TStageman Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 All, This may seem like a silly question, but I am a bit of an amateur modeller and never used this stuff until now. I bought some Milliput white from a shop online and it promptly arrived. I had never used it before so was slightly apprehensive and followed the instructions for use as best I could. Yet when actually applying it to part of one of my model coaches to fill in a window, (with the plasticard already blanking it from behind) it didn't seem to really take to the plastic very well. I had previously buffed the plastic to be filled with a file so it would be rough and take slightly better. I had kept my hands moist as the instructions advised aswell but this stuff just would not stick. When it finally did, I had to leave so much excess on top that it needed lots of filing and sanding afterwards. However when filing down with a metal file, all it did was 'block' up the metal file and didn't leave a very good finish. I wanted a really smooth surface but it didn't take very well at all. It said in the instructions that if you smoothed it with a wet finger before drying it would smooth off the surface and when I tried this on another piece, all it did was soak it and it subsequently took ages to dry and didn't leave a smooth finish. What is it that I'm doing wrong, is there some kind of trade secret with this stuff? Many thanks Tom Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodyfox Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 Tom, Sounds like you followed the instructions well. You can microwave the milliput for a few seconds. This will soften it quite a bit and will make it harden very quickly soon after too. So initially it is easier to work into the gap but also the sanding can begin quicker too. Milliput is amazing stuff, I have used it, quite safely to stick rock and live coral together underwater - and it still goes off without any toxic effect! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackRat Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 I dont bother with the 'moist' hands. You just end up with slimy hands etc. The file shouldnt clog to much either. It may be its still a bit damp, possibly due to to much moisture....... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 One potential problem is that you did not achieve the proper fully mixed state before applying it. That will result in poor adhesion, long curing time, poor finish when cut. I use the terracotta which usefully has two distinctly different colour components: there is never any doubt when a fully mixed state has been achieved. It's pretty hard work getting there. Once you know what it takes to achieve a full mix, then you can apply that amount of time and effort to the white. And don't do it in bare hands, moist or not, a pair of PVC gloves makes the mix process far more pleasant Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 I wouldn't use a metal file. Use graded wet and dry papers. Bits can be stuck to "tools" like lollipop sticks, or even as small as match sticks to keep the paper flat. The finish will always be no better than the the surface of the sanding medium used. For a really polished finish you need to use things like jewelers polishes. Though it depends on how close you will be examining the finish. Paint will cover most fine scratches. Patience is required to let it really go "off" and set, and as always several thin layers work better than one thick layer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Sheep Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 personally I wouldn't use milliput (sorry) as I don't see it as being a filler, more as a modeling putty out of which I can produce bespoke parts to detail something such as an ornate chimney pot for a large station building etc. I am aware that it is usable as a filler, but I would have probably chosen something such as squadron green putty Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 I don't see it as being a filler, more as a modeling putty...squadron green putty Not knocking it - or the valid opinion - but there is a slight contradiction here. I guess to some extent it depends on the size of the gap being filled. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
laurenceb Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 If you have never used Milliput before it is better to start with 1 of the 2 coloured types. This will give a better idea of how well it has blended and by the time you have sanded it down they are all about as smooth as each other anyway Laurence Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alfsboy Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Its great stuff if a little patchy quality wise but always works .I make my living from it making masters .The white is ultra fine and messy.I avoid and use the green grey .Moist a finger is the method I use ,not wet it . A bit of heat works wonders on curing .Like all materials experience is gained by failure .One problem can be that the Miliput can be harder than the material its filling hence green putty use. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted October 9, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 9, 2012 I've not had much experience of Milliput until last night, and until then, it wasn't a generally happy experience either. Fortunately, the fine/white mix I used last night seems to be curing well, having mixed it as best I could according to the instructions. It is to be smoothed, blended in with the adjacent Tetrion filler and will then have cobbles scribed on it, so I do want it to be pretty hard. In terms of mixing it, one thing I thought of after having mixed last night's batch, was to cut very thin slivers from each stick, and then lay one over each other, alternating the two types, and then use that as a basis for a thorough mix, because you've effectively already done some mixing before your fingers start the kneading. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 I like the "Squadron" White now - no mixing! Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Squadron green every time for me. it will key itself to plastic and easy to sand smooth. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TStageman Posted October 10, 2012 Author Share Posted October 10, 2012 Thanks for all the replies guys, much appreciated. I had another crack with this stuff last night making even more sure that I mixed it 100% in my hands for a bit longer and sure enough it cured a bit better this time. I also put it under my table lamp for a little while to heat it up and its really hardened off much quicker than before, also ensuring that I used less moisture on my hands aswell. And, when it had hardened and dried, I had a bash at sanding some of it down (I was filling some Hornby Mk2f single seats to have 2 + 1 seating in some of my 009 coaches) so they were needing to be quite neat as they will be in full view in front of the windows. So I am somewhat more optimistic now that I've tried this, however I have also purchased some Squadron Green putty to have a bash with aswell. Regards Tom Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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