sugar palm Posted March 11, 2010 Author Share Posted March 11, 2010 I might use the well tried insulating tape method of banding rather than the metal type. 36E i did in the kit designers way .as i understand that its not normal pvc tape you use or it shrinks and can come off with age but cannot remember what the name is of this special tape is. But am sure some one will give us the answer but we will see how it lines out . thanks for your note as i am aware of this alternative but its good to exchange views on here ( constructive ones) keep them coming we dont bite and all hoping to pick up useful tips michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sugar palm Posted March 13, 2010 Author Share Posted March 13, 2010 Heres a view of the footplate chassis and tender minus boiler which is ready for fitting brake gear is still to fit but it is now a basic runner for test purposes . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sugar palm Posted March 13, 2010 Author Share Posted March 13, 2010 Heres the next view of the boiler fitted to the footplate the camera makes it look crap but is not as bad in the real OO world ? By the way I have realigned the chimney and top electric light fitting since the photo so all now is square to the eye michael doing our best. Its proped up on a piece of wood Dont forget to punch out the rivet detail on the bufferbeam and frames before assembling them out its an ultra cock up ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted March 15, 2010 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 15, 2010 [quote name='sugar palm' date='13 March 2010 - 20:26 ' timestamp='1268511960' post='101497'] Heres the next view of the boiler fitted to the footplate the camera makes it look crap but is not as bad in the real OO world ? By the way I have realigned the chimney and top electric light fitting since the photo so all now is square to the eye Its proped up on a piece of wood Dont forget to punch out the rivet detail on the bufferbeam and frames before assembling them out its an ultra cock up ! michael doing our best. Looking good bud. Mine's still in the box! Thanks for reminder tip about buffer plate rivet bashing. 36E Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sugar palm Posted March 15, 2010 Author Share Posted March 15, 2010 [quote name='sugar palm' date='13 March 2010 - 20:26 ' timestamp='1268511960' post='101497'] Heres the next view of the boiler fitted to the footplate the camera makes it look crap but is not as bad in the real OO world ? By the way I have realigned the chimney and top electric light fitting since the photo so all now is square to the eye Its proped up on a piece of wood Dont forget to punch out the rivet detail on the bufferbeam and frames before assembling them out its an ultra cock up ! michael doing our best. Looking good bud. Mine's still in the box! Thanks for reminder tip about buffer plate rivet bashing. 36E Another tip you are building this the rivet knocking out is a must. Also the nickel silver slidebar for the cylinders is part of the etch that folds into one piece I found out to my cost after talking to the DMR desinger at doncaster . I spent all one night filing down a piece of n gauge rail to make it ?!!!! have fun all. more to come soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sugar palm Posted March 26, 2010 Author Share Posted March 26, 2010 On to the making up of the smokebox door which has a step a door handle and a handrail and lamp iron to fit pretty staight forward and again 601 loctite was used to fit handrail wire ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sugar palm Posted March 26, 2010 Author Share Posted March 26, 2010 Heres the view into the loco cab from the rear you cannot tell that the backhead is extended into the cab about 6mm further than it should be as ive cheated so as to fit a flywheel in the firebox end of the boiler onto the branchlines motor gearbox assemble (modellers licence) you cannot tell looking into the cab as it runs by unless you a rivet counter with X ray vision CAN YOU ? By the way the cab side doors are not in the kit just a bit of scrap brass offcut made up to suit . The fallplate hinges up and down as it sits on the tender between the gap so as not to derail the loco. I like this idea Mr DMR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sugar palm Posted March 26, 2010 Author Share Posted March 26, 2010 Heres a look at the underneath of the chassis so you can see the pick ups motor brake gear etc i always now make the PCB pick up boards unbolt from the chassis for maintainance or replacement . Theses are bolted thro onto a nut soldered onto the chassis spacers This seems a better idea to me than glue or aralditing the PCB to the chassis bottom spacers for maintenance the cylinders on this kit seem a bit far apart fot OO and could do to be a bit closer together as I think they are realy for EM as the seem about 2 mm further apart than they need to be this means the piston rod seems at a slight angle from crank pin to cylinder in OO ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 30, 2010 Share Posted March 30, 2010 the cylinders on this kit seem a bit far apart fot OO and could do to be a bit closer together as I think they are realy for EM as the seem about 2 mm further apart than they need to be this means the piston rod seems at a slight angle from crank pin to cylinder in OO ?? Just maybe that the cylinders are correct and that the track may be wrong???????? 4'1 1/2" approx 16.5mm or 4'8 1/2" approx 18.83mm. LOL OzzyO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sugar palm Posted March 31, 2010 Author Share Posted March 31, 2010 the cylinders on this kit seem a bit far apart fot OO and could do to be a bit closer together as I think they are realy for EM as the seem about 2 mm further apart than they need to be this means the piston rod seems at a slight angle from crank pin to cylinder in OO ?? Just maybe that the cylinders are correct and that the track may be wrong???????? 4'1 1/2" approx 16.5mm or 4'8 1/2" approx 18.83mm. LOL OzzyO thanks for that OzzyO you must be a EM man would love to have the time to build everything in em but sadly not so i am OO and always will be and can cope with the 16.5 track even if it may be a bit narrow . but i do like the thought of 18.2 but time will never allow ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 thanks for that OzzyO you must be a EM man would love to have the time to build everything in em but sadly not so i am OO and always will be and can cope with the 16.5 track even if it may be a bit narrow . but i do like the thought of 18.2 but time will never allow ! I just went a bit wider than that. ATB OzzyO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 ....I just went a bit wider than that. Aha, but is your back-to-back 17.87mm? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 In a word no. ATB OzzyO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sugar palm Posted April 2, 2010 Author Share Posted April 2, 2010 In a word no. ATB OzzyO the gauge that you build in is not significant that point is that i think the cylinders could be shortened if you build in OO not been a bore just pointing this out to anyone whos trying to build one for the first time like me to point out a few things ive found on the journey ?any one building in brass knows how this can help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sugar palm Posted April 4, 2010 Author Share Posted April 4, 2010 So on we go as its been york show today which i visited as a punter. It gave me the push to upload the next installment of photos in the construction stage as where nearly read to strip down and paint so here they are hope you like the results so far ???? (comments awaited boys and girls ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sugar palm Posted April 4, 2010 Author Share Posted April 4, 2010 And on to the next testing stage to the rugby test centre for steam . yes things now starting to get serious as you can see valvegear assembled with brass dress making pins and solder. with rizzlas used for spacers and stoping the solder flowing to where we dont want it . electric lamp fittings and irons fitted to front and tender with only one lamp iron in centre as on the K1s although theres two electric light fittings in the centre of bufferbeam You can see on the gauge master controller the current comsumpition as see runs in and detect any tight spots or elctrical probles (s/c etc) ? There she blows and starts to steam test Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted April 4, 2010 Share Posted April 4, 2010 Looks very nice, well done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted April 4, 2010 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 4, 2010 And on to the next testing stage to the rugby test centre for steam . yes things now starting to get serious as you can see valvegear assembled with brass dress making pins and solder. with rizzlas used for spacers and stoping the solder flowing to where we dont want it . electric lamp fittings and irons fitted to front and tender with only one lamp iron in centre as on the K1s although theres two electric light fittings in the centre of bufferbeam You can see on the gauge master controller the current comsumpition as see runs in and detect any tight spots or elctrical probles (s/c etc) ? There she blows and starts to steam test Mine is still in the box!!!!!!! Really need to get it onto the bench!! Congratulations 36E Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sugar palm Posted April 5, 2010 Author Share Posted April 5, 2010 Looks very nice, well done Thanks for that i am pleased with it but have to admit its not the first brass kit ive built Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sugar palm Posted April 5, 2010 Author Share Posted April 5, 2010 Mine is still in the box!!!!!!! Really need to get it onto the bench!! Congratulations 36E get it out show us your metal and do a build on her and be as mad as us to show your efforts on the world wide web. i am sure we will help along the way . dont forget to do those rivets as per the instructions as you cannot once youve started to assemble . i know cause i have my cousins to rebuild soon to put it right and thats harder than starting the buid with all new bits michael. (send it down stevie d)it was built by someone else though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the penguin of doom Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 Greetings from sunny Poland! Just catching up on the forum and I see she's looking good. Its that stage of the build where all the hard work has come together. Well done. Sean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sugar palm Posted April 6, 2010 Author Share Posted April 6, 2010 Greetings from sunny Poland! Just catching up on the forum and I see she's looking good. Its that stage of the build where all the hard work has come together. Well done. Sean. thanks sean was talking to rumo at york wel meet up at so show or our venue in the future. She in the paint shop as you read this my workshops like darlington north road works at the moment . more to follow boys cause a paint my own as well ! (pictures to follow) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the penguin of doom Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 thanks sean was talking to rumo at york wel meet up at so show or our venue in the future. She in the paint shop as you read this my workshops like darlington north road works at the moment . more to follow boys cause a paint my own as well ! (pictures to follow) No worries. I look forward to seeing the painted loco. Sean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sugar palm Posted April 13, 2010 Author Share Posted April 13, 2010 The workshop now looks like Darlington north road works in the 1960s bits of K1 everywhere. first its going to get a coat of precision grey etching primer followed by a coat of gloss black to make the transfers stick well. the said loco is on the turntable at darlington on page 4/5 of locomotives illustrated the L1-K1 classes 1998 july/august edition. It will be as in final stage of its life with ABS late crest and electric overhead wire markers as per the photo. Pictures to follow soon for anyone interested in the final stages bar the weathering and mucking up etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sugar palm Posted June 6, 2010 Author Share Posted June 6, 2010 So her she is in paint and photo 62004 as turned out by the 50F paint and lining shop . hope your comments are not to bad as the camera does not lie and these are my efforts for you. She had a run out on the billingham layout at the middlesborough model rail show . i would like to thank mr allan birkin of york model engineers for tuning me a brass flywheel as this is the only bit of the model not made or painted etc by myself. she also has a digitrax dx 125 chip now fitted for dcc. See what you think Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.