Rob Pulham Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Anyway the brake gear is where you're left a bit to you're own devices. All the cast bits for the brakes need mounting on whatever bits of scrap fret you can snip up and cobble together. In my eyes that's what lets down what is otherwise potentially a nice kit. It doesn't fill me with any desire to tackle any others in the range 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted May 11, 2013 Author Share Posted May 11, 2013 In my eyes that's what lets down what is otherwise potentially a nice kit. It doesn't fill me with any desire to tackle any others in the range Hi Rob, Fair point but the deficiencies in this particular kit are more of an irritation than a major problem. I've struggled with much worse. I would certainly buy more from the range including more of the Dogfishies! The main parts of the kit (The hopper and chassis unit) were surprisingly, very good. Some of the various brackets around the kit and the lack of mounting for the brakes let it down but knowing what I'm up against, along with the low price and mercifully small number of bits mean I'm happy with it. There are a few inaccuracies with the detail on the kit anyway, mainly around the operating wheel/handrail support brackets which I would alter on future builds. Come to think of it, I've never built a kit I didn't have to alter in some way, major or minor.... Cheers JF 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Hi Jon, Sorry, perhaps I sounded a bit harsh in saying it doesn't fill me with the desire to do another. To be honest I only ended up with the pipe wagon because I didn't read the listing properly If the kits in the range suited my modelling period then like you I would manage what I perceive are deficiencies and crack on. The only one in the range that I can see that fits with my grouping era modelling is the LMS coke wagon. I have a fair stock of kits that do fit my modelling aim so unless a coke wagon trips me up and lands in my lap for next to nothing (and I do appreciate that they are not expensive kits in any event) then I am unlikely to seek one out. I will however enjoy watching what you make of them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted May 13, 2013 Author Share Posted May 13, 2013 Got some paint on the Dogfish...probably a bit too much paint! (It's green under there somewhere!). The transfers are from M&M or EMKDE or whatever they call themselves and are quite nice but a little delicate. Once applied I got a bit carried away with the weathering but I think it captures the dusty, scruffy look of an average ZFV in the late 70's... Quite a nice little kit if you ignore the discrepancies with the brackets etc, but good enough to disappear into a rake of other wagons. I'll probably be buying some more and some of the catfish too once time allows. For now though now, I think I'll have to take a break from the rolling stock as I need to catch up with the signal work! Pip Pip!! JF 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Hi Jon, Nice Dogfish! It looks suitably crisp and metallic - something that plastic kits can't emulate. I remember seeing a fair few of these wagons in the early eighties when making the moulds for a 4mm. The scuffed look you have achieved with the hopper interior is particularly good. All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Looks fantastic jon, I really like your photo-board too! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted December 21, 2013 Author Share Posted December 21, 2013 (edited) A quick dust off for this topic.... This is the latest loco for Saltney. I wish I could claim I built it but it was built by Mike Williams from Flint in North Wales. My input was all the steps at the rear of the tender, fire iron rack, smokebox door dogs, LMS chimney and the paint job/weathering. The kit is the old Gateneal etched brass job (very thin body etches!) with Slater's wheels and a rather nice big motor gearbox from Finescale Brass. Very powerful,smooth and quiet. . The next one is my own build of a Steve Beattie Metro-Vic Co-Bo. I finally got round to weathering it as the airbrush was on the go with the Super D. The loco is powered on all 3 of the axles on the Co bogie by a surprisingly noisy Slaters motor gearbox and Delrin chains but is nevertheless a powerful and smooth runner. More in the new year! Jon F Edited December 29, 2013 by Jon Fitness 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted December 21, 2013 Share Posted December 21, 2013 Hi Jon Will this convert into any of the pre BR versions? It is looking the part so far. In a word, no. There were ballast hoppers of a broadly similar outline on the LNER an SR (ex-SECR) built by Leeds Forge but those were fully riveted and had a rather different stanchion arrangement. The SECR versions had some rather odd cupboard doors in the middle of the vertical bits of the sides. On Paul Barlett's site you can find them by searching for 'Trout'. Adam Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted March 13, 2014 Author Share Posted March 13, 2014 In the words of the great Monty Python team..."and now for something completely different"...I fancied a change so.. It's 7mm scale, rolling stock (road based) and I'm sure I'll manage my usual average job on it so I think it counts! There are very few 1:43/7mm scale bus kits around, and even fewer ones that are from my era of interest but, 'eres one! The Wistow Model Engineering kit for an All Leyland 1946 Titan PD1 or PD2 double decker. I'll be building this near enough as the maker intended so I can sort of review it in a way. These are the etches... The kit is supplied with cast whitemetal wheels, springs and other sundry fittings, a resin 2 part roof/rear dome, glazing and enough assorted wire/rod/strip to add the various beading required. I'll photograph each of these as I build the kit. More soon. Jon F. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted March 18, 2014 Author Share Posted March 18, 2014 Ok Here we go... First things first, a change of coffee cup was required from a railway based one to a more suitable one.. Following the instructions, the sides were separated from the fret and prepared. All tabs were filed smooth noting that the ones along the top are for locating the rain-strip / roof frame etch. Traditional bus bodywork is usually constructed from lots of almost square panels, each joint being covered up with external beading, both horizontal and vertical. The etches have grooves marked to take lengths of wire to represent these but only in the horizontal planes. I have scribed vertical lines with an OLFA cutter to mark where most of the vertical panel joints should be and I'll add these from fine wire or strip. Some of the lines scribed.... Once these were scribed, a slight tumblehome needed to be bent along the bottom 10mm of the bodysides. I wasn't sure what the gap in the panelwork was for in the lower offside corner but once the tumblehome was introduced I realised why! The corner becomes "tapered" and a small white metal casting is provided to fill the gap when the corner is formed. The first bit of soldering was the upper deck floor to the offside, followed by the front and rear bulkheads.The floor tapers at the front so the sides need a slight bend inwards from about the first window bay. I started to use my 40 watt soldering iron but it wasn't quite up to the task as I was using 188 solder. Final running in of the solder along the floor was completed using my gas mini-blowtorch. The bulkheads were soldered to the offside but only tacked to the outer edge of the floor to enable fine adjustments to match up with the nearside when I fit it. More soon JF 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted March 19, 2014 Author Share Posted March 19, 2014 The destination blind layouts varied from operator to operator and the kit gives a choice of these. There are apertures at the side and front and an infill etch is soldered in to represent the appropriate blind layout. I fitted the ones that closest resemble Bolton Transport's layout but was still left with work to do! The side blind over the rear platform entrance... As you can see there was a gap showing at the lower edge which I filled with a piece of scrap etch and lots of solder. That was the side one, the front one was different again...There wasn't an infill that was right for Bolton Transport so I chose one that could be adapted. The main blind aperture was widened and a number blind aperture marked out and created This fitted better in the hole in the front upper deck panel Once this was soldered in it was time to add the front panel and the nearside to the main structure. Much tack soldering ensued until I got the best fit and aligned the etched beading lines. I then started to solder along the edge joints taking care to make sure it was as aligned as my generally slapdash methods allowed!! The front top deck The rear bulkhead The main body assembly nearly done... To strengthen the top edges and act as a roof locating point there is an etch which solders around the perimeter. First though, the edges of this etch needed folding down. This is one of those jobs a "Hold&Fold" will probably be designed for. I have some home made bending bars which just about did the job... With the main edges bent down, the smaller sections around the front end were bent down carefully with some flat pliers With the bending done the edge etch locates on the 6 tabs (after a bit of a tussle!) It didn't really want to stay put but after a little solder was applied at each tab it stayed put. I didn't want to trust just the 6 soldered tabs to keep everything solid and straight so I decided to run solder along the top of the windows into the joint. I didn't want too much solder in there as I need to keep the area clear for when the glazing goes in. I sorted this out by applying solder paste as close as I could get to the joint and warming it all with a clean iron from the outside. Once this bit was on, I went round the rest of the body and filled in where I hadn't soldered and it is now a very strong structure. I quick blast with Cillit Bang and hot water got all the flux off and this is where I'm up to now. I'm also using a new (to me anyway!) flux from "Building O gauge online" which is superb stuff and very good value. I'm not sure what's in it but it smells much nicer than my previous flux and does the job. It's much easier to clean off too. Usual "satisfied customer" disclaimers apply! Looking a bit bus-ish now. More soon JF 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 still amazed with what you did with the Co-Bo, looks even better now with the weathering Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted March 19, 2014 Author Share Posted March 19, 2014 still amazed with what you did with the Co-Bo, looks even better now with the weatheringThanks! Fun but I wouldn't like to do another Definitely looks better with a bit of grime on it. I may still come back to it and add more having seen more pics of them! JF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted March 20, 2014 Author Share Posted March 20, 2014 It was going quite well.... Time to fit the back platform. The platform has a tab which locates in a slot in the base of the bulkhead. I soldered this in position and prepared to do a job I hadn't been looking forward to; the forming of the bend round the back of the bus. I next tried out the resin casting for the rear upper deck panel. As you can see something had gone a bit wrong. The rear lower panel wasn't sitting far enough out. I had my suspicions when I formed it as the curve at the back seemed too shallow and the patch piece didn't match the profile. Even though I had added a tumblehome in both planes it still didn't stand the panel out far enough. If I did add enough tumblehome at the back it would look way too curvy! I decided then (rightly or wrongly) to extend the platform back by 2mm with some scrap etch and re-profile the back corner to match. As you can see I'm making my usual messy job of things but I think it all aligns a little better now. More soon JF 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 Interesting John, it's all those complex curves and rounded corners that present quite a challenge. I'm looking forward to seeing more progress! Regards Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dmudriver Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 I do like this model, Jon. Did Crosville have any of them? I could build one - it would look good on the road to WKT station!! What sound chip are you putting in it? Are they even done for buses? Rod Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted March 20, 2014 Author Share Posted March 20, 2014 I do like this model, Jon. Did Crosville have any of them? I could build one - it would look good on the road to WKT station!! What sound chip are you putting in it? Are they even done for buses? Rod It'll make a reasonable model of a fairly common bus and yes they did have some. I've found a pic of two parked up at Dyserth. The bad news is they were all gone by 1963. Sound chips..I could always play a recording of my old heap. It has the same engine!JF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted March 20, 2014 Author Share Posted March 20, 2014 Interesting John, it's all those complex curves and rounded corners that present quite a challenge. I'm looking forward to seeing more progress! Regards Tony I'm beginning to think its a but too curvy! The body style is a bit pre-war and the supplied radiator casting supplied is definitely from a TD series rather than the post-war PD but I'll sort that out. Sadly there is no Laurie Griffin equivalent for 7mm scale buses for me to get some nice castings from!JF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dmudriver Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 "The bad news is they were all gone by 1963". Shame!! Never mind, it was just a thought, inspired by your building of this model. Rod Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merfyn Jones Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Hi Jon I have followed with interest the Leyland bus. I bought one of their TD1 kits from e.bay a couple of years ago. The kit was produced about 30 years ago and it shows. Not the easiest of things to put together with those curved panels and mixed materials to get lined up. Your progress will probably either get me to finish what I have started or put it with the other unfinished kits pile. Merf. p s the Crosville ones were the PD2 post war model and were all based at Sunny Rhyl. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 (edited) "Looks like the back end of a bus...." As the only period picture I have of the rear of a Bolton PD2 seems to have got in shot, you can see that the kit needs some alterations to suit. It looks to be a fairly early shot as they were later fitted with flashing trafficators by the cab doors and I presume these were repeated at the back as well. The holes for the registration number and the stoplight filled in. I'll sort out the new reg plate and lights once the beading is fitted. The rear wheel arches have an etched mudguard overlay. The idea is to fit these vertically and fill the gap between the mudguard and tumblehome with solder. The little folded ends tuck under the body to act as finishers. The back panel on the rear platform is meant to have it's edge "thickened" with another strip of etch but it still didn't look thick enough. I used a piece of 1.5mm square brass tube shaped and soldered in. There will be a handrail fitted to this later so it needs a bit of bulk to it. Time to add a bit of beading so I can get on with finishing the back end alterations. A roll of 0.0018" brass wire is provided for this job. I'm not entirely sure how you are meant to fit this. The instructions suggest securing one end, then hold the wire down in a pre-fluxed groove whilst running a soldering iron along the wire. Was I meant to tin the wire or bring the solder on the iron? In the end I soldered one end in a groove with a small amount of 188deg then ran a bit of solder paste along the whole length of the groove. I held down the wire with a wooden coffee stirrer and ran a very clean iron right behind it along the length of the bus. Even turned right up, my 60w soldering station struggled to get the heat through the wire and melt the solder so I re-cleaned the tip and did the same action but with the tip jammed in the joint between wire and bus. Messier but much more effective. I carried out a "pick" test to check it was all stuck and only one little area need a re-solder. I think I'll need a bit of a lie down in a darkened room when all this beadings done but after a bit of cleaning up it's fairly presentable. You can see the little blobs of paste in the groove ready to take the wire. I think I got the amount just about right as there wasn't too much to clean off afterwards! More soon JF Edited March 22, 2014 by Jon Fitness 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwr Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 There's a lot more to this bus building than you realise! Excellent work Paul R Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 There's a lot more to this bus building than you realise! Excellent work Paul R Indeed! At the moment it feels like I'm building a wagon kit that has something like "Sort of LMS/BR Van..possibly" written on the label. It's still better than the Mercian Birmingham Standard though!JF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 It is coming on well Jon. I am following with interest, it is a very involved kit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 Hello Jon, for the beading, I think that I'd have tinned the wire with a lot of 145 deg. solder and used a damp (just a bit of solder on it, you get better heat transfer [but you know that]) iron. A bit of solder past wouldn't go amiss as well. Then lots of liquid flux. Then run the iron at about 430 deg. Interesting looking build. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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