. Look forward to seeing it come to fruition. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted September 16, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 16, 2012 Or do the same scene in three different seasons. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonathanB Posted September 16, 2012 Author Share Posted September 16, 2012 I like the seasons idea - but would be better with 4 views! Here's a sketch-up of a plan view... I think it should work in low-relief without too much space, unless I can work out how to sensibly pad the depth out a bit more... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonathanB Posted September 16, 2012 Author Share Posted September 16, 2012 Thoughts have turned to power and operation - googling around it seems some awfully complex shuttle circuits exist, but I was wondering if it could be done simply, if a bit crudely, with a circuit along the lines below. Using a 2A Miniature DPDT Latching Relay from Maplin which is rated for 12V, along with a couple of reed switches at each end to activate the relay. I don't really know much about electronics at all, so there is probably some glaring error in this - can I just use a 12V DC supply with a variable resistor to set the speed for example? (One minor error is putting the reed switches on the - side instead of the + side of the relay). Other half has given the thumbs up! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonathanB Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 Ignoring my moment of electrical insanity, I've cracked on and made the frame deeper with 2 widths of strip wood from Wickes, screwed and glued together. These slot in around the edge of the frame with a reasonably snug fit, although I plan to fix them to the frame itself later. (Excuse the crappy pictures from my phone - it obviously couldn't work out the colour temperature!) Another strip of 22mm x 6mm has also been covered in foam and then a single length of flexi track glued down on top - the idea being to decide on the height of the track in the frame and then fix some blocks either end for it to rest on. Not sure yet if it'll need some central support - will see how it goes! I've also cut a piece of white mount board to size to fit just behind the glass to block the fuzzy view through the semi-transparent surrounds. The trick will be cutting the squares out in the right position to view the three scenes! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonathanB Posted September 19, 2012 Author Share Posted September 19, 2012 Here is the basic track section temporarily placed in-situ with the assistance of some masking tape... Just need to decide the exact height of the rail above the bottom of the scenes - probably won't be too much and most likely based on the height of the sea wall in my left hand scene design. The depth available works out as 1cm each side of the batten the rail sits on, so things are quite tight to fit the scenics in! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonathanB Posted September 22, 2012 Author Share Posted September 22, 2012 Started the ballasting yesterday, but not sure how to do the edges of the narrow strip! I might try sticking some gaffer/duck tape allong the sides to stop the ballast falling everywhere until it's dried - any other suggestions? And here is a mockup of the sea wall and beach section to try for size - the wall is mocked up as 2cm high, which works out at roughly 3 scale metres high - I think it looks about right! The beach will be covered in some real sand glued down and the wall in a brick paper I think. (The glass needs a good clean!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Sheep Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 masking tape along the edges, whip it off once you've put the ballast on but the glue still to set? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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