RMweb Gold Barry Ten Posted January 2, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 2, 2013 Cant comment on Continental European and Japanese N scale though. I had to exercise iron self control not to come home with some Japanese stuff after my trip to Tokyo earlier last year - it all looked so fantastic. In the end I contented myself with a die-cast push-along Shikansen from the airport souvenir shop... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeavyDuty Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 I was giving serious consideration to a major effort in US outline N as recently as last year, to the point of actually accumulating a fair amount of equipment suitable for late 1980s Powder River BN and C&NW operations. However, I'm just not sure my eyes are up to it. I found a local T-Trak group (small table top N scale modules) and may be giving this more limited approach a try to see if I can cope with N long term. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted January 2, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 2, 2013 I had to exercise iron self control not to come home with some Japanese stuff after my trip to Tokyo earlier last year - it all looked so fantastic. In the end I contented myself with a die-cast push-along Shikansen from the airport souvenir shop... I do actually have a 2nd hand Narita Express set I bought some years ago after having travelled into Tokyo from the airport on one. Its a very nice model. However it's only been run on our 009 layout. Must give it a run on Santa Barbara / Banbury one day. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted January 2, 2013 Author Share Posted January 2, 2013 I was giving serious consideration to a major effort in US outline N as recently as last year, to the point of actually accumulating a fair amount of equipment suitable for late 1980s Powder River BN and C&NW operations. However, I'm just not sure my eyes are up to it. I found a local T-Trak group (small table top N scale modules) and may be giving this more limited approach a try to see if I can cope with N long term. Well, I found that giving HO rolling stock the detail I thought they needed was one of the reasons I wanted to try N again. The level of detail I was striving for in HO is just not needed in N - you take a broader view. Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeavyDuty Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 Pete, that's exactly what I was hoping for - leaving the whole gotta-modify-it-to-match-this-photo mindset behind and going for the big picture instead. I'm just not sure I can see the big picture well enough to enjoy it! What I've been wanting to experiment with is how additional lighting affects my ability to work in N. I've noticed my near vision actually isn't too bad so long as I have enough light, which actually works well with trying to recreate the feel of Wyoming. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Barry Ten Posted January 2, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 2, 2013 In my experience there are really only a few fiddly bits involved with N: - putting on fishplates - but you soon get the hang of it - installing/repairing couplers (sometimes they also need to be removed to get the body off) - some of the fine detail in the structure kits can be a bit "challenging" (I'm thinking here of the pulley assemblies in the Walthers coaling tower, for instance) but if you don't feel up to it, you can always leave the fiddly bits off. The rest is no worse, or even easier than HO since there don't seem to be nearly as many bits to add on to locos, freight cars etc. They tend to be good to go from the box. Getting stuff on the rails is no harder than HO and I've found such issues as derailment, stalling etc to be almost nonexistent. I honestly can't say that N is harder on the eyes than HO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted January 2, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 2, 2013 In my experience there are really only a few fiddly bits involved with N: - putting on fishplates - but you soon get the hang of it - installing/repairing couplers (sometimes they also need to be removed to get the body off) - some of the fine detail in the structure kits can be a bit "challenging" (I'm thinking here of the pulley assemblies in the Walthers coaling tower, for instance) but if you don't feel up to it, you can always leave the fiddly bits off. The rest is no worse, or even easier than HO since there don't seem to be nearly as many bits to add on to locos, freight cars etc. They tend to be good to go from the box. Getting stuff on the rails is no harder than HO and I've found such issues as derailment, stalling etc to be almost nonexistent. I honestly can't say that N is harder on the eyes than HO. If you are doing a country side / desert scene away for built up areas then the landscaping isnt a lot different to HO. My eyesight insn't what it was when I started N scale 13 years ago but I am still getting on OK with it, even the ballasting isnt really much different except being finer ballast to spread about. Whilst I have detailed some N scale locos, these days have most the newer locos have the majority of that detail already installed on them. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Wintle Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 Adding DCC (if you are so inclined**) can be a bit fiddly, but that depends somewhat on your choice of locomotives. Newer Kato hood units (C44-9, SD70M, SD80MAC etc) are trivial, as are the FVM ES44s. Kato P42s* and F40PHs aren't bad. The new Walthers GP60 is ok (use the decoder for the GP20). Atlas locos are a bit more fiddly, as you have to spread the split chassis apart to swap the circuit board. It does help to have a decent re-railer (I like the Kato one). *it becomes a bit more fiddly if you decide to have separately controlable ditch lights as I have done on one of mine. **I would suggest it if you want to run consists Adrian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted January 2, 2013 Author Share Posted January 2, 2013 Ken, Taking Al's (Barry Ten) comments into account, lighting issues are easily solved - I too like plenty of light and nowadays you can seek bulbs/tubes/led's that just about have the same frequency as Daylight. Best, Pete. PS written whilst Ian and Adrian were posting Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DavidLong Posted January 2, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 2, 2013 Pete, that's exactly what I was hoping for - leaving the whole gotta-modify-it-to-match-this-photo mindset behind and going for the big picture instead. I'm just not sure I can see the big picture well enough to enjoy it! What I've been wanting to experiment with is how additional lighting affects my ability to work in N. I've noticed my near vision actually isn't too bad so long as I have enough light, which actually works well with trying to recreate the feel of Wyoming. I think that many of the problems with the size of N are more perceived than real. I have terrible eyesight, having had glasses for short sight since I was 10 and that is fifty one years ago. Most of my modelling over the last thirty five years has been in N then 2FS since 1981. Every time I exhibit or do some demonstrating on the 2mm Scale Association stand at shows I get the "I don't know how you can see to do that". I'm not sure how I dealt with it all those years ago but I did eventually try magnifying lamps (couldn't get on with them) and headband magnifiers (better but a bit sweaty). Then, about ten years ago, I discovered that while sat at my workbench I could work without glasses and had pretty much perfect eyesight. This was a bit of a revelation as the prescription for glasses hadn't changed much for years. The main hazard of this discovery is that I am used to having some cover in front of my eyes in normal life but I have to remember while modelling that it is not the case. I have bought a pair of plain safety glasses which I now use for more hazardous situations. I think that if you want to overcome eyesight difficulties then there are usually ways around it. A friend in the Association who is the same age as me has about three different pairs of glasses of differing magnification for his modelling work. I think it is noteworthy that the builders of the 2FS masterpiece, 'Fencehouses', are all in possession of senior rail cards! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeavyDuty Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 David, I agree - it is a matter of perception. My issue is more coming to terms with the decay of what was the exceptional eyesight I've enjoyed for many years - going from 20/15 to my current mild correction was a jolt, but the loss of my near vision and the resulting change in working distance has affected me much more. I've been an enthusiastic Optivisor user for decades, it's a huge help for me now. As a matter of fact, I need to order one of those headlight gizmos for my visor - that will help things, too. I haven't sold off my US or UK N. (As a matter of fact, I just took delivery of yet another SWT Class 159 last week.) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DavidLong Posted January 2, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 2, 2013 David, I agree - it is a matter of perception. My issue is more coming to terms with the decay of what was the exceptional eyesight I've enjoyed for many years - going from 20/15 to my current mild correction was a jolt, but the loss of my near vision and the resulting change in working distance has affected me much more. I've been an enthusiastic Optivisor user for decades, it's a huge help for me now. As a matter of fact, I need to order one of those headlight gizmos for my visor - that will help things, too. I haven't sold off my US or UK N. (As a matter of fact, I just took delivery of yet another SWT Class 159 last week.) Glad that you have found a solution that works for you, Ken, and that you have been able to stick with N. I just wish that some of those who talk to me at shows would take a more postive outlook. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted January 3, 2013 Author Share Posted January 3, 2013 Stupid question time.. Just received my new ES 44Ac. How the heck do you open the crazy KATO plastic box??? Without breaking it, of course. Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeavyDuty Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 Stupid question time.. Just received my new ES 44Ac. How the heck do you open the crazy KATO plastic box??? Without breaking it, of course. Best, Pete. Ancient Japanese secret. (They're so tight that they create a vacuum. Try slipping something thin into a seam.) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted January 3, 2013 Author Share Posted January 3, 2013 Ken, The seam is at the bottom, right? The bottom is a plate and the lid extends right down to it on all sides? Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted January 3, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3, 2013 Ken, The seam is at the bottom, right? The bottom is a plate and the lid extends right down to it on all sides? Best, Pete. Yes This box hadnt been opened for some time (stock now in a different box) so it was hard to open. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted January 3, 2013 Author Share Posted January 3, 2013 Cheers, Ian. Mine must have been the most stupid question of the year, very embarrassing! Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted January 3, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3, 2013 Its better to ask than to break something! Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted January 4, 2013 Author Share Posted January 4, 2013 It wasn't easy. The "ends" were the problem. They were so tight I had to use an Exacto fine chisel point, insert and then twist. It was very difficult to see the line between the surfaces. This new model is delicious, looks very nice in CSX "Dark Future" (two numbers available). Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Barry Ten Posted January 4, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 4, 2013 I can't ever work out how to get into those plastic Noch boxes in which the little figures come. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted January 4, 2013 Author Share Posted January 4, 2013 Crazy isn't it? I've cut my hands up with blister packs too. Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Wintle Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 This new model is delicious, looks very nice in CSX "Dark Future" (two numbers available). I don't have an ES44 (I bought a couple of the FVM ones before Kato came out with theirs), but I have some of the other modern Kato locos (SD70M, SD80MAC, C44-9) and they are very nice. The pair of big, black SD80MACs look good on the front of 40+ coal gons, as do the SD70s with a bunch of well cars behind them. Adrian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted January 4, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 4, 2013 Crazy isn't it? I've cut my hands up with blister packs too. Best, Pete. i know what you mean. We often travel to the USA with carry on luggage only so dont have any scissors to get into any items we buy in blister packs so they are real hard to open. With these newer Kato locos take care when installing decoders as one end doesnt slot into the chassi as perthe older ones but just relies on downward pressue onto the board. Sometime this creates an imperfect connection to the board. Its easy to get over by either packing the underside of the board with a bit of styreen or a more delicate approach whihc has been mentioned but I havent tried, is to add a bit of solder to the top of the contacts on the decoder Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Wintle Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 With these newer Kato locos take care when installing decoders as one end doesnt slot into the chassi as perthe older ones but just relies on downward pressue onto the board. Sometime this creates an imperfect connection to the board. Its easy to get over by either packing the underside of the board with a bit of styreen or a more delicate approach whihc has been mentioned but I havent tried, is to add a bit of solder to the top of the contacts on the decoder This is a general issue with the newer Digitrax decoders - the circuit board is thinner and more flexible and doesn't always make good contact. My solution is the second one - build up the contact pads with a dab of solder, it only needs a tiny amount. After the experience with my SD70s (they worked fine with the body off but refused to run with the body on) I've taken to adding the solder dabs as a matter of course. Adrian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted January 4, 2013 Author Share Posted January 4, 2013 I don't suppose you have photos? This will be my first DCC layout. Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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