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Idea: Conversion of Ixion Hudswell Clarke


hartleymartin
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This an interesting thread. We looked at the feasibility of making the MSLR Hudswell Clarke 0-6-0 side tank loco that became LNER J64, which has the same wheelbase and wheel diameter as the Ixion model. Unfortunately, we would have to move the gear train and the motor would emerge into the cab, all of which would have meant a complete re-tooling of the chassis and no economies of scale. Anyway, I have attached a profile of the J64 with a rough outline of the Ixion chassis superimposed to show the problem.

Paint the flywheel black and add crew figurines in the xab and you won't see them. In fact, tgis would be a good after market boy kit. Heck, I'd like a side tabk hudswell clarke!

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Paint the flywheel black and add crew figurines in the xab and you won't see them. In fact, tgis would be a good after market boy kit. Heck, I'd like a side tabk hudswell clarke!

I should get a spelling checker first!

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Only just found this thread! I now have a spare H-C body to play with so I too am thinking of a side tank conversion. The MSC tanks would be a good starting point but I'll keep my options open to the final size and shape of the loco as any plain boiler fitted will have to clear the chassis block. (No saddletank to hide anything in!)

Where would be the best place to go for boiler fittings/smokebox door etc; Agenoria perhaps?

Jon F.

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According to the lner page on the J64, the boilers were 3'8" in diameter, or 25.67mm in 7mm scale. 1" plastic pipe should suffice. It looks like you will be able to reuse the cab, though modifying it to fit with the side tanks.

 

I was typing on a smart phone touch screen keyboard.

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This is a wonderful conversion of the lovely Ixion Hudswell Clarke. It looks like it's been purchased off the shelf, the quality is that good. A hearty handshake to you Sir.

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Guest Isambarduk

"It looks like it's been purchased off the shelf, ..."

 

I'll take that as a compliment :-)

 

",...  the quality is that good"

 

Ah, yes, it was a compliment :-))   Thank you. 

 

How times have changed though - seems to me that it wasn't so long ago that any modification of RTR, certainly in 0 gauge, was an improvement, unless really poorly done.  Now, with the likes of Ixion, it is much more difficult to compete with RTR; to be fair though, I didn't set out to improve my model, only to make it different.

 

David

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My own Hudswell Clarke has been pulled apart for a bit of tinkering.

 

The smokebox was singled out to be repainted. I've given it some tamiya light grey primer followed by a coat of tamiya "rubber black." I'm given to understand that smokeboxes tendes to go a matt dark grey from the heat even if the rest of the locomotive stayed in a nice glossy sheen.

 

The saddle tank and boiler are in undercoat after having the tank rounded off. Mine had two eather pronounced creases which I eventually decided had to go. Turned out to be a very easy matter of correcting this. The primer coat quickly shows if any further dressing up is needed.

 

I'm a bit stumped on how to go about repainting the cab at the moment, although I did get the floor out and gave it a wash of Tamiya XF10 flat brown to make it look more like a timber plabked floor.

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10175028_10152279182806251_915952110_n.j

Tamiya Light Grey Primer goes onto the smokebox, boiler and saddle tank:

 

14888_10152279202331251_702383798_n.jpg

Two coats of primer gave a good coverage. I have also filed and sanded the saddle tank to smooth out the creases into a nice curve.

 

1237534_10152281380386251_2031136649_n.j
Partly reassembled after Tamiya "Rubber Black" went onto the smokebox and three coats of "Racing Green" went onto the saddle tank and boiler. The cab was disassembled and given a coat of the same primer.

 

As it stands, I'm waiting until I've figured out how to repaint the interior of the cab before adding the green to the exterior.

 

I'm not sure if I will repaint the footplate, but I will definitely re-do the red buffer beams and the coupling rods.

 

Yes, the whole lot will get toned down from the gloss with a matt/satin spray clear-coat.

 

In the background you can see an midland all-3rd bogie coach and a few wagons variously from Slaters, Skytrex and Parkside Dundas.

Edited by hartleymartin
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Guest Isambarduk

"I'm waiting until I've figured out how to repaint the interior of the cab ..."

 

Ah, yes; I had to spend some time thinking about that as well.

 

"I will definitely re-do the red buffer beams and the coupling rods."

 

If your model is anything like mine, I would certainly recommend stripping the paint off the rods before repainting (see the end of my post at: www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/69095-idea-conversion-of-ixion-hudswell-clarke/?p=1001446)

 

David

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At the moment my thoughts are to remove all the parts that can be removed (already done) then spray the interior, carefully mask the interior, spray green exterior then another masking to spray the roof black.

 

I'm also looking for some interior cab photos to see what details I might add. The left hand cab extension becoming an auxiliary coal bunker is a thought.

 

Other details will include tool boxes and oil cans on the footplate. I haf thought about changing the front sandboxes to the earlier above the footplate type, but I don't really want to hack into the lovely chassis block.

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Guest Isambarduk

"At the moment my thoughts are to remove all the parts that can be removed (already done) then spray the interior, carefully mask the interior, spray green exterior then another masking to spray the roof black."

 

 

That's what I did - well, I didn't have to spray the roof separately.  However, on that, I would be inclined to mask off the interior and then spray black the roof (also lower inside cab, see below) before masking it off and spraying the green exterior; I would do this on the basis that it is far easier to mask off the roof than it is to mask off all the exterior (and also any minor creep of the green where it wasn't wanted is more easily corrected on the black).

 

On masking off the interior, I cut out the sticky bits of Post-it Notes to cover the major areas, then I do boundaries (eg between upper and lower cab) with Tamiya masking tape and finally I touch in any dodgy or exposed bits with Humbrol Maskol.  In your case, I would then spray black the exposed lower cab insides and the roof before masking them off in the same way and finally spraying your green. But you know me, I often just make things long-winded!

 

David

 

Edited by Isambarduk
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Guest Isambarduk

"Painted the cab exterior today.  It was indeed something of a ship-in-a-bottle exercise"

 

Interior?

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Indeed I painted the exterior. I masked the doors and windows from the inside. I'm going to brush paint the cab interior. I already gave the floor a wash of XF10 Flat Brown. Not sure what colour the lower backsheet should be (the part with the coal bunker opening) and I'm interested to see in some photos that some had a small cupboard mounted on the backsheet between the windows.

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Indeed I painted the exterior. I masked the doors and windows from the inside. I'm going to brush paint the cab interior. I already gave the floor a wash of XF10 Flat Brown. Not sure what colour the lower backsheet should be (the part with the coal bunker opening) and I'm interested to see in some photos that some had a small cupboard mounted on the backsheet between the windows.

Most people would probably paint the lower back-sheet in the cab black. On the ledge above the cab backsheet there's a range of options. David Smith's masterful conversion described on RMWeb used the space for some shorter, hand-made fire-irons and tools and  some brackets to hold them in place. Tool-boxes would also be appropriate. Frankly, if you are modelling a free-lance industrial loco, you can get away with just about anything as there will be a prototype for most situations.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

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10157107_10152289529271251_4361630746078

 

The state of affairs at the moment. Well, until I decided that I didn't do an adequate surface preparation on the saddle tank and took some 1000 grade sand paper to it and gave it a re-spray. I'm also going to go for Satin black on the roof, as the "rubber black" doesn't quite achieve what I want there.

The brass buffers have been through some blackening solution, but I'm not yet 100% happy with them.

Next, I will tackle the cab interior.

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Stage 1 of cab interior paint job complete. I ised a buff-coloured spray paint (again from Tamiya) which doesn't really match the supplied cab front, but really isn't noticable when you look into the cab. It will be further obscured by crew figurines, so a good colour match isn't truly essential.

 

It proved to be actually quite easy, figuring out how to mask the cab. Just waiting for the paint to cure before doing the lower half of the cab interior in satin black.

 

Ran out of green when respraying the saddle tank but got one coat of colour on, so will need another can to finish the job. One can would have done the whole job for the locomotive if I had properly prepared the surface before hand (live and learn).

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Pondering over the mechanism at the moment. Will strip down and respray the coupling rods. I will also have to spray the wheels at some stage. Wissington qas restored with green frames, but I think black are better.

 

Will also have to look at the couplings. The supplied ones work just fine, but I would like either screw link couplingsor the D shackle type with the short middle link.

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Pondering over the mechanism at the moment. Will strip down and respray the coupling rods. I will also have to spray the wheels at some stage. Wissington qas restored with green frames, but I think black are better.

 

Will also have to look at the couplings. The supplied ones work just fine, but I would like either screw link couplingsor the D shackle type with the short middle link.

The couplings are simple to remove, but you may find it easier to retain the existing hook and just replace the links. 

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Guest Isambarduk

"The couplings are simple to remove ..."

 

Indeed, just slip the last coil of the spring out from the hole in the back of the drawhook.  It is so simple, I would recommend doing this even if you retain the drawhooks, as I did when I replaced the links; it is so much easier working with the drawhooks whilst they are away from the model.

 

David

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According to the lner page on the J64, the boilers were 3'8" in diameter, or 25.67mm in 7mm scale. 1" plastic pipe should suffice. It looks like you will be able to reuse the cab, though modifying it to fit with the side tanks.I was typing on a smart phone touch screen keyboard.

Does anyone know where to get suitable 1" plastic pipe that can be glued to styrene ?

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