N15class Posted March 14, 2014 Share Posted March 14, 2014 Why so much side play? Front and rear nothing middle about half to three quarters of a millimeter. Also is the lack of free running tight bearings rather than being out of line. I use a 190 thou reamer to give running clearance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted March 14, 2014 Author Share Posted March 14, 2014 Side-play: It is what it is with the bearings in place. I have at present two etched washers per wheel. I'm going to look at more. Free-running: no, when the axle passes through only ONE bearing, it spins freely. When passed through TWO, it goes tight. And that's despite having reamed them, in situ, as a pair. Brake-shoes: they probably aren't too close, but with the amount of movement I'm getting, and finding hard to control, they CAN come in contact with the flanges. More work needed.......... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 14, 2014 Share Posted March 14, 2014 What size reamer are you using? I use 4.8mm for 3/16" axles. Or 4mm for 5/32" axles. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted March 14, 2014 Author Share Posted March 14, 2014 4.8mm Ozzy, as recommended by yourself. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted March 14, 2014 Share Posted March 14, 2014 Hi Jeff, Something is either skew-wiff ( southern saying I think ?) side ways or you have to much up and down movement, can you try one axle at a time or front and back only so you can try and narrow down the problem. In my opinion it sounds like the frames are not square or a hornguide or two might be just out of alignment, that's all it take's to bind up an axle. Shame you were not a bit closer or I would of given you a hand . ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted March 14, 2014 Author Share Posted March 14, 2014 That's what I think, Martyn. But when the hornguides were fitted, I had silver steel rods fitted through each pair, and all were at 90 deg to the frames and parallel to one another. I just can't understand it. I'll have another look tomorrow...unless the fuel pipe clips I've been waiting a week for arrive. Then I can replace the split fuel pipe on my Impreza. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 14, 2014 Share Posted March 14, 2014 ... Shame you were not a bit closer or I would of given you a hand ....or made him an offer he couldn't refuse. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nimbus Posted March 14, 2014 Share Posted March 14, 2014 That's what I think, Martyn. But when the hornguides were fitted, I had silver steel rods fitted through each pair, and all were at 90 deg to the frames and parallel to one another. I just can't understand it. I'll have another look tomorrow...unless the fuel pipe clips I've been waiting a week for arrive. Then I can replace the split fuel pipe on my Impreza. Can your hornblocks change orientation? They may not be perfectly symmetrical. The Nim. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 That's what I think, Martyn. But when the hornguides were fitted, I had silver steel rods fitted through each pair, and all were at 90 deg to the frames and parallel to one another. I just can't understand it. I'll have another look tomorrow...unless the fuel pipe clips I've been waiting a week for arrive. Then I can replace the split fuel pipe on my Impreza. Hello JeffP, this sounds an odd one, lets start with a few questions rather than guessing. 1] are the frames still straight and true, if not re straighten them. 2] have you had the axleboxs out of the horn guides, If you have your going to play the find the matched pair game, hours of fun. 3] if all of the above are OK. Re-ream all of the axleboxs going right through from both sides. It can also help if you do them at an angle with the box's near the top and bottom of there travel. If you end up doing this do it with the CSBs in place Axle side play, all you should need is from the front, 0, 0.5mm, 0.5mm rear 0. That should get you round 6' rad curves. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Hi Jeff, Can you remind me, did you glue or solder the horn guides in place, I would of looked back to check but with 12 pages and counting, life's too short . ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 LOL, glued, they are the slaters insulating types. They are also drilled and bolted in place. Ozzy: Frames are still straight. All axleboxes marked before removal. I'll give that suggestion a try, once the lad is up....my workbench is in the loft and he's on nights. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 I'll give that suggestion a try, once the lad is up....my workbench is in the loft and he's on nights. Jeffp, straight is one thing. But are they still true. That is do they have no twist in them for some jobs you don't need a machine to do it with, as some times the "feel" of the hand works better. OzzyO. PS. or you could start working nights as well. PPS. can you put a photo up of the frames as they are now? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 ....PS. or you could start working nights as well on the model There, that's better... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 There, that's better... look I was been nice to him. Thinking on we haven't seen any of your work (in kit and scrap building). So people in glass houses should not through bricks about???? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 ...Thinking on we haven't seen any of your work (in kit and scrap building). They're in the photo albums, darling. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold farren Posted March 16, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 16, 2014 Yes Mr Horsetan get on with your V2 up grade. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scadaboy Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 No news yet man! Ducky from across the pond............ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 No news yet man! Ducky from across the pond............ Really happy that you posted this comment as it brought the thread to the top of the list and has given me the chance to read it from start to finish. Sometimes if I really get stuck on a bit I put it aside and do something else. Why not build the bogie or the backhead detail? A bit of success will motivate you to get the tender chassis finished. Otherwise I will ask OzzyO if there is room in his team for another black suit............... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scadaboy Posted December 25, 2014 Share Posted December 25, 2014 Cheers, and Merry Christmas to all! I will be posting my build - at some point - of a MOK Collett14xx that I received from Santa! So stay tuned! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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