HornbyA3Fan Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Now if there are similar topics to this can any of the forum moderators move my topic to the right area for this question to be answered. Right I bought a Triang L1 from ebay last month to just increase my locomotive collection, and to basically own a vintage locomotive. Now I was wondering if at all I could fit a Hornby M7 chassis or a Hornby 2P chassis under the body of the L1 class to bring it up to date and to stop any sparks from occurring when running around my track. I am not a complete expert of replacing the chassis of Model railway locomotives with another, but trying to get the hang of it so that it wouldn't be too difficult the next time I try and to replace a chassis of any locomotive in 00 gauge. So I was wondering if a modern Hornby locomotive chassis of the 4-4-0 wheel configuration can replace the Triang L1 4-4-0 chassis with ease. And If so what are the wheel diameters for the other two locomotives as well as the L1 chassis wheel diameter to exactly replace with. So if anyone on here knows exactly of the wheel diameter of these three locomotives, I would much grateful of, as well as if it is difficult for a novice railway modeller to do this replacement. One last thing, is the Hornby 2P chassis loco drive or tender drive Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 L1 bogie 3' 7" Driving wheel 6' 8" T9 bogie 3' 7" Driving wheel 6' 7" M7 bogie 3' 7" Driving wheels 5' 7" 2P bogie 3' 6.5" Driving wheels 6'9" Any help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium phil-b259 Posted March 7, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 7, 2013 One last thing, is the Hornby 2P chassis loco drive or tender drive Up untill 2012, the 2P was tender driven. Current releases have a new loco driven chassis but kept the old body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HornbyA3Fan Posted March 7, 2013 Author Share Posted March 7, 2013 L1 bogie 3' 7" Driving wheel 6' 8" T9 bogie 3' 7" Driving wheel 6' 7" M7 bogie 3' 7" Driving wheels 5' 7" 2P bogie 3' 6.5" Driving wheels 6'9" Any help? L1 bogie 3' 7" Driving wheel 6' 8" T9 bogie 3' 7" Driving wheel 6' 7" M7 bogie 3' 7" Driving wheels 5' 7" 2P bogie 3' 6.5" Driving wheels 6'9" Any help? So the T9 chassis will fit the L1 shell Thanks for help and I will try and find a spare T9 chassis on the internet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edcayton Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Hold on, it's not that simple. You also need to know the wheelbase of the two chassis, and it's very unlikely that it will be straightforward to fit the later chassis to the older body. i would suggest overhauling the old mechanism first as in my experience these old Tri-ang units go on for ever. If it is sparking, then where from? It probably needs cleaning and adjusting. Failing that, you may find it easier to remove the motorfrom the loco and convert to tender drive. You can get s/h tender drives cheap and I would think that putting your old tender body on a driven chassis would not be too hard. Good luck Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilwell Park Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 L1 bogie 3' 7" Driving wheel 6' 8" T9 bogie 3' 7" Driving wheel 6' 7" M7 bogie 3' 7" Driving wheels 5' 7" 2P bogie 3' 6.5" Driving wheels 6'9" Any help? L1 bogie 3' 7" Driving wheel 6' 8" T9 bogie 3' 7" Driving wheel 6' 7" M7 bogie 3' 7" Driving wheels 5' 7" 2P bogie 3' 6.5" Driving wheels 6'9" Any help? So the T9 chassis will fit the L1 shell Thanks for help and I will try and find a spare T9 chassis on the internet The T9 is the best bet as the wheelbase is the same, 10' 0". The 2P wheelbase is 9' 6", and the M7 even shorter. Roger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Possibly Edward's chassis would fit, as that is what happened to the L1 moulding (passing through LMS 2P on the way). 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HornbyA3Fan Posted March 7, 2013 Author Share Posted March 7, 2013 Hold on, it's not that simple. You also need to know the wheelbase of the two chassis, and it's very unlikely that it will be straightforward to fit the later chassis to the older body. i would suggest overhauling the old mechanism first as in my experience these old Tri-ang units go on for ever. If it is sparking, then where from? It probably needs cleaning and adjusting. Failing that, you may find it easier to remove the motorfrom the loco and convert to tender drive. You can get s/h tender drives cheap and I would think that putting your old tender body on a driven chassis would not be too hard. Good luck Ed Hi Ed, the sparking is from the driving wheels and at times it makes a big spark or two when running. Now as soon as whenever I can get a newer loco drive chassis for the Triang L1, I might repaint the locomotive in a different BR colour after replacing the chassis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim49 Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Are the sparks coming from the tread part of the driving wheels, in which case you need to clean the tread face, or from behind the wheels which would indicate that the back of the wheel rim and the face of the pick-up need cleaning. If you can clean these areas thoroughly you will get an improvement in the path of electricity to the motor and better running. Il Grifone had me wondering who Edward was until it dawned on me he is one of Thomas' friends. I hadn't thought about that range but don't know if a complete chassis is available as a spare but it is worth a try. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZ Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 Coachman used a T9 chassis under a 2P and if the wheelbase is more suited to an L1, this is probably the best route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 Are the sparks coming from the tread part of the driving wheels, in which case you need to clean the tread face, or from behind the wheels which would indicate that the back of the wheel rim and the face of the pick-up need cleaning. If you can clean these areas thoroughly you will get an improvement in the path of electricity to the motor and better running. Il Grifone had me wondering who Edward was until it dawned on me he is one of Thomas' friends. I hadn't thought about that range but don't know if a complete chassis is available as a spare but it is worth a try. Jim This is true enough but Tri-ang's deep flanges might be the problem on today's finer track. Sorry, I assumed everyone knew who Edward is. Some of my first books were Thomas & Co. (5/- a shot back then!) I would have preferred the moulding stayed as an L1 personally, as it was one of Tri-ang's better efforts (tender possibly excepted though more appropriate here, than behind the 3F it was originally designed for. At least, for the Southern Railway version, they got rid of all those rivets. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 Hi, I think the T9 under L1 has been done here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/605/entry-4345-ian-ms-blog-sr-and-sdjr/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruciethefish Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 A better bet might be the 'railroad' compound chassis, which is now loco-drive & is the right wheel size & wheelbase, & just needs the cylinders & con-rods taking off, though you'll still need to experiment a little for the mounting points. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 Now if there are similar topics to this can any of the forum moderators move my topic to the right area for this question to be answered. Right I bought a Triang L1 from ebay last month to just increase my locomotive collection, and to basically own a vintage locomotive. Now I was wondering if at all I could fit a Hornby M7 chassis or a Hornby 2P chassis under the body of the L1 class to bring it up to date and to stop any sparks from occurring when running around my track. I am not a complete expert of replacing the chassis of Model railway locomotives with another, but trying to get the hang of it so that it wouldn't be too difficult the next time I try and to replace a chassis of any locomotive in 00 gauge. So I was wondering if a modern Hornby locomotive chassis of the 4-4-0 wheel configuration can replace the Triang L1 4-4-0 chassis with ease. And If so what are the wheel diameters for the other two locomotives as well as the L1 chassis wheel diameter to exactly replace with. So if anyone on here knows exactly of the wheel diameter of these three locomotives, I would much grateful of, as well as if it is difficult for a novice railway modeller to do this replacement. One last thing, is the Hornby 2P chassis loco drive or tender drive Thanks Up untill 2012, the 2P was tender driven. Current releases have a new loco driven chassis but kept the old body. Hi. To clarify. R.350 1960 B.R. Green L1. Chassis with screw down chimney. Made to fit Tri-ang Series 3Track (Course). 1961-196? (Late 1960s?) B.R Green.L1 Chassis with screw in front footplate and early ones provision for a Seuthe Smoke Unit. Not Synchrosmoke. Made to fit Tri-ang Series 3Track (Super 4 from 1962) (Course). 1972 Only.Southern Railway Green.L1 Chassis with screw in front footplate. Made to fit Hornby System 6 Track (Basically Code 100). 1974 LMS Black "2p" (Modified L1 Body, Cab changed.) Chassis with screw in front footplate. Made to fit Hornby System 6 Track (Basically Code 100). So it became Edward..... Later Hornby 2p Locos were the Airfix/Mainline/Dapol locos, and nothing to do with the old L1. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sem34090 Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 I thought the Thomas TTE range 'Edward' was an LNER D49 'Hunt' with its cylinders nicked, with a face and taller chimney added. If so, it would share its chassis with the D49, Compound, County (4-4-0) and Schools (Railroad version). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 (edited) It the existing L1 Chassis works but sparks then it could be the driving wheel bushes worn letting the insulated wheels rub the chassis. It could be dirty wheels and could well be made worse by a tired magnet in the X04 motor causing excessive current consumption. But first thing to check is the leading bogie as some have non insulated wheels one side and they can be fitted the wrong way round, and wit a 40 year old model the wheels may have been changed for non insulated ones even of it started with all plastic. As an upgrade replacing the wheels with Markits / Romford wheels is quick and easy these days. as Markits do 3/16" axles which are direct replacement for the Triang axles, use a knurled one for the worm wheel and plain for the other axle, they will need washers to control side play, I put them each side of the worm wheel. Triang crank pins screw straight into the modern Romford Markits wheels, though there is some 40 year old old stock out there which needs to be drilled. You will also need small washers around 10BA between the crankpin and the wheel to stop the coupling rod shorting on the driving wheel tyre but with this done it will run happily on code 75. I think they are 26mm and I don't recommend using anthing but 3/16" axles with wheels over 22mm as big wheels work loose on the 1/8" ones and bushing the worm wheel 1/8" with brass bushes in the 1980s is something which still gives me nightmares (Under 22mm I use 1/8" axles with top hat bushes on the non powered axles [Edited due to not reading the OP correctly] Edited January 12, 2018 by DavidCBroad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris45lsw Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 The Triang L1 was not a great model, it shared coupling rods with the 0-4-0T Nellie and no doubt the dimensions were adjusted to suit. I am fairly sure the L1 morphed into the Loco Drive 2P and eventually died when replaced with the ex Dapol tender drive 2P. The Edwards I have seen had been based on the D49 Hunt/Shire without the outside cylinders a bit like "The Morpeth" The Triang M7 had the same coupling Rods and wheels as the L1 but a different chassis casting which included the Vacuum cylinders under the front buffer beam and brackets for the illuminated firebox which mean it won't fit the L1. It will be a lot of work to fit a modern chassis, but I think GEM made a replacement chassis as they used them under their body kits. This takes Romford / Markits wheels etc and would be fully compatible with the L1 body and modern track work so that might be the best solution. I'd have thought the Hornby T9 chassis would be the best bet? L1 wheelbase is 6ft 3in + 11ft 2in + 10ft, driving wheels 6ft 8in. T9 wheelbase is 6ft 6in + 10ft 0in + 10ft, driving wheels 6ft 7in. So, in theory, just move the T9 bogie forward a little and it will be very close. Chris KT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pandora Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 (edited) Triang were somewhat tight-fisted when it came to developing their range of chassis blocks, the Britannia, Princess and Winston Churchill shared the same block. R59 2-6-2T 82004 had the very undersized Jinty wheels and was considerably improved by replacing the wheels from Romford or others. Albert Hall, the B12, and Flying Scotsman, I think they had the same basic motor/driving wheel block as a chassis, adapted to suit the body using extension strips made of pressed-steel attached by bolts. I never owned a Triang M7 but I have a hunch the M7 was based on the L1 chassis with extension strips bolted to the block. Edited January 12, 2018 by Pandora Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigherb Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 Or you could fit Romford/Markits wheels to the LI chassis. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dunsignalling Posted January 12, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 12, 2018 I'd have thought the Hornby T9 chassis would be the best bet? L1 wheelbase is 6ft 3in + 11ft 2in + 10ft, driving wheels 6ft 8in. T9 wheelbase is 6ft 6in + 10ft 0in + 10ft, driving wheels 6ft 7in. So, in theory, just move the T9 bogie forward a little and it will be very close. Chris KT Always assuming the Tri-ang L1 is accurate in the first place. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 I've never measured the leading wheelbase, but the coupled wheelbase of the Tri-ang L1 is a scale 10' (it was noticeably too long under the 2P). There is no reason for any deviation in the other dimensions as it was an all new model, but that never stopped Margate. I'll have to measure mine! The T9 class were built with a very short crank throw (9"), so their wheels are not really correct for an L1. AFAIK the L1s were all painted mixed traffic lined black under BR. Passenger green was presumably chosen by Tri-ang to make it more attractive to children? (cf the 3MT 2-6-2T - most of these were black too). The chassis is an 0-4-0 block with bolt on strips for the bogie and body fixings. I have inverted the front strip on mine to lower the body and reduce the excessive height that Tri-ang (and Hornby) were so fond of. Some filing of the location slots at the rear is also required to level it up. AFAIK the block was also used on the M7, but I'd have to check on that one. The above picture reminds me that detailling one is on the 'to do' list.... There is provision for cab handrails on the moulding, but I don't think Tri-ang actually fitted any. (Possibly the first issue?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 Or you could fit Romford/Markits wheels to the LI chassis. This is the best reply, You can buy the wheels from Markits and they do the correct axles for Triang chassis (you need one normal and one knarled for the gear wheel. These are self quartering and other than fitting the gear wheel an easy conversion. Would look even better with new coupling rods, but this is much harder if the correct size is not available off the shelf, but then you may decide to fit new hand rails etc (where do you stop) A cheaper but more difficult jo would be to bush the axle holes to fit 1/8th axles and use Alan Gibson wheels (with new coupling rods) eBay could be a good place to buy older Romford wheels which could reduce costs as 26mm one come up quite often 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RexAshton Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 Kit 4101 from here might be an option as it was originally designed as an L1 replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobach47 Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 the sparking might be the traction magnets if they are fitted shorting on the driving wheels or a dirty commutator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 Kit 4101 from here might be an option as it was originally designed as an L1 replacement. If that is so then its a great option, I have built the GEM 2-4-2t chassis and it was a joy, would take the loco to another level but would be a costly option Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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