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Wright writes.....


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46 minutes ago, Clem said:

Already ordered. Thank you so much for the info. I've been wanting to get my hands on some for the last few years!

 

You're very welcome.  Incidentally, if anyone here is concerned that Johnson's 'Pledge Revive It' might not be the old clear Klear, have a look at the glowing customers' (model makers) reviews under the listing on Amazon.

 

Pete T.

 

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2 hours ago, Clem said:

Should I remove it then? ... Or will everyone who happens to open it be privately studying it?

 

All these things get subjective. Turning it around from a publisher's perspective (My SLS Editor's hat on) sharing a page or two from one of our old Journals or now out of print/out of stock books is unlikely to ever be an issue although people should ask first if an extract is for re-publication. Our two latest books from 2017 are current titles and in stock, a page or two copied and shared to an individual would be perfectly acceptable as part of the private study exemption but we wouldn't want that extract put on line for all to see f-o-c.   As for our photograph collection all are available to buy, copyright must be respected for widespread publication such as on an open to all web-site, if you want an exemption it may be granted depending on many circumstances including where it is to be shared, size of the print run etc., but you should ask the SPC custodian first. 

 

Re the work you shared from Railway Modeller -  it's out of print = yes, however the publisher (PECO) still exists and may take a different view to the one I've outlined above regarding their archive collection. 

 

The above is my quick answer, please do ask re SLS titles and images we won't bite.

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1 hour ago, PJT said:

 

You're very welcome.  Incidentally, if anyone here is concerned that Johnson's 'Pledge Revive It' might not be the old clear Klear, have a look at the glowing customers' (model makers) reviews under the listing on Amazon.

 

Pete T.

 

I bought a bottle of the Australian version "Pledge One Go" a few years ago but I haven't seen it in the shops for a while.

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3 hours ago, PJT said:

The £13 price tag (for 0.8 litres/1.4 pints, incl. delivery) made me flinch a bit, but once I started using it again I forgave the price.

 

At that price, I will be forever thankful that I cleared the shelves of Asda when rumours of Klear's impending demise were circulating.

 

I still have most of my stash in the shed.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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10 minutes ago, john new said:

All these things get subjective. Turning it around from a publisher's perspective (My SLS Editor's hat on) sharing a page or two from one of our old Journals or now out of print/out of stock books is unlikely to ever be an issue although people should ask first if an extract is for re-publication. Our two latest books from 2017, a page or two copied and shared to an individual would be perfectly acceptable as part of the private study exemption but we wouldn't want that extract put on line for all to see f-o-c.   As for our photograph collection all are available to buy, copyright must be respected for widespread publication such as on an open to all web-site, if you want an exemption it may be granted depending on many circumstances including where it is to be shared, size of the print run etc., but you should ask the SPC custodian first. 

 

Re the work you shared, from Railway Modeller -  it's out of print = yes, however the publisher (PECO) still exists and may take a different view to the one I've outlined above regarding their archive collection. 

 

The above is my quick answer, please do ask re SLS titles and images we won't bite.

Thanks John for the information. I think, bearing in mind the speed this thread travels at, and that most  people won't go trawling back on this thread through potentially hundreds of pages, in a few days that link will be fairly difficult to find unless one specifically searched for it which is unlikely on any kind of scale. So hopefully , using common sense for this case, I can simply let it fade into the archives.  However rest assured for all future similar postings for others on the thread here, I'll try to identify and ask the current copyright holder first. 

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Possiblly best thing to do would be to remove the link once its clear that the discussion has moved on and it's no longer needed for private study.

 

Then there would be no risk of repercussion in the future after the use has been had of it. One of those, better safe then sorry situations.

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20 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

At that price, I will be forever thankful that I cleared the shelves of Asda when rumours of Klear's impending demise were circulating.

I couldn't agree more; if I'd heard the rumours I'd have picked up enough to keep me going (and warned fellow model makers).  However, I didn't and for those of us who didn't have the forewarning/foresight I suspect we're all just happy to have another chance to buy it again.  To be honest, even at £13 it's still a good price when compared to other varnishes, final finish coatings etc. - it only becomes very expensive when compared to the price when it was last available in the supermarkets... which it isn't any more, more's the pity.

 

I've no connection to the product or sellers, just a very satisfied user.

 

Pete T.

 

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2 hours ago, James Fitzjames said:

Not wishing to drag this extraordinary thread back to an earlier point (says he, about to do just that), I have to convey my thanks for its inspiration and motivation. Without going into detail, I have experienced some of the situational and psychological difficulties Tony and other posters were brave enough to outline recently, with an unhealthy dose of active service-acquired PTSD thrown in for good measure. Nobody without experience could possibly envisage being afraid of something they enjoy doing, but this has been true for me, aided and abetted by the modern 'comfort zone' of viewing, reading about and engaging with the hobby, without ever having to actually indulge beyond acquisition (from scratch, since years of work have been vindictively eradicated, but that's another story).

 

Last night, I put scalpel to kit wagon floor and scraped. Then I filed. It was good. Given the stunning skills and work on display on this thread, this might appear to be laughably insignificant, but, it represents my first step on a (very weathered-looking) ladder, and the door of Last Chance Saloon slamming shut. If I had not read the foregoing posts, I doubt that scalpel would ever have been wielded again. So, thank you all for your inspiration, and Tony and co., for their bravery.

Thank you for your bravery, James,

 

Good on you!

 

Kindest regards,

 

Tony. 

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5 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

In comparison with Peter Everton's work, I'm hesitant to illustrate my J6s again, but they are built for a different environment, and definitely not the showcase! 

 

428974686_J6painted03.jpg.a635a7628ed01a185bb346e95649687c.jpg

 

This is the one I built some 18 months ago, using the latest release from SE Finecast, which featured in the Railway Modeller. I painted it and It's now been sold to Geoff West who's weathered it perfectly. 

 

925670331_Nu-CastJ6.jpg.aede4157de915ed9cb0ab42b1eaff14d.jpg

 

This is an original Nu-Cast one, started by Ian Wilson and finished/painted by me. Tom Wright weathered it. 

 

95349573_secondSEFJ6weathered01.jpg.27496d4e84554a9dcd644bbaef58e71e.jpg

 

107744723_secondSEFJ6weathered03.jpg.93d62fc8dc46c009379f0a37ecacedf3.jpg

 

72127147_J6onDownstopper.jpg.1653e133120763b6c78bfb05bf612d30.jpg

 

I also built/painted/weathered a second SE Finecast J6, fitting a London Road Models' tender. 

 

1386796085_J6bycottages01.jpg.e3832c34e0ed79762e988f70a0a7bc6c.jpg

 

1779762476_J6bycottages03.jpg.444046ecc64e96ebc98f6ec80e2271fa.jpg

 

645600920_LRMJ6.jpg.59a43ed078700942d303e15f68428179.jpg

 

Probably the best J6 kit in 4mm is the LRM etched brass one. Here's mine (representing an Ivatt example) fussing about in the goods yard on LB.

 

426569312_WSMJ6onbridge.jpg.49564b80b9d4cc790a458a112ab6da37.jpg

 

That ancient WSM one featured yesterday still sees service on the MR/M&GNR bit of LB. It still exists, but that  wrong bridge is no more! 

 

 

 

Good Afternoon Tony

 

I trust you are well? I really like photo's number 6 & 7. Gives me a slight image of my Gran cursing the engine crew, as smoke from the J6 wafts across her washing. Similar curses probably to when the house chimney caught fire and filled the front room with flames and soot.

 

Best Regards,

Lee

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15 hours ago, Clem said:

Hi Andrew, Lovely. That's the kind of finish to these RTRs I've been looking for. If I may can I ask what method you used to paint them. I brush painted mine very carefully (3 coats for teak panelled crimson and 4 for  steel panelled). I was happy with the finish but found the varnish seemed to leave it less smooth on close inspection, although the reflection on the sides gives a reasonable impression cleanish steel panelling when the coach is moving. Did you take your's apart and spray as was my initial thought? I was going to do that  but I just couldn't face all the masking off so many windows.(Laziness strikes again!)

 

Hi Steve. Thanks for that. I thought you probably used the original Klear. Your method certainly has put the icing on the cake.  I find that I get little particles appearing in the new formula. I wish I could get hold of some of the original but it's like going in search of the lost chord! I've used a different shade of red to you as mine is pre-1956 livery change.

You can get it now but it is in a different bottle and name, no yellowing etc and goes on like a dream. I visited little bytham and left with a small challenge from tony to weather my RTR A3 and a tip to get some Klear, spent ages researching and testing products (as a Yorkshireman i wasn’t paying to import the original from over seas). I then found this and it is the same formulae apparently.

C3E39D49-6EA8-4B7B-9C92-796AD0C5B9E6.jpeg

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27 minutes ago, Willow Junction said:

You can get it now but it is in a different bottle and name, no yellowing etc and goes on like a dream. I visited little bytham and left with a small challenge from tony to weather my RTR A3 and a tip to get some Klear, spent ages researching and testing products (as a Yorkshireman i wasn’t paying to import the original from over seas). I then found this and it is the same formulae apparently.

C3E39D49-6EA8-4B7B-9C92-796AD0C5B9E6.jpeg

 

Do you recall where you got it in the UK by any chance?  A Google search only seems to show "imported" prices...   :(

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2 hours ago, PJT said:

I couldn't agree more; if I'd heard the rumours I'd have picked up enough to keep me going (and warned fellow model makers).  However, I didn't and for those of us who didn't have the forewarning/foresight I suspect we're all just happy to have another chance to buy it again.  To be honest, even at £13 it's still a good price when compared to other varnishes, final finish coatings etc. - it only becomes very expensive when compared to the price when it was last available in the supermarkets... which it isn't any more, more's the pity.

 

I've no connection to the product or sellers, just a very satisfied user.

 

Pete T.

 

 

Pete,

 

There was a thread on here at the time - that's what prompted my raid on Asda !

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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1 hour ago, cctransuk said:

There was a thread on here at the time - that's what prompted my raid on Asda !

Ah, that will have been back in my unenlightened decades, when I soldiered on with my model making without the huge resource of experience and help that is RMweb!

 

1 hour ago, cctransuk said:

That is the imported article (and price). 

Yup, you're quite right John, that's where I've been getting my original clear Klear from.  Some (but not all) other importers charge like a wounded bull for it: I've seen it even recently elsewhere on the internet for £30 or more, though I doubt whether many (or any) actually gets sold at that sort of price.

 

Pete T.

 

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16 hours ago, Clem said:

Hi Andrew, Lovely. That's the kind of finish to these RTRs I've been looking for. If I may can I ask what method you used to paint them. I brush painted mine very carefully (3 coats for teak panelled crimson and 4 for  steel panelled). I was happy with the finish but found the varnish seemed to leave it less smooth on close inspection, although the reflection on the sides gives a reasonable impression cleanish steel panelling when the coach is moving. Did you take your's apart and spray as was my initial thought? I was going to do that  but I just couldn't face all the masking off so many windows.(Laziness strikes again!)

 

Hi Steve. Thanks for that. I thought you probably used the original Klear. Your method certainly has put the icing on the cake.  I find that I get little particles appearing in the new formula. I wish I could get hold of some of the original but it's like going in search of the lost chord! I've used a different shade of red to you as mine is pre-1956 livery change.

 

Evening Clem,

 

The carriage has brass sides, much sharper relief and no jam jar glazing. I've had problems with undercoat in recent times, having to send away for my favourite type. Unfortunately, about 60% have been faulty, a new option was required. I tried Halfords, utter rubbish, not suitable for model railway stuff, unless you want a poor to average finish. By accident, I am now using Tetrosyl primer, it is brilliant, very happy.

 

The BR crimson is railmatch, as recommended by Larry G as the best match, mixed with a little gloss varnish and airbrushed on. Transfers where then applied and a couple of coats of varnish, gloss/ satin mix at the appropriate air pressure to stop it looking overscale like a treacle tart.

 

When repainting RTR, I have both removed and masked the glazing with great results.

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39 minutes ago, Headstock said:

 

Evening Clem,

 

The carriage has brass sides, much sharper relief and no jam jar glazing. I've had problems with undercoat in recent times, having to send away for my favourite type. Unfortunately, about 60% have been faulty, a new option was required. I tried Halfords, utter rubbish, not suitable for model railway stuff, unless you want a poor to average finish. By accident, I am now using Tetrosyl primer, it is brilliant, very happy.

 

The BR crimson is railmatch, as recommended by Larry G as the best match, mixed with a little gloss varnish and airbrushed on. Transfers where then applied and a couple of coats of varnish, gloss/ satin mix at the appropriate air pressure to stop it looking overscale like a treacle tart.

 

When repainting RTR, I have both removed and masked the glazing with great results.

 

Hi Andrew,

 

Thanks for coming back to me. A really useful and informative reply. Comet sides?  On the primer subject, I shall look out for Tetrosyl as I have in the past had, at best, mixed results from Halfords. The shade of crimson for early 50s carriages always leads to an interesting discussion. I have plumpted for the Phoenix Precision Crimson (faded) as I generally try to match up to colour photos from which I take my reference and it  seems pretty close to many of the photos I have (e.g. see Hugh Ballantyne's 'Eastern Steam in Colour' P60). There's much discussion about how the colour in colour photos is both notoriously unreliable and subjective but I think for me,  it's a case of working from a benchmark and they provide a convenient one. Having said that, I notice that even in old photos the crimson colour varied and rail match crimson as finished on your's is also spot on in comparison with the photos in Keith Pirt's 'Steam Colour Portfolio Midland & Eastern Lines' . 

 

As for repainting RTRs, I found from previous side replacement projects that the glazing on the discarded sides seems to be very permanently attached and this was one of the factors that encouraged me to try my hand at brush painting - something I've very rarely risked for main coats before. However, after a number of thin coats,  the paint finish was quite reasonable only to be reduced in quality by the Humbrol Gloss Clear used to give the steel panel effect. I certainly haven't built enough to have a knowledgeable point of view either on carriage building or painting. Hence I'm very keen to learn off other folk and I've always been stunned (in a good way!) by photos of your work. BTW did you apply the very subtle but convincing/effective weathering using dry brush techniques? 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Clem said:

 

Hi Andrew,

 

Thanks for coming back to me. A really useful and informative reply. Comet sides?  On the primer subject, I shall look out for Tetrosyl as I have in the past had, at best, mixed results from Halfords. The shade of crimson for early 50s carriages always leads to an interesting discussion. I have plumpted for the Phoenix Precision Crimson (faded) as I generally try to match up to colour photos from which I take my reference and it  seems pretty close to many of the photos I have (e.g. see Hugh Ballantyne's 'Eastern Steam in Colour' P60). There's much discussion about how the colour in colour photos is both notoriously unreliable and subjective but I think for me,  it's a case of working from a benchmark and they provide a convenient one. Having said that, I notice that even in old photos the crimson colour varied and rail match crimson as finished on your's is also spot on in comparison with the photos in Keith Pirt's 'Steam Colour Portfolio Midland & Eastern Lines' . 

 

As for repainting RTRs, I found from previous side replacement projects that the glazing on the discarded sides seems to be very permanently attached and this was one of the factors that encouraged me to try my hand at brush painting - something I've very rarely risked for main coats before. However, after a number of thin coats,  the paint finish was quite reasonable only to be reduced in quality by the Humbrol Gloss Clear used to give the steel panel effect. I certainly haven't built enough to have a knowledgeable point of view either on carriage building or painting. Hence I'm very keen to learn off other folk and I've always been stunned (in a good way!) by photos of your work. BTW did you apply the very subtle but convincing/effective weathering using dry brush techniques? 

 

 

 

Clem,

 

yes, Comet sides. I usually take out the whole side, leaving a strip below the cornice and at the ends. From experience, the more material you leave that you have to glue too, the more likely the it is to dry out and the sides come adrift at some time in the future. I use Evostick, then reinforced with the liquid type of superglue and add anchor strips between the roof and sides, a real belt and braces job. There is also far less material to then remove to get the correct width across the carriage and produce the right tumblehome. The downsides of many brass sided carriages is the width and tumbehome usually get junked in the process.

 

With regard to faded colour, BR crimson usually goes pinkish, I'm not certain how that works with a gloss finish though. The two things would seem to be opposites. With teak carriages, the first thing to go was the sheen of the varnish, as it lost its shine, the teak lost its tonal variation and it would darken with age to something like chocolate, re-varnishing would darken it still.

 

BR crimson is just edging my time period, so I'm not an expert, though I have certain expectations of what it should look like. I trust Coachman, he always gets it right. It saves an awful lot of time, a lot of hot air and many a lengthy RM web thread. Once some sort of datum is established, it is certainly worth experimenting with different colours and finishes within a rake for a more authentic look. For my own personal modelling, crimson would be brand new, so the contrast is against big four liveries, though some fun could be had with the likes of the Thompson BZ seen up thread.

 

RE weathering on carriages. All airbrush but with the caveat that I was taught how to paint with an airbrush rather than spray paint out of an airbrush. Dry brushing I use very sparingly, I would find it too time consuming for general use anyway. Most of my  brush weathering is done wet on wet or wash on dry.

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26 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

 

And LRM's one. An interesting duty; the water train for the more remote 'boxes, not having mains access. A churn would be delivered each week, full of fresh water. Please spot the (not deliberate) error!

 

 

 

The first brake van also has lamp(s)?

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