Wright writes.....

[Tony Wright]

1 minute ago, St Enodoc said:

So what's stopping you now?

Nothing,

 

I'm getting the bits together right now to continue.

 

It's a choice for the next few days......

 

Pictures, point rodding, D16/3, Lancs & Yorks 0-6-0.........................................

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[thegreenhowards]

14 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Any other K3 models out there?  

Tony,

 

I have three K3s on Gresley Jn, which is probably more than I need - but I love them! One is Bachmann with a little detailing and weathering, one is the Wills body you sold me on a Bachmann chassis which I showed on here relatively recently (probably just a couple of hundred pages back!). I won't bother putting them on here though they featured recently working on my Gresley Jn thread if anyone's interested.

 

The third is my pride and joy which is a SE Finecast kit. I've shown you this before, but I'm not sure whether it has featured on the thread, certainly not recently. I bought it off eBay with wheels and motor and someone had made a start on it, but apart from the frames (which luckily were square) not much had been done.

I based her on an example picture in working steam- LNER 2-6-0s. I do think the SE Finecast kit is brilliant. it certainly makes you learn about K3 variants with all the options they provide. This one, like most of my kits, is painted with Halfords rattle cans and finished with Modelmaster decals.

 

Here is a video of her on an up fish train on Gresley Jn.

 

 

Andy

 

 

[Bucoops]

The D16/3 gets my vote

[jamie92208]

Point rodding.

[Tony Wright]

6 minutes ago, thegreenhowards said:

Tony,

 

I have three K3s on Gresley Jn, which is probably more than I need - but I love them! One is Bachmann with a little detailing and weathering, one is the Wills body you sold me on a Bachmann chassis which I showed on here relatively recently (probably just a couple of hundred pages back!). I won't bother putting them on here though they featured recently working on my Gresley Jn thread if anyone's interested.

 

The third is my pride and joy which is a SE Finecast kit. I've shown you this before, but I'm not sure whether it has featured on the thread, certainly not recently. I bought it off eBay with wheels and motor and someone had made a start on it, but apart from the frames (which luckily were square) not much had been done.

I based her on an example picture in working steam- LNER 2-6-0s. I do think the SE Finecast kit is brilliant. it certainly makes you learn about K3 variants with all the options they provide. This one, like most of my kits, is painted with Halfords rattle cans and finished with Modelmaster decals.

 

Here is a video of her on an up fish train on Gresley Jn.

 

 

Andy

 

 

Good morning Andy,

 

Here it is on Little Bytham.

 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

[Headstock]

K3 valve gear gets my vote, lengthen the radius rod and connect the combination lever to the valve spindle crosshead. Oh, and eliminate stunted LMS vans.

Edited March 29, 2020 by Headstock
Change leaver to lever

[Tony Wright]

6 minutes ago, jamie92208 said:

Point rodding.

I'm just off to make some more.

 

A report will be on here later.

 

Regards,

 

Tony.

[Tony Wright]

1 minute ago, Headstock said:

K3 valve gear gets my vote, lengthen the radius rod and connect the combination leaver to the valve spindle crosshead. Oh, and eliminate stunted LMS vans.

And, while I'm at it, raise Lazarus, feed the 5,000, turn water into wine and come back from the dead!

 

And what's the combination lever left? Or left the combination lever? 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Erichill16]

12 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

And, while I'm at it, raise Lazarus, feed the 5,000, turn water into wine and come back from the dead!

 

And what's the combination lever left? Or left the combination lever? 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

and find a cure for Covid-19 infection?

regards Robert

[cb900f]

Morning Tony,

 

I wish now that I hadn't mentioned it. I was trying to say that the top of the combination lever should be positioned within the valve stem cover. I didn't realise at the time that it was Bachmann valve gear .

 

Regards  Pete

[DougN]

All this talk of valve gear is very timely as I have spent a large proportion of today building my V2's valve gear I think I am about half way through... 

 

i hope this photo shows the pair of V2's I have been working on. 

[Headstock]

28 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

And, while I'm at it, raise Lazarus, feed the 5,000, turn water into wine and come back from the dead!

 

And what's the combination lever left? Or left the combination lever? 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

That's not very inspiring!

[thegreenhowards]

57 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Good morning Andy,

 

Here it is on Little Bytham.

 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

So it is - in a senior moment I completely forgot about that photo. You must have a very good filing system!

[Atso]

4 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Lovely variations, Steve,

 

I like the observation of having the earlier ones displaying their horizontal handrails clipped to the smokebox ring. 

 

Is it possible to make the front steps?

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

Thank you Tony.

 

I'm sure it is possible to make the front steps. However, I think I'll wait until I have a bit more of a layout to ensure they won't cause any clearance issues with the pony.

[great central]

4 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Please, be critical, Pete.

 

I modelled it on this image.......

 

 

61828 in full forward gear.

 

 

And my interpretation. 

 

If there is a problem, it's the too-steep angle of the slidebars/crosshead. I think I've got the motion support bracket fixed a bit too low. And, I should have made a better job of fixing on that front balance weight. In fairness, at this magnification, the driving wheels would be over 16' diameter in 4mm scale! 

 

As supplied, Bachmann's gear is more like this.....

 

 

In reverse.

 

I concede, it would have been better to use etched valve gear. Note the recessed front crankpin (to clear the slidebars/crosshead), something rarely modelled (except in the more-accurate gauges).

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I think the part I've highlighted says something about how models are seen nowadays.

We, well a heck of a lot of us, now have the readily available facilities to take a photo of something quite small and blow it up to gargantuan proportions, something only available to a small, often highly skilled group using expensive equipment not so long ago.

This brings to the fore small errors and inaccuracies which would have, at one time, probably gone unseen.

Not perhaps the valve gear set up shown (my particular bugbear is the set up of eccentric cranks) but most likely the slightly imperfect fit of the balance weight, also the wheels, dare I say it, look rather clunky compared with the real ones shown in the other photo.

Neither of these bother me in the slightest because I accept that we are talking about a model of reasonably small proportions and from normal viewing distance, particularly when in motion, these things are all but invisible.

Whilst I'm not advocating accepting glaring errors I think it can be quite off-putting for some people to have things almost invisible to the naked eye pointed out as a major faux Pas.

This first occurred to me some years ago when a magazine was doing a review of an N gauge RTR model, I forget which but the picture shown took up over half the height of a page so umpteen times the size of the model!

So I would suggest that unless anyone has infinite time and resources such things aren't worth changing. I know many of my models are far from perfect but as I seem to have lost pretty much all motivation to do anything now that's how they'll stay because if I can find myself sitting down again for a session I don't really want to revisit stuff I did maybe thirty or more years ago.

[Tony Wright]

2 hours ago, cb900f said:

Morning Tony,

 

I wish now that I hadn't mentioned it. I was trying to say that the top of the combination lever should be positioned within the valve stem cover. I didn't realise at the time that it was Bachmann valve gear .

 

Regards  Pete

Good afternoon Pete,

 

Please, your observations are always welcome.

 

I should have built proper gear for it, but indolence prevailed!

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

2 hours ago, thegreenhowards said:

So it is - in a senior moment I completely forgot about that photo. You must have a very good filing system!

It's the simplest filing system of all, Andy.

 

All I do is bring up 'search' on my computer. So, all the pictures I have of model K3s (or any model) will be filed as 'K3 No. 618XX or 619XX. Thus, I just typed in K3 61826. The computer will tell me which folder it's in, and I just find it from there.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

[Tony Wright]

2 hours ago, Headstock said:

 

That's not very inspiring!

My apologies,

 

I doubt if much of what I've done could be described as 'inspiring'. 'Helpful', I hope, but you only have to look at what's posted by others (or pictures of the work of others posted by me) on here to find inspiration, including your work. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

So, the decision has been made................

 

Point rodding (and a bit of photography) is today's task.........

 

 

I find it easier to build it 'on the layout' so to speak - much easier to keep checking how it fits. 

 

The piece I've made this morning is about a (real) foot long, and represents and hour and a half's work. The piece of ply, marked with the spacing of the stools, acts as the crudest form of 'jig'. 

 

 

With the piece now painted, it's ready for installation. I use .4mm straight brass wire to make the lengths. I did start off with the square-section nickel silver wire sold for the job, but it's impossible to tell which is which.

 

More later........

 

 

[Bulwell Hall]

On the theme of showing what we are doing during the lock down - here is what I have been up to whilst self-isolating in my shed. This is the junction with the Bridport branch on my slowly progressing Maiden Newton project.  The track is built to EM standards using steel rail, Exactoscale GWR two-bolt chairs, Modelu 3D printed GWR slide chairs and sleepers from real tree wood.  In fact the photo was taken a few days ago and the turnout in the foreground leading to the Bridport bay platform has also now been done.  I seem to be on a roll with it at the moment and will post further photos of progress in due course if there is interest.

 

Gerry

Edited March 29, 2020 by Bulwell Hall

[polybear]

Hi Tony/All,

 

I have acquired a DJH Standard Class 5 Loco with Portescap Motor; it appears nicely made (albeit with pickups on the Tender only).

However, it seems very prone to slipping .  I've eliminated the possibility of the front bogie and Tender lifting the driving wheels.  Wheels and track are oil free.

I did wonder if the loco has too much weight added?  The Loco weighs 365g without Tender, and the Tender itself weighs 200g.

Is this comparable with other's Locos?

Many thanks.

Brian

[rowanj]

It's Headstock's fault that I'm being dragged into this coach-building malarkey, as he insisted that I need some ex-NER Suburban stock. Here is where am I to date with a pair of D&S builds. They had almost all gone by 1951 so it'd debatable about what condition they were in at the end. The photo also shows the difference between the LNER Brown which went onto most pre-grouping secondary stock and Lner Teak, and also the difference between the 2 recommendations I was given to represent it. I quite like contrast, and don't think either shade is "right" or "wrong".

Thanks, Andrew.

Edited March 29, 2020 by rowanj

[Chuffer Davies]

51 minutes ago, polybear said:

Hi Tony/All,

 

I have acquired a DJH Standard Class 5 Loco with Portescap Motor; it appears nicely made (albeit with pickups on the Tender only).

However, it seems very prone to slipping .  I've eliminated the possibility of the front bogie and Tender lifting the driving wheels.  Wheels and track are oil free.

I did wonder if the loco has too much weight added?  The Loco weighs 365g without Tender, and the Tender itself weighs 200g.

Is this comparable with other's Locos?

Many thanks.

Brian

Hi Brian,

Weight is good, and as long as it is baring down on the driven wheels then it is going to improve the tractive potential of the model.  If the loco is slipping then there are typically two possible causes: 

1)  Something is lifting the weight away from the driven wheels, either the bogie (which you say it definitely isn't), the tender through the draw bar, or very uneven weight distribution such that the front of the loco is sitting down on the bogie.

2) Resistance in the non driven wheels, and again either the bogie or tender wheels may not be turning freely.  

 

There is a third possibility if the back to backs are too far apart such that the flanges are rubbing on the inside of the rails and lifting the loco off the track but this would be a very unusual occurrence.

 

Hope this helps,

Frank 

[Tony Wright]

1 hour ago, polybear said:

Hi Tony/All,

 

I have acquired a DJH Standard Class 5 Loco with Portescap Motor; it appears nicely made (albeit with pickups on the Tender only).

However, it seems very prone to slipping .  I've eliminated the possibility of the front bogie and Tender lifting the driving wheels.  Wheels and track are oil free.

I did wonder if the loco has too much weight added?  The Loco weighs 365g without Tender, and the Tender itself weighs 200g.

Is this comparable with other's Locos?

Many thanks.

Brian

Good afternoon Brian,

 

I don't think too much weight would cause slipping (unless it's poorly-distributed).

 

May I suggest you remove the bogie and run the loco under load without it, to absolutely eliminate any possibility of it being the cause? 

 

You say it only has pick-ups on the tender. A pity, because a further test would be to run the loco, minus bogie and tender and see how much it would push. 

 

You can exploit the tender's weight by resting its drawbar/draw-hook on the loco's dragbeam. This will help if the loco is nose-heavy.

 

I have no idea what my locos weigh. I just weight them until they'll pull the heaviest trains with ease.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[t-b-g]

1 hour ago, polybear said:

Hi Tony/All,

 

I have acquired a DJH Standard Class 5 Loco with Portescap Motor; it appears nicely made (albeit with pickups on the Tender only).

However, it seems very prone to slipping .  I've eliminated the possibility of the front bogie and Tender lifting the driving wheels.  Wheels and track are oil free.

I did wonder if the loco has too much weight added?  The Loco weighs 365g without Tender, and the Tender itself weighs 200g.

Is this comparable with other's Locos?

Many thanks.

Brian

 

One possibility  is that the pick ups on the tender are acting like brakes, so the loco is trying to pull a 200g skate. Can the tender wheels turn freely when spun by hand off the track? That would eliminate one possible cause.